Is Recession Preparing a New Breed of Survivalist? [Survival Today

Yahoo ran an interesting article this morning indicating a rise in the number of survivalist communities cropping up around the country. I have been wondering myself how much of the recent energy crisis is causing people to do things like stockpile food and water, grow their own vegetables, etc. Could it be that there are many people out there stockpiling and their increased buying has caused food prices to increase? It’s an interesting theory, but I believe increased food prices have more to do with rising fuel prices as cost-to-market costs have increased and grocers are simply passing those increases along to the consumer. A recent stroll through the camping section of Wal-Mart did give me pause - what kinds of things are prudent to have on hand in the event of a worldwide shortage of food and/or fuel? Survivalist in Training

I’ve been interested in survival stories since I was a kid, which is funny considering I grew up in a city. Maybe that’s why the idea of living off the land appealed to me. My grandfather and I frequently took camping trips along the Blue Ridge Parkway and around the Smoky Mountains. Looking back, some of the best times we had were when we stayed at campgrounds without electricity hookups, because it forced us to use what we had to get by. My grandfather was well-prepared with a camp stove and lanterns (which ran off propane), and when the sun went to bed we usually did along with it. We played cards for entertainment, and in the absence of televisions, games, etc. we shared many great conversations. Survivalist in the Neighborhood

http://www.rusticgirls.com/food/crosne.html

[Photo]

Crosne: Different, Yet Delicious
Rustic Home > Food > Crosne

Web www.rusticgirls.com

Crosnes

The latest delicacy to hit American markets are the strange yet fascinating Chinese artichokes, also known as crosne (pronounced “crones”). These small roots are something of a cross between white radishes and carrots, with a curled, twisted shape and a delightful crunch when eaten raw.

Crosne have been popular in Europe for years, but they’re just now being discovered by American farmers’ markets and organic growers. It’s difficult to harvest and clean crosne, so it’s unlikely that they’ll be grown commercially in America anytime soon.

As a result, crosne can be quite expensive. Twenty dollars for a half pound is quite reasonable, when it comes to crosne, and they can easily fetch more, depending on availability and market conditions. Many small-scale organic growers, and farmers who make their money by selling higher-priced, labor-intensive foods, are beginning to grow crosne. It will no doubt join arrugula, specialty lettuce, and ginger root as high-priced but readily available ingredients in the near future.

Because crosne are so expensive, they are rarely added to dishes such as soups or casseroles, even though they make a pleasing addition to such meals. Instead, crosne are most often eaten raw in salads, where they add a little kick and a little crunch.

If you want to cook your crosne, the best way is to stir-fry them on medium to low heat in a saucepan, with a little olive oil. Add a few sprigs of rosemary, for an intense herbal taste, or a little thyme and oregano to go with chicken marinara. Or, stir fry them lightly in olive oil, then sprinkle with parsley and drizzle with an olive oil and balsamic vinagar vinaigrette just before serving.

However you choose to serve them, enjoy! Crosne are rapidly making their place on the tables of American diners, and with good reason. Their delicate kick and pleasant crunch make them the perfect addition to almost any meal.

Comments
Dug my first Crosne from my Home Garden. Success!
My small plot of 32 square feet has produced perfect Crosne. The main digging takes place in about two weeks.

http://www.durgan.org/ShortURL/?EPWHC Summary: Crosne growing experience.
#0 - Durgan - 10/20/2008 - 18:02

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening-tips.html

Gardening Tips
Rustic Home > Gardening > Gardening Tips

Web www.rusticgirls.com

1. Live in a place for a year, and watch how the sun angles and exposure changes during the seasons.

2. Decide what you want to do in the yard. Do you want let the children play, do you want to sip Chablis and watch the sun set, or party with friends? Think this over carefully. If you want to concrete over the place and dismember old automobiles, you are reading the wrong article, and possibly living in the wrong place.

3. Hang herbs and vegetables from baskets, if rabbits are a problem. If the rabbits in your neighborhood can rappel down from the porch roof, then they are better men than you are, Gunga-Din.

4. Ivy is a plague and an invention of the Devil. So are St. Augustine’s grass, Chinese jasmine and mint, although you can put mint in ice-tea, and mint sauce. (Serve mint sauce with roast lamb.)

5. Mulch is very good, but the free stuff at the city brush-mulching facility is usually full of trash and dirt, which is ok if you need topsoil, too. Cypress mulch is best, but the no-float stuff will float after four inches of rain has fallen on it.

6. Plant invasive stuff on the nastiest, most unpromising soil you have, or with something equally invasive. Let ‘em fight it out.

7. Defunct grocery carts, dead automobiles, and old plumbing fixtures are not acceptable lawn ornaments, but old truck tires turned inside out, painted and planted with seasonal plants, and pink flamingos decorated for Christmas, pulling a sleigh and wearing Santa hats have a certain funky charm. So does a statue of a saint in a bathtub set on end and planted with day-lilies.

8. Grass lawns outside of northern Europe, or the eastern United States are an aberration, high-maintenance and water-thirsty. A wildflower meadow, xerioscape plantings or gravel interspersed with native shrubs would be an acceptable substitute, but green-painted gravel or Astroturf is emphatically not.

9. Given a choice, buy, perennials rather than annuals … unless they self-seed generously.

10. You can acquire nice stone and brick for pathways and flowerbed edges by watching building sites carefully. Chatting up the construction crews when the brick or stonework is nearly finished, and getting permission to take away the broken stone or excess brick when the work is completed will pay off handsomely. Keep a pair of garden gloves in the trunk for occasions like this. Doing this sort of thing is a better reason to own a pickup truck or an SUV than most owners of such usually have.

11. A good source for native stone is wherever they are widening the highway: again, the gloves and the pickup truck come in handy.

12. Look around at what your neighbors are growing. If you don’t see lilacs in South Texas, or cacti in the Pacific Northwest, consider that a clue and plan your own garden accordingly.

13. Whatever the municipality plants in the park, and the highway department puts along the roadsides is guaranteed to be tough, self-sufficient, water-wise and idiot-proof.

14. The varieties of antique rose that were discovered growing on old home-sites and graveyards are similarly tough, self-sufficient, etc. If something looked after itself for 80 years, it shouldn’t have a problem in your garden.

15. I don’t want to waste time fussing over something exotic, high-maintenance and which requires a lot of chemicals. If it can’t cope without a lot of help, you probably shouldn’t bother. Die-hard enthusiasts for out-of-area exotica will disagree, but this is a free country. We are free to select our own perversions.

16. If it’s stupid, but it works, then it isn’t stupid.

17. Consider the views from each window, and arrange something nice to look at from inside the house.

18. Consider growing jasmine, almond verbena, roses or other scented plants where the perfume will drift in through an opened window. Pots of scented geranium placed where you will brush against them as you walk by are another aromatic thrill.

19. Pottery pots breath, but plastic ones don’t dry out so rapidly in mid summer.

20. Don’t disdain big-box store sources like Home Depot, Wal-Mart, et cetera. They carry the commoner plants at a good price, during the season, but they are not set up for long-term care. Buy ‘em the minute they off-load them from the truck.

21. Once you work out a grand plan, and decide on the varieties and colors you want, buy the plants as you see them coming available. Some day, I shall be rich and be able to buy all the plants I need, all at once, but until then it’s a case of a few at a time, fitting into the scheme like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle.

22. You can’t do it all yourself, all at once. Just pick one little space to improve at a time. By the time you have finished it all, it’s time to go back to the beginning and re-do it.

23. If not planted immediately, re-pot into a larger pot. Having a lot of plants in pots lets you move them around and discover where they work out best. Think of it as moving furniture around.

24. When it’s really hot, the stuff in pots needs to be watered morning AND afternoon.

25. Put all the garden porn.... you know, all those lavishly illustrated books of wonderfully lush, landscaped acres on the grounds of a historic home... on one shelf, for easy inspiration and reference.

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening/organic-pest-control.html

Organic Pest Control Tips
Rustic Home > Gardening >Organic Pest Control Tips (part 1)

Web www.rusticgirls.com

Organic pest control doesn’t mean substituting naturally occurring poisons for synthetic ones and gardening as usual. You need to make two changes in your basic thinking:
- Accept that most insects are non-pests and even helpers, and stop trying to kill every insect you see in your vegetable garden.
- Accept the occasional hole and bite in your produce as a natural part of raising healthy, residue-free food.
Once you have accepted these new ideas you can move on to learning about organic pest control.

11 TOOLS FOR ORGANIC PEST CONTROL-
Simple techniques and products make organic pest control work.
Here’s a brief rundown of the elements needed:

Good Soil Care-
Well-fed and cared-for soil is full of tiny living organisms that feed and care for plant roots. Plants growing in such soil are pest resistant. Test and adjust your soil’s pH to suit your plants. Add abundant quantities of organic matter-such as compost-every year. Till only when needed and never when the soil is wet, and don’t use synthetic fertilizers or herbicides.

Resistant and Suitable Plants-
There are many vegetable varieties that have disease and even pest resistance built right in. Choose resistant plants whenever you have the choice. Purchase plants that grow well in your region and you’ll spend less time fighting problems.

Good Plant Care-
Give every plant exactly what it needs. Thirsty, hungry, over-watered, or overfed plants are stressed plants. Stressed plants are prime candidates for problems.

Eyes-
Use your eyes to spot potential problem situations before they turn into 4-alarm fires. Take a slow walk through your garden twice a week peering under leaves and observing what’s going on. Write down when and what you see to help you predict things next year.

Hands-
Your hands are great pest control tools. Use them for picking off or squashing pests.

Beneficial Bugs-
You can purchase a number of garden helpers to hunt pests for you. Lace wing larvae are great predators of aphids, mites, and other small, soft pests. Lady beetles are great predators, but tend to fly away when released. Predatory wasps or Trichogramma wasps lay their eggs on pest caterpillar eggs so that the pest eggs never get a chance to hatch. To attract wild predatory insects, plant a patch of flowers and herbs such as yarrow, dill, and sweet clover to provide food and cover.

Beneficial nematodes are tiny worm-like creatures that hunt insects in the soil and kill them. They are related to pest nematodes, but are not harmful to plants. Purchase and apply them according to label instructions.

Diseases That Make Pests Sick-
Pests get diseases just the way we do. The best-known example is BT (Bacillus thuringiensis). BT (or BTK) makes only caterpillars sick. Another type of BT (BTSD) makes only Colorado potato beetle larvae sick.

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening/growing-strawberries.html

Grow Your Own Strawberries
Rustic Home > Gardening > Growing Strawberries

Web www.rusticgirls.com

Young Strawberry Plant
Fresh strawberries are a delectable summer treat whether eaten right out of the garden, in homemade ice cream, old-fashioned strawberry shortcake, jelly, jam, or other desserts. Berries from the grocery store produce department are no match for growing your own delicious juicy fruits in your own garden. Strawberries are easy to grow and with the right conditions the same plants can produce fruit for up to five years before they need to be replaced.

There are three main types of strawberries plants and many varieties of each type. Which you choose depends on whether you want to eat fresh berries all summer or have a large crop within a short period of time for freezing or canning.

June bearing strawberry varieties will produce one large single crop in the late spring over a period of two to three weeks. The largest berries will be from June-bearing plants. These varieties make many runners that create “daughter” plants where they touch the soil.

Plant individual berry plants in an alternating pattern 18 inches apart with four and a half feet between the rows. This gives the runners room to spread as they wish, but if you give them half a chance they will take over the yard too! Train the runners toward empty spots between the plants and secure the ends to the soil with a small rock so they will root and make daughter plants. Before long, the plants will form a lovely green mat.

In a spaced row system, plants should be placed 18” apart in rows that are three to four feet apart. Spaced rows produce a higher yield and larger berries with fewer disease problems. Guide the daughter plants to spaces between the mother plants so they are about six inches apart and make rows about two feet wide. Cut off any extra runners.

Pinch off any blossoms that appear the first year that you plant June-bearers. This will encourage the plants to grow vigorously and produce more runners. Your payoff comes the next summer when they will be bursting with wonderful strawberries!

Everbearing varieties will produce two or three harvests of fruit throughout the growing season and will produce a full crop the first season. They do not make many runners. Day neutral strawberries will produce throughout the growing season and also offer few runners. Both varieties are good for gardens with limited space or container gardening and produce small flavorful berries. Everbearing and day neutral berries are best planted in groups of two or three plants on hills that are eight inches high and two feet wide. Stagger the hills twelve inches apart. If space is tight, consider planting them in strawberry pots (containers with pockets around the sides), hanging baskets or containers. Remove any runners to allow more crowns and flower stalks to develop and pinch off any blossoms that appear until the first of July. Pinching off some of the blossoms after they begin to form tiny berries will allow the remaining berries to grow larger.

Whichever variety of strawberry you choose, the garden preparation, fertilization, sunlight and watering requirements are the same.

Buy strawberry plants that are not potted to save money and for ease of planting. Check online or mail order catalogs to choose varieties. You may also be able to get free starter plants from a friend or neighbor who has a patch. If they grow June-bearing strawberries they should have plenty of daughter plants to spare!

Strawberries require full sun, no less than six hours a day, and well-drained, sandy soil. More sunlight means more and better quality berries. They will not tolerate drought or standing water. Plant them in the spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work.

Till and cultivate sod the year before you plant strawberries to eliminate competition from grass. Work in one or two inches of compost or well-rotted manure. Pick a spot that is free from grubs, perennial weeds and disease. Avoid planting strawberries where tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants or peppers have been planted within the last three years. These plants may have infested the soil with verticillium rot which is especially hazardous to strawberry plants. Place your strawberry patch beyond the root zone of large trees so they won’t compete for water and nutrients.

Plant on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon so the sun doesn’t stress the plants. Make a hole large enough that you can spread the roots out. Make a hill in the center of the hole so that the crown of the plant will be at soil level. Spread the roots over the hill and bury them.

Strawberry plants require cool soil to produce the best harvest. Mulch between the rows to keep the soil cool, discourage weeds, and keep the fruit from laying on the soil. Don’t use black plastic as mulch because it will raise the soil temperature. Give the garden and inch or two of water if it hasn’t rained much the previous week.

Once your garden has begun to set fruit, you will need to put a mesh net over the crop to keep birds from helping themselves to your tempting berries, and they always go for the biggest, juiciest ones! As the berries grow, watch for any showing signs of disease or rot and remove them from the garden.

Harvest your strawberries when they turn bright red all over. If you’re not sure if they’re ripe, taste one. It won’t hurt to leave them on the plant an extra day or two; they’ll become more flavorful. Don’t pull them off the stem; strawberries bruise very easily and need gentle handling. Break the stem off above the berry and place (don’t throw!) it into a bowl or basket. They like to hide under the leaves so look carefully to be sure you get them all! Pick berries shortly before you plan to use them and don’t leave them at room temperature for more than a few hours. If you can’t use them right away put the unwashed berries in a bowl loosely covered with plastic wrap in the coldest part of the refrigerator.

After your crop is harvested renovate your strawberry garden to prepare it for the next season. Carefully mow the crowns down to two or three inches. Till or hoe between the rows, mulch and all, and reduce the width of the rows to six to 12 inches wide, thinning plants to six inches apart. Fertilize the plants with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) at five pounds per 100 feet of row.

In colder climates, before the temperature drops to 20 degrees, cover the crowns of the plants with several inches of straw or pine needles to protect the leaves from frost. In the spring when the leaves begin to turn yellow gently rakes off the mulch into the space between the rows and fertilize and maintain the plants as in the previous season. A well-maintained strawberry patch may last five years, but if after three or four years the plants or berries begin to diminish in quality or quantity start a new strawberry patch in a new location.- J. E. Davidson

Comments

[Perfect solution, it will bring the produce right in the doggie door.....granny]

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening/garden-railway.html

Create Your Own Garden Railroad
Rustic Home > Gardening > Garden Railroad

Web www.rusticgirls.com

Model Train in Garden
Are you a gardening enthusiast fascinated with toy trains? A garden railway, or train garden, cleverly combines these favorite pastimes into amazing sites with which everyone can enjoy. These gardens will actually come to life as the model trains gracefully move about the miniature landscape filled with low-growing plants and realistic buildings.

You don’t have to be an expert to design a garden railway of your own; however, you may want to do some research beforehand to make the task a little easier. There are numerous resources, such as books and magazines, available on the subject. Your local extension office can provide this information as well. You might also consider visiting some garden railways that are located in your area.

Before planning your garden railway design, perform a quick inspection of the designated site to ensure that it is suitable. Since outdoor model trains require a fairly level area, this will be something to bear in mind as you examine your property. Determine whether or not the track will be added to an existing garden or if both will be designed at the same time. Finally, decide just how elaborate you want your garden railway to be. For beginners, less may be more; however, leave yourself enough room in the event you want to add onto it later.

Since your railway will be accommodating a host of plant life, choose an area easily accessible to a water source. Additionally, interesting water features within the design can enhance its appeal. If you have rocks or a slope in your yard, incorporate these into your design for a more natural effect. Since most model locomotives and cars are waterproof, they can be run even when it is raining. The track, too, is made materials such as brass, stainless steel, or aluminum to prevent any rusting. You may, however, want to create a place to store your train.

Some people design their railways to run into their home or outbuilding through a small tunnel. A pet door would be another option. There are many ways to install the track; however, one of the easiest is to float the track in stones or gravel. Dig a shallow trench, about 2 or 3 inches deep, and fill it with crushed stone. Set the track in place, making sure it is level. Backfill with additional stones until flush with ground. By floating the track, it can move freely as summer heat causes the rails to expand and winter cold makes them contract. Another method for installing track is to simply select a material, such as hardwood, to use as the track base. Measure the lengths, including both straight and curved, according to the track’s design and cut the pieces as you lay it. Attach the track to the wooden base with brass nails.

Generally, a single locomotive with three or four pieces of rolling stock (freight or passenger cars) is adequate. G-scale trains are the most popular. Scale is the proportion of the model to the full-size train (1:24 scale). Gauge is the distance between the rails. A G-scale runs on 1-gauge (G-gauge) track. When choosing a train, decide on the type of railroad. For instance, will it accommodate freight or passengers? A small industrial line, with little engines and short cars is ideal for areas with limited space, while a modern mainline requires more room.

There is a variety of ready-to-install track available to choose from and can be purchased in many hobby shops. You can even choose to construct your own; however, this is best left for those who are more knowledgeable in this area. Commercial track comes in sections with set lengths and curves, available in short or longer sections to suit your needs. Sectional track can be easily picked up and put down; however, if you want a more permanent railway, you should consider using flexible track. This type of track can be easily bent to fit nearly any design.

Once you have determined the scale and gauge for your track, decide how your train will be powered. Trains usually operate on a 12V-18V DC power supply, the same as with most garden lighting. The power pack should be located in a dry area and easily accessible to an electrical outlet. Other options for powering your train include those that are battery-powered, radio-controlled, or even real steam locomotives.

After you have finished designing and laying your track, it’s time to place your vegetation and realistic features. Try sticking with natural materials when constructing your miniature landscape. For instance, create mountains made of dirt, rivers made of water, rocks made of stone, etc.

With the use of small annuals and dwarf or low-growing varieties of plants, you can create a realistic train garden. Use plants no more than 2-3 feet tall. Numerous rock garden plants are suitable. Annuals to consider include sweet alyssum, dwarf marigold, thyme, marjoram, creeping rosemary, and creeping zinnia. Low-growing varieties of trees and shrubs that are commonly used include bearberry, creeping juniper, boxwood, and dwarf pines and spruces. The cone and round shapes of dwarf evergreens will also provide winter interest and structure.

Perennials and groundcovers are important elements in this type of garden. They are often used to create miniature prairies as well as for covering slopes and tracksides. Use small-leaved sedum to imitate shrubs. Moss and short perennial grasses are good choices for mimicking grass. Other low-growing perennials can offer interesting foliage and color. For instance, try creeping phlox, baby tears, or hens and chicks. If you are incorporating any houses or other miniature buildings into your scene, keep them weather-resistant by adding a coat of polyurethane.- Nikki Phipps

Comments
garden train layout
I am located in the Northeast part of the US and the area where I live is subject to rain and snow. In a situation as this is it better to secure the track to wood than the crushed rock? It is explained that the crushed rock floats but how do you prevent it from moving in torrential downpours?
#1 - leo soto - 12/10/2007 - 10:06

battery powered train
I read your article with interest. Could you tell me where to look to learn more about powering garden trains with battery-power, radio-controlled, or even steam locomotives. I would like to research and build a train layout at my house. Thanks!
#0 - Jennifer Boyle - 09/09/2007 - 16:00

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening/mini-farm.html

Mini Farms
Rustic Home > Gardening > Backyard Farms

Web www.rusticgirls.com

Farm Hen
Do you yearn for a few acres and a self sufficient lifestyle? Well, while you are waiting it out in suburbia, you can still create a productive mini-farm in your own backyard, just by utilizing the space to its best advantage.

First draw up a scale plan of your backyard. Note which areas receive full sun, which partial shade, and which full shade. You may have to change a few things to get the best use from the space. For example, if there is a shed in an area that would be ideal for an orchard, move the shed to an area less inviting to plants.

Study your plan carefully and look for the best sites for the various elements of your mini-farm. You don’t have to have everything, but with careful planning, you can have an orchard, a thriving vegetable garden, an herb patch, a beehive, a chicken coop and a goat for milk. You will have to check local government regulations and the tolerance of your neighbors on the last two.

Mark out the main areas with spray paint, and attend to any tidying up that needs to be done - removing old plants and weeds, digging over the soil and adding soil improvers where necessary.

Locate your orchard in a sunny part of the garden. Fruit trees love the sun and produce their sweetest fruit under its warmth. You orchard won’t have to take up a lot of room if you use the new dwarf trees that are available. Some fruit trees require two trees for germination. Discuss this with your nurseryman, and choose trees best suited to your own area.

To make room for extra trees, you can espalier them against a wall or fence. This simply means planting the tree close to the fence and spreading the growing branches by fastening them against it. Espalier is an old technique that still works very well where backyard space is at a premium.

Fences, trellis and other supports can also be called into good use. If you have the climate for it, plant grape vines in these areas. If it’s too cool, or you don’t want grape vines, plant other productive vines such as runner beans, peas and tiny tomatoes.

Where you want hedging, use bushy lavender and rosemary. You will have a fragrant garden feature and a regular supply for kitchen and home of these very useful herbs.

More herbs can be grown in the spokes of an old wagon wheel filled with soil, or in any small patch that receives at least partial sun. If there is simply no space to spare, grow your herbs in pots on a sunny window sill or lined up at the back of the house.

You need at least two separate vegetable plots, so you can rotate them. Plant leaf vegetables in one plot and root vegetables in the other and change them over after harvest. Putting your vegetable plots in raised beds will make planting and harvesting a lot easier, and improve drainage in heavy soil areas.

A beehive will be productive addition to your garden, especially if you need bees to cross pollinate your fruit trees. A simple backyard beehive is simple to install and doesn’t take up much space. You can order one over the Internet. The Top Bar Hive is designed to keep your bees happy and stress free without a lot of labor and no chemicals. You can purchase a swarm from a bee supply company, and you’re in business.

Keeping chickens may seem daunting, but when you are harvesting your own fresh eggs you will never regret it. Plan your backyard hen coop for an area sheltered from wind and sun, and make sure the coop adequately protects your birds from cold and rain. Your coop needs dry nesting boxes and an impervious floor - meaning that it won’t soak up moisture, so concrete is better than timber or earth. These coops will have netted ``scratch’’ areas so your chickens can enjoy an earth floor as well.

You can buy ready made hen coops online, in a variety of designs suited to your needs. A movable hen coop on wheels might work better for your backyard, especially if you would like to let your chickens out to scratch around the backyard.

You can also find plans online to help you build your own customized hen coop. Once you have the hens’ home in place, buy first year pullets so you can start harvesting eggs as soon as they have settled in. If you want chicks, you will have to check with your local authority about keeping a rooster. Many councils and neighbors don’t mind chickens, but they draw the line at being woken up at dawn by a rooster!

The best breeds for backyard egg production are Dorking, Buckeye, Orpington, Barnevelder, Plymouth Rock and Sussex. These breeds are quiet and docile and make good pets where there are children to consider. Don’t choose a bird that is known to be aggressive or noisy.

Your mini-farm can also produce milk, cream, cheese and yoghurt, as long as local regulations allow. A small goat like the Australian Miniature Goat and other dwarf breeds will not take up much room and will prove an excellent pet although they do not produce as much milk as larger breeds. Of the larger goats, the Saanen and Nubian are pleasant to have around. Goats are generally placid, and easy to look after, as long as they are sensitively handled as kids. Make sure you know the temperament of your goat and never tether it near the washing line! (Yes, they do eat everything).

Operating a mini-farm in your backyard can be an adventure for all the family, and won’t outrage your neighbors if you keep the nuisance factor to a minimum, and share some of your bounty. While you won’t have the bountiful harvests of your dream small holding, you will often have so much produce that you won’t know what else to do with it!- Gail Kavanagh .

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening/russian-sage.html

[photo- it is a beautiful plant]

About Russian Sage
Rustic Home > Gardening > Russian Sage

Web www.rusticgirls.com

Russian Sage
From a distance, it looks like a silvery-blue grass. Up close, you might describe it as more of a flower, but this interesting plant is actually defined as a woody sub-shrub, meaning that it has a woody stem like a shrub but not enough wood in the stem to qualify for shrub status. That’s okay, though, because super-hardy Russian sage is tough enough to thumb its nose at conventional labels and forge its own way.

Winner of the 1995 Perennial of the Year award by the Perennial Plant Association, Russian sage is tolerant of alkaline soil, salt and drought and is cold hardy to about 30 degrees below zero. It is deer resistant but will attract bees and is an aromatic member of the mint family, though its scent is of sage.

Left to grow unchecked, the purple-flowered racemes of Russian sage will reach an average of four feet tall and spread to about three feet wide. They are wonderful toward the back of a garden or can be planted in groups to achieve a very grassy, country effect or to help prevent erosion on hillsides. Because of their length and color, they also add a somewhat ethereal flair to cut flower arrangements. Great colors to use with Russian sage include white, yellow and pink. Yellow coreposis, annual baby’s breath or pink daylillies planted in front of Russian Sage will create an airy, delicate look. For a varied texture combination, tall sunflowers or bright pink cannas would make an interesting backdrop as well.

To get started with Russian sage, buy Perovskia hybrids such as ‘Blue Mist,’ ‘Little Spire’ or ‘Blue Spire’ in four-inch pots. There is some confusion about the names of the hybrid mixes, so you’ll want to look for the scientific name P. atriplicifolia on the label. Plant in full sun at least one foot apart from other plants and no deeper into the soil than it was in the pot. Mulch lightly around the stem (but not touching the stem) with organic compost and water it in. You can water it throughout the summer, but if you can’t get to it for a while, it won’t be terribly offended. For the winter garden, allow the dormant, silvery stems to remain in place then cut back to about six inches tall in the early spring. One word of caution though: if you have sensitive skin, you may want to wear gloves when handling Russian sage as there have been a few reports of skin irritation.

Be sure to plant Russian sage in an area of your yard where you can enjoy it for many years to come. Once in place, it will grow into a tall, breezy, silvery-blue bush that will complement most any landscape.

http://www.rusticgirls.com/gardening/
Gardening Index

Clay Garden Soils Require Special Care

Clay soils, also referred to as “heavy” soils, present special problems for gardeners in
many parts of Calaveras County. If they are very low in organic matter, clay soils lose their
structure and become cloddy and compact if tilled, walked on, or otherwise manipulated when
they are too wet. Once a clay soil is badly compacted, it may take years of careful handling to
restore good structure.

Tillage is commonly the first and most important step in preparing garden soil. Tilling
helps to produce and maintain a good structure for seedling growth and rooting, controlling
weeds, keeping the soil permeable to water, and allowing proper oxygen diffusion. When it
comes to tillage practices, you need to handle clay soils very carefully to produce good results.
When moist, clay soils should be dug with a spading fork rather than with a shovel or spade. As
you turn the soil over, break up the large clods with the side of the fork. The clods that remain
should be exposed to the sun and air. After they have dried and crumbled somewhat, wet them
with a fine spray to soften them, then rake them when they have dried somewhat. The
combination of air-drying, wetting, and raking will break up most of the clods.

Although you cannot make clay soils ideal garden soils, you can improve them by any
treatment which will cause the soil particles to form small granules and crumbs. The best
treatment for this purpose is to incorporate large amounts of organic matter into the soil to
improve soil structure. The improved condition may remain even long after the organic matter
has disappeared.

Animal manures, green plant material, compost and leaf mold are especially good for
improving soil condition. If you decide to use manures, it’s a good idea to first leach the manure
with water to remove excessive salts which may cause plant injury. Materials which decay very
slowly, such as peat moss, straw, sawdust, rice hulls and shredded bark are somewhat less
desirable because they do not aggregate the soil as well. These organic materials, when first
incorporated into the soil, will compete with plants for the available nitrogen, an important plant
nutrient. You should apply some extra nitrogen to the soil when using these materials, especially
if you intend to plant a crop immediately after adding the organic matter.

The slowly decaying materials such as sawdust and bark do not necessarily improve soil
structure immediately. They serve mainly as fillers to increase the percentage of large pores and
to improve soil permeability, or drainage. Large quantities of these materials are generally
required to have value as fillers; as much as one-half by volume of soil could be needed for the
treatment. It may be worth your time, energy and money to add such materials to your garden
soil or to use them in preparing large amounts of potting or bedding mixes. However, if you
only need small amounts of good soil—such as for potted plants—you are probably better off
purchasing soil mixes.

If you use an organic material that decomposes slowly, cover the soil to a depth of about
4 inches. Incorporate this organic matter into the soil to a depth of about 8 inches. Once your
crops are planted, you’ll need to water carefully to avoid excessive wetness below the 8 inch
depth.
Gypsum is often recommended to improve clay soils. However, this amendment is
primarily useful for improving sodic (alkali) soils, which often have poor structure. Gypsum will
not improve a clay soil unless the soil also happens to be sodic. Also, most clay soils in
California already contain sufficient lime. Lime should not be used unless the soil is excessively
acid.

Information for this article was gathered at the UC Vegetable Research Center. Please contact
the Farm Advisor’s office at 754-6477 or http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu with your agricultural
questions.

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/files/37845.pdf

Drying Foods at Home

For thousands of years, people have dried many foods to preserve them for leaner times.
Preserving seasonal foods by drying is still useful and convenient, and it has the added advantage of
conserving storage space. How does drying preserve food?

Basically, sufficient moisture is
removed from a food material to prevent its decay; water content of properly dried food can vary
from 5 percent to 25 percent. In hot, dry climates, food will be reduced in a few days to a moisture
level that preserves them. In any climate, however, you can create satisfactory drying conditions at
a moderate expense by using artificial heat and circulating air over the food.

Blanching

Blanching is the process of heating vegetables sufficiently to inactivate enzymes. Enzymes
are the biological catalysts that facilitate chemical reactions in living tissue. If certain enzymes are
not inactivated, they will cause color and flavor to deteriorate during drying and storage. Blanched
vegetables, when dried, will have better flavor and color than unblanched ones. You may blanch
with hot water or with steam. Water blanching usually results in more leaching of vegetable solids,
but it takes less time than steam blanching under kitchen conditions.

DRYING THE VEGETABLES

Drying in the kitchen oven or in a dehydrator is recommended; however, sun drying may be used
under proper conditions.

In the oven
1. Trays must be at least 1-1/2 inches narrower than the inside of the oven to allow for air
circulation. Allow at least 2-1/2 inches between trays and 3 inches of free space at the top of the
oven. Cheesecloth may be spread over the trays (under the food) to prevent small pieces from
falling between the slats.

2. Load two to four trays with no more than 4 to 6 pounds of prepared vegetables distributed among
them. Vegetable pieces should be in a single layer. More than one kind of vegetable can be dried at
the same time. Strong-smelling vegetables should be dried separately.

3. Place an accurate and easily read thermometer on the top tray toward the back.

4. Preheat the oven to 160 degrees F (71 degrees C), and then add the loaded trays. Prop the door
open at least 4 inches.

5. Place a fan outside the oven in such a position that air is directed through the opening and across
the oven. Change the position of the fan frequently during drying to vary the circulation of air.

6. Maintain the temperature at 140 degrees F (60 degrees C). It takes less heat to keep the
temperature at 140 degrees F as drying progresses, so watch the temperature carefully toward the
end of the drying.

7. Examine the vegetables often, and turn the trays frequently. At the start of the drying process
there is little danger of scorching, but when nearly dry, the product may scorch easily. Even slight
scorching destroys the flavor and may lower the nutritive value, so be careful not to allow the
temperature to rise above 140 degrees F, especially during the latter stage of drying.

In the Sun

Drying in the sun is unpredictable unless temperatures are over 100 Degrees F, and the
relative humidity is low. If the temperature is too low, humidity too high, or both, spoilage (souring
or molding) will occur before drying is achieved. Place the prepared vegetables on clean trays, as
for dehydrator drying, and cover the trays with cheesecloth to guard against insects. The trays
should not be stacked for sun drying. The cheesecloth should be raised above the trays so that it
does not contact the product, but be sure to protect the sides against insects. Such a cover will slow
the drying process. Turn the vegetables once a day to facilitate drying. If the temperature at night is
more than 20 degrees F lower than daytime temperature, place the trays under shelter. It will
probably take 3 to 4 days to complete drying, depending upon particle size, air temperature, and
type of product.

Packaging

Dehydrated vegetables are free from insect infestation when removed from the dehydrator or
oven. However, they are immediately susceptible to contamination and should be packaged as soon
as they are cool. Use dry, scalded, insect-proof containers such as home canning jars with wellfitting
lids. Coffee cans may be used if the dried vegetables are first placed in a plastic bag. The
vegetable should be packed into the container as tightly as possible without crushing. Despite
precautions, sun dried vegetables may be contaminated by insects. Therefore, the packaged dried
vegetables should be placed in the home freezer for 48 hours to kill any possible insects or their
eggs. Containers and storage areas should also be rodent proof.

This article adapted from Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service,
USDA. Please contact the Farm Advisor’s office at cdcalaveras@ucdavis.edu or 754-6477 with
your agricultural questions. Talk to a certified Master Gardener every Wednesday, 10:00-12:00,
754-2880. To speak with a Master Gardener in Tuolumne County, please call 209 533-5696.

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/files/53732.pdf

Grape Arbors - New Interest in an Old Tradition

Grapes have been a part of the Sierra Foothill’s heritage and tradition for many years.

Many homesteads and landscapes over the foothills still have a grape vine - over the wall, along a back fence, or in the old shade tree.

Arbors Enhance Landscape

Now many people are looking again to the grape vine for beauty, food, enjoyment and pride. Grape arbors serve as accents in the landscape, as a passage way or simply a source of shade in recreational areas and to adorn structures.
The tasty grapes you can pick from your arbor are versatile in their use. You can eat them fresh; process them into juice, jelly or wine, or simply have the fruit on the vine for the delight of children and adults.

A grape arbor can be a family project. Its construction, planting of the grape vines, pruning, harvesting and utilizing the fruit help each member learn more about our environment and nature’s way of growing things. For example, the vine goes through four seasonal cycles. It emerges from rest in the spring, grows rapidly in the summer, fruits in the fall and becomes dormant in the winter.

Young grape vines should be planted on well-drained sandy loam soil in February or March. If a heavy clay is the only type available, compost can be mixed into the planting hole to give the young vine an easier start.

At planting, dormant grapes should be pruned back to two buds. During the second and third year, allow one trunk to develop, with all the side canes pruned off as they develop. A single cane should be selected to grow across the arbor to form the cordon.

Can Grow in Little Space

Grapes can be grown even in very little space. One vine could be used in a cubic yard of soil with a small amount of direct sunlight. A standard arbor could be established in an 8’ x 8’ area. Larger arbors could be developed as desired.
Grapes can be grown on an un-pruned natural arbor or a well pruned maintained arbor.

The natural arbor is permitted to grow randomly, forming a thick mass of canes. There is very little upkeep and the vines produce a dense shade. Since the vines are not pruned annually, there would be significantly fewer grapes produced.

The maintained arbor is covered by vines which are pruned to a two-bud spur-type cordon. Prune vines in February or March to a single cordon. Each spur should be pruned to contain two or three buds. Grapes should be pruned in this manner every year in February or March.

This article adapted from Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service, USDA. Please contact Ken Churches at cdcalaveras@ucdavis.edu or (209) 754-6475 with your agricultural questions. To speak with a Certified Master Gardener: Calaveras (209) 754-2880, Tuolumne (209) 533-5696, Amador (209) 223-6837, El Dorado (530) 621-5543.

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/files/61702.pdf

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/pocket.htm

Pocket Gophers

Pocket gophers are burrowing rodents that get their name from the fur-lined external cheek pouches, or pockets, they use for carrying food and nesting materials. They are well equipped for a digging, tunneling lifestyle with powerfully built forequarters, large-clawed front paws, fine short fur that doesn’t cake in wet soils, small eyes and small external ears, and highly sensitive facial whiskers to assist movements in the dark. An unusual adaptation is the gopher’s lips, which can be closed behind the four large incisor teeth to keep dirt out of its mouth when it is using its teeth for digging.

IDENTIFICATION:
Although they are sometimes seen feeding at the edge of an open burrow, pushing dirt out of a burrow, or moving to a new area, gophers for the most part remain underground in the burrow system.

Mounds of fresh soil are the best sign of gopher presence. Mounds are formed as the gopher digs its tunnel and pushes the loose dirt to the surface. Typically mounds are crescent- or horseshoe-shaped when viewed from above. The hole, which is off to one side of the mound, is usually plugged. One gopher may create several mounds in a day. In non-irrigated areas, mound building is most pronounced during spring or fall when the soil is moist and easy to dig. In irrigated areas such as lawns, flower beds, and gardens, digging conditions are usually optimum year round and mounds can appear at any time.

BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR:
Pocket gophers live in a burrow system that can cover an area of 200 to 2,000 square feet. The burrows are about 2.5 to 3.5 inches in diameter; feeding burrows are usually 6 to 12 inches below ground, whereas the nest and food storage chamber may be as deep as 6 feet. Gophers seal the openings to the burrow system with earthen plugs. Short, sloping lateral tunnels connect the main burrow system to the surface and are created during construction of the main tunnel for pushing dirt to the surface.

Gophers do not hibernate and may be active at any hour of the day. Gophers usually live alone within their burrow system, except for females with young or when breeding, and may occur in densities of up to16 to 20 per acre.

Gophers reach sexual maturity at about 1 year of age and can live up to 3 years. Females produce one to three litters per year: in non-irrigated areas, breeding usually occurs in late winter and early spring, resulting in one litter per year, whereas in irrigated sites, up to three litters per year may be produced. Litters usually average five to six young.

Pocket gophers are herbivores, feeding on a wide variety of vegetation, but generally preferring herbaceous plants, shrubs, and trees to grasses. Gophers use their sense of smell to locate food. Most commonly they feed on roots and fleshy portions of plants they encounter while digging. However, sometimes they feed aboveground, venturing only a body length or so from their tunnel opening. Burrow openings used in this manner are called “feed holes. “ They are identified by the absence of a dirt mound and a circular band of clipped vegetation around the hole. Gophers will also pull entire plants into their tunnel from below. In snow-covered regions gophers may feed on bark several feet up a tree by burrowing through the snow.

MANAGEMENT:
To successfully control gophers, the sooner you detect their presence and take control measures, the better. Most people control gophers in lawns, gardens, or small orchards by trapping them and/or by using poison baits.

Trapping
Trapping can be a safe and effective method to control pocket gophers. Several types and brands of gopher traps are available. The most commonly used is a two-pronged pincher trap, such as the Macabee trap, which is triggered when the gopher pushes against a flat vertical pan. Another popular trap is the choker-style box trap.

To set traps, locate the main tunnel with a probe. Use a shovel or garden trowel to open the tunnel wide enough to set traps in pairs facing opposite directions. By placing traps with their openings facing in opposite directions, a gopher coming from either end of the burrow can be intercepted. The box trap is easier to use if you’ve never set gopher traps before, but setting it requires more excavation than if you are using the Macabee trap, an important consideration in lawns and some gardens. Box traps are especially useful when the diameter of the gopher’s main burrow is small (less than 3 inches) because to use the Macabee-type wire traps, small burrows must be enlarged to accommodate them.

It is not necessary to bait a gopher trap, although some claim baiting gives better results. Lettuce, carrots, apples, or alfalfa greens can be used as bait. Place the bait at the back of a box trap behind the wire trigger or behind the flat pan of a Macabee-type trap. Wire your traps to stakes so they can be easily retrieved from the burrow. After setting the traps, exclude light from the burrow by covering the opening with dirt clods, sod, cardboard, or some other material. Fine soil can be sifted around the edges to ensure a light-tight seal. If light enters, the gopher may plug the burrow with soil, filling the traps and making them ineffective. Check traps often and reset them when necessary. If a gopher is not caught within 3 days, reset the traps in a different location.

Baiting with Toxic Baits
The key to an effective toxic baiting program is bait placement. Always place pocket gopher bait in the main underground tunnel, not the lateral tunnels. After locating the main gopher burrow with a probe, enlarge the opening by rotating the probe or inserting a larger rod or stick. Following label directions, place the bait carefully in the opening using a spoon or other suitable implement that is used only for that purpose, taking care not to spill any on the ground surface. A funnel is useful for preventing spillage.

Strychnine-treated grain bait is the most common type used for pocket gopher control. This bait generally contains 0.5% strychnine and is lethal with a single feeding. Baits containing anticoagulants are also available. They require a large treatment so that the bait is available for multiple feedings. Although generally less effective than strychnine baits, anticoagulant baits are preferred for use in areas where children and pets may be present. When using either type of bait, be sure to follow all label directions and precautions.

After placing the bait in the main burrow, close the probe hole with sod, rock, or some other material to exclude light and prevent dirt from falling on the bait. Several bait placements within a burrow system will increase success. Tamp down existing mounds so you can distinguish new activity. If new mounds appear for more than 2 days after strychnine baiting or 7 to 10 days after anticoagulant baits have been used, you will need to rebait or try trapping.

Biological Control
Predators, including owls, snakes, cats, dogs, and coyotes, eat pocket gophers. In most cases they are unable to keep pocket gopher populations below the levels that cause problems in gardens and landscaped areas because just one gopher can cause considerable damage. Predators rarely, if ever, remove every prey animal, but instead move on to hunt at more profitable locations. In addition, gophers have defenses against predators. For example, they can escape snakes in their burrows by rapidly pushing up an earthen plug to block the snake’s advance.

Recently there has been interest in the idea of attracting barn owls to an area for gopher control by installing nest boxes. Although barn owls prey on gophers, their habit of hunting over large areas, often far from their nest box, and their tendency to hunt areas with abundant prey, makes them unreliable for gopher control. When a single gopher, capable of causing damage rapidly, invades a yard or garden, a gardener cannot afford to wait for an owl to arrive. Effective action, usually trapping or baiting, must be taken immediately.

Follow-up
Once pocket gophers have been controlled, monitor the area on a regular basis for reinfestation of the land. Level all existing mounds after the control program and clean away weeds and garden debris so fresh mounds can be seen easily. It is important to check regularly for reinfestation because pocket gophers may move in from other areas and damage can reoccur within a short time. If your property borders wildlands, vacant lots, or other areas that serve as a source of gophers, you can expect gophers to reinvade regularly. Be prepared to take immediate control action when they do; it is easier, cheaper, and less time-consuming to control one or two gophers than to wait until the population builds up to the point where the gophers are causing excessive damage.

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/soaps.htm

INSECT CONTROL WITH SOAPS AND DETERGENTS
Soaps have been used to control insects for over 200 years. Recently, there has been a great increase in interest and use of these products. This change is doe to a better understanding of how to use soaps most effectively for pest control and a desire of many consumers to try insecticides that are easier and safer to use than many currently available alternatives.

How soaps and detergents kill insects is still poorly understood. In most cases, control results from disruption of the cell membranes of the insect. Soaps and detergents may also remove the protective waxes that cover the insect, causing death through excess loss of water.

Soap and detergents act strictly as contact insecticides, with no residual effect. As a result, to be effective sprays must be applied directly to, and thoroughly cover, the insect.

Several insecticidal soaps are produced and distributed for control of insects and mites. Available under a variety of trade names, the active ingredient of all is “potassium salt of fatty acids”. As such, they are similar chemically to liquid hand soaps. However, there are many features of commercial insecticidal soap products that may distinguish them from dishwashing liquids or soaps that are sometimes substituted. Insecticidal soaps sold for control of insects: 1) are selected to control insects; 2) are selected to minimize potential plant injury; 3) are of consistent manufacture.

Some household soaps and detergents also make effective insecticides. In particular, certain brands of hand soaps and liquid dishwashing detergents can be effective for this purpose. These are also substantially less expensive. However, there is increased risk of plant injury with these products, as they are not selected to be used on plants. (Dry dish soaps and all clothes-washing detergents are too harsh to be used on plants.) Also many soaps and detergents are poor insecticides. Identifying safe and effective soap-detergent combinations for insect control requires experimentation. Regardless of what product is used, soap-detergent sprays are always applied diluted with water, typically at a concentration of around 2 percent or 3 percent Table 1.

Soap - Detergent Sprays
Most research with insecticidal soaps and detergents has involved control of plant pests. In general, these sprays are most effective against most small soft-bodied arthropods, such as aphids, young scales, whiteflies, psyllids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Larger insects, such as caterpillars, sawflies, and beetle larvae generally are immune to soap sprays. However, a few large insects, including boxelder bugs and Japanese beetles, are susceptible.

Insecticidal soaps are considered selective insecticides because of their minimal adverse effects on other organisms. Lady beetles, green lacewings, pollinating bees and most other beneficial insects are not susceptible to soap sprays. Predatory mites, often important in control of spider mites, are an exception, a beneficial group of organisms easily killed by soaps.

One of the most serious potential drawbacks to the use of soap-detergent sprays is their potential to cause plant injury (phytotoxicity). Certain plants are sensitive to these sprays and may be seriously injured. For example, most commercial insecticidal soaps list plants such as hawthorn, sweet pea, cherries, and plum as being sensitive to soaps. Portulaca and certain tomato varieties also are sometimes damaged by insecticidal soaps. the risk of plant damage is greater with homemade preparations of household soaps or detergents. When in doubt, test soap-detergent sprays for phytotoxicity problems on a small area a day or two before an extensive area is treated.

Plant injury can be reduced by using sprays that are diluted more than the 2 percent to 3 percent suggested on label instructions. Also, wash plants within a couple of hours after the application to reduce leaf injury. Limiting the number of soap applications can also be important, as leaf damage can accumulate with repeated exposure.

However, because of the short residual action, repeat applications at relatively short intervals (four to seven days) to control certain pests, such as spider mites and scale crawlers. Also, application must be thorough with complete wetting of the pest. This usually involves spraying undersides of leaves and other protected sites. Insects that can not be completely wetted, such as aphids within curled leaves, will not be controlled. Environmental factors also can affect use of soaps. In particular, soaps (but not synthetic detergents) are affected by the presence of minerals found in “hard” water, which results in chemical changes producing insoluble soaps (soap scum). Control is decreased if hard water sources are used. Insecticidal soaps may also be more effective when applied during periods when drying is not overly rapids, such as early or late in the day.

Soaps and detergents can offer a relatively safe and easy means to control many insect pests. However, there are limitations and hazards associated with their use, as with all pesticides. By understanding these limitations, and carefully following all label instructions, these products can be used optimally.

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/vinegar.htm

FLAVORED VINEGARS AND OILS

Flavored vinegars and oils add excitement to salads, marinades and sauces. They also make special gifts, provided a few simple precautions are followed. Of the two, flavored vinegars are easiest and safest to make. Because vinegar is high in acid, it does not support the growth of Clostridium (C.) botulinum bacteria. However, some vinegars may support the growth of Escherichia (E.) coli bacteria. Infused oils have the potential to support the growth of C. botulinum bacteria; therefore, these products may cause great harm if not made and stored properly. By following the procedures below, both types of products can be safely prepared and used.

FLAVORED VINEGARS
Pre-preparation
Containers. Select and prepare containers first. Use only glass jars or bottles that are free of cracks or nicks and can be sealed with a screw-band lid, cap or cork. Wash containers thoroughly, then sterilize by immersing the jars in a pan of hot water and simmering for 10 minutes. Once jars are sterilized, remove from the simmering water and invert on paper towel to dry. Fill while the jars are still warm.

Herb vinegars.
Commercial companies that make herbal vinegars dip the herbs in anti-bacterial agents that are not readily available to consumers. As an alternative, briefly dip the fresh herbs in a sanitizing bleach solution of 1 teaspoon household bleach per 6 cups (1-1/2 quarts) of water, rinse thoroughly under cold water and pat dry. For best results, use only the best leaves and flowers, eliminating any brown, discolored, trampled or nibbled parts of the herbs. Fresh herbs are best picked just after the morning dew has dried. Allow three to four sprigs of fresh herbs or 3 tablespoons dried herbs per pint of vinegar.

Fruit, vegetable and spice vinegars.
Fruits often used to flavor vinegars include strawberries, raspberries, pears, peaches and the peel of oranges or lemons. Allow the peel of one orange or lemon or 1 to 2 cups of fruit per pint of vinegar flavored. For variation, try fruits in combination with herbs or spices. Vegetables, such as garlic cloves and jalapeno peppers, can also be used to add zest to vinegars.

Thread these on thin bamboo skewers for easy insertion and removal. Thoroughly wash all fruits and vegetables with clean water and peel, if necessary, before use. Small fruits and vegetables may be halved or left whole; large ones may need to be sliced or cubed.

Vinegar selection.
Use only high quality vinegars. Even the strongest herbs cannot diminish the sharp flavors of some vinegars. The type of vinegar to use as the base depends on what is being added. Fruits blend well with apple cider vinegar. Distilled white vinegar is best with delicate herbs and wine vinegar works well with garlic and tarragon. Do be aware, however, that wine and rice vinegars contain protein that provides an excellent medium for bacterial growth, if not stored properly.

Preparation
To make flavored vinegars, place the prepared herbs, fruits or spices in the sterilized jars, being careful to avoid over-packing the bottles. Use three to four sprigs of fresh herbs, 3 tablespoons of dried herbs or 1 to 2 cups of fruit or vegetable per pint of vinegar to be flavored. Heat vinegar to just below boiling (190 degrees F). Then pour over the herbs and cap tightly. Allow to stand for three to four weeks for the flavor to develop fully. Then, strain the vinegar through a damp cheesecloth or coffee filter one or more times until the vinegar is no longer cloudy. Discard the fruit, vegetable and/or herbs. Pour the strained vinegar into a clean sterilized jar. Add a sprig or two of fresh herbs or berries that have been sanitized as described above. Seal tightly. Store in the refrigerator for the freshest retention of flavors.

The flavoring process can be shortened by a week or so by bruising or coarsely chopping the herbs and fruits before placing in the bottles and adding the hot vinegar. To test for flavor development, place a few drops of the flavored vinegar on some white bread and taste. When the flavor is appropriate, strain through damp cheesecloth and continue as described above.

Storage and Use
For the best retention of flavors, store vinegars in the refrigerator or a cool dark place. If properly prepared, flavored vinegars should retain good quality for two to three months in cool room storage and for six to eight months in refrigerated storage. Some people enjoy displaying pretty bottles of herb and fruit vinegars on a kitchen window sill. If left out for more than a few weeks, these bottles are best considered as decoration and not used in food preparation. Flavored vinegars can be used in any recipe that calls for plain vinegar. They add zest to marinades for meats and fish and interesting flavors to dressings for salads, pastas and vegetables.

FLAVORED OILS
Infused oils and oil-based mixtures of garlic, herbs or dried tomatoes can pose a health hazard if not kept refrigerated. There have been a number of cases of botulism poisoning traced to commercially and home prepared mixtures of garlic-in-oil that were not refrigerated. Refrigeration is necessary because all other conditions that favor the growth of C. botulinum are met: low acid environment with pH higher that 4.6, anaerobic conditions (oil), food and moisture source (garlic), not boiled before eating. Vegetables and herbs in oil. Less has been documented on the dangers of storing whole chilies, fleshy vegetables or herbs in oil, but they, too, are best made fresh with leftovers stored in the refrigerator for use within three weeks. Vegetables have a high water activity level which further encourages the growth of C. botulinum bacteria in an anaerobic environment. Even when dried, there is still the potential for risk, unless the vegetable has been acidified to a pH of 4.6 or lower. Dried tomatoes in oil are less of a safety concern than other mixtures in oil because the pH of tomatoes is generally 4.6 or lower. In addition, by drying the tomatoes, conditions become even less favorable to growth of C. botulinum due to a decrease in water activity. Dried herbs in oil also are less of a safety concern because of their low water activity. However, to insure safety it is recommended that all tomato in oil and herb in oil products be stored at refrigerator temperatures.

Avoid Rancidity
In addition to reducing the potential for growth of C. botulinum bacteria, storing flavored oils in the refrigerator helps keep the oils from becoming rancid. A putrid “off” odor indicates the development of rancidity. All fats and oils will become rancid given enough exposure to air, sunlight and heat. Polyunsaturated fats, like vegetable oils, are especially prone to such deterioration. Eating rancid food won’t make you sick, but it may be unhealthy in the long run. Rancid fat contains chemicals called peroxides and aldehydes that can damage cells and may even encourage cholesterol to clog arteries.

It is important to note that rancidity and the presence of botulinal toxins are not necessarily related. Toxin may be present without any hint of an off-odor. Likewise, an off-odor does not necessarily indicate the presence of botulism toxin. It does, however, indicate the product may have been left for long periods at room temperature, which would promote the growth of C. botulinum. Therefore, it’s best to discard any oil-based mixtures that have become rancid so they’re out of reach of humans or animals.

Fresh Dill Vinegar
8 sprigs of fresh dill
4 cups (1 quart) white vinegar
Wash dill and dip in solution of 1 teaspoon household bleach in 6 cups water. Rinse thoroughly under cool running water. Place dill in sterilized quart jar. Heat vinegar to just below the boiling point (190 degrees F); pour over dill. Cap tightly and allow to stand in cool, dark place for three to four weeks. Strain vinegar, discarding dill. Pour vinegar into clean sterilized bottles with tight fitting covers. Add a fresh sprig of cleaned and sanitized dill, if desired. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 1 quart.

Herbal Vinegar
4 cups red wine vinegar
8 sprigs fresh parsley
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
1 teaspoon rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon sage leaves
Thoroughly wash herbs and dip in solution of 1 teaspoon household bleach in 6 cups water. Rinse thoroughly under cool running water. Place dill in sterilized quart jar. Heat vinegar to just below the boiling point (190 degrees F); pour over dill. Cap tightly and allow to stand in cool, dark place for three to four weeks. Strain vinegar, discarding dill. Pour vinegar into clean sterilized bottles with tight fitting covers. Add a fresh sprig of cleaned and sanitized parsley, if desired. Store in the refrigerator. Makes 1 quart.

Browse chla

Also try Simple Search

This is a complete bibliography of books and journals in Core Historical Literature of Agriculture, organized by both author and title or by publication year:

A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z | Non-alphabetic

1620-1639 | 1640-1659 | 1720-1739 | 1800-1819 | 1820-1839 | 1840-1859 | 1860-1879 | 1880-1899 | 1900-1919 | 1920-1939 | 1940-1959 | 1960-1979 | 1980-1999

Journal Title List

Recent Additions

* American bee journal . [Hamilton, Ill., etc. : Dadant & Sons] (1861 - 1881)
* Breeding and improvement of farm animals Rice, Victor Arthur. New York [etc.] : McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc., 1926
* Climate: a treatise on the principles of weather and climate Kendrew, W. G. Oxford : The Clarendon Press, 1930.
* The farmers’ alliance history and agricultural digest Dunning, N. A. Washington, D.C. : Alliance Publishing Company, 1891.
* Feeding the family Rose, Mary Swartz. New York : The Macmillan Company, 1917.
* Textiles and clothing Watson, Kate Heintz; American School of Home Economics. Chicago : American School of Home Economics, 1907.
* Theoretical soil mechanics Terzaghi, Karl. London : Chapman and Hall, c1943.

Click here to visit the Cornell University Home Page

Albert R. Mann Library. 2009 . Core Historical Literature of Agriculture (CHLA). Ithaca, NY: Albert R. Mann Library, Cornell University. http://chla.library.cornell.edu (Version January 2005).

http://chla.library.cornell.edu/c/chla/browse.html

The Core Historical Literature of Agriculture (CHLA) is a core electronic collection of agricultural texts published between the early nineteenth century and the middle to late twentieth century. Full-text materials cover agricultural economics, agricultural engineering, animal science, crops and their protection, food science,forestry, human nutrition, rural sociology, and soil science. Scholars have selected the titles in this collection for their historical importance. Their evaluations and 4,500 core titles are detailed in the seven volume series The Literature of the Agricultural Sciences, Wallace C. Olsen, series editor.

Current online holdings: Pages: 1,011,930 Books: 2,047 (2,116 Volumes) Journals: 12 (510 Volumes)

http://chla.library.cornell.edu/

The Cornell University Library Windows on the Past is a grouping of selected digital collections of historical significance. These collections are open to the general public (unless otherwise noted). The Cornell University Library offers a wide variety of digital repositories and collections. For a complete listing visit our Registry of Digital Collections. (NOTE: = Cornell University Access Only )

http://cdl.library.cornell.edu/

http://www.lhf.org/cgi-bin/gygactivity.pl?50

1900 Butter Churning

It was common for most farmers in 1900 to own 4-5 “milch” cows. Each cow needed milking every morning and evening. Milk was stored in a cool place until it could be separated. By 1900, cream separators such as a cold-water cream separator were available for purchase.

After milking the cow, the milk is strained to remove any debris. It is put into a separator and left in a cool place, often in a root cellar, where the cream rises to the top of the mixture. Next, the fatty cream is skimmed off the top, leaving behind “skimmed milk.” The cream is poured into a churn where it is agitated by a wooden dasher that it is pumped up and down. The cream turns into frothy whipped cream and then butter.

The new butter will spoil if it is not separated from the buttermilk. The buttermilk can be saved and used for baking. The butter must be rinsed with water several times to remove the buttermilk. The butter is then salted and stored for future use.

Try this activity at home!

Ingredients needed:
-small clear jars with lids
-whipping cream
-cheesecloth
-bowls, spoons
-bread, salt, crackers (optional)

1. Fill each jar about half full with room-temperature heavy cream and fasten the lid on securely.
2. Take turns shaking the jar with a steady motion. After about 20-30 minutes of shaking, a lump of butter should form. (Note: Don’t shake the jar too fast, or the butter will not form).
3. Once the butter has formed, pour the mixture through the cheesecloth into a bowl; this liquid is the buttermilk.
4. Rinse the lumps of butter under cold water until the water runs clear.
5. Press the butter with spoons to make it smooth. Mix-in about 1/4 teaspoon of salt.
6. Sample the butter on bread or crackers!

http://www.i4at.org/surv/honey.htm

Using and Storing Honey
Using Honey

One pound of honey is about 1-1/3 cups. A 3-pound container holds about 4 cups honey.

Honey can be used in many ways. It makes a good spread for breads, muffins and biscuits and a tasty sandwich filling when mixed with dried fruits, peanut butter or cottage cheese. Honey can be used as a sweetener for fruits and beverages. It also can be used in any food that is sweetened, including frozen desserts, baked products, meat glazes, custards, frostings, pie fillings, cobblers, puddings, candied vegetables and salad dressings.

Some recipes use honey as the main sweetener; others use sugar. Honey can be used to replace some of the sugar called for in many recipes. Use these guidelines for cakes and cookies.

Cakes: One-half of the sugar in a cake recipe can be replaced with honey. For every 1 cup of sugar replaced, leave out 1/4 cup of liquid.

Cookies: The amount of sugar that can be replaced with honey varies with the kind of cookie being made. For brownies, half of the sugar can be replaced. For fruit bars, honey can replace two-thirds of the sugar called for in the recipe. Only one-third of the sugar can be replaced in gingersnaps.

When making either cakes or cookies, first mix the honey with the fat or the liquid. Then mix it thoroughly with the other ingredients. If this is not done, a soggy layer will form on the top of the baked product.

Products made with honey brown faster than foods made with other sweeteners. So when you bake products made with honey, set the oven temperature 25 degrees F lower than what is indicated in the recipe.
Storing Honey

Honey keeps best in a dry place at a cool temperature between 50 and 70 degrees F. Keep it in a tightly covered container so it does not absorb moisture or odors from the air.

Honey will start to form crystals as it gets older or if it is refrigerated. To make it liquid again, place the honey in an open container in a pan of warm water until it is clear. Do not have the honey in a plastic container when you set it in the warm water.
Health and Honey

Honey provides energy to the body. The amounts of nutrients in honey, however, are small when the number of calories in honey are considered.

Honey cannot be used as a substitute for cane or beet sugar in a sugar-restricted diet. Honey is composed of the same basic parts as regular sugar, and the body uses it in the same way.

Honey and products made with honey must not be fed to infants younger than one year, because honey can cause “infant botulism.” Spores of the bacteria that cause botulism are present in honey. When these spores get into the intestinal tract of an infant, they grow and produce a toxin that results in serious illness and death. Remember that these spores in honey are not destroyed by regular cooking or baking methods.

http://www.i4at.org/surv/solarchm.htm

Solar Chimney Dehydrator

A Solar chimney dehydrator can be constructed with any number of designs, adjusted to meet whatever needs you have.

Materials needed for your solar chimney dehydrator:

2x4’s, 2x2’s, 1x4’s, 1x2’s, 3/4 inch plywood, weather stripping, sheet metal, Plexiglas, cardboard, black paint, screws & nails, hinges, door latches, screen, and food safe screen. Quantity of materials will be determined on the size of dehydrator you build. This dehydrator cabinet measures 5 1/2 ft. tall by 3 ft. wide.

Important: The collector should be angled between 35 and 45 degrees, facing south.

Adding the walls... There are three walls and one door, the walls are north, south and west, leaving the east as the door. There is also an inside wall that serves as a vent. The North inside wall panel is 4 inches shorter than the outside wall to allow for the vent at the bottom. See diagram below.

The full plans and diagrams are at this link, it at first looks like my home built food dehydrator, except that mine is not a solar dehydrator.

Mine has a regular old electric stove burner for the heat and a small fan for blowing the air, like a car fan?

The shelves are screens in frames and they work fine.

The front door is Plexiglas glass and is an inch or more short for the moist air to leave.

granny

Take a good look at this plan, you may want to remember it some day, I had not seen it before and it looks doable.
granny

http://www.i4at.org/surv/stove.htm

This primitive “kitchen range” is often used in survival skills training programs given to missionaries who intend to set up housekeeping among native tribes far from civilization. Therefore, the practical cooker/baker could serve nicely in any remote area where supplies are scarce and the most common building materials are stone, earth, wood, and salvageable scrap metal.

The first step is to build a platform, which simply raises the cooking area to a convenient working height. This can be done by driving short poles into the ground and tying crosspieces to the uprights with a generous amount of baling twine. When that’s finished, top the framework with branches that will be sturdy enough to.provide a base for the heavy stove.

Next, construct the bottom and three sides of a stone or brick box, open at one end, that will later hold the fire. To do so, place a covering of stone on the raised platform and cement the rocks together with clay or mortar, keeping the surface as smooth as possible so it’will be easier to clean. Then build up the sides of the firebox as you would a wall and seal all the chinks. To provide a cooking surface, cover about two-thirds of the top of the box (toward the open,end) with a flat plate. A cast-iron sheet is best, but you can use steel or even a large, flat stone. Remember, though, that only hard, unlayered rock will do, and the slab must be dried out by heating it slowly. This eliminates the risk of its cracking or even exploding during exposure to intense heat.

Oven

Now it’s time to build the oven over the portion of the firebox that’s not covered by the cooking surface. Place a whole 16-gallon drum inside a 30-gallon drum that’s had the front end removed. a section cut out along its length, and a hole cut for the chimney. Cradle the smaller drum with! the larger one with rocks and support both containers with stones at the ends. The larger barrel serves as a form for the brick or stone that surrounds the entire oven except for the door and chimney openings. Before reaching the chimney, the smoke and hot gases pass through the space between the two drums, heating the oven.

The oven must be fitted with a door. This job is most easily handled with an oxyacetylene torch, but if necessary, it can be done with hand tools. Cut a square hole in the metal end of the 16-galIon drum, make a cover (each of its dimensions should be about an inch bigger that those of the opening), then- with hinges at the bottom so it can swing out of the way-attach the door to the oven and make or buy a latch for the closure.

The chimney, which consists of a pipe set into a hole in the arch above the oven, must fit tightly and be cemented with clay or mortar. You’ll also need to put a damper in the pipe so that the draft, and therefore the amount of heat produced, can be controlled.

Of course, this is just one possible form of simple oven. The Indians of the Southwest, and other people around the world achieve the same results by building a stone beehive-shaped structure, with an opening in the front near the bottom and a smoke hole at the top. This chamber is heated through for a couple of hours, the ashes are raked out, and the stored-up heat in its stones can then be used for baking. This form of oven is a little more awkward to use, but it does work well. Although the Indian version is usually built on the ground and therefore requires a lot of bending over, raising the stove on a platform eliminate the need for stooping.

Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.