Posted on 03/05/2010 5:04:40 AM PST by Red_Devil 232
Good morning gardeners! Here in Central Mississippi spring type weather will be here soon. I can feel the warmth at the other end of the tunnel! Highs for the next week will be in the 60’s and 70’s and I will be out in the garden and yard cleaning up. I will have around two or three weeks to get the garden area in shape before any plants get transplanted into the garden. Spring officially starts March 20.
If you are just starting out gardening and are in need of advice or just encouragement please feel free to join in. There are many Freepers from all over the Good Ol’ USA that are willing and eager to help.
The Weekly Gardening ping list has grown to 303 Freepers as of yesterday.
Yes. Heat and crush them with a big old wooden spoon as they soften. It doesn’t take long. I didn’t show the pictures of straining and crushing them; it’s like watching sausage being made, LOL!
You should add a little water to the pot to keep from burning the bottom of the pot, but everyone ‘round here is used to ‘Diana’s Smokey Flavored Grapejuice’ and they ask for it by name, LOL!
Sounds like a great name for a wine! LOL
Our Yellow Lab, Lucy, is from a local breeder (I am over-the-moon in love with her!) and our Basset was from the Portage, WI area...but we got drunk and ended up taking him home with us one night...TEN years ago, LOL!
After adding him to the family, we don't drink anymore, LOL! (He's a handful!)
And he's currently in the Witness Protection Program, though he won't tell us why...probably something to do with the wealthy neighbor's poodle!
That would probably mean burning down the barn while I was making it, LOL!
I did start up another jug of Cranberry Wine today. I’ve been a busy girl! :)
What kind if cranerry juice do you use for your wine making?
Heard about the chickens killing a fox that got into their hen house?
Thank you! Lucy is a pretty girl. Very sweet and eager to please, just as a Lab should be. Or a husband. :)
“What kind if cranberry juice do you use for your wine making?”
I’ve been using ‘Old Orchard’, which is 100% juice. Frozen, 12 oz. concentrate, thawed.
“Heard about the chickens killing a fox that got into their hen house?”
Um...No. But I wouldn’t doubt it. I have one really mean rooster who won’t even take orders from ME...the hand that feeds him!
I was pleasantly surprised how inexpensive a “full-spectrum” fluorescent bulb was at Home Depot or Lowe’s (~ $6). I already had a fluorescent base to plug it in, but a replacement base was only an additional $13 or so. I believe Diana suggests we keep the plants no more than a few inches from the bulb.
One year when making pickles...added dried instead of fresh hot peppers..They had quite a zing!..
Lable said: “Hot too, Molly’s Pickles”
You got off CHEAP. I think our 48” full-spectrum bulbs are like $18!! Stock up!
And, yes. 2-4” above the plant at all times is perfect lighting for them. (Move the lights up or the plants down as they grow, depending upon your set-up.)
And if your seedlings need to be grown in a cool room (mine survive for a month or so in a 55-degree fieldstone basement with clear plastic thrown over the whole works for additional warmth) the lights need to be on 16 hours a day and then off for 8 so they can rest.
Just like people. :)
What Is Backyard Orchard Culture? Download a Printable Version
The objectives of Backyard Orchard Culture are
For years, most of the information about growing fruit came from commercial orchard culture: methods that promoted maximum size for maximum yield but required 12-foot ladders for pruning, thinning and picking, and 400 to 600 square feet of land per tree. Tree spacing had to allow for tractors.
Most people today do not need or expect commercial results from their backyard fruit trees. A commercial grower would never consider using his methods on a 90 ft. x 100 ft. parcel, so why should a homeowner?
Maximize the length of the fruit season by planting several (or many) fruit varieties with different ripening times.
Because of the limited space available to most homeowners, this means using one or more of the techniques for close-planting and training fruit trees; two, three or four trees in one hole, espalier, and hedgerow are the most common of these techniques.
Four trees instead of one means ten to twelve weeks of fruit instead of only two or three.
Close planting offers the additional advantage of restricting a tree's vigor. A tree won't grow as large when there are competing trees close by. Close-planting works best when rootstocks of similar vigor are planted together.
For example, using a four-in-one-hole planting, four trees on Citation rootstock would be easier to maintain than a combination of one tree on Lovell, one on Mazzard, one on Citation, and one on M-27.
In many climates, planting more varieties can also mean better cross-pollination of pears, apples, plums and cherries, which means more consistent production.
Small trees yield crops of manageable size and are much easier to spray, thin, prune, net, and harvest than large trees.
If trees are kept small, it is possible to plant a greater number of trees, affording the opportunity for more kinds of fruit and a longer fruit season.
Most semi-dwarfing rootstocks do not control fruit-tree size as much as you might expect.
Rootstocks can help to improve soil and climate adaptation, pest and disease resistance, precocity (heavy bearing in early years), tree longevity, and ease of propagation.
To date, no rootstocks have been developed which do all these things, plus fully-dwarf the scion.
Pruning is the only way to keep most fruit trees under twelve feet tall.
The most practical method of pruning is Summer Pruning.
Tree size is the grower's responsibility. Choose a size and don't let the tree get any bigger. A good height is the height you can reach for thinning and picking while standing on the ground, or while standing on a low stool.
Two other important influences on tree size are irrigation and fertilization practices. Fruit trees should not be grown with lots of nitrogen and lots of water. Some people grow their fruit trees the way they do their lawn, then wonder why the trees are so big and don't have any fruit!
It's much easier to keep a small tree small
than it is to make a large tree small.
Most kinds of deciduous fruit trees require pruning to stimulate new fruiting wood, to remove broken and diseased wood, to space the fruiting wood, and to allow good air circulation and sunlight penetration in the canopy.
Pruning is most important in the first three years, because this is when the shape and size of a fruit tree is established.
Pruning at the same time as thinning the crop is strongly recommended.
By pruning when there is fruit on the tree, the kind of wood on which the tree sets fruit (one year-old wood, two year-old wood, spurs, etc.) is apparent, which helps you to make better pruning decisions.
There are several reasons why summer pruning is the easiest way to keep fruit trees small. Reducing the canopy by pruning in summer reduces photosynthesis (food manufacture), thereby reducing the capacity for new growth. Summer pruning also reduces the total amount of food materials and energy available to be stored in the root system in late summer and fall. This controls vigor the following spring, since spring growth is supported primarily by stored foods and energy. And, obviously, pruning is easier (and more likely to get done) in nice weather than in winter.
Backyard Orchard Culture Means Not Being Intimidated By Planting Or Pruning
Fruit tree planting and pruning needn't be complicated or confusing. When planting, be aware of air circulation. This is important in cutting down disease problems. Check drainage. If poor-draining soils are suspected, consider a raised bed to protect the trees from starving for oxygen in heavy soils. Up to 4 trees can be planted in a 4x4 foot bed raised up at least 12 inches. Larger beds can accommodate more trees.
Pruning Backyard Orchard Culture is simple. When planting a bareroot tree, cut side limbs back by at least two-thirds to promote vigorous new growth. Then, two or three times per year, cut back or remove limbs and branches to accomplish the following:
At planting time, bareroot trees may be topped as low as 15 inches up from the ground to force very low scaffold limbs or trees may be topped higher than 15 inches (up to four feet) depending on the presence of well-spaced existing side limbs or desired tree form. After the spring flush of growth cut the new growth back by half (late April/early May in Central Calif.). In late summer (late August to mid-September) cut the subsequent growth back by half. Size control and development of low-fruiting wood begins now.
When selecting containerized trees for planting in late spring/early summer, select trees with well-placed low scaffold limbs. These are usually trees that were cut back at planting time to force low growth. Cut back new growth by half now, and again in late summer.
Two, Three or Four trees in one hole
At planting time, plant each tree 18 to 24 inches apart. Cut back all trees to the same height.
Cut back new growth by half in spring and late summer as above. In the first two years especially, cut back vigorous varieties as often as necessary.
Do not allow any variety to dominate and shade out the others.
Plant each grouping of 3 or 4 trees in one hole at least 12 to 15 inches apart to allow for adequate light penetration and good air circulation.
Hedgerow plantings:
Easiest to maintain when spaced at least 3 or more feet apart. Make sure that the placement of the hedgerow does not block air circulation and light from other plantings.
To conserve water:
for single trees, apply at least a 4-inch layer of mulch up to 4 feet from the tree or from the center of the planting of 2, 3, or 4 trees in one hole.
Pruning is the same as the first year: cut back new growth by half in spring and late summer.
Pruning three times may be the easiest way to manage some vigorous varieties: Prune in the spring, early summer and late summer.
Thin to an open center beginning in the second season.
Prune single-tree plantings to vase shape.
Multi-plantings: thin out the center to allow plenty of sunlight into the interior of the group of trees.
Remove broken limbs. Remove diseased limbs well below signs of disease.
Choose a height and don't let the tree get any taller.
Tree height is the decision of the pruner. When there are vigorous shoots above the chosen height, cut back or remove them. Again, in late spring/early summer, cut back all new growth by at least half.
The smaller one, two, and three-year-old branches that bear the fruit should have at least six inches of free space all around. This means that where two branches begin close together and grow in the same direction, one should be removed.
When limbs cross one another, one or both should be cut back or removed.
When removing large limbs, first saw part way through the limb on the under side ahead of your intended cut. Do this so it won't tear the trunk as it comes off. Also, don't make the final cut flush with the trunk or parent limb and be sure to leave a collar (a short stub).
Apricots will require more pruning in the summer to control height. Prune as needed (2 to 3 times in the summer) to keep the tree from getting too much growth. Be careful not to cut too much at one time, this will cause excess sun exposure of unprotected limbs, which can cause sunburn to the interior limbs.
To develop an espalier, fan, or other two-dimensional form, simply remove everything that doesn't grow flat. Selectively thin and train what's left to space the fruiting wood.
Don't let pruning decisions inhibit you or slow you down. There are always multiple acceptable decisions - no two people will prune a tree in the same way. You learn to prune by pruning!
For further advice consult your nursery professional
Smaller trees are easier to spray, prune, thin, net and harvest! With small trees, it's possible to have more varieties that ripen at different times. The easiest way to keep trees small is by summer pruning. There are lots of styles, methods and techniques of summer pruning; most of them are valid. The important thing is to prune!
The concepts and techniques of Backyard Orchard Culture are learned and implemented year by year. An integral part of Backyard Orchard Culture is knowing your nursery professionals and consulting with them when you have questions.
There is a definite sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, a special pleasure in growing your own fruit, growing new varieties of fruit, producing fruit that is unusually sweet and tasty, having fruit over a long season, and in sharing tree-ripe fruit with others. These are the rewards of learning and experimenting with new cultural practices and techniques as you become an accomplished backyard fruit grower.
There's no excuse for neglected trees, maintenance undone or lack of know-how.
Backyard Orchard Culture is an attitude: Just Do It!
I grew AMAZING tomatoes using this last season; of course at the end the late blight got me, as it got us all, but my tomato and pepper plants never looked healthier - up until the very day that they died, LOL!
I can't imagine what they'd produce in a GOOD year!
Here is one of the weekly batches of tomato sauce. 
Thanks for the ping.
Yes, you need 2 trees for PawPaw, and they are very tall.
Hall’s Hardy Almond makes a pretty lawn tree grows 15-25’. It has pink blossoms in the spring. zones 5-9. Almonds help raise the hdl(good cholestrol).
Thanks for sharing! I forgot all about green tomato relish. Nothin’ finer! :)
I think 7 days might be good minimum for the hardening off period. Oh and during this period I give them a drink of diluted fish emulsion. I would not worry about a strict time table for this hardening off. Last year the plants that I started as seed had to wait two weeks in this limbo because of weather.
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