Posted on 09/23/2019 6:09:12 PM PDT by SamAdams76
Steak and potatoes, creamed spinach, a stiff drink: the menu at your average steakhouse hasn’t changed for over 100 years. Americans flock to these palaces of meat, whether they’re upscale chains or a neighborhood spot whose décor hasn’t changed since the Reagan administration. Despite some falls in consumption in recent years due to price increases and health concerns, steak is still a very big deal in America. This week we’ll take a look at the steakhouse, an American institution.
Our modern steakhouse has two direct ancestors, the beefsteak banquet and the chophouse. Both arose, interestingly enough, in mid-19th century New York City, a town that got the best beef cuts the country had to offer because only there did diners have enough money to pay for them. Beefsteak banquets were primarily men-only political affairs, held as candidate fundraisers or to celebrate a recent victory. They got their name from what was served: sliced beef tenderloin, each piece placed upon a slice of white bread like an open faced sandwich. The bread slices, however, were rarely eaten and were mainly stacked besides each plate as an informal scorekeeping system for how much beef was consumed by the participants. No self-respecting gourmand wanted to fill up on bread when there was so much beef and beer available!
Chophouses were only slightly more civilized. They appeared in New York City in the mid-1800s to cater to merchants and clerks in need of a hot meal. By all accounts, chophouses were dark and dusty affairs: one of the more celebrated houses was named “Cobweb Hall,” after the décor. These restaurants served a more diverse menu than the beefsteaks. Mutton chops, lamb kidneys and sizzling strips of bacon were all served, alongside mealy baked potatoes and the ever-present tankards of British ale. As one reporter put it, “Those who don’t care for steaks can have chops, those who don’t care for chops can have steaks.” Dessert was apple pie, mince pie or a wedge of Stilton cheese.
The Old Homestead of New York’s Meatpacking District has the distinction of being the oldest continuously operating steakhouse in the country. It served its first charcoal broiled strip just after the Civil War, in 1868. In fact, a surprising number of steakhouses that opened around the same time are still open today: Keens and the Palm chain in Manhattan and the legendary Peter Luger in Brooklyn are all going strong today after a whopping combined 341 years in business. One key to their longevity is the fact that these restaurants were nicer than the chophouses—suitable even for ladies—with a clubby atmosphere and ingratiating waitstaff.
And the menus at these establishments are strikingly similar to what would have been served back at the turn of the century. Hashed brown potatoes, creamed spinach and cheesecake have always had their places at the steakhouse table. But while we think of bottles of hearty Zinfandels and Cabernets as proper accompaniments for a steak dinner, these restaurants never really focused on expansive wine lists. Beer was the beverage of choice up until Prohibition, and after that cocktails ruled the day. Extensive wine lists only appeared in the high-rolling days of the 1980s, when magnums of expensive reds were de riguer for Wall Street honchos.
Sounds great.....thanx.
I’m a bit partial to the cheap dollar general seasoned meat tenderizer. Works on all meats.
I’ll have to try St. Elmo’s as I’m only a hundred miles from Indy. I recall an excellent porterhouse at a steakhouse out in the desert northeast of Ft. Huachuca. A bunch of us went there during MIAOC back in 82. It was grilled over mesquite. There is also a steakhouse, The Depot Grille in Staunton, VA. It is in the old railroad station and they serve a fantastic prime rib.
With a Beer,
about 30 bucks.
.
I’m Really Hungry,
Thanks!
All-Nation Hobbies, west of Wells around Adams?
We were in Manhattan for just a couple days in December, and stayed next to Gallagher’s. What do you think of them? Great views of their aging room from the sidewalk, it looked great. Thought I should try it if I get back up that way.
https://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/06/ea/a9/08/gallagher-s-steak-house.jpg
people made me mean, the 'brown liquor' just made me express it). But, I still indulge in a double Wild Turkey on the rocks when I go home for Christmas and we dine at a rustic mountain lodge in the hills of western Maryland. Nothing like sitting beside a roaring fireplace with a glass of good bourbon, looking out the window at the snow gently falling, and waiting to be called to our table to order wild boar and venison sausage, and seared duck breast.
We’d drive up to Hammond/Gary from St. Joseph’s College and take the South Shore into the city. These were usually Saturday only trips, thus kept to the main downtown area. I remember seeing Dr. Zhivago, The Blue Max and Sound of Music there. And one theater trip to see the stage production of Cabaret with Joel Grey and Lotta Lenya from the original Broadway show.
Yeah, now I am, too, and I've been neglecting that roast beef and mashed potatoes and gravy out in the kitchen. I'm getting a warmed-up plate and a fresh cold one. I'll indulge in it all in your honor. LOL
Uh, this is Hyde Park we’re talking about, an outpost of civilization where the borders with The Hood are a bit fuzzy...outside of Museum of Science and Industry I’ve always been a bit nervous roaming around there.
Riding the old orange/maroon cars from the Twenties, I imagine?
No, it was a little shop on the 2nd story of a building on the north side of a street that crossed Michigan Ave and State Street, possibly Randolph or Lake. This was 50 years ago. I think I found an advertisement for it in a magazine or advertisement for the old HisAirDec decals, which was my main interest in buying there for using on my Revell and Airfix 1/72 model WW2 aircraft.
I don’t remember the color of the South Shore cars that we road on in the late 60s. I remember getting the “early edition” of the Sunday Tribune that was published on Saturday evening and was available at the train station. It cost 25 or 50 cents back then. At night I’d listen to the Meister Brau Showcase with John McCormick and wake up to Wally Phillips in the morning on WGN.
Nice read, just in time for the Wife’s birthday. As usual we will go to a Steakhouse dating back to the 50’s in So Cal. “The Magic Lamp” Red leather Booths, dark wood wall panels. Time has stood still. Very good old fashioned food....Prime Rib, Steaks, INCREDIBLE Jumbo Shrimp stuffed with real crab rapped in Bacon, Creamed Spinach and so on.
Beefsteaks still take place in North Jersey. Usually in VFW halls, Elks clubs, and the like.
For a good history, read Joseph Mitchell's classic "All You Can Hold for Five Bucks." Now, more like Fifty!
For me, it was in 1986, Goodfellow AFB, San Angelo. Zetner’s Daughter was the place!
http://www.zentnersdaughter.com/index.php
Oh my!
And there was this bar, O’Mally’s? can’t remember the name now, but they had slurpy machines pouring out Pena Coladas by the bowl, served with a spoon on hot Summer days.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle in Philly.
Get the bone-in filet.
Mine is always medium rare.
I’ve heard from the old folks that back in the day, a good steak house hung their beef until it had grown an inch of mold. I know of deer hunters who do this with their venison, are there any places that hang their beef like this? I’d love to try it.
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