PHOENIX -- As the airplane - having left wind wakes high over Kansas, Oklahoma and New Mexico -- slides into Arizona's baked air, I'm thinking about America, which soon will celebrate its 227th birthday, I haven't yet seen all of our impossibly huge, pasted-together country, but I haven't missed much of it. Just this year I've been in Illinois, Michigan, Maryland, the District of Columbia, Virginia, New York, Pennsylvania, Colorado, North Carolina and now Arizona, to say nothing of Missouri and Kansas. America takes my breath away. It is deserts -- huge reaches of hot sterility in which only the...