NOW that the air has chilled into what they like to call football weather, millions of Midwesterners are following an 80-year tradition, flooding every Saturday into the big university stadiums where their ancestors saw Knute Rockne, Red Grange and Benny Friedman. With professional football just a bunch of ragtag company-sponsored teams in the 1920's, the university squads could barely keep up with their growing fan base. To satisfy the demand, colleges scrambled to erect stadiums that could hold tens of thousands of people, especially in the Midwest. Today's teams could be the original group's great-grandsons, but they are often playing...