Cruise ships may finally be operating again in much of the world. But not everything about cruising is back to normal. As I’ve experienced first-hand over the past few months on some of the first sailings to resume in North America and several voyages in Europe, the cruise experience has been changed by the COVID-19 pandemic in ways big and small — for both better and worse. Taking a cruise right now involves dealing with new hassles such as pre-cruise COVID-19 testing and once-unthinkable restrictions both onboard ships and on land. But it also brings some unexpected rewards, including experiencing...