Breadmakers feel pain from Atkins diet

Pennlive.com ^ | Nov 8 2003 | DAVID SHARP, AP

[carlo3b]

 

Breadmakers feel pain from Atkins diet

By DAVID SHARP
The Associated Press
11/8/2003, 1:18 p.m. ET

PORTLAND, Maine (AP) — Some bakers around the country are seeing a similar drop in business: With millions of people trying the diet created by the late low-carb guru Dr. Robert Atkins, overall bread sales are flat or down slightly, while bread-bashing seems to be at an all-time high.

A sign in Stephen Lanzalotta's bakery reads, "Senza il pane tutto diventa orfano." In Italian, that means, "Without bread everyone's an orphan."

But fewer customers are buying his European-style breads and pastries these days — thanks to the Atkins diet, many regulars are cutting back on carbohydrates. Lanzalotta says the low-carb diet has contributed to an estimated 40 percent drop in business at his shop, Sophia's.

Some customers have even stopped by to apologize.

"They'll say, 'I'm sorry. I haven't been in for six months because I'm on the Atkins diet,'" said Lanzalotta, whose muscular arms are a testament to long hours spent kneading dough.

The National Bread Leadership Council, which says 40 percent of Americans are eating less bread than a year ago, has scheduled what it calls a summit this month in Rhode Island focusing in part on low-carb diets and how to educate the public that breaking bread is still part of a healthy lifestyle.

"It's too bad that we just can't eat all foods in moderation. But no, we have to do something dramatic all the time," said Judi Adams, president of the Wheat Foods Council and a registered dietician, referring to the Atkins diet. "We have to look for this magic bullet."

Estimates of the number of Americans on low-carb diets vary widely, from 5 million to 50 million. Their boycott of bread has exacerbated a sluggish sales trend that was in place before low-carb diets became popular, said John McMillin, a food industry analyst with Prudential Equity Group Inc. in New York.

When Lanzalotta opened his bakery, bread accounted for 75 percent of sales. Now it accounts for just 15 percent. He boosted his dessert offerings and began offering sandwiches to try to make up the difference. He also adapted by selling artwork, including his own paintings.

At Standard Baking, co-owner Alison Pray said sales are nearly flat after previously growing 10 percent to 15 percent a year.

Pray sees plenty of couples stopping by, but often only one partner is eating. The other is cutting carbs.

She's a bit incredulous when customers ask if she produces anything consistent with the Atkins diet. "This one person asked me, 'Can you make a low-carbohydrate bread?' I said, 'I wouldn't know how to do it,'" she said.

Others are adapting. At Anthony's Italian Kitchen, owner Tony Barassa said his customers are ordering Syrian wraps without the wrap and panini sandwiches without the panini. They're also ordering meatballs without the spaghetti.

On Atkins, people can eat cheese, eggs and meat as long as they strictly limit carbohydrates and avoid refined carbs like white flour. White bread, pasta, potatoes and other carbo-loaded foods are blacklisted. The diet was once scorned by the medical establishment, but recent studies have shown that people lose weight without compromising their health.

The Wheat Food Council's Adams, who is based in Colorado, believes low-carb diets are just another fad. And she wonders if they're really helping.

She noted that the nation's obesity rate has continued to grow as flour consumption has declined. Wheat flour consumption has dropped by about 10 pounds a year per person since 1997, she said, calling Americans' tendency to eat too much of everything the real problem.

"We eat 300 more calories a day than we did in 1985," Adams said. "We supersize everything. We eat constantly."

Big Sky Baking Co. in Portland appears to have avoided the worst of the low-carb fallout because its whole wheat bread is the kind recommended for carb-cutters who can't resist a slice every now and again.

Owner Martha Elkus recognizes that times are changing. "The food pyramid has been turned upside down," she said.

Bread bakers aren't the only ones hurting. The pasta industry, the tortilla industry, bagel makers and even brewers of beer have taken their lumps for having too many carbohydrates.

The Tortilla Industry Association held a seminar last spring titled, "An Industry in Crisis: The High-protein, Low-carb Diet and Its Effects on the Tortilla Industry." The National Pasta Association has a "Diet Matters" section on its Web page that focuses on low-carb diets.

Joshua Sosland, executive editor of Milling and Baking News in St. Louis, said it's difficult for consumers to find good information amidst all of the hype that served to overshadow the science behind the diets. Often overlooked is the fact that bread and grains remain an important part of the federal government's diet guidelines.

"Here we have about the most healthy thing in the diet," Sosland said, "and it's being treated like it's poison."

Bakers are changing their products even as they seek to get out the message that bread remains part of a healthy lifestyle.

Flowers Foods' low-carb bread, "Nature's Own Wheat 'n Fiber," has proven to be the company's most successful new product launch to date, said Mary Krier, spokeswoman in Thomasville, Ga.

George Weston Bakeries Inc. has launched "Carb Counting" bread under its Arnold label that carries the Atkins seal. Maine-based Lepage Bakeries has introduced Country Kitchen "Lower Carb" wheat bread.

Panera Bread, a fast-growing chain that offers soups, salads and sandwiches in addition to bread, is also making changes to meet the evolving tastes of its customers. The company is testing three whole-grain breads with fewer grams of carbohydrates per slice.

"Our view of it is not to resist (the low-carb trend) but to recognize it as a real niche," CEO Ron Shaich said.

[carlo3b]

I really feel sorry for all of the small businesses that are getting caught in the center of these changes. Everyone continues to think of this as a fad. Empirical evidence aside, it is a seismic shift in 3 generations of accepted thought, bolstered by a medical community that has too much invested in their failed theories.. sad.

They could and really should change their ways, there are ways to bake LowCarb breads, and I know hundreds of dieters that would jump at the chance to buy affordable breads again..
 

[sd-joe]

>>>"This one person asked me, 'Can you make a low-carbohydrate bread?' I said, 'I wouldn't know how to do it,'" she said. <<<

Thats strange, the Atkins company produces a mix for low carb bread. So it can be done.

[Hugin]

She's a bit incredulous when customers ask if she produces anything consistent with the Atkins diet. "This one person asked me, 'Can you make a low-carbohydrate bread?' I said, 'I wouldn't know how to do it,'" she said.

Learn.

[Betteboop]

I really miss bread on Atkins--a nice Italian bread with a real crisp crust, or a fresh bagel, or a real dark German pumpernickel bread....yummmmyyyyy. My mouth is watering.
Maybe someone smart will figure out how to do it....well!!!

[AnAmericanMother]

Have you ever TRIED that junk?

I wouldn't feed Atkins bread to my worst enemy. It tastes like cardboard coated with chemicals. Taste, texture, consistency, everything's WRONG.

I just eat a slice of whole grain bread occasionally.

[Miss Marple]

A local bakery in Indiana has produced low-carb breads that actually taste good. They also have low carb hot-dog buns, hamburger buns, and CINNAMON RAISIN BREAD, my preference for Sunday morning toast. It is pricey, but well worth it.

I have also found low-carb taco shells on the net, which means we can have tacos with about 2 grams per taco.

There are ways to do this, if bakeries will do the research.

[GrandMoM]

....yes, I must agree, I miss bread more than sweets or potatoes. But, I found a 4.5 carb Zucchini Nut Bread on their web site that helps me.

[Jemian]

"It's too bad that we just can't eat all foods in moderation. But no, we have to do something dramatic all the time," said Judi Adams, president of the Wheat Foods Council and a registered dietician, referring to the Atkins diet. "We have to look for this magic bullet."

We weren't eating in moderation and we were eating some foods disproportionately to others. Atkins isn't a "magic bullet," but actually a plan that works. In July, I was wearing size 16; I am now wearing a size 10. When I reach my goal, I'll then go on the maintenance phase. I am looking forward to adding back, in moderation, some pastas and breads, but not yet. Atkins isn't a short-term plan. It is a way of life.

[afraidfortherepublic]

The pain I felt from my month on the Atkins diet was NOT in my bread!

[GrandMoM]

....where on the internet did you find the tacos??????

[carlo3b]

 
The problem can easily be solved if the bakers would cater to the change instead of fighting the trend, or wringing their hands.. The same can be said for the dieters. Atkins devotees and similar methods of Low Carb diets can and do bake LowCarb stuff, but it isn't easy unless you have a pantry kitchen, and utencles, and you have the proper ingredients...I have the recipes..  :)

Real LowCarb Bread

• 1/4 cup flax seed meal
• 2 tbs. pecan, walnut or almond flour
• 1/2 cup soy protein Isolate
• 2 lg. eggs
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 cup whipping or heavy cream
• 1/4 cup seltzer water

Preheat oven to 350 F.
1) Spread plenty of butter in a standard loaf pan.
2) Blend all ingredients for 1-2 minutes using a food processor or electric mixer.
3) Empty into pan and bake 25-30 minutes until middle of loaf bounces back to the touch. See, easy as pie?

Per Serving  APPROX.  65 Calories; 6g Fat; 2g Protein; 2g Carbohydrate;

[carlo3b]

 
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[Trust but Verify]

Are you referring to Natural Ovens in Valparaiso?

[carlo3b]

There are many ingredients in this recipe that are not normally found in typical kitchens. However, I recommend that you consider stocking a few of these specialty additives and items to aid in baking and cooking for Low Carb results. The trick in keeping your eating habits in check is variety and it takes getting used to making new and exciting menu items.. This is a wonderful start but you will have to go shopping!

  LowCarb Red Velveteen Cake 

• 1 cup oat flour
• 1/2 cup high gluten flour
• 1 cup almond flour
• 1/3 cup Dutch processed cocoa
• 1 Tablespoon baking powder
• 1 cup Splenda
• 1/2 cup Diabetisweet
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 8 large egg whites (at room temperature)
• 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 1/4 cup cold water
• 1 Tablespoon white vinegar
• 1/2 cup soured cream,* or vanilla yogurt
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1/3 cup oil
• 2 1/2 Tablespoons red food color
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon liquid sweetener

Grease and flour (use gluten flour or oat flour) two 8" or 9" round cake pans. Preheat oven to 325°F.

In large mixing bowl, sift together oat flour, gluten flour, almond flour, granulated Splenda, Diabetisweet, baking powder, cocoa, and salt. Set aside.

In another large bowl, whip egg whites until soft peaks form. Pause and sprinkle cream of tartar over egg whites, then continue beating until stiff peaks form.

 In a small bowl, mix cold water with egg yolks and whisk well. Add oil, vanilla extract, liquid sweetener, and soured cream.
 Then add red food color and stir well. Mix into egg yolk mixture and incorporate fully.

Add egg yolk mixture to flour mixture and beat till smooth.

Add 1/2 of the whipped egg whites to the batter mixture and beat again until well blended (but no more than a minute.)

Then carefully add batter to remainder of whipped egg whites and mix gently using a rubber/plastic spatula, being careful not to break down whites, until batter is fully incorporated.

Pour into cake pans evenly and bake at 325°F for 20-30 minutes turning half-way through. Keep an eye on them and don't over bake. Baking time can vary a bit depending on oven, elevation, etc. Cake is done when lightly golden brown on top and puffed and cracked at edges. Remove from oven and cool for 10 minutes before removing from pan to cool on cake racks. When fully cool, assemble and frost with your favorite low-carb frosting or use the following:
* Mix cream with vinegar in a small cup to get a mock-sour effect.
White Frosting
 

4 oz. package of cream cheese - at room temperature
1/2 cup unsalted butter (1 stick), softened
1/2 teaspoon white vanilla (to keep frosting pure white)
  or regular vanilla for a "cream" color
1/2 cup Splenda
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream Whip all ingredients together until smooth. Frost cake as usual.

Approx.  carbs entire cake: 110.  Cut into 20 pieces for 5.5 grams per slice or 16 pieces for 6.8 grams per slice.

[Miss Marple]

La Tiara Low Carb Taco Shells

[abbi_normal_2]

Someone else has probably told you by now, but you can get low card tortillas (3 net carbs each), in 3/4 different flavors, from latortillafactory.com

[demkicker]

Bread bakers aren't the only ones hurting. The pasta industry, the tortilla industry, bagel makers and even brewers of beer have taken their lumps for having too many carbohydrates

I'm sitting here sipping on a Michelob Ultra, listening to a football game and surfing FR. If the food and beverage industry would quit their wrist wringing and get creative making low carb food & drinks, they'll get rich beyond their dreams. Tick tock.....

[Miss Marple]

No...haven't heard of them. I am down in Indianapolis, and the bakery is called Bread of Life. They are carried in Marsh grocery stores in the Indianapolis area.

Unfortunately, the label has no address, and they don't have a web site.

[Marie Antoinette]

Exactly! They must adapt, or die. I've made LC bread type products here at home. The woman who "wouldn't know HOW to make" a low carb bread would do well to LEARN. The successful entrepreneur will do just that, and make big $$ during this time.

Moi, I will stick to my few loaves of home-baked whole grain breads, my kids love my honey wheat bread. Much more nutritious than any of that stuff at the grocery.