How Archaeologists Recreate Ancient Booze (interview with Patrick McGovern)

Slate ^ | Saturday, January 3, 2015 | Linda Geddes (in New Scientist)

[SunkenCiv]

Phrygians were brewing with barley before it was cool.

Resurrecting ancient beers and wines is a subtle alchemy, but Patrick McGovern knows all the tricks. He directs the Biomolecular Archaeology Project for Cuisine, Fermented Beverages, and Health at the University of Pennsylvania Museum. Many of his ancient brews are sold by Dogfish Head brewery in Delaware.

How did you start making ancient drinks?

One of the first we made was the Midas beverage, based on residues in bronze vessels recovered from the Midas tomb in Turkey, which dates from 700 B.C. These pointed to an unusual drink combining wine, barley beer, and mead. There were also food remains in the tomb that suggested a barbecued lamb or goat stew with lentils and spices. We tried to recreate the funerary feast as a way of bringing the past to life.

How do you go about recreating a drink?

People give me either samples of pottery or residues from ancient vessels possibly used for making, storing, or drinking a fermented beverage. I identify the markers of specific natural products: Tartaric acid is a fingerprint compound for grapes in the Middle East, for example, while calcium oxalate points to the presence of barley beer.

What did the Midas beverage taste like?

We knew the three basic components -- grapes, barley, and honey -- but we didn’t know what the bittering agent was. It couldn’t be hops, as they only became available in Europe around 700, so we looked at the eastern Mediterranean spices that would have been available: saffron, cardamom, bitter vetch, cumin.

[SunkenCiv]

Photo by grekoff/Thinkstock

[SunkenCiv]

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[SunkenCiv]

[left that other site]

Ah...that explains the “Phrygian Mode”.

[DannyTN]

Booze the real reason for Archaeology!!!

[Billthedrill]

He directs the Biomolecular Archaeology Project for Cuisine, Fermented Beverages, and Health at the University of Pennsylvania Museum.

Nothing I will ever do will match that resume entry (sob!)...

[Dr. Sivana]

These pointed to an unusual drink combining wine, barley beer, and mead.

Or maybe he used the same vessel for all three, and didn't wash it out between the mead and the chasers. I doubt he had separate wine and beer glasses to complement his bronze vessel.

[rarestia]

If you can get your hands on some Midas Touch, it’s a VERY interesting beer. It’s sweeter than I usually drink, but the earthiness left me intrigued.

[Lurkina.n.Learnin]

What a job!

[Kenny Bunk]

Does not this young alchemist risk a classical-size hangover by mixing the grape and the grain? This is forbidden by the *Bible, according to my grandfather.

But then again, this sort of retro-alcoholic-archaeology could keep many Muslims (May Peace Be Upon Them) from studying the field. It will not, however, keep them from being very angry.

*...his own translation

[SunkenCiv]

He’s been at this a while, that list of older topics? It’s the Patrick McGovern keyword. :’)

[left that other site]

The Phrygian Mode, in music, has a minor second in it which instantly pegs it as exotic, wild, and romantic. It is used by Beethoven in “Turkish March” and is a foundation for hard Rock guitar solos.

A good stiff belt of Phrygian beer may have been its inspiration! LOL!

[PapaBear3625]

I suspect that ancient farmers planted grains more for beer than for bread.

[faithhopecharity]

finally some PRACTICAL work product from these folks... ha!

[Smokin' Joe]

It will not, however, keep them from being very angry.

A double-dose of Thorazine wouldn't take the edge off of Islamic Anger...

[Tainan]

Booze the real reason for Archaeology!!!

Works for me.

[T-Bone Texan]

You, sir, are awesome.

Stay awesome!

PS: I have identified why I love that beer. It’s the absence of hops. An anti IPA, if you will.

[T-Bone Texan]

I LOVE Midas Touch!

Finally, a super expensive beer with no hops that tastes like muscat.

[SunkenCiv]

Thanks!