Posted on 02/13/2018 5:05:19 PM PST by Vendome
So, I drained my battery and got a jump start.
Fantastic! I can get back on the road!
Wrong! The warning light for ABS module (AdvanceTrac®) and the electric power assist steering came on and I had no power steering.
No problem, I went home and began researching what the problem might be. Maybe it was a short?
I keep one of these OBD Bluetooth adapters in my car. Combined with the Torque app on my phone I can see everything that is going on with my car's computer and reset codes. About $20.
In the long run, all fixes are temporary.
The symptom was that Linda Blair was in control while the vehicle was parked. Came up with a low tech way for owners to verify the module was bad.
I knew autozone did it for free - glad to know OReilly also does it for free. The local shop wants only $80. Why get it for free when I can pay $80. /s
Kicker; we worked on engineers' MK VII's the Dearborne plant parking lot.
I kicked their a** on the KISS principle.
I have a ‘97 LSC. Haven’t had the problem you mention, but sharing your diagnosis method could be useful at some time, if it’s not a bother.
When I need to reboot the kitchenaid I turn off the breaker for an hour or two.
Cheap unless you have to replace the computer board that is.
When we bought a new washing machine a few years ago I tried to get my wife to go with the old fashioned electro-mechanical timer controlled machine.
She would not go for it she had to have the newest, high efficiency computer controlled machine.
About two years later there is a storm came through our area and caused power surge that burned out the machines computer board and we end up replacing the machine, again.
An electro-mechanical timer would not have been harmed by a power surge and would have cost about half what the computer controlled machine cost. Maybe it would have used more water and maybe not. I have read reviews about the machine recently that gives me doubts.
The machine also seems to take forever to do a load of cloths compare to the old machine.
Symptoms is everything for diagnosis.
By design, so nothing is reparable.
Waze does a better job and is up-to-date so I bought a bracket and use my phone. Still ticks me off though.
I replaced the battery on our 2015 Subaru Outback and the electric windows malfunctioned. A youtube quick fix saved me a trip to the dealer. There was a special reset sequence to do. All works fine now.
Just some real quirky stuff with these new fangled cars.
Do you have the big radio slot in the dash? Called double din, it’s about 5x7 inch. I replaced a radio In my wife’s 4 runner with a pioneer touch screen. It has a GPS add on for 75 bucks extra. I have a GPS so I passed. Did put in a backup camera. Total about 350 and the sound is great. And a full screen backup camera is worth its weight...
I replaced the $200 ignition key in the 4 runner for 19 bucks. Turns out the 4 runner has a key programmer built right in the ignition key switch. I bought a blank from Amazon and with YouTube help got it done in 5 minutes. Love that 4 runner.
ping
Then if parked or driven one end falls then there is a leak of front struts or rear air springs
There are other problems that can be related to previously corrected air leaks.
Our power surges caused our dishwasher failure. They have also taken out a range and two TVs. I am too cheap to put a surge protector in our main panel.
“No, car companies dont build in traps intentionally to cost you money.”
OH, contraire, mon frere. In the late 80s and early 90s, Chrysler vehicles had a check engine light that was programmed to come on at a certain mileage. In the late 80s vehicle, you could reset it by taking out the instrument cluster, removing a 9 volt battery, and depressing a set of contacts and holding it for a while. On the early 90s Chryslers, the only way to reset it was to take it to someone with a programmer and pay them to reset it. It was a very unpopular feature.
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