Last Thursday, I walked into a different universe. A fountain gently poured streaming water over its marble edges at the center of a pristine restaurant. A chandelier twinkled above, shimmering gold light on the gleaming white tiled floors. Four miniature palm trees guarded the fountain like rooks on a chessboard. The opulent Beaux-Arts architecture of this joint screamed a different level of wealth than I was accustomed to. And I was just there to eat a burger. The Palm Court at RH, at 590 20th St. in San Francisco’s Dogpatch neighborhood, is a luxurious restaurant that is strangely inside of...