Whisper to many American eaters the phrase "deli meat," and you'll instantly conjure up images of Oscar Meyer bologna or hunks of mass-produced Boar's Head meat. But say the same thing to an Italian, and you're likely to receive a confused look. Italian culinary culture has a long history of producing cured, fermented, smoked, and otherwise preserved meats, but the word root word for this exercise, delicatessen, actually stems from French, then into English. These days, the French may seem to have a monopoly on the entire menu category (we're talking charcuterie,) but many of the best-aged meats you...