ILLEFRANCHE-SUR-SAÔNE, France, Jan. 17 — Lionel Favrot steered his borrowed BMW down a narrow road, past steep hillsides stippled with gnarled grapevines like the sides of a clove-studded ham. The fog-filled valley below, where a church bell tolled and wood smoke laced the cool evening air, was enemy territory. "They want to kill us," he said. Mr. Favrot, 32, is editor of Lyon Mag, a small magazine from nearby Lyon that has started a war of words here by printing a sacrilege: that Beaujolais nouveau, the fruity young wine that has won this quiet corner of France fame from Topeka...