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How 17th Century Fraud Gave Rise To Bright Orange Cheese
npr ^ | November 7, 2012 | Allison Aubrey

Posted on 11/09/2013 4:31:29 AM PST by NYer


Shelburne Farms' clothbound cheddar has a bright yellow color because it's made from the milk of cows that graze on grasses high in beta-carotene.

The news from Kraft last week that the company is ditching two artificial dyes in some versions of its macaroni and cheese products left me with a question.

Why did we start coloring cheeses orange to begin with? Turns out there's a curious history here.

In theory, cheese should be whitish — similar to the color of milk, right?

Well, not really. Centuries ago in England, lots of cheeses had a natural yellowish-orange pigment. The cheese came from the milk of certain breeds of cows, such as Jersey and Guernsey. Their milk tends to be richer in color from beta-carotene in the grass they eat.

So, when the orange pigment transferred to the cow's milk, and then to the cheese, it was considered a mark of quality.
"Cows on the grassy hillsides of Shelburne Farms in Vermont."

But here's where the story gets interesting.

Cheese expert Paul Kindstedt of the University of Vermont explains that back in the 17th century, many English cheesemakers realized that they could make more money if they skimmed off the cream — to sell it separately or make butter from it.

But in doing so, most of the color was lost, since the natural orange pigment is carried in the fatty cream.

So, to pass off what was left over — basically low-fat cheese made from white milk — as a high-quality product, the cheesemakers faked it.

"The cheesemakers were initially trying to trick people to mask the white color [of their cheese]," explains Kindstedt.

They began adding coloring from saffron, marigold, carrot juice and later, annatto, which comes from the seeds of a tropical plant. (It's also what Kraft will use to color its new varieties of macaroni and cheese.)

The devious cheesemakers of the 17th century used these colorings to pass their products off as the full-fat, naturally yellowish-orange cheese that Londoners had come to expect.

The tradition of coloring cheese then carried over in the U.S. Lots of cheesemakers in Indiana, Ohio, Wisconsin and New York have a long history of coloring cheddar.

The motivation was part tradition, part marketing to make their cheeses stand out. There was another reason, too: It helped cheesemakers achieve a uniform color in their cheeses.

But Kindstedt says it's not a tradition that ever caught on in New England dairy farms.

"Here in New England there was a disdain for brightly colored cheese," Kindstedt says.

And that's why to this day, we still see lots of naturally white cheddar cheese from places such as Vermont.

With the boom in the artisanal food movement, we're starting to see more cheese produced from grass-fed cows.

And as a result, we may notice the butterlike color in summer cheeses — similar to what the 17th century Londoners ate.

"We absolutely see the color changes when the cows transition onto pasture in early May," cheesemaker Nat Bacon of Shelburne Farms in Vermont wrote to us in an email. He says it's especially evident "in the whey after we cut the curd, and also in the finished cheese. Both get quite golden in color, kind of like straw, with the beta-carotenes the cows are eating in the fresh meadow grasses."


TOPICS: Food; History
KEYWORDS: agriculture; animalhusbandry; cheddar; cheese; cheesemaking; dietandcuisine; godsgravesglyphs; history; lactose; lactoseintolerance; lactosetolerance; milk; newengland
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To: NYer
***Fascinating! Does this lend credence to the difference in purchasing “free range” chickens?***

our free range chickens lay eggs with very yellow, almost orange yokes. I've read that professional egg farms feed their chickens a derivative from the marigold, high is saffron, to keep the yokes yellow.

There is a trade off for free range chickens. We loose many to predators.

21 posted on 11/09/2013 7:03:47 AM PST by Ruy Dias de Bivar (Sometimes you need 7+ more ammo. LOTS MORE.)
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To: jdege

My cardiologist does not want me to eat foods high in K. I have an artificial heart valve which requires very thin blood to keep me from having a heart attack or stroke.

I am on a high dosage of warfarin (rat poison). So, when a blood test shows too much thinning, I am allowed to eat some broccoli, or CHEETOS!


22 posted on 11/09/2013 7:08:15 AM PST by Ruy Dias de Bivar (Sometimes you need 7+ more ammo. LOTS MORE.)
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To: jdege

Thank you, fascinating.


23 posted on 11/09/2013 7:29:41 AM PST by txhurl ('The DOG ate my homework. That homework, too. ALL my homework. OK?' - POSHITUS)
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To: martin_fierro; NYer; Charles Henrickson

Fromage to age, cheese production has been a gouda cottage industry ....


24 posted on 11/09/2013 8:25:06 AM PST by mikrofon (Orange you glad clicked here?)
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To: Ruy Dias de Bivar
If you've had a heart-valve replacement, concerns about clotting are very real. OTOH, warfarin increases atherosclerosis. K prevents atherosclerosis, but increases clotting. It's a very delicate balance, that needs close monitoring by someone who really understands the issues.

Vitamin K & Warfarin

25 posted on 11/09/2013 10:03:13 AM PST by jdege
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To: jdege

Warfarin

Is that a Call of Duty game?


26 posted on 11/09/2013 10:04:30 AM PST by GeronL
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To: mikrofon

“The Devious Cheesemakers” is a good name for a band.


27 posted on 11/09/2013 5:01:09 PM PST by SoothingDave
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To: NYer; StayAt HomeMother; Ernest_at_the_Beach; decimon; 1010RD; 21twelve; 24Karet; 2ndDivisionVet; ..

Thanks NYer. Marketing has been the common characteristic fromage to age. ;')

28 posted on 11/09/2013 10:24:55 PM PST by SunkenCiv (http://www.freerepublic.com/~mestamachine/)
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To: NYer

"I want to buy some cheese."

29 posted on 11/09/2013 10:27:37 PM PST by dfwgator (Fire Muschamp.)
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To: jdege

Thanks for this. I try to eat as healthy as possible because well, Obamacare sure ain’t gonna be there to have our backs. Never heard of this before, will check the links.


30 posted on 11/09/2013 10:32:27 PM PST by Free Vulcan (Vote Republican! You can vote Democrat when you're dead...)
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To: dfwgator
"I want to buy some cheese."

And then it began, LOL.

Very funny skit and aggravating at the same time.

31 posted on 11/09/2013 10:35:10 PM PST by The Cajun (Sarah Palin, Mark Levin, Ted Cruz, Mike Lee, Louie Gohmert......Nuff said.)
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To: GeronL
Warfarin

Is that a Call of Duty game?

That would be rat poison.

32 posted on 11/09/2013 10:40:32 PM PST by cynwoody
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To: guyfromjrz

Here’s a link to some information from the National Institutes of Health about coumadin and vitamin K (including a list of foods) . . . I think it’s saying that you can eat foods rich in vitamin K, as long as you are consistent from day to day . . . because your dosage of coumadin can be adjusted to be in balance with your diet, including your intake of vitamin K, and levels are validated through regular blood tests.

http://www.cc.nih.gov/ccc/patient_education/drug_nutrient/coumadin1.pdf

What should I remember about warfarin (Coumadin) and vitamin K?

1. Follow your prescription exactly, and keep your follow-up appointments for blood tests such as the INR/PT. Warfarin (Coumadin) is a very important drug for you.

2. Keep vitamin K intake constant from day to day because warfarin (Coumadin) interacts with vitamin K in your body.

3. Avoid herbal products and dietary supplements that may affect vitamin K and warfarin (Coumadin) unless approved by a qualified health care provider.


33 posted on 11/10/2013 1:14:38 AM PST by deks
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To: Ruy Dias de Bivar

Years ago, a former neighbor would put about 100 chickens out in his pasture every spring; they roosted in the barn. By fall he’d only have 20 or 30 left. When he would put them out, I’d rib him about having just refilled his coyote feeder.


34 posted on 11/10/2013 1:28:48 AM PST by ApplegateRanch (Love me, love my guns!©)
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To: GeronL

No; Warfarin is a Star Fleet officer.


35 posted on 11/10/2013 1:30:47 AM PST by ApplegateRanch (Love me, love my guns!©)
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To: NYer

This is an interesting piece. I am a cheese eater.

My wife somehow bought some Cabot Vermont extra sharp cheddar. Wow!! it is goood. It is white.

The question in my mind was...... how or why do they make it white?

Now I know.


36 posted on 11/10/2013 4:58:05 AM PST by bert ((K.E. N.P. N.C. +12 ..... Travon... Felony assault and battery hate crime)
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To: deadrock

Was at the supermarket today, and checked out the brand of Cheddar. While it was made in Northern Ireland, the company that produces it is actually Danish! The company is named Uhrenholt, and the brand is Emborg.


37 posted on 11/10/2013 5:27:35 AM PST by Cowboy Bob (They are called "Liberals" because the word "parasite" was already taken.)
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To: NYer

Absolutely. The flesh of true ‘free range’ chickens is reddish=purple from eating worms.

Be leery of fake ‘free range’ chickens with white meat.


38 posted on 11/10/2013 7:29:25 AM PST by wildbill
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To: NYer

Absolutely. The flesh of true ‘free range’ chickens is reddish=purple from eating worms.

Be leery of fake ‘free range’ chickens with white meat.


39 posted on 11/10/2013 7:30:20 AM PST by wildbill
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To: The Cajun

Man in crowd: He said, “Blessed are the cheesemakers.”

woman in crowd: “Cheesemakers? What’s so blessed about them?”


40 posted on 11/10/2013 7:34:47 AM PST by wildbill
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