A Rare History of the Steakhouse

History ^ | August 24, 2014 | Stephanie Butler

[SamAdams76]

Steak and potatoes, creamed spinach, a stiff drink: the menu at your average steakhouse hasn’t changed for over 100 years. Americans flock to these palaces of meat, whether they’re upscale chains or a neighborhood spot whose décor hasn’t changed since the Reagan administration. Despite some falls in consumption in recent years due to price increases and health concerns, steak is still a very big deal in America. This week we’ll take a look at the steakhouse, an American institution.

Our modern steakhouse has two direct ancestors, the beefsteak banquet and the chophouse. Both arose, interestingly enough, in mid-19th century New York City, a town that got the best beef cuts the country had to offer because only there did diners have enough money to pay for them. Beefsteak banquets were primarily men-only political affairs, held as candidate fundraisers or to celebrate a recent victory. They got their name from what was served: sliced beef tenderloin, each piece placed upon a slice of white bread like an open faced sandwich. The bread slices, however, were rarely eaten and were mainly stacked besides each plate as an informal scorekeeping system for how much beef was consumed by the participants. No self-respecting gourmand wanted to fill up on bread when there was so much beef and beer available!

Chophouses were only slightly more civilized. They appeared in New York City in the mid-1800s to cater to merchants and clerks in need of a hot meal. By all accounts, chophouses were dark and dusty affairs: one of the more celebrated houses was named “Cobweb Hall,” after the décor. These restaurants served a more diverse menu than the beefsteaks. Mutton chops, lamb kidneys and sizzling strips of bacon were all served, alongside mealy baked potatoes and the ever-present tankards of British ale. As one reporter put it, “Those who don’t care for steaks can have chops, those who don’t care for chops can have steaks.” Dessert was apple pie, mince pie or a wedge of Stilton cheese.

The Old Homestead of New York’s Meatpacking District has the distinction of being the oldest continuously operating steakhouse in the country. It served its first charcoal broiled strip just after the Civil War, in 1868. In fact, a surprising number of steakhouses that opened around the same time are still open today: Keens and the Palm chain in Manhattan and the legendary Peter Luger in Brooklyn are all going strong today after a whopping combined 341 years in business. One key to their longevity is the fact that these restaurants were nicer than the chophouses—suitable even for ladies—with a clubby atmosphere and ingratiating waitstaff.

And the menus at these establishments are strikingly similar to what would have been served back at the turn of the century. Hashed brown potatoes, creamed spinach and cheesecake have always had their places at the steakhouse table. But while we think of bottles of hearty Zinfandels and Cabernets as proper accompaniments for a steak dinner, these restaurants never really focused on expansive wine lists. Beer was the beverage of choice up until Prohibition, and after that cocktails ruled the day. Extensive wine lists only appeared in the high-rolling days of the 1980s, when magnums of expensive reds were de riguer for Wall Street honchos.

[Flick Lives]

“Those who don’t care for steaks can have chops, those who don’t care for chops can have steaks.” Dessert was apple pie, mince pie or a wedge of Stilton cheese.

—

Menu works for me.

[Dr. Sivana]

I also recall going to Chicago on weekends from college to visit Kroch’s and Brentano’s bookstore

You went to Chicago for bookstores and didn't go to Powells on 57th?

[Lurker]

Of course. I’ll want dessert.

L

[Man from Oz]

Last Thursday we cooked 250 Niman Ranch Prime CAB steaks for attendees that attended a Beef Stocker field day at Kansas State that I coordinated.

The steaks were pure heaven!!

MFO

[SamAdams76]

In 1982, I spent three weeks in Cedar Rapids, training for the Marine Crops at Rockwell-Collins. I remember a steakhouse near the Best Western Longbranch where I was staying. Can't remember the name of it but I think it was near a shopping mall.

Anyway, I went there about 10 nights for dinner and it was all covered by per diem.

[SamAdams76]

Yes, Ken’s steakhouse in Framingham! Been there a few times when I lived in the area. The salad dressings can be found in most northeastern supermarkets even today.

[Ken H]

Sounds like a Trump rally.

[Liz]

Cowboy Rib Eye Steak / Whiskey Butter

MAKE RUB tb ea chile powder, chipotle chile powder, sugar-in-the-raw, 1/2 tb ea smoked paprika, wh/pepper, tea black pepper.

STEAK Set on counter 20 min before grilling 2" thick bone-in ribeye steaks (about a pound each). P/towel excess moisture. Just before grilling, brush w/ oil. Sprinkle rub. bit salt on steaks; pat in with fingers. Place steaks directly over medium-high heat about 5 min. Turn/grill 5 min for med-rare. Let rest at least 5 min. Top hot steaks with Whiskey Butter. SERVE in slices.

Whiskey Butter 2 sticks sweet butter, 2 shallots, soaked in whiskey, 3 tea minced parsley, 1/2 tea Dijon, 1/2 teaspoon Worc, 3 tea Jack Daniels, 1/2 tea sea salt, wh/pepper. Mix well. Drop spoonfuls onto waxed paper. Roll into log on saran. Firm/frige 3 hours. Stores a week, or freeze 3 months.

[Sawdring]

I’m partial to my local Higher Steaks franchise.

[Southside_Chicago_Republican]

Boy, a steak sounds good right now. I had a decent dinner, but not steak.

[o-n-money]

I miss The Ground Round. The one by me is now an IHOP. No beer.

[2ndDivisionVet]

If you ever go back try Leonardo’s pizza. Best I’ve ever had.

[VeniVidiVici]

I have NO IDEA what it is like today but when I was stationed in San Angelo, TX in 1984, Western Sky steakhouse was da bomb!!

I’ll never forget they had Sirloin steaks listed on the menu as:

Small: $8.25
Medium: $8.50
Large: $8.75

Ummmm, I’ll take the Large please :)

It was like butter. I’m a Ribeye guy but this Sirloin from Western Sky was beyond compare. Draped the plate too.

http://www.westernskysteakhouse.org/

[mylife]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzMlaEdRT0Y

[VeniVidiVici]

Isn’t the Hilltop closed now? I’ve been there MANY years ago :)

[weps4ret]

Best Steakhouse I have ever eaten at, St. Elmo’s, Indianapolis, Indiana. Amazing Baseball steak an amazing wine list.

Gunner

[Jane Long]

A few of my top fave steakhouses, across this great nation...

Pappas Bros (Houston) - the A5 (strip) is excellent

Vic & Anthony’s (Houston)

Keen’s (NYC)

Bern’s (Tampa)

Have tried Peter Luger, in B’lynn......meh.

Chicago has some nice steakhouses, as well.

BLT Prime, at Trump Hotel DC, isn’t too shabby, either.

[SamAdams76]

Yes, Hilltop is no longer. They still got the sign as a landmark but it’s mostly condos now with a few restaurants slated to open soon (if not already).

[Viking2002]

I did look at the menus of those restaurants you mentioned, and they looked fantastic, in and of themselves. I’ve aways been a bit of a purist about steak. It’s the cut and the method of cooking that is most enjoyable to me, and the tenderness. I’ve never really been a big fan of them being crusted in Bleu cheese and skillet seared, or having a peppercorn sauce ladled on top, or anything like that. There are steak snobs out there who would consider me ‘pedestrian’, but the cut of beef and means of locking in the juices count the most. I’m happy with a bottle of A1, Lea & Perrins, or London Pub sauce. A potato done right, with butter, sour cream, and cracked pepper or broiled fingerling potatoes, if available. Cold Iceberg lettuce salad (OK, that’s where the Bleu cheese comes in). Hot rolls and butter. My doctor will now officially perform a mercy killing before my triglycerides do. LOL!

[LesbianThespianGymnasticMidget]

I have a 1 hp Lem grinder that can grind something like 400lb an hour but for making burgers there is an easy way with lots less set up and clean up. Cube your meat into 1 inch cubes and throw them in the freezer for 45 minutes. Then toss about 1/4th of a food processor full then pulse till it looks like ground beef. Repeat till done.

If you use it immediately you are pretty safe to go as low as a rare burger.

You can make some awesome burgers this way. Blend in flanken brisket or whatever to boost the beefyness. My fav blend is 1/4th brisket and flanken each and 1/2 chuck. 20% fat or so. Cast iron heated to 500 degrees in the oven and then on the stove on high. It is going to smoke like a mother so consider that, but it is worth it. Better than charcoal grilled.