Posted on 02/13/2018 5:05:19 PM PST by Vendome
So, I drained my battery and got a jump start.
Fantastic! I can get back on the road!
Wrong! The warning light for ABS module (AdvanceTrac®) and the electric power assist steering came on and I had no power steering.
No problem, I went home and began researching what the problem might be. Maybe it was a short?
For $1.38?
I’ll try it...
Yeah
Net neutrality....pffft!!!
LOL!
Bingo...
Where do you get the software to go with it?
When you disconnect your battery to reboot the computer, all your settings on your radio, etc., are cleared out.
When you use the scanner to clear the fault, everything else is undisturbed.
After the washer blew up I bought an outlet surge suppressor just for the washer.
The $40 dollars seemed like cheep insurance.
Then a few years later I had to replace the main breaker box after a tree falling took out the drop line on my house so I had a surge suppressor put on the new box.
From the Android Play Store. The free versions work fine.
It’s actually $3.75 when you select the scanner from the drop-down list. A lot of the listings are tricky that way.
The backup screen still works—but my wife still manages to hit things—like the garage door.
Nice...
Sure miss our ‘57 Bel Air, we restored it to looking and running new, husband did body work and painted it the stock colors, using Turquoise/White lacquer, like glass. But ran out of room juggling cars for garage space, and couldn’t go anywhere without worrying about parking/leaving it for any time. Had people asking me about it every time I drove it, met lots of nice folks. We went on to do lots of 4-wheeling and other activities, but just cruising in the ‘57 had been the best!
I’m in the market for a washing machine to go with my 1927 Maytag engine...
I hope this works for you....!
Your description brought back memories, and not in a good way.
I had a 2009 truck which was the first year that Ford introduced EPAS (electronic steering) module to their F150 platform. It last all of 24k miles before giving up the ghost and getting it replaced under warranty.
The replacement EPAS lasted to about 38k and after a lot of haggling paid $500 out of pocket, and Ford covered the rest of the $1600 pricetag.
Soon afterwards I got rid of that truck (and Ford) and switched over to a Toyota 4Runner which has been great so far.
There are a lot of problems with the Ford EPAS system.
Remember when products made in America would last forever?
If it did break it was easily to locate parts and repair it.
It appears now they just want to soak you on repairs until you get fed up and buy a new one. Think of all the time, energy, and materials are wasted. You want to stop global warming? This is a good place to start!
There may be something in the owner’s manual which tells you how to get back to the factory settings.
This happens to me all the time. Just this week my 03 suburban went into limp mode.. tps was the code.
With an obd computer, reset it. Also saw that voltage was wonky, and the tps wasn’t tolerant of the voltage. A 1200 dollar repair avoided because I got to simply reset stuff.
My Mercedes too... giving me tons of transmissions codes. Turns out to be a loose connection on the transfer case. That was going to be a financial MASSACRE.. but with some calm troubleshooting, free repair.
All good now, baby...
Reminds me of the time my car’s battery kept running down. It turns out the switch for the glove compartment light was defective, keeping the light on. Parts alone was 80 bucks. I decided instead to remove the glove compartment light — problem solved.
too long to explain, but a z28 board explained that it was a VAT problem (chip in ignition key). Cost me under $5 in resisters and started right up.
I owned a 1992 Honda Accord LX. The transmission was stuck in one gear. I had to drive in the right lane and the big 18 wheelers were passing me by going uphill....
I searched and searched and found a forum where people with the same issue were being told to replace that part or this part or the whole transmission. It was going to cost you a lot.
The last post was the fix and it was a free repair.
Pull the fuse out that kept electricity running to the radio when the engine was off. It also powered the computer that ran the transmission under the floorboard on the passenger side.
I pulled the fuse under the hood, waited a minute then plugged back in and went on a drive. Running like new. I had to do this twice while I owned the car from ‘99 to 2014.
Now I own a ‘new’ 2003 Honda Accord LX 4cyl. Do not buy the 6cyl because it has yep transmission problems.
I bet transmission shops knew of the fix but charged unsuspecting customers a fortune to “fix”.
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