The long black wool belted coat – and its white collar jutting not so subtly out from under it – were two pieces from a unique three-way collaboration between house designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jun Takahashi of Japanese label Undercover (specializing in streetwear and experimental tailoring) and a group called the Movement for the Emancipation of Poetry, whose members paste lyrical lines on to the walls and monuments of Italian cities. For this look, I am told, Melania delved into her archives (rather than racing to a designer's door), for the two pieces from Valentino's Fall 2019 collection. In that show,...