South of Baghdad, a Brutal Sunni Insurgency Holds Sway BAGHDAD, Nov. 22 -- For Hassan Abu Mohammed, the trip from Baghdad to the sacred Shiite Muslim city of Karbala was ritual, started by his grandfather and adopted by his father. Each week during the holy month of Ramadan, he loaded a car with enough chicken, rice, lentil soup and kibbe, a dish of ground lamb and bulgur wheat, to feed at least 150 people. The tradition brought blessings, he said. Ramadan has ended, and these days, he said he would need more than faith to set out on a...