BIRD IN HAND, Pa. - Early on a pale blue morning, a horse-drawn buggy clop-clopped along a farmland stretch of Route 340. A lone little Chevy compact came toward it at a Sunday pace. A black sport utility vehicle barreled up to the buggy's back, passing with a quick jerk that nearly clipped the oncoming car - and the horse's nose. That's Pennsylvania's Amish country, where the 19th and 21st centuries coexist, commingle and collide regularly. The Amish may hold fast to their plain ways, but contact with the outside world is unavoidable. Malls stand on land where corn used...