It was a trip ordained by the heavens. I arrived in Santa Fe—for the umpteenth time since I first saw the Land of Enchantment as a teenager—on the eve of the new moon, one of the darkest nights in the lunar calendar, to join a spring stargazing adventure. Destination: Chaco Culture National Historical Park, a vast Ancestral Puebloan complex located in the state’s northwestern quadrant, a region noted for its dark skies. Taos-based tour company Heritage Inspirations organized the trip in collaboration with Santa Fe’s storied Inn of the Five Graces. It promised archaeology by day and deluxe tented accommodations...