As a native New Yorker, I have strong opinions about pizza, just like I’m supposed to. So when Papa Johns’ newly launched “New York style” pizzas hit the market late last month, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to participate in a time-honored NYC tradition: telling other people exactly how the city’s iconic foods should be made. The variability of New York–style pizzas, even within the five boroughs, is vast. There are the old-school Brooklyn spots (L&B, Di Fara’s), the media darlings (Lucali, L’Industrie), the unassuming neighborhood joints, and the ubiquitous dollar slice shops. You will be treated to a very...