Free Greenhouse info; https://permasteader.com/cloud/index.php/s/erJoEN8fDDnrr7j
30 files with anything from building them, general growing in them, heating them, growing specific crops in them.
Free High Tunnel aka Hoop House info; https://permasteader.com/cloud/index.php/s/aZaTSykw9b6Mo3g
33 files similar to greenhouse info.
Almost all are pdf files and preview-able in the cloud software. Most are from various university ag extensions.
Late posting in last week’s thread. My seed starting supplies and methods research. https://freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/4035665/posts?page=68#68
Based me and my situation with a small and slightly drafty place heated with wood only and me wanting standardized equipment due to having a dream of doing a little market gardening one day. Works out to $200 for 4 sq ft of seed starting area but half of that is the heating mats and temp controllers for them which most people probably wouldn’t need. Heat mats without using a controller, keep the trays 10-20 degrees above ambient/room temperature. Mats are $20 and controller is $36.
Diana and I has a little back and forth in subsequent posts and she has a much cheaper way. Jiffy Pellets and whatever trays she has scrounged. Not sure if she uses grow lights or heat.
https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html
Wondering if anyone has been successful in starting seeds in K-cups. If so, what plants worked or didn’t work?
We have enjoyed a bit of a warming trend over the past week here in Central Missouri. It snapped back to cold last night, but most of the snow has melted and the paved roads are clear and dry now. The country roads are a sloppy mess with the freeze/thaw cycles, but that happens every year so we’re used to it.
I’ve been researching greenhouses, and oh my goodness are they ever proud of those things! A high-quality 8’x12’ kit is north of $3200 before tax and shipping.
I did some ciphering this morning and figure I can build the same size, but much sturdier, greenhouse from scratch for under $1500. I’ve got a plan on paper and the materials list calculated. All that’s left to do is go to the lumberyard, place my order, and then build it. I can get the framing done while I’m waiting on the panels to arrive.
If there are no major delays getting the panels I should have it done by salad planting time this spring.
Good Afternoon! :-)
Now. Where’s my coffee?LOL!
Pretty useful as it gives you a range of temps and percentages as opposed to a single date or date range for last frost day. 50% chance of 32 on May 5 and Oct 1 for me. Almanac has me at May 6th for frost free date, https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates
Note: Each of the vegetables listed below links to an individual vegetable plant guide that covers sowing to growing to harvest!
| Vegetable | Start Seeds Indoors (weeks before last spring frost) | Start Seeds Outdoors (weeks before or after last spring frost) | Minimum Soil Temp. to Germinate (°F) | Cold Hardiness | When to Fertilize | When to Water |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Beans | — | Anytime after | 48–50 | Tender | After heavy bloom and set of pods | Regularly, from start of pod to set |
| Beets | — | 3 before to 3 after | 39–41 | Half-hardy | At time of planting | Only during drought conditions |
| Broccoli | 6–8 | 2–3 before | 55–75 | Hardy | Three weeks after transplanting | Only during drought conditions |
| Brussels sprouts | 6–8 | — | 55–75 | Hardy | Three weeks after transplanting | At transplanting |
| Cabbage | 6–8 | 1 before to 1 after | 38–40 | Hardy | Three weeks after transplanting | Two to three weeks before harvest |
| Carrots | — | 3–5 before | 39–41 | Half-hardy | Preferably in the fall for the following spring | Only during drought conditions |
| Cauliflower | 6–8 | 1 before to 1after | 65–75 | Half-hardy | Three weeks after transplanting | Once, three weeks before harvest |
| Celery | 6–8 | — | 60–70 | Tender | At time of transplanting | Once a week |
| Corn | — | 2 after | 46–50 | Tender | When eight to ten inches tall, and again when first silk appears | When tassels appear and cobs start to swell |
| Cucumbers | 2–4 | 1–2 after | 65–70 | Very tender | One week after bloom, and again three weeks later | Frequently, especially when fruits form |
| Lettuce | 4–6 | 1 before to 2 after | 40–75 | Half-hardy | Two to three weeks after transplanting | Once a week |
| Melons | 2–4 | 2 after | 55–60 | Very tender | One week after bloom, and again three weeks later | Once a week |
| Onion sets | — | 4 before | 34–36 | Hardy | When bulbs begin to swell, and again when plants are one foot tall | Only during drought conditions |
| Parsnips | — | 0–3 before | 55–70 | Hardy | One year before planting | Only during drought conditions |
| Peas | — | 4–6 before | 34–36 | Hardy | After heavy bloom and set of pods | Regularly, from start of pod to set |
| Peppers | 8–10 | — | 70–80 | Very tender | After first fruit-set | Once a week |
| Potato tubers | — | 0–2 after | 55–70 | Half-hardy | At bloom time or time of second hilling | Regularly, when tubers start to form |
| Pumpkins | 2–4 | 1 after | 55–60 | Tender | Just before vines start to run, when plants are about one foot tall | Only during drought conditions |
| Radishes | — | 1 before to 1 after | 39–41 | Hardy | Before spring planting | Once a week |
| Spinach | — | 4–6 before | 55–65 | Hardy | When plants are one-third grown | Once a week |
| Squash, summer | 2–4 | 1 after | 55–60 | Very tender | Just before vines start to run, when plants are about one foot tall | Only during drought conditions |
| Squash, winter | 2–4 | 1 after | 55–60 | Tender | Just before vines start to run, when plants are about one foot tall | Only during drought conditions |
| Tomatoes | 6–8 | — | 50–55 | Tender | Two weeks before, and after first picking | Twice a week |
Steve Upson formerly served as a senior horticulture consultant and worked at Noble Research Institute since 1988. He received a bachelor’s degree in horticulture from the Oklahoma State University and a master’s degree in horticulture from Kansas State University. Before joining Noble, he served as a county and area Extension horticulture specialist with the Oklahoma State University Extension service and managed a commercial market garden operation east of Kansas City, Missouri. His areas of interest include raised bed and container gardening, commercial market gardening, and high tunnel (hoop house) construction and management.Youtube playlist I watched a few years back. Good introductory/overview series. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLIIQw8FHFtX9RYuIpZxfJey1G2kxIdhd_
Contents
They left the sides open to be able to put a foot under to go easier on your lower back. I would either close it in or put something on the ground to block grass/weeds. Tough spot even for a string trimmer.
https://www.noble.org/globalassets/docs/ag/pubs/horticulture/nf-ho-15-01.pdf
Water-Wise Gardening by Steve Solomon - Paperback – February 2, 2022
Modern gardening books tell us to ditch large row gardens in favor of small raised beds filled with lots of compost. Authors and teachers now argue that wide spacing is wasteful and tiny gardens are the wave of the future. Yet our ancestors knew how to garden in tough times, often without irrigation or big piles of compost. Their experience led them not to tiny plots, but to wide spacing and a meager use of resources—especially water! In a time of climate change and droughts, wildfires and food shortages, learning to garden without intensive resources is vital to our survival. You can grow great vegetables with little input by transforming the way you garden and irrigate. Learn to grow with or without irrigation in this revised, rewritten, and expanded classic from gardening superstar Steve Solomon.
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Wise-Gardening-Steve-Solomon/dp/1955289107
Only place I see it available.
