Quelle horreur! At a time of "freedom fries" aboard Air Force One, when senior Bush administration aides are seeking ways to punish France for what they consider its bad behavior on Iraq, French-bashers have overlooked an actual Frenchman embedded deep in the White House. He is Roland Mesnier, the French-born, French-trained White House pastry chef, one of the best in the nation. Although Mr. Mesnier has been a United States citizen for 24 years and the White House pastry chef since 1980, he remains utterly French in outlook and manner. He has, after all, captivated nearly a quarter-century of first...