As an unexpected shower cascades outside, Dennis Hopper walks into the hotel dining-room as if the sun has just burst through the clouds. Wearing jeans, a tie and a powder-blue jacket, he has a huge cigar wedged in his mouth - one of the few vices left to a man who, at his worst, consumed half a gallon of rum, 28 beers and three grams of cocaine a day. Looking more like a movie mogul than the counterculture icon of Easy Rider, he is in celebratory mood. "This is my 50th year in the film business," he announces, his grey...