SIGHTSEEING in the capital of the world's most populous nation can be a chore. At Mao Zedong's mausoleum in Tiananmen Square, surly guards quickstep thousands of rubbernecking visitors past the Chinese Communist Party chairman's embalmed corpse every day. The Forbidden City, once the seat of emperors, is now open house for insufferable, flag-following tour groups. The Summer Palace's lake is clogged with day-trippers on tacky, fibreglass pedal boats shaped like cartoon ducks. Beijing's sites are spread across the city, temperatures can top 40C, and without fluency in Mandarin, public transport is as indecipherable as an acupuncturist's handwriting. Determined to stand...