Posted on 04/23/2022 6:00:06 AM PDT by Diana in Wisconsin
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I bought some little Ferry-Morse brand plastic plant marker sticks at Lowe's a few weeks ago. They weren't terribly expensive, and they are the perfect size to fit a 1/2" sticky label from my $15 Brother P-Touch label maker.
I’ve got something similar for when they go out in the garden, they are much bigger than the toothpick that’s in the jiffy pellets. I use black permanent marker on the bigger ones and when they fade or need to get changed a little soap and a steel scrubber cleans them up like new.
Or colored toothpicks!
I searched around a bit and here is someone who made a hog panel green house.
He talks about the success and problems with this design which is good to know in advance.
Part of his problem might be orientation of the green house and lack of protection on the north/northwest side.
If Diane places hers against the house, that would reduce air infiltration. Provide a little heat and covers trays with garden fabric on cold days that would probably allow it to function ok in early spring. (With the occasional use of space heater.)
I’ve heard a number several times but can’t think of it;
For every layer of plastic, you gain ____ degrees. 5 or 10 degrees I think, probably 5.
A floating row cover counts as a layer and some people double those up by using a second, bigger set of hoops.
Our house is stick frame so if I did a lean-to greenhpouse/hoophouse against the house, it would definitely gain some heat and also be blocked from the Northwest winds we get here that come down the road. It would also keep the predominate S/SW winds from infiltrating our four drafty South facing windows and sometimes it’s cold when the S/SW wind is blowing. The house and greenhouse would help each other.
I keep our water tank on the South side of the house so it would be extra work to make a door for that but being under cover would help keep it from freezing in winter. I have a tank heater but the spigot and RV hose still freeze.
That lean-to greenhouse we had years ago amazed me. It was wood frame and the South wall was old wood frame double hung window panes still with wood frame. I had a bunch of them the same size. I dug a pit in the floor area, laid heavy plastic sheeting in it and piled rocks in the pit with gravel at the top to walk on. On a 40 degree morning, it would get to 70 degrees in there and we’d open the kitchen window to let that warm air in. Never did grow anything in there because we ended up moving.
Love it! That is so Post-Apocalyptic !
There are a lot of articles and videos on Cattle panel hoop houses.
https://scnow.com/lifestyles/columns/article_b36dc5da-63ae-11e9-87b9-7317d476c884.html
Below; Discusses ventilation and overheating. (Rollup sides.) They use 2 fans at the ends! (I use one of these fans in the windows of my back porch and have a high vent in the north wall that I open in the summer.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QACRQN920pE
Youtube will give you a selection of high tunnel hoop houses.
(Off to mow the lawn!)
What a GREAT idea.
They look just like my coffee creamer container markers.
Thanks for the links. Last year we decided to use cattle panels for the tomatoes. We did it one year long ago. Just fashion a lean to and plant all the tomatoes along the front and have them grow up the wall. Staking them always ends badly. No matter how tall or strong the stake, the plants get so big and heavily laden they start sliding down.
Sources and products Row Cover Fabric. A bit late in the season at this point so something to consider for next year.
(Could be used inside of a new plastic-on-cattle panel high tunnel/greenhouse along with some electric pipe heating cables to protect your trays of seedlings!)
Johnnies Row Covers and Accessories AG19
Agribon+ AG-19 – 10' x 50' $23
Row Cover
Standard grade for general frost protection.
Gives frost protection down to 28°F/-2°C. Great overwinter protection for strawberries, lettuce, spinach, etc. Should be used with hoop supports over plants whose growing points would project against the fabric, e.g. peppers. 85% light transmission. 0.55 oz./sq.yd.
Johnnies Row Covers and Accessories AG50
Agribon+ AG-50 – 83" x 50' $31
Row Cover
Heavy freeze protection.
Frost protection down to 24°F/-4°C. Excellent for overwintering crops without the need for multiple layers. Should be used with hoop supports over plants whose growing points would project against the fabric. Durable enough to last up to three seasons. 50% light transmission. 1.5 oz./sq.yd.
(Phenology....The forsythia have bloomed and are fading now; the lilacs are in bloom. The garlic and potato onions are up and strong! The dandelion moon is shining bright! (Is there such a thing?? Maybe for lawn companies!)
Generally, I just mark the tomatoes and peppers while they’re still in pots. Once everything is planted, it’s anyone’s guess as to variety, but I remember who is who when they start to produce. ;) I usually plant the same stuff year to year, so it’s no biggie for me.
If I’m sharing something, I make sure the pot is marked!
So, my Lifetime Supply of plant markers should pretty much be exactly that. I guess I’d better add them to my Will so they get a good home when I’m no longer here, LOL!
I have to keep the plant markers in the garden especially for the tomatoes and peppers. Cold here at night, 29 tonight. Maybe last fire in the woodstove downstairs. All my seedlings have been inside the last couple of days. May put them out for the day tomorrow. It has been so wet that we only tilled the garden once just before Easter. We like to till 3 times as it is great for keeping the weeds out. I hope to do it the second time tomorrow. I have to keep telling myself we are way ahead of schedule. Just waiting on the weather. Still 3 weeks away from our usual planting dates. I did a heavy pruning of the vertical branches on my pawpaw trees last year based on my studies. They were shooting up to 15 feet tall. Recommendations I saw were to whack those trunks down and cover them with coffee cans and the side branches would grow more and have more blossoms. Well it worked. No regrowth and side branches are loaded with tiny buds almost the size of green peas. I have a line on a 10 gallon bucket of horse manure to put at the tree bases when the flowers start to open. They are pollinated by flies not bees and we had some flies last year besides our hand pollinating. This year I am hoping to just use the manure and let nature take its course.
My spring GARLIC MUSTARD eradication efforts have begun.
I’m on year two, which is significant because this invasive weed is a biennial ... I should see real results next spring.
1. Hand pulling the plants now before they go to seed. Get the roots ... White flowers make it easy to spot them.
2. If you pull and leave on the ground, they’ll still grow and produce seeds.
3. Never throw the plants in your mulch pile! Garbage can! (The toxins in the leaves damage soil)
I’m limiting my efforts to 1/4 acre of the woods behind my house. The greater area of woods has been overrun with it. The garlic mustard situation is hopeless in North America. It is a mustard plant, with a garlic odor. Native to Morocco and other exotic locals.
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