There's high anxiety in Wine Country as the harvest slowly gets under way. The grape crop is late, yields are down, birds are a terrible problem and there are looming fears there won't be enough laborers to pick the crop. "The 900-pound gorilla in the room is labor," said Fred Buonanno of Brutocao Vineyards & Cellars in Hopland and chairman of the Mendocino Winegrape and Wine Commission. "In the weeks ahead we will be tested." Buonanno was among growers and vintners from Mendocino, Sonoma, Lake and Marin counties gathered Tuesday in Santa Rosa to provide a "state of the harvest"...