Much has changed since Ben's Chili Bowl opened nearly 50 years ago on a bustling D.C. strip known as America's Black Broadway for its thriving black-owned shops and theaters. Back then, the red-and-white diner was a popular hangout for black bankers, doctors and blue-collar workers who lived and worked along U Street in Northwest. Even jazz greats Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald could be found devouring chili half-smokes and milkshakes after performing at nearby clubs. Now, on some days, the crowd at the D.C. landmark is mostly white, reflecting a neighborhood metamorphosis that has brought in high-end condominiums and businesses...