Posted on 11/10/2017 8:25:47 AM PST by TNoldman
I am now a supporter of a Round in the Chamber on my carry 1911 ACP. (I always carry a Hand Gun away from home).
Here is my story from just a couple of days ago. "My Wife and I were taking our 7 yo Granddaughter to a Roller Skating place. I realized we would be near a not-so-good part of town so I decided to carry my 1911 ACP."
To be better prepared I decided to rack the slide to load a round! What happened next was chilling.
The round didn't quite load - it jammed. Now I had a round part way into the chamber but not gripped by the ejector. I had a SS $700. brick.
If I can carelessly rack the slide in the comfort of my home what might happen in a stressed situation?
A lesson well learned for me.
The 1911 is single action only (except for some non-standard more exotic variants). If the hammer is down, all the pulling of the trigger in the world will not make it move. You must cock the hammer before the trigger will do anything - either by manually earing the hammer back or by racking the slide.
Single then double action is not a thing in any major self-loading pistol type. Double then single as you continue to fire is, as is double action only. The 1911 is single action only.
All 1911’s are not alike.
When I teach pistol classes, the 1911’s we demonstrate with are loaded by inserting a mag with the slide locked back, then pulling back on the slide and releasing so it snaps forward with the full force of the spring. For most 1911’s I am aware of this is the recommended method of loading. Many semi-autos recommend pressing down on the slide lock/release to let the slide snap forward. Since I don’t know what your particular manufacturer recommends, I’d just say check your owners manual.
But many other things could cause the feed jam on loading. Reloads are notorious for not being resized properly if not reloaded by someone who knows what he is doing well. I have also seen on rare occasion new ammunition that just would not feed well because it seems the QA in the factory wasn’t up to snuff and they were not sized properly.
Finally, some 1911’s are precisely manufactured and have little tolerance for out of spec ammo. These guns, ie Kimber, are known for accuracy, thus the precise machining and tolerances. Many of the cheaper 1911’s have more ‘slop’ in their machining, may even rattle a bit when you shake them, and are likely less accurate. But these still function, and may even function smoother with ammo that is not sized properly.
Just some thoughts.
Oh, and the 1911 is made to be ‘locked and cocked’ so you came to the right conclusion even if you had to experience this failure to get there.
:)
No - a 1911 action is strictly a single-action pistol, i.e. the trigger does not draw the hammer back to strike the firing pin. A fully-ready 1911 is referred to as cocked and locked - the hammer is back and the safety is locked into the on position with a round in the chamber. Firing then requires drawing the pistol, unlocking the safety, taking the proper grip so the grip safety is depressed, and pressing the trigger to fire the chambered round and cycle the slide to load another round while cocking the hammer.
***I had a SS $700. brick. ***
Sounds like my first stainless steel AMT Hardballer Jammamatic.
Second one works perfectly. Also super accurate.
“Airweight Bodyguard (the shrouded, but exposed hammer variety).”
A bobbed hammer on a Chief’s Special also works well for snag-free carry.
As far as I’m aware, drawing back the slide to its maximum travel then releasing it is the standard method for loading all Browning-pattern semi-auto pistols. Some makers say that releasing it from the slide release is okay in addition, but no maker I can recall says the slide release is the primary means of putting the weapon into battery and several specifically discommend the slide release as a means to ready the pistol. Certainly pulling the slide back to its maximum extent and releasing it is the best way to go, for sure. :)
Really? I honestly did not know this. Thank you much, FRiends.
Gold Cup 1911
always loads.
I have learned that, despite all the general gun operating rules, I can find an exception to just about every single one of them in gun design and manufacturers recommended SOP. Things like never dry fire a rim fire without a snap cap or empty brass in the chamber, or its always ok to dry fire a center fire when its empty. Some manufacturers occasionally recommend differently. So I always caveat by saying check your owners manual.
>>A bobbed hammer on a Chief’s Special also works well for snag-free carry.
The Airweight hammerless 442 is even better than that, but I chose 10 rounds over 5 or 6. But now I’m down to 7 with my G43.
Learn how to clear it and practice that along with other things that could go wrong like a stove pipe or your mag falls out. Practice Practice
“When chambering a round in an 1911, I always lock the slide open, insert loaded magazine and use the slide release to load the chamber. “
Thats the way I was taught in competitive USAF pistol shooting.
Remove magazine.
Rack slide again.
Insert magazine.
Rack again.
NBD
L
I carry a Colt Mustang .380, 1911 style. Since it’s easy to work everything with one hand, I carry one in the chamber, but let the hammer down easy on it and then put on the safety. There’s no backstrap safety on .380’s.
I know, I know - That requires two operations with my thumb, but it’s quick. You can’t do that with a full size 1911, too big.
The possibility of unintentional discharges scares the crap out of me. I just can’t carry a Glock because there’s no safety lever. I understand the trigger, I just can’t get past it.
“Wheel guns don’t “jam”.
I beg to differ. I have a Colt Python. No doubt the apex of revolvers. One day at the range it locked up solid. The problem was a bullet had worked loose in the chamber freezing the cylinder solidly.
So much for that myth.
L
“Certainly pulling the slide back to its maximum extent and releasing it is the best way to go, for sure. :)
“
I’ve had the slide slip out my hand on the way back.Guess what...not ready.
“No reason not to carry with one in the pipe if you’re using a quality holster.”
If it’s a Glock then you are essentially walking around with the equivalent of an eared back revolver.
1983. I just bought a Dan Wesson model 15-2V, 2.5" and 6" barrels. I was using factory ammo .357 Mag semi-jacketed hollow points on the range when I touched off a round and the cylinder refused to advance. The spent primer in the now-empty case had backed out and would not allow the cylinder to turn.
Though yours was factory ammo, that is a good reason not to push your luck with reloading max charges.
My Glock 22 did that. The magazine had burs at the opening and was mishapen a bit from careless loading. It’s been fine since but, I lubed the magizine, worked on my racking method and keep one in the chamber. I think it’s a matter of maintenance.
The opening of the magizine is a bit flimsy.
It’s an early Glock and I wonder if newer is much different.
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