LOL, I got one myself for matchs and casual wear. Might stick out on a lawyer suit.
For more formal attire, consider the 'Mirage' from Michaels of Oregon.
I've got two, size 42, I'd like to trade for size 38, thanks to Adkins.
Posted on 01/31/2004 7:36:08 PM PST by GreatOne
I am a prosecutor in a small, rural area. My state has a conceal and carry law. I recently convicted a person who has subsequently made veiled threats against me. Nothing specific enough to charge him with assault or terroristic threats, but enough to take note. He has a drug (meth) background, and is in the process of being civilly committed for his overdosing and engagin in violent behavior after the conviction (misdemeanor charge, requiring him to do 90 days in jail starting in February).
So, I am now seriously thinking about obtaining a handgun. What type of handgun would anyone out there recommend? I have a family with small kids, so would obviously keep this unloaded and up high when at home.
Your suggestions are appreciated.
The best calibers for self defense, IMHO, are .45 ACP and .357 Sig. But they can be difficult to shoot if you're not accustommed to it. .40 caliber is good also, as it splits the difference between the two previously mentioned calibers.
I think with 9mm, you're taking a step down from the other calibers, but if you use a good hollow-point bullet, you should be okay. The good thing about 9mm is that there is less recoil than the other rounds, so follow-up shots are faster.
Once you pick the caliber, you need to pick the operating style you want. There are 3 main ones:
1911- style: You carry this gun 'cocked and locked'. The weapon is cocked, but has a safety to disengage. The advanatages are a light and consistent trigger pull for each shot. The disadvantages are that you have to disengage the safety before firing. If you haven't trained yourself to do this, then forgetting it could be fatal.
DA/SA style: These guns don't have manual safeties. Instead, the trigger is the safety. The hammer is uncocked, until you pull the trigger for the first time. The trigger pull cocks the hammer and fires the round, hence DA= double action. Each subsequent round is "single action" (SA). The DA trigger pull is very heavy, around 12 pounds. You're not going to 'accidentally' pull the trigger. The SA trigger pull is typically around 4 pounds. Advantages are very simply to manipulate and no safety to mess with. Also, most of the guns have an external hammer, so you can place your thumb on it when holstering, to avoid discharging your weapon should it the trigger catch on something when you holster. Disadvantage is you have to master two different trigger pulls.
SA or DA only style: The trigger pull is consistent and the same for each pull of the trigger (around 6 pounds), with no safety except for the trigger. Glocks are an example of this type. Advantages: Same trigger pull for each round. Disadvantages: A lighter first trigger pull increases the chance of inadvertantly pressing the trigger. Also the trigger generally isn't as nice compared to 1911-style or SA/DA triggers in single action.
Personally, I prefer DA/SA, but the main reason for that is since I learned that first and stuck with it.
As far as gun brands go, spend the money and get something good. Like a Kimber or Springfield (1911s); Sigs or H&Ks (DA/SA); or Springfield XD or Glock (DA only).
Try to find a range that rents guns, and go try some out.
You'll also want to spend some money on carry gear, such as a good holster (I recommend the Versa Max 2 by Milt Sparks $100), and a good belt (Wilderness Instructors Belt $30).
If you have more questions, don't hesistate to ask. Folks here are very knowlegdable and helpful.
Another great idea. Go HERE, to find a club near you, then take a class. IDPA is a great way reinforce training and to challenge yourself. Many women compete also. (there is a 90 pound Chinese woman who kicks my ass every week with her Glock 17)
The reason for this is that if you ever need it, there is a real good chance you won't have the time to maunally chamber a round; or your other arm may be busy trying to fight off the attacker.
As for 'unloading at home', I recommend against that also, since it will then be unavailable if you need it. Either carry on your person at home, or put it somewhere that the kids can't get at it (either high up, or in a quick access lock box)
LOL! 10-4. Your wife is mistaken IMO. If the good prosecutor buys exactly what you have listed, he'll do just fine.
Further, I agree with you about revolvers, reliability and they being most suitable for low-time shooters (those who won't get extensive training AND practice often.)
An unloaded weapon is as effective as a rock!
I unloaded my .22 and .38 when the girls were about 4 and 5 yrs old. They had a real fun time playing with them for about ten minutes then boredom set in. I told them the guns were like Mom's jewelry, never even "touch" them without permission! Never ever let a friend into our bedroom or the roof will come down on you, was the warning!
It was about 8 years later when they first asked to go shooting with me. 30 minutes each and then Okay, thanks, Dad. Today, the older one enjoys shooting a .22 rifle, pretty good too. Both of them can handle a revolver and a rifle, ie. load, unload, clean, but I doubt they would actually shoot a burgular unless they were scared of being attacked.
When the kids were little, my wife kept her .38 in the kitchen cabinet behind some boxes of spices. Not likely anyone would go looking in there. LOL
LOL, I got one myself for matchs and casual wear. Might stick out on a lawyer suit.
For more formal attire, consider the 'Mirage' from Michaels of Oregon.
I've got two, size 42, I'd like to trade for size 38, thanks to Adkins.
Don't forget how affordable they are. As cops buy Glocks, great wheel guns come on the used market for $200-300 in .38/.357 to .45
I picked up my S&W 625 in like new condition for $300. I see a few 686 .38/.357 for $300 to $400 all the time.
Depending on your state, you might also want to get a Florida non-resident CCW licence. Then you'll be "legal" in about 25 other states as well.
Since you are asking what to get you are indicating a low familiarity with handguns and a lack of range time in your lifestyle. This makes the revolver an almost imperative. It is possible that you will develop a love of shooting and start regular range practice, but let's not assume that. The semi auto handguns require a higher degree of skill and continuous practice to be really valid for self protection in an emergency (when you don't have time to think about what to do next). With a revolver you just point and pull the trigger, no thinking involved. The .38/.357 snub nose 5 shot is probably the best overall choice for a self defense only gun. A hammerless (concealed hammer actually) is better if you ever put it in a pocket or purse since the hammer won't snag anything while you are pulling it out in a panic situation.
Hollow point ammo is the best choice, but if that is not available to you, use simple 'wadcutter' target bullets: they make a much more severe wound than round nose bullets and are more likely to stop someone with one hit (than a round nose) (these don't work in most semi autos since they don't feed well from the magazine to the chamber without special modifications to the gun). These rounds aren't likely to raise any eyebrows among anti-gunners since they are actually designed to cut a neat round hole in paper targets. A revolver has a realtively long trigger pull so it is important to get a gun in a size that fits your hand, allows an easy reach to the trigger without stretching, and still gives you a full, firm grip on the handle. Try several different ones (shooting each if possible). Women usually find a smaller gun an advantage while men like larger ones. Some men, like myself, need a huge grip to hold a revovler well which makes concealed carry guns less practical in revovlers than in the semi-autos (note for those that wonder about this statement: I find the Glock 21 to be slightly on the small side, my hands are that big).
A gun that is hideen and unloaded is not a good thing in an emergency. You should keep it loaded and in easy access if it is to be of value with someone breaking through the door. A revover should be kept with an empty chamber under the hammer (to prevent discharge if it is caught in a fire as much as any other reason. It isn't nice to shoot a fireman by an unintended discharge). Children are a big consideration, but education, disipline and awareness are the better choice than hiding an unloaded gun. (kids have a way of finding guns and ammo no matter what is tride to prevent it.)
Yep. Another thing I like about revolvers is that, unlike semi-autos, they're unlikely to jam if you don't have a secure hold on your piece or you fire it placed up against the perp's body. .....And since many times gunfights (and fights in general) don't go down clean, and you may end up rolling around on the ground with the perp before you know what's happening, this should always be taken into consideration.
A .357 is hard to beat as a self-defense gun.
I like .44 Spl snubbies as well. (Taurus makes a good one these days). Far less fire and noise than a .357 mag, and it makes a nice big hole.
Now the gun. Okay, a semiauto is going to be better than a revolver for the kids. Here is what you do: Keep it right next to your bed, but keep the magazine and the gun apart. Very few kids have the sheer upper body strength to pull back the slide far enough to chamber a round, even if they knew the mechanics of the act, and tv doesn't teach ALL of this. Having a gun with a magazine disconnect can be a plus (just an opinion freepers hold flames, please) as an extra layer. How old are your kids? I taught my daughter gun safety and nomenclature from the time she was six. Taught her how to shoot at age ten and now she has a Ruger SP101 .357magnum to call her own. I only have to train her fiance to be as good as she is, now. I'll give you a little "exercise" we used to run in the army for the kids sense of gun safety at the end of this post.
Choosing a gun, especially a "first" gun is as personal as choosing a mate. My wife can shoot, but she's not the first person who will save my life...I AM. You've got to fondle a lot of "candidates" at the gun show. Involve your wife in this so she won't get jealous. Maybe look for a gun for HER, too. NOT the same one as yours! TRUST ME ON THIS! When you find the "right one" you'll know it beyond all doubt. It'll just feel right, like "Excalibur" and King Arthur. Your instructor can then teach you to shoot that one well. Generally speaking, you should choose the largest caliber possible that you can consistently "hit" with, because nobody ever died from a loud noise. The smaller the caliber, the more important shot placement becomes. I would advise against anything smaller than a 9mm and have the 45 at the top of the list. My daughter can handle a .357 magnum, and my 45's so recoil really isn't a problem, given a chance to be properly trained. However, I start all of my trainees on a .22 and slowly work them up to whatever caliber they have chosen, using my guns to bring them forward to the proper point so that they can start using their own new gun.
Stopping power these days is more a result of proper ammo than caliber, although good ammo and a .45 is almost unbeatable. All the major manufacturers have good ammo. But I'd go with whatever feeds the best in your gun and whatever produces the best groups. So you may have to spend some $$ figuring that out by shooting. Also, I almost always carry a magazine full of pre-frangible ammo like MagSafe or Glaser when I'm out and about to prevent a TNT (Thru-N-Thru) gunshot wound that may hit an innocent bystander if I get into a conflict of the personal and hostile sort which might also bring a charge or lawsuit after I survive. As a plus, this stuff from MagSafe and Glaser (there are others, but I carry those I've mentioned) is usually low recoil and low flash. But, it ain't cheap! Run enough to know where each round will hit at any given range out to say twenty meters.
The kids: TEACH THEM GUN SAFETY. The first thing is to show them in a dynamic fashion (I'm a professional educator with 15 years experience as well as a certified firearms instructor) because most kids are visual learners. That's why I make kids copy notes instead of letting them study the text, because the act of writing ignites the learning process. They hate it though, lol.
You're in a rural setting, so this should be easy. Take the kids out someplace where it's safe to shoot, even the local police range, if they'll let you do this demonstration. Get a Honeydew melon (green on the inside, yellowish on the exterior and smooth) and have each kid take a "sharpie" permanent marker and draw a face (VERY DETAILED: hair, eyes, ears, etc) and then tell them to concentrate very closely that the face they have drawn is that of their best friend! Next, have them put on eye and ear protection (use the little foam rubber throwaway plugs--protection, yet let some of the sound thru--just enough) and carefully allow them to take hold of the shooter's arm (if you don't think you can pull off a first round hit, get somebody who can) lightly and then totally blow that sucker to teeeeeny tiny pieces with a heavy caliber pistol like a .45 with high velocity defense ammo. Clear the range as safe, go down range and show them the pieces. TELL THEM: "This is what happens when you touch a gun without daddy being present." Next tell them exactly where you keep it and tell them you're trusting them like an adult to keep their friends away from there. It's a family secret. MY daughter used to go postal on her friends if they even got near our room during play times. She never told them why, but she knew the family secret that was where the guns were. She felt like she was being treated as an adult (powerful stuff to a little kid) and she treasured that. NOW, I still kept everything unloaded and LOCKED up except for the gun I had on my person, until I went to bed. You can put key locking deadbolts on your closet door and that will do it.
That belt is a wonderfull thing. It doubles up as an emergency rapelling/evac belt. I've done some near emegency rapells with it when I had to aid a fellow climber, inexperienced and starting to panic, and didn't have time to mess with a harness. Good attachment point to your body if you ever have to do a real quick ice rescue of someone and can't wait for help to arrive. Everyone should own one.
I've had many uses for it as well.
I also like the fact that it's really easy to cinch down or loosen, depeding on what you had for lunch.
The leather belts with a hole every inch or half inch always seemed too tight or not tight enough.
It's unlikely he'll go after you. They can't think beyond 10 secs. The real danger is to anyone that is within his reach in the next 10 secs. It could be freinds and relations, a victim he ges after for cash, or other amusement, or the next LEO that confronts him for his actions. As far as your decision to carry, you should consider not this guy in particular, but the rare wacko you don't know that is this guy's virtual twin.
10-4. However, like any piece of "machinery" look over a used gun thoroughly. Better yet, have a qualified gunsmith take a look. Don't buy a bargain gun only to find it's got problems - isn't in fact reliable without "corrective surgery."
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