The Ta Prohm temple where the jungle eats into the ruins. -- The Straits Times
Posted on 06/24/2005 10:48:17 PM PDT by nickcarraway
When they heard that I was going to Cambodia, my friends and family first worried about my safety, and then reminded me to take lots of pictures of Angkor Wat.
They told me that whenever they read something about the country, the reports were more often than not about bombings and crime.
But after my recent five-day holiday, I discovered that the country, which has been ravaged for years by civil war, is peaceful.
Incidentally, the hostage drama in an international school in Siem Reap happened after I came back, but I know that it was just a one-off unfortunate incident.
Cambodia has much more to offer than its famous religious monument.
But no tourist will want to miss the majesty of Angkor Wat, the largest temple in the country and hailed as the zenith of Khmer architecture.
Believed to be built in the 12th century to honour the Hindu deity Vishnu, its five imposing towers are surrounded by a moat measuring 1.5km by 1.3km.
To get there, I took a two-hour flight from Singapore to Siem Reap.
But it was the less celebrated Ta Prohm temple, a 10-minute drive from Angkor Wat, which took my breath away.
The temple is the only one in the area untouched by archaeologists and where the jungle eats hungrily into the ruins.
Sunlight filters softly through the tree crowns onto hollowed corridors and giant roots grip its crumbling walls.
It is less bustling and has the sort of contemplative ambience that makes one quiet or talk in a hushed whisper.
Nature is making some sort of statement here but I am not sure what. Perhaps it is a futile attempt to hide the treasure from the prying eyes of secular tourists.
Another temple that surpasses Angkor Wat, in my opinion, is Banteay Srei. As it is cut out largely of the more weather-resistant pink sandstones, compared to the grey ones at Angkor Wat, more of its lavish architecture is intact.
The intricate three-dimensional images chiselled in the wall depict gods, kingdoms and nature.
For a stark contrast to Cambodia's rich cultural past, take a one-hour internal flight to Phnom Penh.
The city with a population of one million is still underdeveloped. Except for the stretch of road to the airport, there are no traffic lights and motorcycles far outnumber cars.
As far as luxury hotels are concerned, Cambodia lags behind Thailand but is fast catching up. There is even a new casino.
One highlight was an idyllic boat trip across the Mekong River at sunset.
I was warned about persistent beggars maimed by land mines, rampant prostitution and dangerous touts, but I did not meet many.
Cambodians are simple and friendly, making interaction with them a rewarding experience. They wave and smile easily, and seem to have risen above the aftermath of the dark Khmer Rouge rule in the 1970s which claimed millions of lives.
I spotted the old man pictured on the cover of a Lonely Planet book on the country. He was selling handicrafts in the Ta Prohm temple.
He looked familiar, and when I approached him and showed him the book cover, he smiled and actually took out the broom with which he had posed with.
That sparked a mini scramble among other tourists for picture-taking with him.
The Killing Field mass grave and S21 genocide museum, a former Khmer Rouge prison and torture centre at Phnom Penh, is a must, if only to remind all humans what never to do.
The graphic exhibits gave me nightmares that night.
I reckon that as tourism is still in its infancy, Cambodians are genuinely curious and the profit motive is not strong.
Now is the perfect time to visit before the place turns into another crowded resort where residents and tourists try to get as much bang for their buck - forgetting the wonders that set Cambodia apart.
Buy and chow
Five things to buy in Cambodia
Shopaholics will not be kept too busy in Cambodia. Department stores are unheard of and local markets sell similar low quality merchandise.
The domestic currency is the riel (4,000 riel to US$1) but the greenback is preferred everywhere.
Credit cards are not accepted except at banks and airports.
For souvenirs, look for local handicrafts.
1. Krama: Usually made of cotton and in checked design, this scarf is as versatile as the sarong. Cambodians wrap it around their neck, carry their things with it and use it as a towel.
2. Silk: There are silk farms and factories where silk is handwoven and dyed with natural colours from plants and minerals.
3. Carvings: Made of wood, silver or sandstone, the carvings are fine replicas of those found at Angkor Wat.
4. Rattan goods: Rattan is woven into baskets, hats and mats.
5. Paintings: Many artists try their hand at drawing Angkor Wat. The upmarket art gallery chain Happy Cambodia by French-Canadian Stef is recommended.
Five things to eat in Cambodia
NOT exactly a gourmet paradise, Cambodia is influenced by the cuisines in Vietnam and Thailand.
Freshwater seafood caught from the Mekong River is a big feature in menus.
1. Crickets: Caught from rice fields, then deep-fried and salted, they taste like ikan bilis. One serving costs US$0.50 (S$0.84).
2. Fruit: Juicy mangoes and pomelos are in season now.
3. Ice cream: A unique creation sandwiched between bread and topped with Carnation condensed milk.
4. Angkor beer: The national beer (one bottle costs US$2 in a restaurant) is light and refreshing but not as popular as Singapore's Tiger Beer there.
5. French loaf: Piles of crusty baguettes on streetside stalls are the most tangible legacy of the former French colonial rule. Cheap and yummy. US$1 buys four loaves.
Yeah...I remember my first beer...
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