We were all worried about you Granny, and I have the FReepmails to prove it.
Posted on 03/23/2008 11:36:40 PM PDT by nw_arizona_granny
Americans finding soaring food prices hard to stomach can battle back by growing their own food. [Click image for a larger version] Dean Fosdick Dean Fosdick
Home vegetable gardens appear to be booming as a result of the twin movements to eat local and pinch pennies.
At the Southeastern Flower Show in Atlanta this winter, D. Landreth Seed Co. of New Freedom, Pa., sold three to four times more seed packets than last year, says Barb Melera, president. "This is the first time I've ever heard people say, 'I can grow this more cheaply than I can buy it in the supermarket.' That's a 180-degree turn from the norm."
Roger Doiron, a gardener and fresh-food advocate from Scarborough, Maine, said he turned $85 worth of seeds into more than six months of vegetables for his family of five.
A year later, he says, the family still had "several quarts of tomato sauce, bags of mixed vegetables and ice-cube trays of pesto in the freezer; 20 heads of garlic, a five-gallon crock of sauerkraut, more homegrown hot-pepper sauce than one family could comfortably eat in a year and three sorts of squash, which we make into soups, stews and bread."
[snipped]
She compares the current period of market uncertainty with that of the early- to mid-20th century when the concept of victory gardens became popular.
"A lot of companies during the world wars and the Great Depression era encouraged vegetable gardening as a way of addressing layoffs, reduced wages and such," she says. "Some companies, like U.S. Steel, made gardens available at the workplace. Railroads provided easements they'd rent to employees and others for gardening."
(Excerpt) Read more at dallasnews.com ...
I have only been here two days now and I already LOVE that about her! She is one of those people that I'd give my eye-teeth to have living in walking distance so I could pick her brain! If she couldn't leave the house I'd be draggin' my stuff over to her house and telling her, "Okay, tell me how to do this!"
And today, I am getting wonderful informative posts from you also. Thank you!
And I am loving that!!! This house is old with only 1 gas space heater so it doesn't stay very warm unless I am cooking. Fortunately for the 2 of us, I love to cook. But, the canning has made it so that I am warm during the day without using the gas (of course it is electric with the range, but at least I'm getting more out of it than heat.) And the steam has done wonders for the plants that are still in the house.
I had not heard about planting onion that way. I will try that because there are occasional misformed onions in the lot. I have also gotten wilted live basil, thyme and oregano plants which are in the ground buried under mulch now. Not sure if they'll all make it but I gave 'em a good soaking in some compost tea.
Another seed that I have not had success with is onion and chives. I have some chives in the beds that have been there for years, I just divide them every now and again. Need to do it this year. And I have garlic growing wild. But, the seeds of onion and chives have just eluded me. As I posted with the tomatoes and pepper seeds, I have never had a good seed starting location.
Also, until 2 years ago I worked a forty to fifty hour week and there wasn't as much time to maintain things daily. Now is my time to do all the things I always wanted to try!
You and I are senile in exactly the same way about water! So, let’s just luxurate in it. ;-)
That water running out on freezing nights always tore me up too. For 17 years I lived in a old farmhouse on 3/4 acre. We had 1/4 acre garden and a small orchard. I undid the drain pipe on the bathtub and the kitchen sink under the house and clamped flexible washing machine drain hose on the end. My washer was in an outbuilding and already had a long drain hose like that to the garden area when I bought the house. So, I ended up being able to use the gray water from the bath, kitchen sink AND washing machine to water my fruit trees and garden. I really want to be able to do that again because it’s no use having all that “good” water going to the sewer plant.
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I know what you mean, but I will say this about lawns; they're great for cleaning off shoes! They also help to keep ticks away.
Yep, when we move I am promised a larger more sturdy greenhouse. I have moved a reclining lawn chair into my greenhouse so I can sit and bask. I don’t have a lot of “sitting and basking” time, but I think that is rest for my soul time.
I have wondered about tomatoes in the greenhouse and am anxious to try that. I could really be ecstatic with a greenhouse to walk into from the house. I would probably be found there anytime I wasn’t in the kitchen or sleeping. And don’t think I haven’t thought of sleeping in my lawn chair in the greenhouse already!!! LOL
We were all worried about you Granny, and I have the FReepmails to prove it.
Yeah, I have to ship mine off . . . maybe today if I get around to it.
And tons of school and other stuff to do.
Wheeeee.
BTW, back 11 years or so ago . . . I understand the Phoenix huge UFO flyover began up North and West of you a bit. Did you or any of your local compadres see it at all?
Scott’s Lady friend, was having problems, so I suggested he share his bottle of Lavender E.O. with her.<<<
I am glad she tried it. It sounds like she is good for him.
Your “sharing with a friend” reminds me of several years ago when we raised belted galloways, we would go to a thrift store weekly and get a pickup truckload of bakery items, mostly bread. Some of the items would be several days prior to their “freshness” date, but discarded because of failure to be uniform in size, color etc. We paid ten dollars for the whole load. It was cheaper than cattle grain and great for fattening cattle and hogs. We also shared with several neighbors living on small pensions.
I remember asking an elderly gent if he needed some fresher bread and he answered that he didn’t mind removing a little mold and wouldn’t take any fresh, but how he loved raisin bread when we would have some for him. How grateful and thrifty some of our elders are!!
I, too, here in Maine have rock hard clay. Have been working on my soil for 50 plus years and have some beds that are very friable after adding literally tons of compost. Yes, it is “black gold” and I am fortunate to have tons of it every year to share with family and friends. Having two miniature ponies, all the neighbors suitable kitchen waste and grass clippings and all the seaweed I can get hubby to help me harvest makes for a big pile. As I share, it is like a community project. I keep a thermometer in it and everyone is amazed when I get it up to 120 degrees. When it starts to cool. hubby takes his loader, turns it and it starts to heat up again.
My children say that I am the only one they know that gets all excited about a compost pile, but I bet Granny would understand my enthusiasm.
Like you, I have been poor but was so blessed in other ways, didn’t even realize I was poor. When you have plenty of milk, eggs, poultry, beef, pork, wild berries and apples, how can you feel poor feasting on custard, blueberry and apple pie, homemade icecream, cottage cheese, breads and biscuits hot from the oven.
Just sitting here watching the snow falling today and dreaming about the garden I will be planting, God willing in a few weeks.
We’ll be over here on the Nascar thread Sat night.
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2175775/posts
Driver introductions for the Budweiser Shootout begin at 7:50 p.m.
The green flag goes in the air for the Budweiser Shootout at 8:10 p.m. ET
I wish I had a greenhouse. My plants out on the deck are tired of being covered and uncovered. My tall lavender plants have a few broken stalks. I have sweet potato vines which I brought in the house along with my coleus plants.
My neighbor brought me a lavender sachet when I moved in, I definitely needed it that night and I also put it under my pillowcase. :)
Granny, if you don’t mind can you tell me what you did with the dehydrator? I have looked at them and find them interesting, it would be good for herbs and fruit etc.
Thanks granny, I will check the lens cleaner. I have a feeling it’s because I abuse the length of time I wear the contacts - like overnight. Or, it seems to pop up when the wind blows and I think it could be an allergy to something here as my eye burns and itches.
I don’t need plastic on my head at night as I have a dog that loves to sleep right there :) he keeps me warm.
Granny, I think my computer is 9 years old. I find also that some of the new spyware removal stuff does not load to Win 2000. I like spybot but I can’t get it to load.
Batchelors website has a lot of interesting stories including the nuke bomb possibility.
What a beautiful word picture!
Made a pot today and put in about 4 heaping tablespoons of tomato powder and whole family came back for more. Of course having fresh homemade bread helped too.
That’s what’s great about this thread, anyone can answer. :)
I love your idea! That could go in other sauces as well.
Thanks!!
Speaking of tomatoes. here’s a great organic heirloom tomato website to order.
http://www.ghorganics.com/heirloom_tomatoes.htm
From your page:
“May I always be the person my pets think I am”
Critter Troubles
Cats and Dog
Deer
Moles, Voles, Groundhog
Rabbit
Raccoon
Rat and Mice
Skunk
Snake
Squirrel
Post your gardening related questions and answers on the Garden in Harmony with Nature message board
Cats and Dogs
Grind up grapefruit or lemon rind. Spread over the soil.
Use any thorny plant clippings like rose or raspberry canes to spread on the soil.
Plant some catnip or catmint in an out of the way area to keep cats away from other garden spaces.
There is a repellent sold at PetSmart called “Reppers” that quite a few people have said is very effective against cats.
Make a tea from rue and spray the boundary. Cats hate rue. Try planting rue here and there to repel them and to have some to make your own sprays. Rue is a pretty perennial herb with blue, green leaves and yellow flowers. It can cause contact dermatitis in some people. Also try planting a thick groundcover like sedum acres, hardy iceplant etc.
Maybe: Here’s an interesting trick. Place mouse traps with the trap side down on the soil. When they are disturbed they will pop into the air and scare the intruder. The trap is already sprung when it jumps so it won’t hurt the cats.
Dogs and cats: Some folks have had success by sprinkling bloodmeal on the soil.
If you can get seeds from a sweet gum tree try using them as a barrier.
Spread pinecones around.
Try spraying full strength lemon juice where they get in the garden.
Plant calendula (pot marigold) which repels dogs.
Use chicken wire or plastic mesh disguised under some mulch in garden beds. Cats can’t dig so they won’t (hopefully) poop.
Deer Controls
There is no real sure cure for repelling deer other than tall fences. Some of the methods that follow may work better for certain types of deer than others. When food is scarce deer can and will eat just about everything. Experiment to see what make work for your deer problem.
Here is the definitive answer on deer fencing methods from Jan Reeves in West Virginia.
Our thanks to Jan for sharing this!
We have some very aggressive deer here in West Virginia. This is the only deterrent that has worked when the bush beans are in full flower. We’ve had this barrier broached once. During hunting season a spooked buck tore through the upper wires but he was running so hard he never noticed the garden. All the other deer have been content to trim our hedge and munch on marigolds.
Erect the usual 4 foot 12 gauge fence around the area. Place posts 6 vice 8 feet apart so deer can’t lean on the fence and bend it.
Every 18 feet or so clamp 10-12 foot poles to the fence posts. String cheap electric fence wire between poles at about 2 foot vertical intervals. Tape Christmas tree icicles to wires at about 3 ft. intervals. This confuses the deer as to the height and density of the “extended” fencing.
To be absolutely effective, erect a single wire barrier 27 inches up and 30 inches beyond the fence row. Deer get between the wire and the fence but can’t gather themselves for the jump.
1. When using Ropel for deer control it can be made much more effective with the addition of an antitranspirant such as Cloudcover, Wiltproof, Forevergreen etc. The actions of the antitranspirants along with the Ropel make the effectiveness of the treatment last all season long.
2. Plant time-released garlic capsules at the bases of trees or shrubs.
3. Wrap bars of “gold Dial deodorant soap” in cheesecloth. Hang bars at intervals of 4 feet apart and 4 feet above the ground.
4. To stop bark chewing: Mix bone tar oil at a ratio of 1 part bone tar oil to 50 parts water to. Paint on tree trunks. Nah, it won’t hurt your trees. Bone tar oil is available as Magic Circle Deer Repellant.
5. Egg spray: mix 5-6 raw eggs in 1 gallon of water and spray. This will cover approximately 17,00 sq. feet. The smell of decomposing eggs keep the deer away while being too faint a dilution for humans to detect. The U.S. Forest service has used this for years. Also including some antitranspirant in this mix will extend the benefits. An alternative is to use wettable sulfur which gives off that rotten egg smell. Mix according to directions and spray as a barrier.
More Homemade Deer Repellent Sprays:
2 raw eggs 1 cup skim milk 1 cup water 3 garlic cloves 1 Tbs. sticker/spreader (available at nursery) or dish soap. Application: Blend together, add to a gallon sprayer and fill to line with water. Spray oo plants as needed.
Homemade Deer Repellent with Eggs In a blender, mix two eggs to one cup of water. Blend well then add one cup of skim milk and any type of sticker such as soap. Put this mixture into a sprayer and spray a light mist over the plant. There will be very little odor but deer will not find it appetizing. This recipe is over one hundred years old and is suppose to be very effective.
6. Hot sauce spray: Mix 1-2 tsp. of Tabasco sauce and 2 tsp. of antitranspirant in 1 gallon of water. Spray. Must be reapplied after rain.
7. Plant some specific plants at the outermost perimeter of your yard for the deer to graze on. These plants can generally take the “natural pruning” done by the deer and flourish. Deer will eat just about anything when feeding conditions are poor.
Choices: Gambel Oak, Fourwing Saltbush, Rocky Mountain Smooth Sumac,
Saskatoon Serviceberry, Wood’s Rose.
8. Inside the feeding ground barrier a buffer of possibly deer resistant plants is wise. The following table has a selection of plants that are considered more deer-proof. When hungry deer will eat just about anything so nothing is infallible. For a great listing of deer resistant plants visit Rutgers University Deer Plant Page.
Trees
Blue Spruce
Bristlecone Pine
Hawthorn
Holly Tree
Norway Maple
Oaks
Oregon Myrtle
Redwood Smoke Tree
Sweet Gum
Tanbark Oak
Walnut
Shrubs
Boxwood
Butterfly Bush
Curl Leaf Mountain Mahogany
Japanese Barberry
Junipers
Natal Plum
Potentilla
Redtwig Dogwood
Rhododendron
Scotch Broom
Star Jasmine
Wild Lilac
Groundcover
Aarons Beard
Ajuga
Catmint
Dianthus
Irish Moss
Lily of Valley
Manzanita
Myrtle
Peppermint
Scotch Moss
Siberian
Spearmint
St. Johns Wort
Vines
Algerian Ivy
American Bittersweet
CA Fuschia
Clematis
English Ivy
Virginia Creeper
Perennials
Anemone
Artemisias
Asclepias
Babys Breath
Bee Balm
Chrysanthemum
Daffodil
Daylily
Dianthus
Coreopsis
Echinacea
Dusty Miller
Foxglove
Hellebore
Iris
Lady Fern
Lambs Ear
Oregano
Oriental Poppy
Pampas Grass
Sword Fern
Wood Fern
Yarrow
Succulent
Hen & Chick
Sedums
Spiny Cacti
Yuccas
9. Try putting pallets flat on the ground around your garden. Deer usually will not walk on or jump over these. Usually your local newspaper is a good source for free pallets.
10. Hang fabric softener sheets in and around areas to be protected. Replace after several rains.
11. Mix a gallon bucket of clay soil and water with cayenne or any hot pepper and garlic. Paint this on trunks of trees and stems of shrubs. This will not harm the plants.
12.Hang deodorant type soap every 4 feet or so from your trees’ branches. Keep them at a height of 30”. One warning: ground hogs like the soap.
13. Coyote urine which is available commercially has been reported to be effective as a deer repellant. We have had quite a few people write in to the contrary that predators urine scents don’t seem to work at all.
14. From the Bartlett Tree Experts’ Research Laboratory in North Carolina is this interesting deer control technique. They have installed a post and rail fence strung with solar powered electric wires. Sure the deer might figure out how to get past it without getting jolted so Bartlett has come up with this behavior modifier. They put blobs of peanut butter on the fence which deer find irresistible. They come to get the goodies and the shock is such an unpleasant surprise that they remember the experience and don’t bother coming back to try and jump the fence!
15. We have been told that deer will avoid Russian Sage like the plague. Russian sage is certainly a beautiful perennial and worth a try! Bees love it.
16. To keep deer from bulb plants- soak them in Alum water before planting.
Moles, Voles and Groundhog
1. Castor beans or mole plants (Euphorbia lathyris) can be planted around or in a garden. The bean seeds can also be dropped in tunnels. However, both plants are very poisonous and should not be used where small children may come in contact with them.
2. Spray a solution of 1 tbsp. of castor oil and 1 tbsp. of liquid dish soap per gallon of warm water on soil and plants.
3. Place elderberry cuttings in the tunnels.
4. Sprinkle chile powder and powdered garlic into tunnels weekly.
5. Scatter ground red pepper into the runs.
6. Plant ornamental blooming scilla (squill) bulbs as a garden border or around susceptible plants to repel moles. Also known as “Wood Hyacinth.” Scilla comes in shades of white lavender, blue, and pink with nodding bell-like flowers. Over the years they will multiply and fill in. Easy to grow and an attractive spring flower.
7. Last resort: Place rolled up pieces of Juicy fruit gum in mole tunnels. Wear gloves to mask your scent when you unwrap the gum. Moles love it, but it clogs their innards, fatally. Or use Ex-Lax which has the opposite effect.
8 Find the entrances then put sulfur into the holes and seal all of them with soil.. Another option is to place small ammonia soaked sponges into each hole and seal.
9. Some people have had success at keeping moles at bay using hot peppers. Use jalapenos, habaneros, the hotter the better! Keep a bag full in the freezer to have on hand when you need them...ready to use against moles and for your bug sprays. What you want to do is tightly pack the peppers into the openings of the runs using as many as you need. Do this everywhere you find an entrance and at intervals along the tunnels if you can find them. Dig an opening then stuff with peppers. For every spot you pack with peppers be sure to fill it in with dirt and tamp down firmly.
10. Try placing dog or cat hair in the entrance holes and runs.
Rabbits
1. Tree guards: In fall wrap the lower portions of the trunks with commercial tree wrap, burlap, foil, or metal window screen. The wrapping should be 2’ above the height of the deepest snow expected, rabbits can walk on top of the snow. Remove wrappings from the trunks in spring.
2. Sprinkle or hang cheesecloth bags of bloodmeal around plants. If sprinkled it must be redone after rain.
3. Vinegar: Soak corn cobs (cut in half) left over from a meal in vinegar for 5 minutes, then scatter throughout the flower or vegetable garden. Two weeks later soak them again in the same vinegar. You can keep reusing this same vinegar again and again.
4. Spray a tea made from cow manure and water as a repellent.
5. Soybean plants will repel rabbits or some say they attract them.
6. Onions will repel them. So will bonemeal.
7. Use red pepper, black pepper, cayenne, paprika etc. as a dust to repel. Rabbits are always sniffing so they snort this up and it sends them packing.
8. Mix 1 well beaten egg, 1/2 tsp. Tabasco sauce, and 1 gal. of water. Paint this on the tree trunks to prevent munching. This will not harm the trees.
9. Plant “Mexican Marigolds” (Tagetes Minuta) and garlic in the garden to repel them.
10. Set old leather shoes (from the thrift shop) around the garden to give it that “humans are here” smell.
11. Garlic Oil Spray may help to repel rabbits.
To make: Combine 3 ounces of minced garlic cloves with 1 ounce of mineral oil. Let soak for 24 hours or longer. Strain. Next mix 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion with 16 ounces of water. Add 1 tablespoon of castille soap to this. Now slowly combine the fish emulsion water with the garlic oil. Kept in a sealed glass container this mixture will stay viable for several months. To use: Mix 2 tablespoons of garlic oil with 1 pint of water and spray.
12. Try planting some crops that rabbits will eat instead with, we hope, the intention of deterring them from your other garden crops. Try annual crimson red clover, planted as a strip border around the garden. Now even if it is not successful as a distraction the clover will up the nitrogen content of your soil. Soybeans are said to be good munchies for bunnies but some say they act as a repellant.
13. Pepper and Glue Spray: Mix together 2 tablespoons of ground red pepper or Tabasco sauce, 1 tablespoon of Elmer’s white glue and a quart of water. Spray as needed but not right before you are ready to harvest as the solution may be difficult to wash off your produce.
14. A good rabbit repellent is a mixture of 85% raw linseed oil, 5% household detergent and 10% water. This can be applied with either a paintbrush or small sprayer. Use as a barrier spray but not directly on plant foliage.
Raccoons and Skunks
NOTE: Skunks have been known to go after sweet corn just like raccoons! To add to that not much will stop raccoons.
Raccoons usually have litters of between two to seven babies. They travel what we call “runs” and will use the same runs generation after generation for decades. They can easily scale high wooden fences. They are nocturnal and do their scavenging at night.
Skunks are also nocturnal or nighttime marauders and can claim up to 10 acres in their territory! Skunks habitually use old borrows left from other creatures or like to make a home in hollows underneath buildings and porches. They will, on occasion, dig their own burrows.
1. Plant anything with prickly foliage to deter them such as squash plants, oriental poppies, globe thistle, pumpkins, Kentucky Wonder pole beans etc. Raccoons have incredibly sensitive toes.
2. To keep them from corn plants: put 2-3 drops of Tabasco sauce near the tip of the ear at least one week before picking.
3. To trap raccoons: use baits like sardines, marshmallows, or honey soaked bread.
4. Surround the area with a horizontal border that coons and skunks don’t like to walk over-crumpled up black plastic, newspaper, or aluminum foil. Hold these in place with some rocks, landscape pins, or soil.
5. Use mesh fencing or chicken wire as a horizontal barrier. Raise these slightly above the ground with some bricks to make it even more of a hassle to cross.
6. Spread naphthalene flakes or balls around, raccoons hate the taste of this in their paws and they are said to also aid in repelling skunks.
7. Put paper bags over ears of corn and fasten shut with a rubberband.
8. When the ears are getting close to harvest time tape them to the stalks with masking tape!
9. Use any kind of old netting: fish netting, tennis net, whatever as a barrier. Stake loosely to hold in place.
10. Use rose bush trimmings as a barrier, or anything with stickers.
11. Plant cucumbers with your corn. Both raccoons and skunks hate cucumbers for some reason.
12. Sprinkle a barrier of lime around the perimeter to be protected.
13. To keep raccoons from getting the fruit in your trees: wrap a barrier of aluminum or sheet metal 2 feet in height around the trunk of the tree. Be sure not to make it tight you want to let your tree trunk breathe.
14. Soak old corn cobs in vinegar. Place them around the plant to be protected. Supposedly once they chew on these they will not come back. We found that last season this worked on both skunks and raccoons for about 2 months. Apparently after that they got wise and were up to their old tricks.
15. Skunk Spray: Make a spray out of 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda and 1 teaspoon dish soap. Spray this around areas where you would like skunks to stear clear of such as garbage cans. Don’t get this on foliage.
16. Sprinkle flour around suspected nesting or sleeping areas.
Rat and Mice Control
1. For trapping mice: Use pumpkin seeds; you’ll find that mice can’t resist them! They sure are great roasted and salted, the pumpkin seeds, that is!
2. Scatter fresh or dried mint or holly leaves as a repellent. The mint works like a charm! We use it everywhere mice are a problem and they will not go near it. Smells nice too. We have had a good deal of email from folks that wrote us to say mint works great for them too!
3. Protect the bases of trees by wrapping loosely with 1/4” hardware cloth or foil. Be sure to keep any mulch pulled away from the trunks.
There is always cats as an option!
4. Don’t mulch any perennials until after a few frosts. The rodents will have found a home by then and not in your mulch!
5. Encourage snakes and owls to stay near the garden to provide natural control.
6. Trap baits: nut meats, dried fruits, or bacon.
7. Plant “barriers” of perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolius) which will repel mice. You will enjoy the beauty of these plants for many years to come too.
8. Spray Ropel on the plants that are being bothered by mice.
9. Keep the soil around plants bare, as mice do not like to come out in the open.
10. Daffodils (Narcissus spp.), wood hyacinth (Scilla or squill) and grape hyacinth (Muscari) are said to repel rodents. Plant a pretty spring blooming border of them to help protect your other plants year round.
11. Planting herbs with a powerful scent will repel mice. Best choices are alliums, camphor plant, dwarf elder, elderberry, euphorbias, any mints and wormwood.
12. If you are allergic to or cannot tolerate cats then there are certain dogs which will take care of mice for you. Certain terriers are well known as “ratters” and so are Italian greyhounds.
Snake Control
Snakes may seek refuge beneath buildings. If there is a gap or opening, they will enter and inhabit a building, just as house mice do. Sealing all cracks and other openings greater than 1/4 inch can prevent them from entering. Gaps beneath garage doors are often large enough to permit snakes to enter, especially young ones. In summer, snakes may be attracted to cool and/or damp places, such as beneath buildings and in basements. Access doors on crawl spaces should be inspected carefully for breaks or gaps. Use caution if you must crawl under a house or other building. Hot tub or swimming pool pump enclosures may provide cover if they are not well sealed. The dampness associated with ornamental water fountains, pools, and fishponds may also make the surrounding area attractive to snakes.
1. Burn the leaves of Comfrey, Rue, and Bay. Scatter where snakes are.
2. A barrier of “Flowers of sulfur” may repel snakes. This should be available at local drugstore or pharmacy and is also known as elemental sulfur. We have heard of this being used successfully where copperheads are a problem.
3. Wormwood: this herb when dried and scattered around may repel snakes. Planting a barrier of wormwood plants is another method. A perimeter spraying of wormwood tea may help.
4. Spray ammonia around the snakes hole to repel, then later fill them in with dirt.
What can be done for snake bite initial first aid?
DO Try to calm the victim.
DO Gently wash the area with soap and water.
DO Apply a cold, wet cloth over the bite.
DO Transport victim to the nearest emergency facility for further treatment.
What should NOT be done after a poisonous bite?
DON’T apply a tourniquet.
DON’T pack the bite area in ice.
DON’T cut the wound with a knife or razor.
DON’T use your mouth to suck out the venom.
DON’T let the victim drink alcohol.
Squirrel Control
1. Bulbs: soak them in Ropel before planting and squirrels will leave them alone. You can also dust them with medicated baby powder.
2. Put sheet metal collars on trees to keep them from climbing the trunks. Prune back any access limbs also.
3. To keep squirrels from the bird feeders in winter try growing witch hazel, Hamamelis virginiana. It can be grown in the East and Midwest. They grow underneath trees and can continue blooming into December. The flowers form a seed pod that will eventually shoot out the seeds on the ground which supplies squirrels with some winter forage.
4. Sprinkle pepper or paprika around squirrel prone areas.
5. Using any type of “sticky barrier” can be effective as the squirrels’ hate the sticky feeling on their paws.
6. For pole type bird feeders: grease the pole with petroleum jelly. They will get the message pretty quick and go elsewhere for goodies.
7. Learn to get along with them. We have squirrels who do get into the bird feeders but in general cause no trouble at all! In 15 years they have dug up some bulbs one time and that is it!
8. Plant Fritillaria imperialis bulbs in the area of plants that you want to protect. Supposedly they have a particular smell that squirrels and chipmunks find repulsive. They are certainly beautiful plants and a great addition to your garden!
9. Beware that water features will attract squirrels and chipmunks too!
10. To keep squirrels and chipmunks from bulb plants- soak them in Alum water before planting.
The above came from this page:
http://www.ghorganics.com/page6.html
More inforamtion from your website:
http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html
COMPANION PLANTING
Many plants have natural substances in their roots, flowers, leaves etc. that can alternately repel (anti-feedents) and/or attract insects depending on your needs. In some situations they can also help enhance the growth rate and flavor of other varieties. Experience shows us that using companion planting through out the landscape is an important part of integrated pest management. In essence companion planting helps bring a balanced eco-system to your landscape, allowing nature to do its’ job. Nature integrates a diversity of plants, animals, and other organisms into every ecosystem so there is no waste. The death of one organism can create food for another, meaning symbiotic relationships all around.
By using companion planting, many gardeners find that they can discourage harmful pests without losing the beneficial allies. There are many varieties of herbs, flowers, etc. that can be used for companion plants. Be open to experimenting and find what works for you. Some possibilities would be using certain plants as a border, backdrop or interplanting in your flower or vegetable beds where you have specific needs. Use plants that are native to your area so the insects you want to attract already know what to look for! Plants with open cup shaped flowers are the most popular with beneficial insects.
Companion planting can combine beauty and purpose to give you an enjoyable, healthy environment. Have fun, let your imagination soar. There are many ways you can find to incorporate these useful plants in your garden, orchard, flower beds etc.
Following is a basic plant guide (with some tips) to help you “work in harmony with nature.”
Note: this guide is not intended to solve garden problems as the suggestions may work differently in various situations or not at all. Don’t let that discourage you from giving the ideas a try! What works for some may not work for others and vice versa. Experimenting is the only way we can gain new insight for our own individual gardens.
PLANT GUIDE
ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it’s long taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its’ roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.
AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it’s leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host to predatory ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.
ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood
BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well with peppers, oregano, asparagus and petunias. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue or sage.
BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.
For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house anywhere they are getting in and they should leave.
BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Keep beans away from the alliums.
BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.
BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don’t care to eat them. Beets are also beneficial to beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other’s growth. Companions for beets are lettuce, kohlrabi, onions and brassicas. Beets are helped by garlic and mints. Garlic improves growth and flavor. Rather than planting invasive mints around beets use your mint clippings as a mulch.
BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.
BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.
BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)
CABBAGE: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. They do not get along with strawberries, tomatoes and pole beans.
CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it’s deep roots so it’s also compatible next to shallow rooted crops. Plant it with strawberries. Caraway can be tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects especially the tiny parasitic wasps. Keep it away from dill and fennel.
CARROTS: Their pals are leaf lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Plant dill and parsnips away from carrots. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests.
CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and the mice split! Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice and ants. Smells good and very safe.
CELERY: Companions: Bean, cabbage family, leek, onion, spinach and tomato. Foe: Corn.
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.
CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.
CHERVIL: Companion to radishes, lettuce and broccoli for improved growth and flavor. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Said to deter slugs. Likes shade.
CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. A friend to apples, carrots, tomatoes, brassica (broccoli, cabbage, mustard, etc) and many others. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews. Avoid planting near beans and peas. See chive tea on disease page.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It’s flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a picture of the painted daisy from which pyrethrum is extracted.
CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion and is especially good to plant under grapevines. Attracts many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators of the woolly aphid.
COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to grow in. Comfrey is beneficial to avocado and most other fruit trees. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs. More on comfrey.
CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.
CORN: Amaranth, beans, cucumber, white geranium, lamb’s quarters, melons, morning glory, parsley, peanuts, peas, potato, pumpkin, soybeans, squash and sunflower. A classic example is to grow climbing beans up corn while inter-planting pumpkins. The corn provides a natural trellis for the beans, pumpkins smother the weeds and helps corn roots retain moisture. The beans fix nitrogen from air into the soil. Another interesting helper for corn is the weed Pig’s Thistle which raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them.. Keep corn away from celery and tomato plants.
COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.
CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for the vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Keep sage away from cucumbers.
DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate size flowers repels nematodes!
DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots, caraway or tomatoes. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants.) Dill goes well with lettuce, onions, cabbage, sweet corn and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep the destructive horn worm away from them. Do plant dill in an appropriate spot for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are beautiful.
ELDERBERRY: A spray (see insect treatments) made from the leaves can be used against aphids, carrot root fly, cucumber beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and leaves in mole runs to banish them. Elderberry leaves added to the compost pile speeds up the decomposing process.
FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily self sows.
FOUR-O’CLOCKS: Draws Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won’t live to have dessert! It is important to mention that Four O’clock are also poisonous to humans and animals. Please be careful where you plant them if you have children and pets. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a bushy growth form.
GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. It also benefits apple trees, pear trees, cucumbers, peas, lettuce and celery. Garlic accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores and when garlic tea is used as a soil drench it is also taken up by the plant roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away. It’s certainly worth a try! Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It is safe for use on orchids too.
Try concentrated Garlic Barrier Insect Repellent!
GERANIUM: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, tomatoes, peppers and cabbage. Geraniums help distract beet leafhoppers, carrier of the curly top virus, away from Solanaceous plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and tobacco
GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.
GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are basil, beans, peas, or blackberries. Keep radishes and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover increases the soil fertility for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids. Plant your vines under Elm or Mulberry trees.
HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado potato bugs. Horseradish increases the disease resistance of potatoes. There are some very effective insect sprays that can be made with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained. Also repels Blister beetles. We have observed that the root can yield anti-fungal properties when a tea is made from it. (See: Horseradish: Disease)
HOREHOUND: (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family, the many tiny flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachnid and Syrid flies. The larval forms of these insects parasitize or otherwise consume many other insects pests. It grows where many others fail to thrive and can survive harsh winters. Blooms over a long season, attracting beneficial insects almost as long as you are likely to need them. For best results use horehound directly as a companion plant. Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes and peppers.
HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other members of the mint family making it safer for interplanting.
KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In particular we have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese beetles away when used as a spray every 8 days before and during infestation times. If you have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs away.
LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!
LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract Japanese beetles. They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans too!
LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavenders can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly, and lavender planted under and near fruit trees can deter codling moth. Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.
LEEKS: Use leeks near apple trees, carrots, celery and onions which will improve their growth. Leeks also repel carrot flies. Avoid planting near legumes.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!
LETTUCE: Does well with beets, bush beans, pole beans, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, onion, radish and strawberries. It grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.
LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery in flavor.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds. Do not plant French marigolds next to bean plants.
Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.
MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
MELONS: Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and squash. Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch around members of the brassica family. It attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial. We have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem is very effective in driving them off!
MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them away. This is a poisonous plant. See Moles: Critter Trouble
MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine to cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.
NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Do not plant near radish and cauliflower. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!
Try our recipe for: Nasturtium Salad
NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the nettles’ leaves contain formic acid which “stings” you.
ONIONS: Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavor. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas.
OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!
OREGANO: Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.
PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx for answers. Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.
PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to corn and they will provide extra nitrogen. Corn is a heavy feeder so this is a great combination! Companions for peas are bush beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Celery, Chicory, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish, Spinach, Strawberry, Sweet pepper and Turnips. Do not plant peas with onions.
PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and other good guys love it.
PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don’t plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity.
PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basils, oregano, parsley and rosemary
PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Warning: Pennyroyal is highly toxic to cats. It should not be planted where cats might ingest it and never rubbed onto their skin.
PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.
POTATO: Companions for potatoes are bush bean, members of the cabbage family, carrot, celery, corn, dead nettle, flax, horseradish, marigold, peas, petunia, onion and Tagetes marigold. Protect them from scab by putting comfrey leaves in with your potato sets at planting time. Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection. Don’t plant these around potatoes: cucumber, kohlrabi, parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash family, sunflower, turnip and fennel. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other.
PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for caper substitutes. If purslane is growing in your garden it means you have healthy, fertile soil!
RADISH: Companions for radishes are: radish beet, bush beans, pole beans, carrots, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons, nasturtium, parsnip, peas, spinach and members of the squash family. Why plant radishes with your squash plants? Radishes may protect them from squash borers. Anything that will help keep them away is worth a try. Radishes are a deterrent against cucumber beetles and rust flies. Chervil and nasturtium improve radish growth and flavor. Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed will also help fight corn borers. Chinese Daikon and Snow Belle radishes are favorites of flea beetles. Plant these at 6 to 12 inch intervals broccoli. In one trial, this measurably reduced damage to broccoli. Radishes will lure leafminers away from spinach. The damage the leafminers do to radish leaves does not stop the radish roots from growing, a win-win situation. Keep radishes away from hyssop plants, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and turnips. Planting an early row of radishes may lure flea beetles away from susceptible plants. For some good eating try our delicious Radishes.
RHUBARB: A good companion to all brassicas. Try planting cabbage and broccoli plants your rhubarb patch watch them thrive. Rhubarb protects beans against black fly. Some other interesting companions for rhubarb are the beautiful columbine flowers, garlic, onion and roses! It helps deter red spider mites from the columbines. A spray made from boiled rhubarb leaves, which contain the poison oxalic acid may be used to prevent blackspot on roses and as an aphicide.
ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.
RUE: Deters aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are roses, fruits (in particular figs), raspberries and lavender. To make it even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the smell. Has helped repel cats for us. You should not plant rue near cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue may cause skin irritation in some individuals. Remedy: See cats and dogs: Rue spray.
RYE: An excellent use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue prevent weed germination but do not harm transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other vegetables.
SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical qualities. More on sage.
Spinach: Plant with peas and beans as they provide natural shade for the spinach.
SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden. Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every spring and it comes back in not time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.
SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles. Why not try soybeans, they are good for you. They are many tasty ways to prepare them.
SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
STRAWBERRY: Friends are beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach and thyme. Foes: Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.
SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles and black aphids. Honey bees love it.
SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the yield. Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them. We have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The sunflowers are so tough that the aphids cause very little damage and you will have nice seed heads for the birds to enjoy. Sunflowers also attract hummingbirds which eat whiteflies. Talk about a symbiotic relationship!
SWEET ALYSSUM: Direct seed or set out starts of sweet alyssum near plants that have been attacked by aphids in the past. Alyssum flowers attract hoverflies whose larva devour aphids. Another plus is their blooms draw bees to pollinate early blooming fruit trees. They will reseed freely and make a beautiful groundcover every year.
TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don’t be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with its’ high potassium content.
Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to seed either as it may germinate in livestock fields.
TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.
THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided in spring.
TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don’t plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt, is a disease of tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.
WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.
WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects. Don’t plant wormwood with peas or beans. A tea made from wormwood will repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas effectively. The two best varieties for making insect spray are Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound is great as a border plant and the most toxic wormwood. Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly on food crops.
See More on wormwood. for more details.
For insect spray: See wormwood spray
YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among them. Yarrow has so many wonderful properties to it and is an ingredient in our own Golden Harvest Fertilizer.
ZINNIA: Pretty zinnias attract hummingbirds which eat whiteflies. Alternately the pastel varieties of zinnias can be used as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. All zinnias attract bees and other insect pollinators.
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Update: 07/05/08
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seful Gardening Tips
Which manure for what plant?
Garden Type Type of Manure When to Apply
Flower/Ornamental Horse or Cow Early Spring
Root Crops (carrot, potato etc) Horse or Cow Fall
Acid Lovers- azaleas, blueberry etc Cow or Horse Early Fall
Veggies Chicken, Horse, Cow Spring, Fall
African violets: Use chamomile tea to produce the best blooms they have ever had! Another plus is the tannic acid in the tea helps the plants retain moisture making this a good choice for other plants too. This works almost as well as our Golden Harvest Natural Fertilizer does for violets.
To make: Pour 2 cups boiling water over 1/4 cup chamomile blossoms. Let steep until cool and strain bottle. Use as needed. This keeps for about a week before going rancid. Chamomile blossoms can be purchased at health food stores and usually grocery stores. Use as you would any African violet fertilizer.
Brassicas: Keeping the soil pH around 7.0 to prevent club root disease.
Chapped hands: Make a very strong tea of spearmint leaves. Rub on your hands to heal them.
Cut flowers: To make them last longer try this: Combine 8 ounces of water with 8 ounces of gingerale or clear soda (7-Up) and 1/2 teaspoon bleach. The sugar in the soda provides the flowers with carbohydrates (energy) and the bleach acts to control bacteria.
Ferns Ailing? A bit of caster oil can help save your ferns: add 1 tablespoon of castor oil, 1 tablespoon of mild shampoo to a quart of warm water. Treat each fern with a 4 ounces of the tonic.
Onions: To raise onions for winter storage grow them from seeds. For summer eating grow them from sets.
Plant Markers: If you write on your wooden or plastic plant markers with pencil instead of a permanent marker they will last much longer!
Potato scab: When planting your potato sets put some wilted comfrey leaves in with them to prevent scab. Also keeping the soil for your potato patch with a pH of 5 or below (acid) or a pH of 7 or above (alkaline) to prevent scab. As an alternative pine needles may be used instead of comfrey leaves.
Rhizome or tuber rot: When dividing perennials with rhizomes or tubers dust the freshly cut parts with sulfur to prevent rotting.
Natural Rooting Hormone:
Rooting hormones available as liquids or powders contain a synthetic form of indolebutyric acid (IBA). IBA in it’s natural state is a plant hormone or growth regulator. You can make your own rooting hormone from the ever versatile willow tree. Willow contain a high concentration of IBA however the effectiveness can vary by the amount of twigs you use, the level of IBA that is present when you take your cuttings and the amount of time that you soak your mixture.
Any willow (salix) trees or shrub species will work.
Cut a good handful of willow twigs. Then cut them into two to three inch pieces. Put them in a glass or plastic container with a few inches of lukewarm water. Soak for 24-48 hours. You will then use the water to soak your cuttings in overnight. Another method is to water your soil with willow water into which you have placed your cuttings. Two applications should be sufficient. Other types of cuttings may be rooted directly in a jar of the water. You will need to make a fresh batch of willow water for each use.
Plant Willows: Why?
Willows consume carbon as they grow. This means they effectively reduce the amount of atmospheric carbon dioxide!
When the catkins open in early spring they provide an abundant food source for pollinating insects when little else is available to them.
Willows can be planted as a sound barrier, to filter waste and as a wild bird habitat.
Willows are also humus builders for the soil provided from their leaves falling at the end of the season. A good excuse not to rake them up.
Little Bits of Trivia
Monarch Butterflies and Milkweed Plants
The growing larvae (caterpillars) eat milkweed leaves. These leaves contain toxins- poisonous chemicals. These toxins don’t hurt the caterpillar, but they do make the caterpillar poisonous to most predators. Because it eats milkweed leaves as a caterpillar, the monarch butterfly is also poisonous. The survival of the monarch butterfly depends on this self-defense system provided by the milkweed.**
Sap from milkweed was used by pioneers as a cure for warts
The airborne fluffy parachute of the seed was used by Native Americans to insulate moccasins.
The dried empty seed pods were used as Christmas tree decorations by early pioneers.
The boys and girls from Wisconsin schools collected 283,000 bags of milkweed fluff for use in military life jackets during World War II.
It is used as an indicator of ground-level ozone air pollution.
BIRDS!
Woodpeckers are voracious ant eaters. You may see them also pick up ants in their beaks and crush them on their feathers. What are they doing this for? Crushing the ants bodies releases tannic acid which in turn protects the bird from parasites!
Hummingbirds, those wonderful creatures, favor brilliant red and orange flowers the most. Following are some of their favorite flowers:
Perennials: Coral Bells (heuchera), Indian paintbrush, columbine, hollyhock, jewelweed, bee Balm (monarda), phlox, daylilies, cardinal flower, lupines, penstemons, butterfly weed- which is very pretty and attracts butterflies too like it’s name.
Annuals: 4 O’clocks, cleome, petunias, impatiens, scarlet runner bean, red salvia, verbena, zinnias, lantana
Shrubs and Vines: Butterfly bushes, creeping trumpet vine, rose-of-sharon, flowering quince, trumpet honeysuckle
BEES!!
Did you know that the flowers bees love usually close at night? The reason is bees only fly during the daytime. Bees are attracted to flowers that are bright in color and have strong fragrance.
Bees are responsible for the existence of many flowers. without bees over 100.000 plant species would cease to exist!
Bees, feeling the rise in humidity, will usually go back in their hive to avoid a coming rainfall.
FLOWERS!!!
The largest rose in the world resides in Tombstone, Arizona. Rosa Bankiae planted in 1855 at the Rose Tree Inn now covers over 8,000 square feet on a massive trellis. If you are ever in Tombstone this would be worth seeing.
The most expensive flowers: a hyacinth bulb from a variety called “ king of Great Britain” sold in 1774 for L100. This equates to over 200,000 dollars in today’s economy!
A scarlet and white tipped tulip (Semper augustus) sold for the amount of 5,500 florins. This would give it a current value of 70,000 dollars today!
TREES!!!!
The oldest living tree is the bristlecone pine (pinus aristata). The oldest one found is 4,900 years old. What an amazing specimen to have survived through so many eras! It resides in the Wheeler Peak area of Nevada.
The gingko tree dates back to the Mesozoic era. The same tree today closely resembles its’ ancestor and is also known as the “maidenhair” tree. Possibly one of the first fruit trees the ginko produces an edible fruit that is similar to a persimmon.
The fastest growing tree in the world is the acacia. Certain varieties can grow as much as 2 1/2 feet a month, which translates into a little over an inch a day! Fast and furious the acacia does not live much longer than 30 years.
Ever wonder where that cork in the wine bottle comes from?
It comes from the cork oak which is the only tree that can survive “bark harvesting” as it has two layers of bark.
BEEFY TOMATO
The biggest tomato on record weighed in at a hefty 7 pounds 12 ounces. It was grown by Gordon Graham of Oklahoma.
Did you know?
Slugs are hermaphrodites: they all have male and female reproductive systems. Yes, they can mate with themselves!!! They can stretch to 20 times their normal length enabling them to squeeze through openings to get at food.
Cinch bugs overwinter by producing an antifreeze chemical that protects their innards from becoming frozen. A plant that everyone detests was found in an area where several feet of rock and plastic sheeting were removed. This area had been untouched for at least 20 years. At the bottom was pure white bindweed, quite alive!
Tall grass: The giant bamboo originating from Asia can reach heights of 50 feet! It is a true grass.
Earth Worms: Have the power to move stones that weigh 50 times their own weight. They also ingest soil and organic matter equal to the amount of their body weight each day.
**Viceroy butterflies look like Monarchs but are not poisonous. I guess they don’t eat milkweed!
—TAC
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