Liberty, Equality, Gastronomy: Paris via a 19th-Century Guide

The New York Times ^ | November 22, 2009 | TONY PERROTTET

[Cincinna]

A marvelous painting of a gourmand at his table hangs in the Musée Carnavalet in Paris — a portly, pink-faced figure happily gorging on a regal casserole, with a bottle of wine at one elbow and a luscious-looking soufflé at the other. It is traditionally believed to be a portrait of Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent Grimod de la Reynière, an aristocrat notorious in Napoleonic France for gratifying his palate with the same abandon as his contemporary the Marquis de Sade showed in indulging carnal desires. Whether or not the painting is actually Grimod’s likeness, it captures the eccentric, omnivorous spirit that made him not only a gustatory symbol in the Paris of his day, but the grand-père of all modern food writers as well.

Starting in 1803, Grimod, whose family fortune had largely been lost during the Revolution, financed his voracious appetite by writing a series of best-selling guidebooks to the culinary wonders of Paris — its famous delicatessens, pâtissiers and chocolatiers — including the first reviews of an alluring new institution called le restaurant. His Almanachs des Gourmands were something new, the Michelins and Zagats of his era, and their offbeat style reflects the author’s larger-than-life character. Grimod was born in 1758

[Cincinna]

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This a wonderful guide to Post Revolutionary France. One can still have a coffe and dessert, or a drink at Cafe Procope, where Lafayette and Ben Franklin dined.

Well worth printing and saving for that trip to Paris.

THE REVOLUTION, HE ATE HIS WAY THROUGH IT

WHERE TO EAT

Le Grand Véfour, 17, rue de Beaujolais, 75001; 33-1-42-96-56-27; www.grand-vefour.com.

Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil, 75002; 33-1-42-33-50-29; www.aurocherdecancale.fr.

Le Procope, 13, rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, 75006; 33-1-40-46-79-00; www.procope.com.

Lapérouse, 51, Quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006; 33-1-56-79-24-31; www.laperouse.fr.

La Cordonnerie, 20, rue St.-Roch, 75001; 33-1-42-60-17-42.

WHERE TO SHOP

Mustards: Maille, 8, Place de la Madeleine, 75008; 33-1-40-15-06-00; www.maille.us.

Chocolates: Debauve & Gallais, 30, rue des Saints-Pères, 75007; 33-1-45-48-54-67; www.debauve-et-gallais.com.

Pâtisserie: Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil, 75002; 33-1-42-33-38-20; www.stohrer.fr.

Gastronomic literature: Librairie Rémi Flachard, 9, rue du Bac, 75007; 33-1-42-86-86-87.

[Lucius Cornelius Sulla]

Would there be an updated English version of this, for enjoyment of those who can’t travel to Paris.

[05 Mustang GT Rocks]

Thanks, Cincinna. Wish I had this last spring, nevertheless
Le Maison Blanc turned out to be a wonderful restaurant. Would have loved to dine in one of the places from the post-revolutionary times.
Just happened to see 2 days ago a program on Ovation TV about Paris and the lady showed Le Grand Vefour. Last night I was trying to remember the name and voila, saw your post today. :)

[SunkenCiv]

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[Cincinna]

Unfortunately, most of these very early guides were French only. From what I understand, they are very rare.

There are a number of books available in English on historic French establishments. I’ll do a search when I have more time, and post the results

[eleni121]

I cannot help but concede that the French create gastronmical wonders with a lot...but blessed are those who can prepare wonders with simple few ingredients...

I just finished translating a cookbook (Greek to English) written by a monk at Mount Athos and he does wonders with meager rations...and no meat eggs or cheese!

[Cincinna]

Sounds extraordinary to me. Please post the title, so we can all enjoy your work.

You are right that French gastronomy can soar to great heights with special ingredients. Simple French cooking, using basic seasonal ingredients, and using every part of the animal , are typical of peasant cooking, and the cooking during very gard times, when there was little available except what one could grow oneself.