SUPERCHEF Mario Batali has taken to wearing a "Dem tag" around his neck to express his disdain for President Bush. The culinary king says that every waiter and maitre d' at his crown jewel, Babbo, also wears the tags, which are inscribed with various anti-Bush slogans. "My favorite one says, 'President Cheney?'" Batali told us. "Everyone's wearing them at Babbo. We don't have one fence-sitter." The left-leaning chef says he has a "big box" of the necklaces - made by his friend, designer Corrine Calesso - that he plans to pass out at his eateries Otto and Lupa. "I'm voting...