On a cold winter morning just before sunrise, snow is falling gently onto the sidewalk outside of Kossar's (367 Grand Street, 212-473-4810). Inside, the talk is all about bialys. "I can't tell you how much I missed this," says one man, taking a bite before heading back outside. "Butter. Yes please, lots of butter," a woman says as she places her order. "Oh, wow, I didn't realize there were so many kinds," says another man. Following a five month renovation, the revered Jewish bakery, in a neighborhood that has grown exponentially over the past 80 years, recently reopened with a...