Is Recession Preparing a New Breed of Survivalist? [Survival Today

Yahoo ran an interesting article this morning indicating a rise in the number of survivalist communities cropping up around the country. I have been wondering myself how much of the recent energy crisis is causing people to do things like stockpile food and water, grow their own vegetables, etc. Could it be that there are many people out there stockpiling and their increased buying has caused food prices to increase? It’s an interesting theory, but I believe increased food prices have more to do with rising fuel prices as cost-to-market costs have increased and grocers are simply passing those increases along to the consumer. A recent stroll through the camping section of Wal-Mart did give me pause - what kinds of things are prudent to have on hand in the event of a worldwide shortage of food and/or fuel? Survivalist in Training

I’ve been interested in survival stories since I was a kid, which is funny considering I grew up in a city. Maybe that’s why the idea of living off the land appealed to me. My grandfather and I frequently took camping trips along the Blue Ridge Parkway and around the Smoky Mountains. Looking back, some of the best times we had were when we stayed at campgrounds without electricity hookups, because it forced us to use what we had to get by. My grandfather was well-prepared with a camp stove and lanterns (which ran off propane), and when the sun went to bed we usually did along with it. We played cards for entertainment, and in the absence of televisions, games, etc. we shared many great conversations. Survivalist in the Neighborhood

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/hooker41.html

For large quantity food dehydration try this homemade gem from the past

By Rev. J.D. Hooker

The thing I like the most about Backwoods Home is that, unlike a lot of other magazines, the articles are written by folks who are actually doing the things they write about. Folks like Massad Ayoob, Don Fallick, and Dynah Geissal have already learned their stuff by trial and error, which can save the rest of us the time, troubles, and expenses of initial experimentation. It’s good to fool around with new ideas, but we can use other folks’ experience as proven starting points, and then adapt our own ideas and improvements into their concepts. As an example of building on someone else’s experience, let me tell you how I ended up building the perfect large-quantity food dehydrator.

Since our garden, fruit trees, strawberry patches, etc., have always produced abundantly for us, we’ve worked at developing the skills to preserve this abundance from one harvest to the next. Canning and freezing only go so far, so for a couple of years we fooled around with various types of dehydrators. The relatively inexpensive Ronco brand electric dehydrator we purchased at an area gun show works great for small quantities, and we find it very useful for that.

1. Dry-stack block to make three walls. Rest the barrel on a bed of stones. Set 4x4s in the corners and sheet steel on top. 1. Dry-stack block to make three walls. Rest the barrel on a bed of stones. Set 4x4s in the corners and sheet steel on top.

However, solar dehydrators turned out to be an entirely different story. I can tell you from experience that unless you’re living somewhere like one of our southwestern deserts, where you can depend on plenty of hot, dry weather for lengthy periods, solar dryers (whether purchased or owner-built) just aren’t dependable enough for real backwoods-type use. As a result, I fooled around with several other ideas, but none of them worked out to our satisfaction.

I might have given up on the idea entirely had it not been for the intervention of an elderly friend whose family has owned and operated an apple orchard for several generations. Not only did this gentleman show me more than I’d ever thought of knowing about apple varieties (best choices for eating, baking, sweet and hard cider, applejack, etc.), but he also showed me what was left of the big wood-fired fruit dryers that his father and grandfather had used in the days before electric refrigeration, large commercial canneries, and such. While he explained how they were used, we looked them over. Remembering from his early youth, he also told me how his family, and other large commercial growers, would dry many tons of fruit every year. Demand always outran what they were able to supply.

Though the dryers on his property had pretty much fallen apart from years of decay and neglect, some simple measurements showed me that, when up and running, each one would have been easily capable of holding 30 bushels of produce. He assured me that regardless of the weather conditions, 24 hours was the maximum drying time, even for the juiciest fruit.

[continues, plans and drawings]

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/green85.html

Exotic plants
for the homestead

By Corcceigh Green

Isn’t it funny how even the things we step on while walking on the lawn have value? I learned this first hand last summer as I discovered some of the most wonderful helpers of the plant kingdom, all of which we generally snub as lowly weeds, and all of which now play a significant role on my homestead. Most people will consider my new plant resources as pests, but having tested their particular fruits, I now consider these “weeds” to be exotic plants for the homestead. As you will see, if you give these plants a try next growing season, they have many benefits to those seeking self-reliance.

One of those benefits is that they are stronger than our cultivated vegetable varieties, and don’t need as much coddling to thrive in your garden. These widespread native species are acclimated to their geographical location and that location’s growing conditions. For example, my location is mountainous and cold, and while I can expect frost at any time of the year, my exotic plants are relatively unaffected though I must cover my conventional vegetables for protection. Whether you live in an arid, wet, or cold climate, the plants that you collect in your location will be adapted to your location’s climate. Other benefits come from the plants themselves. Each plant has a variety of uses and each use is unique to the plant providing it. We will discuss these uses as we discuss the individual plants.

Wild rose bushes produce loads of rose hips.
Wild rose bushes produce loads of rose hips.

The cultivation of these plants is pretty straightforward. You will either collect their seeds or transplant the entire plant. Check with your local laws before transplanting any plant. Some species are protected by law, and “harming” them could bring you legal troubles. For plants that are annual (grow once, then die off and leave seeds) or small, easy to grow plants, you will be collecting seed from them, as transplanting these plants is not as productive. When collecting seeds from any plant, be sure to allow the seeds to mature on the plant. The seeds should be dry, not green, and hard. The plant should look dry and perhaps dead. This way the seeds will be fertile and productive. Pluck the seed pods from the stalk and rub them between your hands to extract the seeds, then place them on a piece of paper or outdoor work desk, and gently blow on the pile of seeds to separate the chaff. Store your seeds in an empty vitamin or pill bottle.

You will need to transplant larger perennial plants and shrubs, as growing some of these plants could take decades. Of course collecting seeds from these plants will work, if digging them up is illegal in your area. It will just take a lot longer to reap their benefits. Begin in the spring and summer by identifying the plants in your area that you wish to transplant into your yard or garden. Look for the strongest, healthiest plants, not necessarily the biggest. When you’ve found your plants, mark them by tying a cloth around a branch or trunk, then write down in a notebook what you have found and where they are located. Come back to your prospective transplants in early autumn when the plants have gone dormant. If you can carry water with you, water your plants heavily before digging up. This will help the soil stick more closely to the plant’s root ball. When using your shovel, give a wide berth to the plants. You may have to dig up more than one at a time, but this is OK. Place your plants into a box, and pack with more soil, until the box is filled and no roots are exposed. Now, transport your plants to their new homes where you will already have their holes dug. Place your plants into their new soil, covering their roots. You may have to stake them up temporarily. Now water again and mulch. Coddle your transplants their first year with plenty of water and mulch. To help their roots, crush some B complex vitamins and mix the powder into the soil.

Types of plants

Now that you know how to collect your wonder plants, you must be curious as to exactly what plants I have been raving about. Here is my list of plants and their benefits. These plants are widespread and have varieties growing in most geographical locations. All varieties have the same benefits and will serve their homesteaders well.

Shepherd’s purse
Shepherd’s purse

Shepherd’s purse: On the top of my list is shepherd’s purse. Also known as pepper grass, this is an extremely handy and useful plant, so much so, that it should be cultivated by everyone as a conventional garden plant. Its leaves contain more vitamin C than oranges and has been used in herbal medicine against scurvy. The leaves are also used as a substitute for lettuce, and when finely cut, can be fed to chickens who need greens for proper nutrition. The addition of shepherd’s purse greens to chickens’ diet will improve the chickens’ overall health because of the vitamin C content.

The real benefit to shepherd’s purse however, is its seeds. The seeds of shepherd’s purse, when not used for plant production, are used as a substitute for pepper. When ground in a pepper grinder and sprinkled over food, the seeds have a spicy pepper flavor. If for no other reason, shepherd’s purse should be cultivated for its spicy seeds. The seeds also make a great sales item in farmers markets. Sold in pepper shakers, the crushed seeds make a wonderful cash crop.

Shepherd’s purse is an annual that grows close to the ground and has quite small leaves. The seeds grow on stalks that grow up above the leaves. Each seed pod growing on the stalk looks like a shepherd’s purse (hence the name) and contains two seeds. They are collected in the exact manner described in the paragraph detailing collecting seeds. To grow shepherd’s purse, plant your seeds one eighth inch deep, and one inch apart in your garden.

Plaintain: More useful than at first thought is plantain. Plantain is not considered useful, mostly because of its unwanted abundance in the lawns of suburbanites. On the homestead however, its abundance and proclivity can be put to good use. The leaves, tender when young, but becoming tough quickly, are a good source of calcium making the finely cut greens of considerable value when added to laying hen feed, as laying chickens need extra calcium to produce eggs. This also tends to free up more garden kale for human consumption. The leaves of plantain are also very soothing to bruises when mixed with olive oil and pounded into a poultice. The seeds, when not used for plant production, may be powdered. One teaspoon added to one cup of hot water to steep is good for a sore throat.

Plaintain
Plaintain

Plantain is so common that you probably don’t need to bother growing it, but if you wish to anyway, grow it by seed as it is annual. Its leaves grow close to the ground, and its seed pods grow along the entire surface of its single stem shoots. Collect them in the usual manner and rake into your soil along a row.

Wild rice: Wild rice is very tasty, nutritious, and the variety growing in my area is also very expensive. Fetching prices of four to six dollars per single serving boxes, wild rice makes a fabulous cash crop. Look for varieties in your area next to rivers, lakes, and other waterways. Wild rice is a type of long, single-stemmed grass with a blade (leaf) growing from the stem alternately. Its kernel (seed) is larger than most wild grass seeds and of course like wheat and other grasses, is the edible portion. Wild rice is definitely worth the space on your homestead whether you use wild rice as a cash crop, or on your own plate.

To cultivate wild rice, thresh the kernels when they are mature by cutting the stalks, then gathering the stalks into bundles and hitting the kernel ends on the ground. When you do this, the kernels will fall onto the ground. Gather the kernels, and rub them hard, and vigorously between your hands to separate the chaff. Let the chaff and kernels fall from your hands onto a blanket. Use the blanket to winnow the chaff away. The kernels are then ready to eat or sell. It is not necessary to separate the chaff or winnow if you are going to plant the kernels.

Wild Rose
Wild Rose

Plant the kernels early in the spring or late autumn by sprinkling in rows and mulching. If you are planting in the autumn, mulch heavily. In the spring, keep the soil soaked. Standing water is OK. After spring, regular watering will be fine. If you have a source of water on your property such as a river, plant your wild rice along its banks to use as a source of water.

Wild raspberries: Wild raspberries are plentiful in the mountains of my area and are easily transplanted and grown. Their berries are high in fiber and vitamins. Their leaves are used in herbal medicine against female complaints. The berries are very useful on the homestead in jellies, jams, or raw. The berries are also an excellent cash crop grown with other useful plants such as wild roses, currents, and elderberries in hedge row privacy screens. They can be advertised as U pick wild raspberries and can bring in a tidy sum.

Cultivate wild raspberries by following the directions in the paragraph detailing transplanting techniques. Transplant raspberries seven feet from each other and other plants to allow for spreading. Transplant with other plants mentioned above for a wild setting and for a privacy screen. The privacy screen will also provide habitation for wildlife if you wish to observe animals or are a hunter.

Currents: Currents grow mainly in mountainous areas, but I include them here, as their cousins, gooseberries, are more widespread and can be purchased in nurseries. Currents produce small, delicious, red berries. They produce very heavily when kept watered and are a benefit to the homesteading type, as their berries are becoming rare and considered a delicacy. This also makes their berries and jellies a tremendous cash crop. If you are also growing apples on your homestead, grow your currents on the other side of your property, as currents can also spread some rust diseases. Cultivate currents as you would for wild raspberries.

Raspberry
Raspberry

Wild roses: Wild roses, as with raspberries, make an excellent property barrier due to their thorny canes. Wild roses grow thickly, smell great when blooming, and produce loads of rose hips. The rose hips are harvested after they’ve turned completely red. The hips are then boiled until they are soft, then mashed, and strained through cheese cloth. Add two cups of sugar to one cup of strained rose hips, then can as any other fruit. The hips may also be dried and powdered to be brewed into rose hip tea. The hips are also high in vitamin C.

Transplant wild roses in the same manner as currents and wild raspberries, unless you want an instant living fence. In this case, plant your roses three feet apart in two or more rows. Stagger your rows so that plants in one row will fill the three foot gap in the plants of the previous row. This may also be accomplished with wild raspberries.

Elderberries: Elderberries provide clusters of small delicious purple berries. They also add the dimension of height to your privacy screen, and provide shelter for songbirds. Elderberry jelly also provides a moderate cash crop, though the berries themselves do not bring in as much. Elderberry’s use on the homestead is probably best relegated to personal use. The berries are delicious in jellies, pies, and wine. Its pithy branches can be used in craft projects to make whistles, flutes, and pipes.

Transplanting wild elderberries is basically the same as with the other plants that have been described. The difference is that you must look for younger, and therefore smaller shrubs to transplant. This is because the elderberry grows to a larger height than our other shrubs, making transportation more difficult. Also, you will want to plant your elderberries staggered along your privacy barrier to give a broken, natural look and to create a look of depth as well as height.

These are my suggestions. Some of the plants described can produce valuable cash crops, and some are great for personal use, but all certainly have a place on the homestead.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/glade75.html

Caring for wounds in the field

By Bill Glade, M.D.

The beautiful remote Canadian lake has provided a bountiful supply of fresh fish. You are cleaning the catch when a moment’s inattention allows the knife to slip and create a deep slash into your leg. The bleeding is stopped with pressure; but now what do you do? Where is that kit with the medical instruments? When did you last check them for sterility? Where is that book on emergency medicine and exactly how do you make those sutures?

There is a common misconception that wounds need to be closed in order to heal. Texts on wilderness medicine will include sections on suturing techniques and equipment. They list recommended instruments, suture materials, and methods of making stitches. Unfortunately they don’t mention that suturing is an acquired skill and not easy to do, especially on yourself. Also, anyone who is planning to suture every laceration or wound that occurs in a remote location had also better learn the signs of several interesting wild creatures such as clostridium tetani (tetanus), clostridium perfringens (gas gangrene), staphylococcus, streptococcus, and pseudomonas.

Surgeons divide wounds into four categories: clean, clean-contaminated, contaminated, and dirty/infected. The differences between each class are determined by the amount of bacterial contamination expected in the wound.

The first two categories are for patients in a hospital. A clean wound occurs when prepared (cleansed) skin is opened in a controlled fashion and no internal organs are entered. Hernia repair is a good example. Clean-contaminated wounds also happen in operating rooms, as when an internal organ is operated upon under controlled circumstances, often with antibiotic coverage. A good example is an appendectomy.

Contaminated wounds include open fresh traumatic injuries or surgery with bacterial contamination from an internal organ. Slashing your hand with the same knife you have been using to clean fish or game would be a good example of the former.

Dirty and infected wounds contain dead tissue, pus, foreign material (e.g. wood, grass, etc.), gross contamination (e.g. dirt, manure) or are contaminated wounds that have received no treatment in the first hours after injury.

The classification system is useful because it predicts the chance of an injured area becoming infected. Infection rates by classification are:

* clean: 1.5-3.9%
* clean contaminated: 3.0-4.0%
* contaminated: 8.5%
* dirty wounds: 28-40%

Obviously, the dirtier your wound the greater likelihood of a subsequent infection. This is especially true if you suture up the wound and trap the contamination inside. Bacteria in a warm, closed space feed on bloody injured tissue and are able to multiply rapidly. Using chemical bulldozers they are able to spread into the surrounding healthy tissues causing an infected wound that is red and drains pus. If drainage doesn’t occur they can spread through tissue planes causing fasciitis, the so-called flesh eating disease, or spread throughout your entire body causing fatal infection.

With proper cleansing and antibiotics a contaminated wound can frequently be closed without infection but even surgeons in a hospital will usually leave a dirty wound open initially. This allows the fluid and bacteria to drain from the wound and antibiotics to kill the invading bacteria. After the wound has been repeatedly cleansed and treated with antibiotics, closure can be accomplished with little chance of infection.

Within six hours

The following are suggestions for treatment of a wound which occurs when you are some distance from medical care. They are based on one easy question:

Can you get to qualified medical care within six hours?

If the answer is yes I would recommend:

a) Stop the bleeding with pressure on the wound.

b) Once bleeding has stopped, gently clean out any gross debris, such as wood particles and rocks, but don’t do it so vigorously that it restarts the bleeding. Also remember that this area may be very painful so don’t torture yourself or your injured companion. If you carry local anesthetics in your medical supply kit now is the time to use them. You can inject with a needle but it can also be effectively used by dripping some into the wound. When it numbs the site a little, wet a gauze with the rest and place it in the wound. After a few minutes the wound will be less painful and easier to clean.

c) Place a sterile gauze or clean piece of cloth into the opening and wrap the site with gauze or an ace wrap. If it is near a joint, try to immobilize the joint to prevent further bleeding and pain.

d) Transport expeditiously to a hospital. Don’t take any antibiotics unless it is going to be a long trip. The hospital personnel will likely sample the wound for bacteria and prescribe appropriate antibiotics. If you have a long transport and carry antibiotics, cephalexin or ciprofloxacin would be good choices.

e) If there hasn’t been a lot of blood loss and the person isn’t nauseated, give them some pain medication for the trip.

Over six hours

If you cannot get to medical care in six hours or are in a really isolated area:

a) Stop the bleeding by pressure on the wound.

b) Once bleeding has stopped, gently clean out any gross debris, such as wood particles and rock, but don’t do it so vigorously that it restarts the bleeding. In this circumstance try harder to physically remove the materials. If you have access to a lot of water, irrigate the area thoroughly. The water won’t be sterile but shouldn’t be grossly dirty or contaminated. Again, do not clean so vigorously that you restart any bleeding, and make use of any local anesthetics as directed above.

c) Place sterile gauze or clean cloth into the wound as deep as you can without causing undue pain. Cover the site with more gauze pads, and wrap the site with gauze or an ace wrap. If it is near a joint, try to immobilize the joint to prevent further bleeding and pain.

d) This wound will seep a lot of fluid and the dressing may need to be changed frequently in the first 48 hours. Make an effort to cleanse the site with water and then replace the gauze pack. Removing the pack will help to remove a lot of the debris that you couldn’t easily get out initially. After several days the wound will not be nearly as painful and the dressing change will be easier to do.

e) If you have antibiotics go ahead and take them in this circumstance. Topical antibiotic ointments such as Bacitracin, Triple Antibiotic, or Bactroban could also be helpful. I would place some on the gauze that is placed into the wound.

If there has been extensive blood loss, an open fracture exists, or there are other serious associated injuries (head, chest, abdomen) begin expeditious transport to medical assistance or use any available communication to summon help to the scene.

If this is simply a contaminated laceration and you have adequate dressing supplies, you may continue to treat the wound in an open fashion. It will heal on its own in two to four weeks. It may leave a wider scar than desired, but you can later find a plastic surgeon who will revise it.

I recently watched a movie called The Professional in which our hit man/hero bravely dealt with a gunshot wound in his chest. In true Rambo fashion, lacking anesthesia, he sutured up the bleeding edges and continued his fight. He was later killed by the bad (worse) guys saving a surgical team the need to try and save him from his infected wound. A bullet containing oil and gunpowder passing through cloth and dirty skin creates a grossly contaminated wound. Closing the skin over trapped blood, dead tissue, and foreign material creates a buffet table for bacteria. Don’t make the same mistake. Pack it open, avoid the infection, and let it heal cleanly.

Has photos.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/gist107.html

Propagating grapes

By Sylvia Gist

As a kid in western South Dakota, I enjoyed picking wild grapes and using the delightful juice they produced, so when I eventually acquired property in Montana, I wanted grape vines to help me be self-sufficient. I bought a “Valiant” vine, which produces a smallish purple grape that reminded me of the wild ones we picked, but much sweeter, and it flourished.
Buds swell and leaves emerge.
Buds swell and leaves emerge.

“Valiant,” a very hardy seeded grape combining the variety Fredonia with the wild Vitis riparia, was developed by South Dakota State University especially for cold climates. I chose it because of its ability to withstand temperatures of -30 degrees Fahrenheit (which it occasionally drops to around here) and its ability to produce juice for drinking and making jelly.

I wasn’t satisfied with just one, but didn’t want to go buy another. I found a way to make mine multiply. The annual late winter/early spring pruning provided lots of canes, some of which I saved to experiment with. From these canes I made cuttings. I had success with starting them indoors, but not outdoors. The process I will describe is for vines that are not grafted on a different rootstock.

One thing that you need to check, though, is whether the grape is a patented variety. Not a lot of them are, but the “Valiant,” for example, is. Since it is, I have to send a propagation fee (in this case 20 cents for each vine started) to the organization that is collecting it. I have started vines for friends and relatives and have even sold a few. Turning one grapevine into more isn’t really very hard. Before you know it, you can have a whole vineyard.
This 1-year-old vine is flourishing.
This 1-year-old vine is flourishing.

Making cuttings

With the “Valiant” there are always lots of canes to use for cuttings. Some grapevines are extremely vigorous and require lots of pruning. This is necessary to limit the burden of production on the vine. Properly pruned, the vine will produce a nice amount of good clusters every year.

In March when I prune away the extra canes, I save a few of the first year canes that are the size of a pencil or bigger and cut them into cuttings. A first year cane is one that just grew in the previous summer and will not have any fibrous bark on it. These canes, at this time of year, are poised to start growing when warm weather hits, thus the reason for collecting them before the buds swell.

First, I select three or four buds (those swellings that will become stems) to be included in the cutting. Next, I make a diagonal cut an inch above the top bud and a flat cut below the bottom bud. This helps distinguish the top from the bottom.

Potting

It works best to do the planting as soon as possible, but I have kept the “sticks” a few days in the refrigerator with the bottoms wrapped in a moist paper towel. For best results, however, plant immediately. I select a tall planter, such as a half gallon milk carton or a 3# coffee can, make a hole in the bottom for drainage, and fill the container ¾ full of potting soil. Finally I dip the cutting in rooting hormone, if I have any, and push the cutting into the soil as far as it will go.
Between 1 year and 2 years old the vine can grow quite a lot.
Between 1 year and 2 years old the vine can grow quite a lot.

I make sure the soil is moist and then set the container in a tray in a sunny (but not hot) window and wait for the buds to burst and grow. I have had good luck setting them in a west-facing basement window (basement is heated). A friend kept hers on a table in front of an east window in their living room. I try to keep them fairly evenly moist, but not soggy.

After a while, leaves begin to emerge. The leaves will appear before any roots sprout.

Not long after I notice leaves coming, I will likely notice some clusters of what appear to be minute bunches of green grapes, actually blossom clusters. When these get out far enough to safely pinch off without damaging leaves or vine, I pinch them off. The vine does not need to be trying to produce grapes.
At two years old, I start pruning for shape and form.
At two years old, I start pruning for shape and form.

Hardening off

When all danger of frost is past, I harden off the vines by setting the pots out in a protected place such as the east side of the house where there is shade a good part of the day. This part of the process for me here in Montana begins in June. In a month or so, having given them some time to grow some roots, I set them out where I am planning to put them in. This location will allow plenty of space (8 feet from each other), good soil drainage, good air circulation to discourage disease, and lots of sunshine. Then I am ready to proceed to planting.

Planting outside

I dig a hole about two feet in diameter and a foot or more deep and throw in a little compost. I don’t put in too much fertilizer, because that would cause the vine to make too many leaves and not enough root. Then I position the plant with the roots spread out at a depth which will allow the soil line on the stem to remain the same as it was in the pot. Next, I fill up the hole halfway with good dirt and add water. After allowing the water to drain away, I fill in more dirt up to that soil line on the stem. A small amount of grass clippings spread around to mulch the vine helps keep the soil moist.

Protection
This is a young (around 5 years old) vine, pruned and ready for spring. I’m encouraging this one to go up instead of bush out.
This is a young (around 5 years old) vine, pruned and ready for spring. I’m encouraging this one to go up instead of bush out.

These vines will be younger and more vulnerable than those available from local nurseries, so I usually put some kind of protection around the little guys. A coffee can or something similar works very well. Then when winter comes, I put fallen leaves in the container. These are best removed in spring to keep the vine from warming too soon.

The vine in its first spring outside may actually die back to the root. A cane will spring up from the root leaving the original cane dry and dead. This may not be true of all grapes, but seems to be true of this hardy “Valiant.” Of course, this behavior will affect your pruning. Generally I leave this particular vine to its own devices during this first full year outside, especially if the vine had to come up from the root. But the next year I start pruning to train the vine in earnest. Now the vine is about the same age as most vines available at the nursery.

Postponing planting
The vigorous ‘Valiant’ puts out a lot of canes and leaves in one season.
The vigorous “Valiant” puts out a lot of canes and leaves in one season.

If I don’t know where I want to plant the vine, it is possible to plant it in a large pot and grow it like a potted plant outside for the first summer. When fall comes, I dig a hole anywhere and set the pot in it, hill dirt up around it, and mulch it. Next spring, I dig up the pot and plant the vine in its permanent location.

Eventually there will be grapes to harvest. In the first few years, however, it is best to remove the fruit to allow the vine to establish itself. Once established, it will produce better.

By using this easy propagation method, I practically have a vineyard. And it’s easy to get and share cuttings with friends and neighbors who have a different variety of grapes.

An excellent resource for help with grapes and especially pruning them is Taylor’s Guide to Fruits and Berries, edited by Roger Holmes. There are excellent illustrations and even a list of recommended varieties.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/rohdenburg81a.html

Traditional trail foods
Transportable calories

By Brad Rohdenburg

Napoleon said that an army marches on its stomach. Frederick the Great defined an army as a group of men who demanded daily feeding. One can imagine the nutritional problems of a large group on the move. Armies through the ages have tried everything from bottling snails to bringing along herds of livestock. It’s difficult to keep mess kits and cooking equipment adequately clean under rugged field conditions, so illnesses were rampant. In most campaigns, more troops have been lost to sickness than to the enemy. Sometimes it was impossible to deliver food to the front line troops who needed it most. Hunger has ended many ambitions. The search for transportable calories, the “research and product development” of earlier armies, has finally resulted in the MRE. “MRE” stands for “Meal, Ready to Eat.”

Eating pemmican on the mountain
Eating pemmican on the mountain

In accordance with the Office of the Surgeon General’s nutritional requirements as identified in Army Regulation 4025, Nutritional Standards for Operational Rations, they will survive a 100 foot drop from a helicopter with no parachute, endure inclement weather and survive temperature extremes from minus 60 degrees Fahrenheit to 120 degrees Fahrenheit and have a minimum shelf life of three years at 80 degrees F and last for six months at 100 degrees F. Now people on the move can have a meal on demand by carrying it with them. Mess kits and pots and pans have been eliminated. MREs set the current standard for traveling rations, but they aren’t magic. Those who use them are encumbered and inconvenienced by the weight and bulk of plastic utensils, condiments, heaters and a remarkable amount of packaging. Having to cook them to make them appealing wastes time. (I know, they’re designed to be eaten cold if necessary. Have a few dozen that way and then come back and tell me about it.) And if you’re buying your own MREs rather than having them issued by Uncle Sam, they’re prohibitively expensive.

If you have a need for trail food—storable, transportable, convenient, affordable and palatable calories—maybe we can learn something from the old ways. Jerky, pemmican, hardtack, and parched corn are traditional travel rations that have passed the test of time. They are products that have been produced, relied on, and refined for centuries, even millennia. Just a touch of modern technology and convenience makes them even better today.

Jerky, pemmican, hardtack, and parched corn are ways to put game, livestock, wild berries, and garden produce by in times of plenty. Easily made, transported, and stored, they became frontier staples for travelers, hunters, and warriors. They are still excellent trail foods and emergency rations.

I take jerky, pemmican, hardtack, and parched corn along on wilderness trips. Supplemented by some tea, salt, and rice and whatever I can catch or gather, I can exist pretty comfortably and feel healthy doing it. Even if I take more modern foods along as well, the historical perspective is fun. They’re comforting to have in reserve, too, in case the bush plane doesn’t show up on time, or the wind keeps your canoe ashore for a couple extra days. (Their only drawback as emergency rations is that I’m tempted to eat them before I’m truly hungry).
Jerky

Jerky is said to keep for years, but it’s so good that around my house it’s shelf life is usually measured in minutes. Here’s my favorite recipe:

11/2 lbs. very lean ground meat—(Any meat that isn’t fatty, including fish and birds. Avoid pork or bear.)
1/4 cup soy
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. Liquid Smoke
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. black pepper

Combine all the marinade ingredients and pour over the meat. Refrigerate until the meat absorbs the solution. (Chilled meat is also firmer and easier to work with.) Roll the ground meat out and cut into strips about 1/4-inch thick and an inch or two wide. The strips can then be dried either on plastic screens or in a food dehydrator. Our forebears often simply draped strips of meat over branches; they built a cool, smoky fire underneath to keep away flies if necessary.
Pemmican

At its simplest, pemmican is only powdered jerky bound together with melted fat. It tastes far better than it sounds. When you’re working hard outdoors, especially in the cold, listen to your body. Pemmican will satisfy your craving for calories in ways that a candy bar won’t. It’s said to provide every essential but vitamin C. The concept of pemmican was borrowed from the American Indians. It begins with lean meat, traditionally of bison, moose, elk, or deer. It was dried over a fire or in the sun and wind. The dried meat was ground and shredded between stones. Sometimes ground dried berries, nuts, or honey were added. Finally, melted fat and/or bone marrow grease were mixed in. Pemmican could be eaten as is, or made into a soup or stew. When available, mint leaves or wild onions could be added for flavor.

Parched corn is easy to make, stores well, and makes a great trail food.
Parched corn is easy to make, stores well, and makes a great trail food.

The Hudson’s Bay Company bought pemmican from the Indians and later the Metis as the staple food of their fur brigades and established a standard of quality. It paid a premium for “sweet pemmican” made solely from the best of lean meats—preferably from bison cows and young bulls—and only bone marrow grease. Pemmican production became the most important industry on the high plains next to the fur trade.

Pemmican was originally stored in the stomach or intestines of animals. Indians shaped it into small round cakes. The Hudson’s Bay Company specified that it be stored in 45-kg. green bison skin bags called “parfleches,” sealed with tallow. As the parfleches dried they shrank, in effect vacuum-sealing themselves. They would keep for years. During the fur trade, it was reckoned that pemmican was nutritionally worth four times its weight in meat. Hudson’s Bay Company pemmican consisted of 50% dried meat and 50% fat/marrow.
“Modern” pemmican

Very dry jerky. Use deer, moose, caribou, or beef (not pork or bear).
Fresh beef suet. (the raw fat from around the kidneys and loins)
Any seedless dried fruit not preserved with sulfites (optional)

Cut the suet into chunks and render (melt) it over low heat, until it becomes a rich golden-brown liquid. Continue to heat until all moisture is removed. It’s important to remove all water from the fat to prevent it from going rancid. Strain it and throw away the solids. Allow it to cool—it will turn white. This is tallow. Rendering twice will make the tallow harder and give it better keeping qualities. Tallow, when cooled, resembles candle wax in color and consistency. In fact, if you have any left over, it can be made into candles. Lewis and Clark took cotton wicking along with them for that purpose, and wrote their journals by the smokey light of tallow candles. Add some beeswax or paraffin to make them burn better.

In a blender, grind the dried meat to a powder. Chop or grind the dried fruits and mix them with the dried meat powder. (Many who have acquired the taste for pemmican, myself included, prefer it without any fruit.)

Heat the tallow again. Make sure it is as hot as it can get without smoking. (Smoking means burning.) Pour the tallow into the dried meat mixture, adding just enough to moisten the particles. If it’s too cool you will have to use a lot of it to stick the mixture together and the pemmican will be too rich and fatty. At this point, if the tallow is cooling down too quickly to allow it to soak in properly, you can microwave the whole mixture to warm it up.

Form the warm pemmican into blocks or bars or patties. Allow them to cool and wrap in waxed paper or store in plastic bags.
“Peanut butter” pemmican

If you can’t quite bring yourself to eat the real thing yet, try this substitute:

1 part jerky
1 part peanuts or pecans, unroasted
1 part raisins
1 part any seedless dried fruit(s) not preserved with sulfites—apples, peaches, blueberries, etc.
Peanut butter and honey, in a two-to-one ratio
Cayenne pepper, to taste (optional, but contrasts nicely with the sweet fruits and honey.)

Four easy to make, easy to carry, and energy-packed trails foods, clockwise from left: parched corn, hardtack, pemmican, and jerky.
Four easy to make, easy to carry, and energy-packed trails foods, clockwise from left: parched corn, hardtack, pemmican, and jerky.

Powder the jerky in a blender. Add fruit and nuts. Microwave honey and peanut butter to soften them, then blend them into the mixture. (Use less than you think you’ll need, just enough to bind everything together. If you get it wrong, it’s easier to add more peanut butter and honey than to add more of everything else.) Add cayenne pepper, working it in thoroughly. Store in plastic bags.
Hardtack

Essentially a very hard cracker, hardtack was the standard traveling fare for soldiers, sailors, and pioneers up through WWI. Originally made from only salt, flour, and a little water, it was universally despised. It was traditionally either dipped in coffee, or soaked in hot water and then fried in bacon drippings. This updated version is far more healthy and tasty, and just as easy to store and transport.

2 cups fresh whole wheat flour (Best if you grind it yourself—wheat berries lose nutritional value rapidly once ground.)
2 cups fresh corn meal (Again, best if you grind it yourself right before baking.)
1/2 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup rolled oats
1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 Tbsp. salt
13/4 cups water

Mix dry ingredients thoroughly. Add water. Knead until moistened but not sticky. Roll 1/4 inch thick. Cut into 3-inch squares or rounds. Place on ungreased cookie sheets. Score with a knife to facilitate breaking later. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container.
Parched corn

Corn was the staple grain on the American frontier for pioneers and Indians alike, as it was (and is) relatively easy to grow, harvest, and process without machinery. There are four basic types: flour, dent, flint, and sweet. All may be dried on the cob, and may then be stored indefinitely. If you want to go modern, then just buy frozen whole kernel corn at the grocery store and dehydrate it.

Parching corn makes these hard kernels softer for your teeth and much more digestible. It’s a lightweight, high energy food that was carried by Indian warriors and hunters. It was also considered a treat by pioneer children. It can be eaten as is, or ground and added to soups and stews. You’ll be surprised at how it revitalizes you.

Heat a small amount of butter or lard or oil in a skillet on low. Wipe the skillet with a paper towel so that only a thin coat remains—just enough to prevent the corn from sticking. Pour in enough dry kernels to almost cover the bottom of the pan. Stir constantly to prevent burning. The kernels are done when they swell and turn light to medium brown and begin to pop. It takes from about one to five minutes. Dump the corn out onto a plate lined with a paper towel to soak up any remaining oil or grease, then re-oil your skillet and do some more. Enough for a day will fit in a plastic bag in your pocket.

On your next outing, try traveling light. Jerky, pemmican, hardtack, and parched corn will keep you going all day, without utensils to clean, or trash to dispose of, or the need to stop and cook. For dinner, pemmican stewed with whatever greens or tubers you’ve foraged, thickened with parched corn and served with hardtack will give you a literal taste of days gone by.

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Raising rabbits for profit

By Carrie Peterson

Whether or not you are fond of rabbit stew, raising rabbits for meat can be a great experience and can even help swell your pocketbook a little. The same characteristics that make rabbits good backyard pets also make them good to raise for meat: They take up little space, are easy to care for, and are relatively inexpensive to house and feed.

I’ve been raising rabbits since I was a kid, starting out with pets, then graduating to 4-H show rabbits, then finally to meat rabbits, which I sold to a butcher and auctioned off at local fairs. At its peak, the rabbitry my mom, sister, and I shared housed over seventy rabbits and was making us a couple thousand dollars a year, but it all started out with old Floppy Ears in a crumbling hutch. We learned a lot from trial and error, and even more from talking with other rabbit raisers. Here are some tips to start you off on the right foot.

A profitable meat rabbit business can be started with just three or four does (females), a buck (male) or two, some basic equipment, and a buyer. First, decide on what type of rabbit to raise. It will be easier to find a buyer for the offspring if they are pure bred, but whether or not they have pedigrees is up to you. Pedigrees are more important if you plan on selling the offspring to other breeders or you will want to show them at some point. The most common breeds are Californians and white New Zealands. If you decide to go with a different breed, stick with white fur. Whoever butchers the rabbit will appreciate it, as white hairs are not as discernible on a carcass as dark hairs. (Some butchers refuse to use dark-haired rabbits at all because of this.) Rabbit hutches

Buy quality stock from a respected breeder in your area. You can find one by calling your local 4-H office, or by attending a rabbit show and talking to breeders. It’s best to talk to several people before buying. That will give you a feel for who is reliable because, just like in any business, some breeders will overcharge for their stock and give you bad information. By and large, however, experienced breeders love to help someone get started.

When purchasing the rabbits, look for signs of good health. Make sure the animals are lively; with clear, bright eyes; soft, clean fur; and no moisture around the nose and mouth. Rabbits become sexually mature at about five months, and you probably don’t want to purchase anything older than three years. (Average life expectancy is eight years.)

If you don’t mind butchering your own rabbits, you can look for a buyer in the restaurant industry. Offer reliable delivery of a certain number of dressed rabbits per week. If you prefer to leave the butchering to someone else (which is probably wisest if you are inexperienced), look for a middleman. These people make a living from buying live rabbits, butchering and dressing rabbits, then selling them to restaurants, sometimes across the state. My family dealt with a middleman for many years, and found it to be much easier and still profitable. The benefits are that you don’t have to spend the time butchering and you can take as many rabbits as you have ready at one time instead of having to meet a certain quota. The drawback is that the middleman will pay less than a direct sale to a restaurant will.

Aside from a draft-free barn or garage, initial expenses will include the rabbits, caging, feed and water dispensers, feed, and nest boxes. For a new 30” by 36” wire rabbit cage you can plan on spending about $30. You have several options for feed and water containers: water bottles and metal feed dispensers for about $5 each (allowing you to feed and water without having to open the cage door), rabbit crocks for somewhat less, or an automatic watering system for quite a bit more (kits can be purchased from rabbit supply stores). Conversely, you can use heavy old soup bowls that the rabbits cannot tip over. We used an eclectic mix of bowls, crocks, bottles, and dispensers, and the rabbits never complained.

You will want to purchase some new, large, metal nest boxes at a feed store or from another rabbit raiser for about $10 each. It’s best to have one for each doe, as they will need the boxes for about a month after kindling (having their babies). An alternative is to make the boxes yourself, which is not too difficult. Wooden boxes are warmer and less expensive, but they are also less sanitary and they get chewed on. Make sure you don’t use redwood or cedar, as these woods have slivers that can hurt a rabbit’s digestive tract.

The rabbits themselves can cost anywhere between $25 to $60 each. Be aware that you get what you pay for, and spending a bit more on breeding stock is usually worth it in the long run.

A slight expense to think about is cooling. Rabbits cannot tolerate much heat, and when it gets into the 90s they may seriously suffer, especially bucks, who may go sterile. We used wet towels for them to lie on. Just fold them and soak them in a bucket of water at night and put them in the cages in the morning. We made ice bottles out of large plastic pop bottles filled ¾ of the way and frozen for them to lay against. We hosed down the outside of the barn and took advantage of the breeze by opening and closing various windows throughout the day. Later, we added fans and a sprinkler system on the roof. Tracking form

Once you have your new rabbits snug in their barn, you’re ready to start thinking about your breeding plan. A doe has a gestation period of 28-32 days, and the babies can be weaned as early as six weeks, although we often left them with the mother eight weeks or longer. Plan on three months between breedings, which means each doe is having about four litters per year. The average litter size is 5-7, although this varies. If conditions are ideal, you will end up with about 24 offspring per doe per year. If you have a herd of just three does and a buck, you’ll have a maximum of 72 meat rabbits per year to sell.

Record keeping is important to make sure you are managing your herd well, and are keeping track of the individual performances of each rabbit. I’ve included a form that worked well for me:

Also be sure to list your expenses and income to be sure you are making a profit.

Once your rabbitry is set up, your labor and expenses are fairly minimal. You will need to buy rabbit food (pellets made primarily from alfalfa, costing about $20 per 50 pound sack), straw for nesting material, wood shavings for soaking up urine and feces (unless the cages are lifted well off the ground), and food supplements if you like. As far as your time commitment, it doesn’t take long to feed and check waters once a day, clean the manure up once a week, do the breeding, and cart them off to the market. It’s wise to take each rabbit out of the cage at least once a month and give it a thorough examination, just to make sure it is healthy.

Another source of profit that may be unexpected is the manure. Rabbit manure is excellent to use straight on your garden. It doesn’t need to age like chicken manure and most others and, because it is in small, dry pellets, it’s easy to work with. You may even be able to sell it.

For more information on raising rabbits for profit, check out Rabbit Production by Peter R. Cheeke and Raising Rabbits Successfully by Bob Bennett.

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Cookies in a jar

By Sharon Palmer, RD

Cookies in a jar are easy to make and make great gifts.
Cookies in a jar are easy to
make and make great gifts.

Gourmet country cookie mixes are quite popular these days, fetching upwards of $15 in catalogs and gift shops. These are hot sellers because there’s not a soul on this planet who wouldn’t love to curl up to a homemade batch of cookies on a winter evening. Why not make your own cookies in a jar for gift giving this holiday season?

Cookies in a jar general instructions:

*For each batch, start with a clean quart-size canning jar, canning lid, and seal.

*When layering ingredients in jar, spoon them in carefully so as not to disrupt the previous layer.

Christian and Nicholas mix up a batch of cookies in a jar.
Christian and Nicholas mix up
a batch of cookies in a jar.

*Slightly pack each layer, so that there is a definite line of demarcation for each layer. The top layer may need to be decreased or increased slightly, so that the layer comes all the way to the top where the seal will fit directly on top.

*Select decorative fabric and cut out a 6” diameter circle, using pinking shears if desired.

*Center the fabric over canning seal, and place canning lid on top of the fabric and seal.

*Select coordinating ribbon, raffia, or trim (½ yard).

A finished batch of country oatmeal cookies
A finished batch of
country oatmeal cookies

*Hand write or print on computer in desired font the cookie instructions on coordinating paper. Trim with paper trimmers and decorate with stickers if desired. Instruction sheet should be approximately 2 x 4” in size.

*Punch hole in top left comer of instruction sheet.

*When jar is ready, tightly screw on the seal/fabric/lid and tie ribbon around the lid tightly.

*Attach the instructions through the punch hole and make a decorative bow.

Ranger cookies in a jar

Layer the following ingredients in the glass jar in this order:

½ c. white sugar
½ c. brown sugar
1 c. rolled oats
½ c. rice krispies cereal
1 c. all purpose flour
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. salt
¼ c. coconut
½ c. chocolate chips

Make an instruction sheet as follows:

Ranger cookies

Preheat oven to 350° F. In a medium bowl, cream together ½ c. margarine, 1 egg, and 1 tsp. vanilla. Add the entire contents of the jar and mix until combined. Drop by heaping teaspoon on ungreased cookie sheet, and flatten with fork. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until lightly golden.

Rainbow chip cookies in a jar

Layer the following ingredients in a clean glass jar in this order:

½ c. sugar
½ c. brown sugar
2 c. all purpose flour
½ tsp. salt
¾ tsp. baking soda
1/3 c. peanuts
¾ c. mini colored baking chips

Make an instruction sheet as follows:

Rainbow chip cookies

Preheat oven to 350° F. In a medium bowl, cream ¾ c. margarine, 2 eggs, and 1 tsp. vanilla. Add entire contents of jar and mix well. Drop by heaping teaspoonfuls on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 10-12 minutes until lightly golden.

Chocolate chip walnut cookies in a jar

Layer the following ingredients in the glass jar in this order:

½ c. sugar
½ c. brown sugar
2 c. all purpose flour
½ tsp. salt
¾ tsp. baking soda
½ c. chopped walnuts
¾ c. chocolate chips

Make an instruction sheet as follows:

Chocolate chip walnut cookies

Preheat oven to 350° F. In a medium bowl, cream ¾ c. margarine, 2 eggs, and 1 tsp. vanilla. Add entire contents of jar and mix until combined. Drop by heaping teaspoonfulls on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 10-12 minutes.

Country oatmeal cookies in a jar

Layer the following ingredients in the glass jar in this order:

½ c. sugar
½ c. brown sugar
1 c. rolled oats
1 c. all purpose flour
¼ tsp. salt
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. cinnamon
1 c. raisins

Make an instruction sheet as follows:

Country oatmeal cookies

Preheat oven to 350° F. In a medium bowl, cream ½ c. margarine, 1 egg, and 1 tsp. vanilla. Add entire contents of jar and mix until combined. Drop by heaping teaspoonfuls on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 12-15 minutes until lightly golden.

(Sharon Palmer is a registered dietitian in Pasadena, California.)

Read More by Sharon Palmer, RD

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The wonderful world of lavender

By Sharon Palmer, RD

I briefly brush past my favorite lavender bush and my skirt is fragranced for the entire day. Every time the fabric rustles, the aroma wafts up to remind me of purple rows of lavender under a cloudless Provencal sky, chunky handmade bars of lavender soap, lavender sachets wrapped in colorful fabric scraps, and earthenware pots of herbs blended with lavender flowers for sale at a French open-air market.

After finding lavender at an herb farm in Paso Robles, California, I quickly made a place of honor for it in my garden. But it grew so stout, always searching out a better view of the sun, crowding out every tender plant in its path. It supplied me with lavender bundles as thick as my arm, and friends carried home clippings on each visit. It seemed the more I cut it, the happier my lavender was, as if grateful for a haircut. The lavender lured bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds to my garden, boosting my fruit tree’s harvest, thanks to the extra pollinators in my garden.

Lavender is finding popularity on this side of the globe, even though it has its roots in Europe. It is cultivated extensively in England, France, and Italy. English lavender (lavandula vera) is considered the most aromatic variety. The name is derived from the Latin, meaning ‘to wash’, since Lavender was a favorite additive in Greek and Roman’s baths. It has been used throughout history for countless purposes, from love potions to anti-flatulence aid.

Lavender is a perennial that grows into a branching shrub. Selection of a sunny, well-drained spot with ample room for growth is essential. The stems become woody in nature and the foliage is silvery. The small purple flowers grow in a whorl pattern. The entire plant is aromatic, which may be observed when it is cut, but the primary source of aromatic oil is in the flowers. The plant has a tendency to get leggy, and should be trimmed in early spring.

Lavender flowers may be collected before the last flower opens on the stalk. These may be hung upside down in bundles in a shady, airy location until completely dry, then stored in airtight containers for later use in sachets, potpourri, or teas.

Lavender has such a variety of functions, that it’s difficult to get enough of this aromatic plant. Not only is it exquisite in home décor or fragrance, but it has health benefits as well. A few drops of lavender oil in the bath go a long way to fighting stress and fatigue. Some even swear that rubbing Lavender water or oil on the temples helps ease the pain of headaches. It’s fragrance has even been used to fend off unwanted insects. Many have found lavender tea a soother for nerves, pain, exhaustion, and depression. And for the icing on the gateau, the French have been cooking with lavender for years. It adds a fragrant, herbal quality to many dishes.

Some precaution must be taken in the use of lavender. No more than 3 cups of lavender tea per day is recommended, and concentrated lavender oil should not be taken internally. Rarely skin irritations have developed due to allergic reaction after topical application of lavender oil. As with any herbal preparation, it is suggested that you consult your physician to ensure that it does not interfere with other medications or treatments for existing health conditions.
Lavender recipes

Lavender tea

This soothing tea may cut the stress of a long day, or calm a pounding headache.

1 tsp. dried lavender flowers
1 cup boiling water

Place dried lavender flowers in tea strainer. Steep in hot water for 10 minutes. May be flavored with honey or lemon as desired.

Herbes de Provence

Throughout France, little corked pots of herbs may be found jauntily scribbled with, ‘Herbes de Provence’. This herbal mixture may be used with salads, vegetables, fish, poultry, pasta, and sauce. It has become a multi-purpose seasoning in my cabinet.

2 Tbsp. dried basil leaves, crushed
1 Tbsp. dried fennel seeds
1 Tbsp. dried lavender flowers, crumbled
2 Tbsp. dried marjoram, crushed
2 Tbsp. dried rosemary, crushed
1 Tbsp. dried sage, crushed
1 Tbsp. dried savory, crushed
2 Tbsp. dried thyme, crushed

Toss together lightly to mix. Place in airtight jar. May last for several months.

Yield: 3/4 cup

Tuna Steak a la Provencale

In the fall and winter, tuna is caught off the coast of Southern France and the French thoroughly enjoy incorporating it into their cuisine.

4 - 6 oz. tuna steaks
1 lemon, squeezed for fresh lemon juice
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 Tbsp. Herbes de Provence
1 Tbsp. parsley, freshly minced
2 Tbsp. capers
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
4 Tbsp. olive oil

Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and Herbes de Provence. Place tuna steaks in dish and pour over olive oil mixture as marinade. Chill for at least 2 hours. Drain the steaks. The tuna steaks may be grilled over a barbeque or sautéed with additional olive oil over medium heat until tender. In another pan, sauté parsley, capers, onion, and garlic in additional olive oil until tender. To serve, place cooked tuna steaks on serving dish and top with onion, caper sauce. Garnish with additional fresh parsley.

Yield: 4 servings

Provencal garlic bread

This easy recipe may soon replace the standard garlic bread in your household.

1 loaf, fresh French bread, sliced thickly
1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
1 Tbsp. Herbes de Provence
1 garlic clove, minced

Fold Herbes and garlic into softened butter. Generously coat each slice of French bread with the Provencal butter. Place the slices on a large baking sheet and place under broiler in oven for 10 minutes until golden brown. Serve immediately. Yield: 12 slices

Almond, Lemon and Lavender Biscotti

This is an interesting accompaniment with your next cup of cappuccino.

2 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 Tbsp. grated lemon peel
1 tsp. dried lavender flowers, crushed
1-1/4 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups flour
1 cup almonds, coarsely chopped
additional sugar

Preheat oven to 350 F. In a large bowl, combine eggs, 3/4 c sugar, oil, lemon peel, lavender, baking powder, vanilla, and salt. Blend. Add the flour, and chopped almonds and stir to make a dough. Knead dough on a floured surface about 10 times. Divide the dough in half. Make each half into a log about 2 inches in diameter. Place the logs on an ungreased baking sheet. Sprinkle them with additional sugar. Bake until firm, about 30 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes, but leave the oven on. Carefully transfer the logs to a cutting board. Cut crosswise with a serrated knife into 1/2-inch thick slices. Place with cut side down on baking sheet. Return to the oven and bake until lightly browned, approximately 20 minutes. Yield: Approximately 3 dozen.

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Dandelion recipes

By Tom and Joanne O’Toole

For dandelion gourmets there are many ways to prepare this amazing weed, and to include it in soups, salads, main courses, desserts, and wine.

Here are a few recipes you might want to try.
Dandelion soup

2 quarts dandelion greens, loosely packed
2 quarts chicken soup
1 lb. mixed ground beef, veal, and pork
1 egg
2 Tbsp. bread crumbs
2 Tbsp. minced parsley
1 Tbsp. minced onions (extra fine)
1/4 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. seasoned pepper
Dash nutmeg
3 Tbsp. grated parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp. sour cream

Bring chicken soup to a boil. Add dandelion. Cook gently. If desired, ½ cup rice or 1 cup fine egg noodles can be added. Make very tiny meatballs out of remaining ingredients. When greens are tender, add meatballs and cook gently 10 minutes or until meatballs are thoroughly cooked. Serve hot with Italian or French bread.
Dandelion salad with eggs

2 quarts cleaned dandelion (cut into ½-inch pieces)
1/2 medium-sized onion, minced very fine
oil (olive or as desired)
vinegar (wine or as desired)
(Proportion of oil to vinegar is 3:1)

Season with ½ tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. garlic salt. Dry the cleaned dandelion carefully. Mix all of the ingredients together gently. Then taste and add more seasonings as needed.

Boil enough hard boiled eggs to allow at least 2 per person. Eggs may be sliced into the salad. However, many prefer to serve the eggs separately, letting each person help himself.
Italian dandelion casserole

1 lb. ground beef (or beef and pork mixed)
1 cup bread crumbs
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley
2 Tbsp. finely chopped onion
1 tsp. salt
1 egg
1/4 cup milk
6-8 cups dandelion greens
1 15 oz. can tomatoes, drained
1 cup chicken stock or bouillon
salt and pepper to taste

Mix together meat, bread crumbs, parsley, onion, salt, egg, and milk. Form 40 to 45 small meatballs about 1 inch in diameter. Brown them in oil. Drain and set aside. Wash dandelion greens. In a buttered casserole alternate layers of dandelions, browned meatballs, and tomatoes. Add the chicken stock or bouillon. Season with salt and pepper and simmer 20-30 minutes. Yields 6-8 servings. When serving the casserole, have hot pepper flakes and Parmesan cheese available on the table.

Variations:

1. Add a layer of onions.

2. Season the meatballs with garlic salt or add finely chopped garlic to the casserole.

3. Add other herbs—oregano, basil, or marjoram.
Dandelion wine

1 gallon flower heads
3 lbs. sugar
1 ounce yeast
1 gallon water
2 lemons

Remove petals by gathering them between the fingers while holding the base of the flower head. Put petals in the fermenting vessel and pour on three quarts of boiling water. Leave to soak for seven days, well covered. Stir daily and cover again at once. Strain and wring out fairly tightly and return the liquor to the fermenting vessel. Boil half the sugar in a pint of water and when cool add to the liquor, then add the yeast and the juice of two lemons.

Cover as directed and ferment for seven days. Then pour carefully into a gallon jar, leaving as much deposit behind as you can. Boil the rest of the sugar in the remaining pint of water and when cool add to the rest. Cover as directed or fit fermentation lock and leave until all fermentation has ceased.

For more ways to satisfy your palate, you can purchase Dandelion and Regional Favorites Recipe Book, with 16 recipes for dandelion specialties, from the Greater Vineland Chamber of Commerce for $4.50. Write to 18 North East Avenue, P.0. Box 489, Vineland, New Jersey 08360-0489. (800) 309-0019.

You can make
your own fertilizers

By Christopher and Dolores Lynn Nyerges

For some people, home gardening is an expensive pursuit, which seems a bit backward to us. At one time, people gardened because home-grown produce was far better and cheaper than anything from the store. And every farmer some 50+ years ago—whether a farmer of large acreages or an urban backyard farmer, knew that to produce healthy plants, you had to improve the soil. If the soil is weak, your plants will be weak and subject to insect infestation.

Seaweed

There are many low-cost methods for making your own fertilizer. One of the easiest and best is manufactured from seaweed.

We learned a lot about the beneficial properties of seaweed from Ernest Hogeboom, who used to be a professional gardener in the Pasadena, California, area. Hogeboom would collect several plastic trash bags of kelp from areas along the Pacific Coast. He would empty the kelp into a 55-gallon drum, fill it with water, and then cover it. As the seaweed began to decompose, the water would turn brown. Within about two months, the seaweed was fully decomposed. This liquid was used as a concentrate, which Hogeboom would then dilute with water before spraying it on or pouring it around his customers’ plants.

We’ve used this for our own garden service clients, with the addition of fish emulsion. Plants sprayed with this mixture seem more insect repellent, and generally show some renewed growth. The only pitfall is the fishy, oceany odor that is detectable for a day or two after the application.

The authors with their earthworm compost pit, to which their rabbits contribute by direct deposit. (Photo by Raul Castellano.) The authors with their earthworm compost pit, to which their rabbits contribute by direct deposit. (Photo by Raul Castellano.)

Seaweed is a rich source of potassium —up to 12%. Though seaweed contains many trace elements, it is relatively poor in nitrogen and phosphate, which is why the addition of fish emulsion makes a nearly perfect fertilizer. Also, rather than use the heavy and bulky 55-gallon drum that Hogeboom used, we purchased a plastic trash can at a building supply store for under $10. This has served us quite well.

Earthworm compost

Another of the easiest fertilizers to make comes from an earthworm compost pit. You add kitchen scraps, grass clippings, leaves, etc. into the pit, and as it is processed by the earthworms, you soon have a rich, black garden amendment. Adding compost in volumes of about 10% into your garden is generally all that is needed to increase the health and insect repellency of your trees, vegetables, and other garden plants.

Though composting is the epitome of simplicity, there are a broad variety of containers that you can make or buy. Sometimes decomposition does not occur properly if you have used too much of one ingredient. For this reason, we suggest you research composting in a good book, such as Rodale’s Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening. BHM has had some good articles on the subject, too.

Rabbit droppings

When it comes to animal fertilizers, the best readily-available fertilizer is rabbit droppings. Rabbit droppings have the highest nitrogen content of any of the commonly available barnyard manures, such as cow, horse, pig, etc. Rabbit droppings are small, compact, and nearly odorless. One organic gardener described them as “miniature, time-released, fertilizer capsules.” If you raise rabbits, or know someone who does, you’ll have a source of one of nature’s best natural fertilizers.

We have our rabbit friends living atop our earthworm compost pit. Rabbit droppings can also be called “earthworm caviar.”

The fertilizer provided by our earthworm compost pit is about the best you could find anywhere, and it’s “free.”

Don’t discard those egg shells...

If you’re in the habit of buying all sorts of liquid fertilizers and other commercial treatments for your garden, you may be happy to learn that at least two commonly discarded kitchen scraps are ideal for many of your garden plants.

You’ve heard of “liming” the garden and lawn, right? Most people buy a bag of lime (calcium carbonate) every few years and sprinkle it throughout the garden. Were you aware that eggshells are 93% calcium carbonate?

Otis the pot-bellied pig lives in the authors’ yard. A pig in the yard is a great source of fertilizer. Otis the pot-bellied pig lives in the authors’ yard. A pig in the yard is a great source of fertilizer.

In addition to the calcium, the eggshells contain about 1% nitrogen, about a half-percent phosphoric acid, and other trace elements that make them a practical fertilizer. Calcium is an essential plant nutrient which plays a fundamental part in cell manufacture and growth. Most roots must have some calcium at the growing tips. Plant growth removes large quantities of calcium from the soil, and calcium must be replenished, so this is an ideal way to recycle your eggshells.

We save our eggshells in a pan in our oven. The pilot light temperature slowly dries them out. Then we crush them by hand and powder them in the blender. The powdered eggshells are then placed around fruit trees, in potted plants and roses, and broadcast throughout the vegetable garden.

You can also solve your snail problems with the help of recycled eggshells. Instead of powdering the shells, use them at the hand-crushed stage, with plenty of rough, sharp edges. Scatter the crushed shells in circles around those plants that the snails are eating. Since the shells cause discomfort to the snails, they nearly always retreat and do not cross the shell barriers.

(Did you know that our California brown snails are actually escaped escargot? One method of “control” is simply to eat them—but that’s another story.)

...or those coffee grounds

Another commonly discarded kitchen item is coffee grounds. Coffee grounds can be particularly useful in the garden, or, at the very least, added to your compost pile.

nyerges44_3.jpg - 17222 Bytes Dolores and Christopher scatter coffee grounds and crushed egg shells under their roses.

Used coffee grounds contain about two percent nitrogen, about a third of a percent of phosphoric acid, and varying amounts of potash (generally less than one percent). Analysis of coffee grounds shows that they contain many minerals, including trace minerals, carbohydrates, sugars, some vitamins, and some caffeine. They are particularly useful on those plants for which you would purchase and apply an “acid food,” such as blueberries, evergreens, azaleas, roses, camellias, avocados, and certain fruit trees.

We dry our coffee grounds in the oven, too. Then we scatter them lightly, as a mulch, around those plants which we feel would benefit from them. We don’t scatter them thickly when they are wet, because the coffee grounds have a tendency to get moldy.

The growth of plants that like or need lime (which we can provide with eggshells) can be stimulated by adding a mixture of ground-up eggshells and dried coffee grounds.

Smile the next time you drink your morning cup of coffee and eat your breakfast of eggs, since the by-products of your meal are ideal for your urban garden, and need no longer be “kitchen waste products.”

(Dolores and Christopher Nyerges teach classes in organic gardening and have authored several books. A newsletter featuring their activities is available from School of Self-Reliance, Box 41834, Eagle Rock, CA 90041. The newsletter can also be viewed on-line at http://www.self-reliance.net.)

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/nyerges44.html

Clover
From livestock forage to medicinal tea,
this humble plant is one of nature’s best gifts

By Eugene Mitchell

Whether young or old, lying in the grass and searching for four-leafed clovers is timeless fun. Sometimes they’re so elusive, like the leprechaun, it seems they don’t exist. CloverWe can find the more common leaves-of-three, though, nearly anyplace we look: In yards, pastures, forest meadows, and of course, there’s the Irish Shamrock chosen by St. Patrick as a symbol of the Trinity. Clover is even the state flower of Vermont. We see it growing along roadsides, in the clover-leaf-shaped entrances and exits of interstate highways, and it pops up in music, too:

I’m looking over a four leaf clover that I overlooked before.

Even if we can’t find a four-leaf clover or a leprechaun, we’re still lucky. Clover is one of nature’s best gifts to life on earth, a boon for humans, animals, plants, even dirt, and through time, wise people have not overlooked this amazing legume, Clover (Trifolium).

All legumes, like clover, are able to take free nitrogen from the air to fix in nodules on their roots, called “nitrogen fixing.” This is the way legumes, such as clover, provide themselves with the nitrogen they need to grow. The excess is left in the soil in a form that is much easier utilized than chemical fertilizers and in greater quantities than fertilizers or manures. True organic farming and gardening is nearly impossible without legumes in the crop rotation. Since clovers rate as some of the highest nitrogen-fixing plants, second only to alfalfa, clover is excellent for conditioning soil.
Soil conditioner

Used as a winter cover crop, clover replenishes the soil’s nitrogen, and its roots bring micro-nutrients closer to the surface. Tilled or plowed under in the spring as a green manure, clover returns phosphorus and potassium to the soil. In warmer regions with longer growing seasons, it’s possible to plant clover early in the spring, even a couple of weeks before the last frost, to condition soil for summer planting. With either fall or spring planting, it’s excellent in a rotation with heavy nitrogen feeders like corn or tomatoes. If the variety of clover grown is large and the growth thick, it may be necessary to cut the clover before turning it under.

A groundhog eating red clover. Groundhogs, or gophers, are just one of many wild animals that eat clover.
A groundhog eating red clover. Groundhogs, or gophers, are just one of many wild animals that eat clover.

Clover leaves helps prevent erosion during heavy rains by catching the raindrops, slowing them, and keeping them from pelting the dirt. The rain drips from the leaves or drains down the stalks, giving the soil time to absorb the water.

Most of us are familiar with white Dutch clover (T. repens) that grows so readily in yards with its recognizable three leaves. We also have, in addition to white clover, red (T. pratense), crimson (T. incarnatum), hop (T. aureum), Alsike (T. hybridum), Ladino (T. repens forma lodigense), and many other varieties. Some people wonder if crimson and red clover are the same, but they’re not. If their names don’t cause enough confusion, they also look alike and can easily be mistaken as the same plant. Once you see their differences, though, it’s easy to identify them, even when they’re not side-by-side.

Under good conditions, they both grow to similar heights, the red a little taller. Red’s green leaflets have a lighter green “V” in the middle, like a chevron. The flower is light red, a magenta hue, sometimes tending to a light purple. Crimson’s green leaflets are notched, and the flower is elongated, conical shaped, and is a dark red color.

Individual varieties of clover are adapted to the various climates and soil conditions in different regions of the country. Red clover likes plenty of water but not extremes of temperature.
White Dutch clover is one of the clovers regularly used in pasture mixes. It is a wide-growing volunteer.
White Dutch clover is one of the clovers regularly used in pasture mixes. It is a wide-growing volunteer.
Alsike clover is adapted for soil with poor drainage and fertility and will thrive in cool climates. Alsike is used mostly as a hay crop and is more nutritious than red clover, but yields less hay. In the Northeast, Ladino, a giant version of white clover, is used as forage and is appreciated because of its robust nitrogen fixing and its “creep.” Ladino is regularly grown in the Southeast, too.
Forage for livestock

Optimally, livestock forage should provide the nutrients stock need without additional feed, and for that, legumes are the best. Clovers, along with alfalfa and other legumes, provide protein, fiber, calcium, vitamins A and D, more per acre than any other forage. In the southeastern United States, where I live, clovers thrive in spring, then die off in the hot summer. The grasses sown in pasture mixes, such as fescue and orchard grass, take over until the cooler fall when the clovers begin to grow back.

It’s best to graze clover when the leaves are young, before it makes a flower. It’s most nutritious then. It’s also best as a green manure during this pre-flower stage.

One ounce each of Ladino, white Dutch, red, and crimson clover seeds. The differences in seed sizes and colors are shown with a one-foot ruler for reference.
One ounce each of Ladino, white Dutch, red, and crimson clover seeds. The differences in seed sizes and colors are shown with a one-foot ruler for reference.

Ladino is grown across the U.S. and Canada, and it makes a large amount of forage with its considerable size. It can last a long time, if managed well, and because of its creep, it’s possible to sow an acre with just a pound or two of seeds. For a thicker crop during its first growing season, you can plant up to six pounds per acre.

Care must be taken when grazing cattle on clover alone. If stock come from a poorer pasture directly onto a rich clover field, there is the risk of bloat, and bloat can be fatal to cattle.

For questions about your specific area, ask the folks at your local feed store or your local agricultural extension agent.

Grouse, partridge, and quail eat the foliage of clover, depending on what area of the U.S. you’re in. Small mammals, such as groundhogs, cottontails, marmots, and others, also eat clover. I live on an old farmstead in northeast Georgia with clovers in the pasture mix, and I regularly see whitetails and groundhogs browsing the edges of the field, as well as wild turkeys and rabbits. Seed companies, like Pennington, offer seed mixes to plant as food plots for wildlife, some of which contain clovers as an integral part of the mix. Some mixes, notably those for whitetail deer, are completely clovers. You can find products such as these at a feed or farm supply store.
Honey

Closeup of red clover (T. pratense). The round shape and magenta hue, as well as the light green V on its leaflet, are visible.
Closeup of red clover (T. pratense). The round shape and magenta hue, as well as the light green V on its leaflet, are visible.

Clover is a strong attraction for honeybees, also. Clover, as a single source, accounts for more honey than any other source in the United States. It is a light, amber honey that sweetens without overwhelming. In the U.S., sweet and white clover account for the most honey produced.

For humans, commercially grown clover sprouts are available in supermarkets and health food stores. They fill salad bowls with delicious crunch and taste, and they’re good just by themselves as a snack. They contain a variety of nutrients, such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, chromium, vitamin C, thiamin and niacin, and are naturally low in carbohydrates. When sprouting clover or any other seed for the table, use only true organic, untreated, seeds.

Traditional sources tell us that, while mature clover leaves are edible, they can cause bloat in humans, too, unless soaked for several hours in salt water or boiled for 10 minutes or so.

Through time, clover has been used for a variety of medicinal purposes. Native Americans used white clover leaf tea for colds and fevers, and Europeans, who introduced clover to America, used clover flower tea for arthritis and gout. Traditionally, red clover flower tea has been recommended for breast cancer, prostate cancer, as a blood purifier, an anti-coagulant, a mild sedative, a spasmodic, for asthma, and as an externally applied treatment for skin sores and cancers. It is an alterative, which means that it changes the conditions of the tissues, increasing blood flow and cleansing the blood. It is suggested as a spring tonic for those blood purifying and detoxifying qualities.

Soil conditioning

Any clover Trifolium is a good soil conditioner, but some are better than others. Properly managed clovers with the highest nitrogen fixing abilities per acre, highest to lowest, are: Ladino, Alsike, Sweet, Red, White.

All fix over 100 pounds, with Ladino fixing 170 pounds or more. Crimson will fix between 90 and 100 pounds. White clover in a mowed yard is always small, of course, but it can grow over a foot in a field, while the others in the list can grow two feet or more.

A partial list of widely grown clovers and poundage to sow per acre: Ladino 1-6; Crimson 20-25; Red 10-15; White 6-8.

Clover can be sown, generally, in the fall a month or so before the first frost, or after the last frost in spring. In regions with mild winters, it can be sown a few weeks before the last frost in spring to get an early start on soil conditioning for summer rotation. If you have a big plot, you might want to use a seed spreader. If not, just broadcast by hand. After sowing, cover the seeds with about ½’’ of soil and pack the soil lightly. Planting before a rain shower is a good idea, but if a rain shower isn’t wandering by, a good watering by hand will help. Dampen the soil enough to wet it, but not enough to make it muddy.

Red clover is being examined by today’s medical science as possible treatment for pre- and post-menopausal symptoms. Researchers have found that red clover contains isoflavones, or phytoestrogens. Phytoestrogens are plant-based compounds that exhibit modest estrogenic and anti-estrogen qualities, depending on pre-existing estrogen levels. Tests are inconclusive and sometimes contradictory, but experimentation continues.

Clover is abundant in the wild or easily grown by anyone. It gives benefits to the entire strata of life on earth. We are all, everyone and everything, lucky to have such a humble and generous charm as clover.
Health

Red clover is commercially available dried, in capsules, tablets, and tinctures. Two commercially available products specifically for women are Promensil and Rimostil.

As with harvesting any wild food, when cutting red clover flowers for tea, use common sense, and cut those flowers you know to be clean of contaminants not those by a roadway, or near a trash can, or that have been sprayed with any chemicals, and don’t cut those in pastures with grazing stock. Gently rinse them. I wrap them in cheesecloth and hang them in a shady place out of the rain, where wind circulates. Depending on the weather, they dry in a few weeks. You can dry them inside on a flat sheet, in a commercially available dryer, or an oven, but I prefer to let the air dry them.

After they have dried, store them in an airtight glass jar or plastic bag. After a few days, if there is moisture showing at the top of the jar or bag, they’re not dry enough. Take them out and dry them a bit longer. My experience is that red clover flowers don’t crumble when dry, but will fall apart if you rub them between your fingers. Also, they’ll feel a little soft, but not brittle.

Clover tea is brewed just like any other tea. Don’t boil the dried flowers; instead pour boiling water over a heaping tablespoon or two of flowers, and let them steep for about 10 minutes. Drink the tea hot or iced, and of course, you can sweeten it with a dollop of clover honey. For health, the recommended dosage is three cups a day.

Clover leaf tea is light with a delicate taste, and not astringent.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/mccarthy94.html

Self-reliance for women
Surviving a biochemical attack

By Kelly McCarthy

Three and a half years ago, on the morning of September 11th to be exact, I was just ending a White House tour with my husband, children, and four friends from overseas. We were evacuated, along with all White House staff, into Lafayette Square in central DC. The security guards who had been clad in suits on our arrival were now wearing Kevlar, and there were men with SAMs on the roof. We were being shouted at, “This is not a drill. Clear the area.” We drove home past the smoking Pentagon.

We all changed that day. Suddenly we began to look at things differently. I know I did. Is that a briefcase or a bomb? Would the kids know where to go if I couldn’t get to them? What would I do if a biochem cloud were coming my way? What is a hemorrhagic fever? How do I purify ground water? Does powdered milk go bad?

At home I started to prepare for whatever life could throw at me, whether it’s a terrorist attack, freak weather incident, fire, mugging, or an outbreak of disease. I don’t live in the backwoods. I’m guessing that people out in the countryside are better prepared than we suburbanites. After all, if you’re following Jackie Clay you must have canned fruit and veggies out the wazoo! You’re probably all tooled up with big guns, solar power, artesian wells, and more wood than you can shake a stick at. Well, where I live, in Northern Virginia, the neighborhood would pretty much grind to a halt if Trader Joe’s shut down.

So I set out to make alternative arrangements in case the world gets complicated, or just goes to hell. And why Self-Reliance for Women? Because women think differently, that’s why. We’re big on “what if?” questions. We like to be prepared. We like to have back-up plans. And we’re more than likely to be the ones that have to organize food, sanitation, and morale during an emergency. I want to know I’ll have enough calories stored away to cope with a super volcano erupting, enough fuel options to cook food in a power outage, alternative solutions for water purification, many ways to light and warm my home—whatever happens.

As I write this, a review of the government’s first response plans have just been judged woefully inadequate. Well, duh! Did we really think they’d get it right? Just look at the flu vaccine fandango. If they can’t get enough shots out into the community to protect our old and young folk against a predictable annual problem, how good will they be when there’s a real emergency?

So, since 2001 I have been collecting all sorts of information that might help me to protect my family and friends in an emergency. As I live 12 miles downwind of the Capitol, one of my big concerns is a biological terrorist attack.

A bioterrorist attack

Bioterrorism is the intentional use of biological agents, or germs, to cause illness. Biological agents include viruses, bacteria, fungi, and toxins from living organisms that have illness-producing effects on people, plants, or livestock. Toxins are poisons produced by living organisms and their synthetic equivalents. The effects of a biological agent disseminated in a public place may not be known immediately because of the delay between exposure and onset of illness. Those most likely to identify the symptoms of such attacks are the primary care physicians. School nurses or teachers may be the first to detect an illness from a biological attack in children. Among the biological agents of greatest concern are: anthrax, smallpox, plague, and botulism. A biological agent may be introduced to the system through the skin, or by ingestion or inhalation.

It makes no sense to me that we aren’t all offered an inoculation against smallpox. I for one would opt to have it. It is a terrible disease, with a 20-30% fatality rate, that scars and blinds its victims. It is highly contagious and we all know that vials of a lethal strain went missing with the break-up of the Soviet Union. How long before it ends up in terrorist hands—if it isn’t there already? Vaccination takes a couple of seconds to perform (I know, I’ve had two). It’s a slightly uncomfortable scratch, and its effects last ten years. A 1968 study conducted in the United States involving over 14 million vaccinated people resulted in just nine deaths from all age groups and levels of immunity. Yet family doctors are not allowed near the government’s stockpile of vaccine. Surely, if most of the nation were vaccinated, the potential threat from releasing smallpox into our population would become irrelevant?

And remember, all the powers of Homeland Security couldn’t track down the Capitol Hill anthrax mailer. Three years later and we’re still waiting for an arrest. And this was finely milled, highly distinctive pharmaceutical grade anthrax produced in a place where people require high-level clearance—not some naturally occurring anthrax that came in from a field.

My advice: Stay home. Don’t touch your mail or newspapers. Wait it out. Avoid contact with other people and things they may have touched. During any type of bio attack, everyone should wash their hands frequently; avoid close proximity to an infected (or potentially infected) person. Isolate potentially exposed family members. If one member absolutely has to come and go, they should live separately from the others. Make sure you are thorough with cleansing; bleach surfaces, sinks, taps, toilets, etc. Boil-wash clothing that an infected person may have touched in disinfectant/bleach and soap. Avoid touching your eyes. These basic hygiene practices will greatly increase your chances of avoiding infection. Make sure you have weeks of supplies—not days, as FEMA suggests. I recommend having at least a month’s supply of essentials. I always aim for at least two months. I’ll share my list of supplies and how to calculate the basic requirements that your family would need to survive in a later column.

Some biochem weapons are spread through human contact. Remember to drain standing water as it attracts mosquitoes, which can be disease carriers. Keep your house clean so that it doesn’t attract disease-infested flies, rats, and other creatures. You may even have to bury your dead. This isn’t as straightforward as you’d imagine, so I hope to cover this some other time.

Consider your own psychological state. Do not underestimate this. To endure a major biological attack you may have to cope with:

* The death of family members and close family friends.

* The disappearance of reassuring and familiar rituals and people. No store visits, maybe no TV or radio, certainly very different TV and radio. No sport to play or watch, no daily papers, customers or deliveries, or group worship.

In crisis situations, interestingly enough, it often seems that those who survive are those who don’t give in to despair. In order to prepare yourself psychologically for any type of disaster, there are several steps you can take:

* Fear and despair are contagious; discuss the impact of a possible attack (calmly) with your family. Do not panic them, just present the situation as realistically as possible and get them involved with possible solutions. Advance planning solidarity and mutual aims will help you to work as a unit.

* Put together two comprehensive emergency packs. One in case of evacuation, the other for “sheltering in place.”

* In your emergency pack include something diverting such as a game (a set of cards, a board game). No matter how dire the situation, human beings need to be able to switch off occasionally.

Fitness

It might seem obvious, but the people most likely to survive a bio attack are those who are fit and healthy in the first place. If you have no health regime, ignore exercise, smoke and drink excessively and are either significantly over or under weight, then you are more likely to become a victim of a deliberately induced contagion. Even if you suffer from a medical condition such as diabetes, or asthma, the fitter you are the more likely you are to survive.

Communications

Keeping in touch with the outside world will be important. We are used to 24/7 news. However, most modern forms of communication rely on a regular power supply, which cannot be guaranteed in an emergency. An exception is the clockwork radio, now used widely all over the world where power supplies are erratic or absent.

Sources

Clockwork radio
http://windupradio.com/trevor.htm

SideWinder charger
http://store.sundancesolar.com/sicephch.html
http://www.cgets.com/item—Sidewinder-Cell-Phone-Charger—sidewinder

Potomac Emergency Escape Mask
http://tricon-env.com/potomac.htm
http://www.ioffer.com/i/Potomac-Emergency-Escape-Mask-3625259

For cell phones, there is a device that makes it possible for you to recharge your cell battery without main power. Called the SideWinder, you attach it to your phone via a cord that comes with it, and turn the crank, much like you would on an old-fashioned pencil sharpener. Two minutes of cranking creates about six minutes of talk time and significantly more time in standby minutes. If the SideWinder is cranked without being attached to a phone, it produces a small, white light, bright enough to read by. Turn the crank for 30 seconds and you will get five minutes of light. It costs around $25 and it’s guaranteed for life.

As for TV viewing, if the TV networks are broadcasting you might not get to see them if your signal comes in via satellite or cable. Consider a portable battery TV such as fans use at football games, or an AC/DC TV with a “rabbit ears” aerial that plugs into the cigarette lighter in your car. Relatively cheap and easy to run, these devices have proved their worth and it might be an idea to invest in one.

Backwoods bioterror

Maybe you didn’t know it but deer mice, cotton and rice rats and white-footed mice carry the potentially deadly Hantavirus. This causes a disease known as Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS), a very dangerous hemorrhagic fever. Although it is on the list of potential biochemical weapons, it is also becoming a reality in barns across America. Victims become infected by inhaling infected mice droppings, urine, or saliva in dust/aerosol form, often when sweeping or moving hay around. It is not spread through humans. Symptoms can take up to five weeks to appear and include a fever, muscle aches, nausea, and vomiting.

After these initial flu-like symptoms, victims experience shortness of breath and have coughing fits. The final stages of HPS disease include internal bleeding and breathing failure. Over 50% of reported cases of HPS have resulted in death. Although there aren’t many cases, it’s wise to keep your homestead rodent-free, as this disease appears to be on the increase in the US. Hantavirus can be killed by bleach, household disinfectant and UV rays, but you must be careful not to stir up the dust. The virus can live for two to three days at normal room temperature. If you have been exposed to rodent infestations and display any symptoms described above, see your doctor immediately.

Of course the big problem with biological threats, whether naturally occurring or from terrorists, is that either you are unaware a substance is being dispersed or you have very little time to react to it. However, there is a practical aid now available. It is a mask, small enough to fit easily inside a purse or briefcase and can be put on in six seconds. It filters out smoke and its related gases, tear gas as well as biological and chemical agents including anthrax, smallpox, sarin and cyanide. It’s called the Potomac Emergency Escape Mask. At around $125 it’s the perfect accessory for alert commuters in at-risk cities—and people with mice in the barn.

I hope in future columns I’m able to bring you some new ideas and solutions for dealing with emergencies. I also hope to share some of the things I do to teach myself how to deal with day-to-day threats such as personal assault and general stupidity. And I hope I can explain some of the self-reliant—and often contrarian—thinking that goes with it.

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