1. The clang of metal poles and the sounds of hammering are practically constant as Jerusalem's apartment dwellers hurry to erect their sukkot and squeeze them into small balconies, odd-shaped gardens and otherwise derelict rooftops. 2. The tourists have landed! Overwhelmingly religious, English and French speaking, they jam the city's take-out places and restaurants, and may be seen in packs wandering up and down Emek Refaim Street and through the glitzy Mamilla Mall talking to their friends at top volume on their cell phones. 3. Almost every non-profit group worth their salt has scheduled a fund-raising and/or familiarization event for...