Many Cubans here are fond of saying, "Things are not meant to be understood." After a couple of days, you get a sense of what they're talking about. Havana is a city of contrasts and contradictions, a place where the most spectacularly restored colonial building can stand near two crumbling structures held in place by wooden planks. A place that endured a decade of daily blackouts ... A place where an egg can cost, in Cuban pesos, 15 cents, 90 cents or 1.50 - depending on where it is purchased. Each Cuban receives a monthly allowance of food, referred to...