Posted on 10/01/2024 6:10:14 AM PDT by Diana in Wisconsin
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I’m SOOO jealous!!!
How gorgeous!
I wish traveling were easier but this eating issue puts a real crimp in traveling far. There are so many places I’d love to see.
That makes even more sense. The plants you’re growing ARE ‘cabbages’ so that would be the worm of choice. :)
I’ve been considering my seed purchase for next year.
Do I order now and have them?
Or wait and see if the country doesn’t fall apart after all, and order fresher seeds later but risk not getting them because of panic buying or shipping issues?
I’m leaning towards just getting them now.
Since the onion seeds I want, the Milano Di Rossa, are carried at Johnny’s, I’ll be ordering from them. They have a link on their website for storing seeds for best viability. I thought it was very useful information to pass on for anyone who wants to save their own seeds.
I don’t take extra calcium, though for some reason I’ve been drinking a bit more milk as of late.
When I was taking a calcium supplement, it increased my bunion (another ‘inheritance’ from Mom) so I stopped that.
I’ll stick with that daily 1/2 cup milk and some cheese. ;)
As Dear Old Mom always says (with a *SIGH*), ‘We just live in the PRETTIEST State!’
Yeah, you really got me thinking, too. I did a seed inventory a while back and if push comes to shove, I have seed on hand for a decent garden for next season.
BUT, it probably would be prudent to have some backup seed. Even if it is 2024, most will be just fine for the 2025 garden.
My drying beans (Good Mother Stallard) produced a great crop this season - I did double what I did last year and since they’re relatively care-free, I’ll up that for next year.
https://www.rareseeds.com/bean-good-mother-stallard
(Baker Creek seeds)
Fortunate Diana! A beautiful view of a beautiful place!
There is another product that may help, Spinosad.
https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/spinosad-caterpillar-control
I am at the point where I just assume that any Crucifer that I plant will be attacked by cabbage loopers so I either cover them with insect netting or occasionally spray with BT and Spinosad. (Things that mature quickly like Radishes or Turnips get sprayed. Anything that takes more than 55 days gets covered.)
Good luck!
Oddly, it seems that my turnips are rarely attacked.
But the Brussel Sprouts and cabbage get decimated if I’m not vigilant.
Tatsoi and Chijimisai are both cut and come again and have tiny new leaves sprouting up the center so there might be hope for them. I'm going to cut the leaves that are nothing but veins but leave anything that's still got some meat in hopes that any other cabbageworms will leave the new growth alone. Didn't see any worms or holes on the new growth.
I suppose I can't blame the little buggers. Tatsoi and Chijisimai were my favorites from Spring, especially, Chiji. Sweet eating right off the plant. Can't wait to get good at growing it. I could eat that every day. Salads, quick steam for greens. Last 5 minute addition to soups. More Vit C than oranges, more calcium than milk and loaded with Vit A. Feel like an ass for not looking closely at the plants when I saw the first few holes.
bkmk
Garlic Buttered Roasted Cabbage Steaks
Thick cut cabbage roasted crispy and golden. Veg entree or a hearty side.
Ing lge cabbage 1 tbl ea olive oil/butter 2 gar/cloves minced s/p
Steps Whisk ol/oil, butter, garlic. Bake cabbage sliced lengthways into 1" ‘steaks’ on parchmented sheetpan brushed w/ garlic butter. S/p. 350 deg 25-30 min til golden and crispy at edges. Garnish.
STORE cool leftovers airtight in fridge 3 days. REHEAT on lined sheetpan 350 deg til warmed thru.
Looks and sounds yummy.
A different way to serve the normally bland cabbage.
And we love cabbage. Made lamb and cabbage soup the other day with leftover leg of lamb slices, beef broth, onions and cut up cabbage, browned a bit in olive oil first, garlic pepper etc.
Back at the house with another load! Breezy & quite ‘cool’ at 54°. Checking the weather, I see there is a FROST warning from 2 am to 9 am. It’s definitely colder here at the foot of the mountains than it is at the old homestead.
I made it over the Blue Ridge just as the sun was disappearing. After stopping at the store to get some food for dinner, I pulled up in front of the house, turned the truck off, took the key out of the ignition & emailed mom to let her know I had made it OK. Went to grab my keys ... no keys. I checked my lap, felt around the seat, got out (listening in case the keys dropped), checked under the seat, etc. I finally gave up & unloaded dinner & ate it. Back out to the truck ... it was a SAR operation for those keys! I finally found them under the center console ... somehow they had slipped under it from the seat. One mystery solved ... the next is where did I leave my favorite flashlight? I can’t find it at either place & I have looked just about everywhere.
The trailer is backed under the barn because I am not unloading in the dark. It’s too windy to tarp to keep the dew & frost off so I am glad to have the barn. I will unload in the morning & head back for my wifi router which should come tomorrow, load up again & be back Friday. Whew!
Flotzie’s flavor of the week: salted caramel (which I love)!
(Three different loopers listed! I was only aware of one.)
BRAVE search gives this summary:
Damage: Cabbage loopers feed on the leaves of turnips, causing large holes and significant damage. The larvae can also bore into the developing heads of turnips, reducing yields and quality.
Life Cycle: Female moths lay eggs on the upper surface of turnip leaves. The larvae hatch and feed on the leaves, going through several instars (stages of growth). After about 2-4 weeks, they pupate and emerge as adult moths.
Identification: Cabbage looper eggs are tiny, yellowish-white to greenish half-spheres, often laid in small clusters of 6-7 on the leaves. The larvae are greenish-yellow, 1-2 inches long, and have a distinctive “looping” motion as they move along the leaves.
Control: To manage cabbage loopers on turnip leaves, consider the following organic methods: Hand-picking: Remove eggs and larvae from plants, especially in the early stages.
Insecticidal soap or Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis): Apply these organic pesticides to control larvae.
Row covers: Use physical barriers to prevent adult moths from laying eggs on your turnip plants.
Crop rotation: Rotate your crops to break the cabbage looper life cycle and reduce populations.
I probably have some damage from the Diamondback loopers. I sprayed, but should probably spray again.
They are destructive buggers.
I’ve even had some get past the insect barrier fabric I covered them with.
The turnips aren’t so much the problem. They grow so readily that I’d swear they were invasive.
Drop some seed somewhere accidentally and voila, turnip plants growing everywhere, in the flower bed, in the lawn, in the dirt driveway......
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