Charles de Gaulle famously bemoaned the difficulties involved in running a country with 246 different types of cheese. But it seems world famous Gallic varieties including camembert, roquefort and brie are increasingly falling out of favour. Although the average Frenchman still eats almost a pound of cheese per week, making the country the second biggest consumer of the food in Europe after Greece, it is increasingly likely to be a processed foreign variety. New figures show raw-milk cheeses from rural France, which until the Second World War accounted for nearly all consumption, now make up just seven per cent of...