Posted on 02/02/2011 3:08:04 PM PST by Bean Counter
Our 1985 model 50 gallon electric hot water heater is original to our house and has been extremely reliable since we have lived here, but lately it is showing signs of age and I wonder if there is anything I can do to extend its life.
It takes a lot longer for it to recover after one use, a shower or a load of laundry, than it used to. Also I have been cleaning particles of white crusty debris out of our various hot water strainers and it's clear the stuff is coming from the hot water heater.
Is there anything I can do short of replacing it, that will restore some of it's heating capacity in whole or in part? Am I better advised to wait until it fails completely, or should I be looking at replacing it now before it goes?
A new 80 gallon electric tank will fit in this one's place and runs about $600. I'm almost certain that a new electric water heater will be more efficient than the 25 year old model so there will probably be some modest savings on our electric bill. The main goal is to restore our hot water in the steady volume we used to get.
This is the last appliance in the house that we have not upgraded, repaired or replaced, and I think the time to kiss it goodbye is drawing near...
Compared to a 25 yr old water heater? ya gotta be kidding right
Yes thanks for the info lol. Our tankless heater runs on propane but it has not enjoyed the price drop NG has seen (has actually doubled in cost for us in the last ten years). Also, customer will generally be responsible for the full cost of piping and tank lease.
Some things do not get better with age. Girls in bars and water heaters are two of em.
Here’s a bit of advice from a retired plumber...
From what you describe, I would guess that the lower element has burned out. This is usually caused by a lime build-up in the tank. Lime forms on the element during the heating process. Elements can be changed and it should be good as new - even if it is 25 years old.
There are two coverplates on the side of the WH. The lower one is probably the culprit. Elements are usually bolted into the tank with 3 or 4 bolts.
If you decide to change the element vs replace the tank, start by disconnecting the power to the water heater. Next turn off the water supply to the tank. There should be a valve on the cold water feed line.
Next, hook up a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. Hopefully there is a floor drain near the tank. Open the valve and begin the draining process. It is advisable to open a faucet in a sink at a higher elevation than the water heater. This will allow the water to flow out quicker. It may take up to an hour for the water to drain out of the tank.
Once the tank is empty, disconnect the wires fastened to the element. Then unscrew the bolts holding the element in place. The element should be stamped with it’s wattage, likely 4500 watts. Take the element to hardware store to match up a new one. It should also come with a round rubber gasket which you will need when replacing the element.
Before installing the new element, check the inside of the tank for a large accumulation of lime (white gritty chunks). Fashion a coat-hanger with a hook on the end and begin the process of scrapping the lime out of the tank by dragging it to the opening. You will not be able to remove all the lime, but will be able to get most of it out.
Once the lime has been removed, install the new element, connect the wires to the element and begin filling the water heater by opening the valve. Leave a faucet open on the hot side so the air will bleed out. Once the tank is filled, and no leaks appear, replace the cover plates and turn the power back on.
It will take about an hour for the water to reach max temperature and you should get plenty of hot water for baths, showers and laundry. This whole process may take 4 hours to complete.
Good luck. You just saved yourself a bunch of money not spent on a service call.
If there are signs of water around the water heater before you start this project, you will need to replace the WH.
As mentioned in an up-thread reply, periodically hook a hose to the drain on the tank to drain out lime build-up.
Again, good luck.
Don’t clean it! The rust and deposits are probably the only thing holding the poor old thing together.
Looking to see what people say about tankless.
Of course, the mineral build-up and corrosion reduces efficiency. But your original statement was implying that heater technology has changed materially, when it is really just the insulation that makes much difference.
“. You’re next one won’t last as long....”
My little 40 gallon lo-boy only lasted 18 years.
ok then, go stick some insulation around a 25 year old water heater and have at it
I considered a flash style heater as an upgrade to
my 50 gas, 50,000 BTU unit. The flash burner is
128,000 BTU. It requires significant upgrades to
the vent. The vent upgrades alone would have
been $1,000. I replaced the heater with another
50 gal, 50,000 BTU from Lowe’s. Did all the labor
myself. Carted the old tank to the local recycler.
Total cost around $300 in parts.
I believe conventional wisdom is that if you haven’t been flushing the tank our regularly, now is NOT the time to do so. Chances are pretty good it will start leaking from the area of the tank previously filled with sediment. Time for a new tank.
.
Before you buy a larger one make sure your house wiring is large enough! And the correct voltage!
We have natural soft water here and it isn’t unusual to actually do that. Also, most tank drip pans are connected to drain plumbing so leaks *usually* aren’t that big a deal in terms of damage to the house. But a catastrophic dump would be something else.
Propane provides my heat, hot water and cooking. Even at its elevated price, it’s still a good deal.
I must have bad luck.
hook a hose to the bottom drain and let some water out. you will see deposits if they are there. drain it out.
It is likely the bottotm element is burned out.
The solution is to drain the sediments and replace the element
It is probably best to replace it. It has served 25 years
My goodness, the labor for venting my 175,000 BTU Bosch AquaStar was only $100 (new vent through the roof), but that was in 1999. My, how labor costs have increased.
Nobody hurt, but big news around here a few years ago.
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