Posted on 05/11/2016 7:46:48 AM PDT by TheDandyMan
I just brought home my first AR-15, specifically a Ruger AR556. My understanding, based on the condition of AR-15's I've handled and general hearsay from friends who own AR's has always been that AR-15's, generally speaking, like to be well-lubricated.
However, the clerk I bought it from said that the AR556 prefers "not a whole lot of oil" and the videos Ruger puts out on the AR556 say not to go ham with the lube as well...This doesn't gel with what other people have told me, and furthermore, I've always erred on the side of keeping my guns quite well-oiled. Obviously I'll get a better feel for what works best for the 556 once I've put some use in the thing, but in general is there any reason that I should expect to treat an AR-15 any differently from my other guns in terms of lubrication?
You CAN’T over-lube an AR. If you won’t take Larry Vickers’ word on the matter, you’re beyond convincing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9bOT_d60LM
I remember reading that back in 1968, the Vietnam war saw so bad on M-16s that a company named DRI-SLIDE was sending lots of a dry lube to the soldiers there.
Where I live now, NW Arkansas, I have to keep all guns and iron items covered with petroleum Jelly, and a small amount of oil or WD-40 on the interior.
Go the army way lightly. Oi trigger group wiring off excess. Oiled pistons are an anathma due to carborization. You absolutely do not oil M1, M1 carbine, M14 gas pistons due to the fact. Excess oil is always problem be it desert or artic. Excess oil is aso easy to get into the chamber causing excess pressure and accellerated extraction.
For later.
L
Get some Ballistol (Ballistic Oil) and use it. Ballistol leaves a residue that protects metal and makes it very slick. Plus the smell makes for entertaining times with your spouse and others in the vicinity.
What MW said. We overlube them for their first FA session, thoroughly clean and lave pretty much dry for use. CLP is the bomb.
Uhm, well...the first thing that comes to mind is THE FRICKIN' GAS PISTON! ;o)
The wetter the better..... Yeah....
In the military, you fire your AR with blanks a lot of the time, and the blank adapter pretty much blocks the barrel, so all that gunk ends up in your receiver & on the bolt. We always lubed things a lot heavier than normal for that type of thing. Few civilians are shooting full auto ARs either, so typically no reason to apply extra lube. For many years, I used nothing but LSA & CLP and never really had any problems. I tend to use more “high tech” synthetic stuff now, but couldn’t really prove to you that it’s that much better.
The piston gun will not blow oil out of the upper receiver, so not so much. I use Tetra Gun Grease, which is a white, teflon-based grease. I only apply it to the four contact points on my bolt carrier and around the bolt itself. When I run it HOT, I use BreakFree CLP to keep it somewhat wet.
I've used everything from Tetra-Lube to sewing machine oil. Anal lube is right out. Or so I've been told.
Honestly, and not being a wise-ass here: Read the manual that comes with it. Failing that, you can find M16/M4 mil-spec manuals online, which will have the lube specs in it, in the preventive maintenance section. And listen to the folks who’ve used it’s full-auto brother in combat.
See TM 9-1005-249-10 - Operator’s Manual for M16 and M16A1.
Chapter 3, Section I has the lubrication points and instructions.
When I attended the Infantry Officer Basic Course (IOBC) at Fort Benning (1971), we were not assigned our own M16 but drew one any time the instruction required. They would bring rifle racks on the back of a 2 1/2 ton truck. You filed by and were given a rifle. We did not clean them after the instruction. The took the rifles in their racks and dipped them into a tank of lubricant.
You learned to bring a roll of paper towels when drawing weapons. First step, very carefully take the rifle. While pointing the rifle down in a safe direction, pull back the bolt while pouring a quart or so of lubricant out of the bore. Safe direction meant be careful not to get the lubricant on your buddies. Use at least half a roll of paper towels to clean the rest of the rifle.
About 125 officers each firing about a thousand rounds, do not remember a malfunction in the entire company. I would not treat a personal weapon this way.
You should remember that much of the Army’s method of lubricating and storing small arms has to do with inspections. Lubricant attracts dirt. Dirt attracts failing inspections.
It is sprayed on with an aerosol, then dries to form a waxy lube that doesn't sling off like all other petroleum-based lubricants. (See: http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612)
If the bolt is piston-actuated, you don't want to use any lube on the piston as that will foul and jam. You should only lube the bolt/bolt carrier.
Just read that the AR-556 is a gas-impingement system like the original AR-15, not piston actuated like the M1, M14, AK-series.
When my dad was a state trooper sergeant they had an inspection of the troops. After cleaning and detailing the cruiser, polishing all his brass and leather he was all set. As a finishing touch he scotch taped a sticker on the rear bumper of the patrol car that said "How's my driving? Dial 1-800-EAT-$HI+". The lieutenant laughed his butt off.
Yep....has that flared receptor tube that engulfs the gas tube from up front.
Exhaust gases in the bolt chamber
I have a bottle of LSA I use for my 1970 Colt SP-1
I do the same thing -- and when I'm hearing that I should be sparing with the lube on a particular gun, I'm afraid that that one will feel like I love it less.
Thanks for all the input. My habit is to oil heavy and do a full breakdown/clean on a rotation regardless of use but it sounds like the AR should get less lube.
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