Bkmk
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1) AR-15 with holographic sight
2) 12 gauge shotgun
3) .22LR lever action rifle
4) .44 magnum lever action rifle
5) 9mm semi-auto pistol
1. 5.56 AR
2. 22lr auto or revolver.
3. 12 ga, 20 inch barrel.
4. Glock in 9mm.
Anything beyond this list is hard to manage if you have to bug out.
.22lr ammo will be THE barter material for parts and other ammo, so you want an abundance. I buy anything on sale, no matter the brand because it's not for shooting.
Everyone should have:
1) AR-15 in 5.56/.223 (or as close as you can get in slave states)
2) Rifle in .22LR
3) Shotgun in 12 GA
4) Lever or bolt action rifle in a common hunting caliber (.30-30, .308, or .30-06 for example)
5) Handgun in 9mm
Once you have this core group, then you can add your Zombie .50 AE Deagle, your precision 6.5 Creedmore, etc.
But when the SHTF, you want usable weapons in ammo-scroungable calibers.
First step is what situations you envision are likely: home invasion? survival in the woods? forming part of a neighborhood defense team? How long do you see combat lasting?
What sort of adversaries do you think you will have to deal with and how many?
Then you assess your skills and the skills of your team and what weapons and calibers can be shared and employed.
The writer dismisses .308/7.62mm NATO out of hand for long range shooting - so how far does he see the conceptual ranges to be? The longest range I ever engaged anybody with my M-14 was 600m and I am sure I got him. Going to a non-plentiful and expensive caliber like 6.5 Creedmoor would be self-defeating.
Unless someone thinks that CWII is real possibility, stick with a reliable 12 gauge. It is an effective killer, doesn't penetrate walls if you're loaded with birdshot and if a war never happens, you can always go quail hunting.
Bump
I like the 6.5 but my first rule of firearms is I don’t buy a caliber that ammo isn’t cheap and plentiful at Wal-Mart. (this means it is widely used and available everywhere) - that’s why I stick with the 308 which I’ve learned to shoot quite adequate for any needs I may have. I really like the idea of a pistol caliber carbine and pistol of the same caliber - so you can focus on stocking up on a single caliber of ammo. A 357 lever action and revolver have been a traditional choice but if one is starting now a 9mm handgun and one of the increasingly popular 9 mm carbines is a good choice due to the wide and cheap supply of ammo. Of course a shotgun is essential. Having interchangeable 18” and 22” barrels is a plus.
I would also note that the shooting advantages of the the Creedmoor apply to only about the 1 in 100,000 people who can take advantage of them. The vast majority (95% easily) of people can't hit anything out past 300 yards (if that far) and the real advantages of the Creedmoor don't show up until you are shooting well past that distance.
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So many good choices, so little time (and so little space left in the boat for my next lake trip).
1. Some sort of 12 gauge. I liked my Remington 870. It’s reliable, and I don’t mind the trivial delay to work the pump in contrast to a semi-automatic. Warning - as I discovered on my latest canoe excursion, they don’t float. But you need a shotgun regardless of your location/situation. Recoil? I like the reduced recoil loads for those who don’t want the kick of a regular 12 gauge.
2. Every decent person should have an AR. For most of us, that’s an AR-15, for some it’s AR-10, or both, but just about all of us should have at least one with some version of holographic sight. Cheap AR-15s and expensive ones have the same muzzle velocity, the same rate of fire, and only small differences in accuracy and comfort. Similarly, cheap and expensive holographic sights have different visual quality, but that hardly matters inside 200 yards.
3. We all need a .22LR rifle. It can be bolt, semi, lever, or whatever, but everyone should have a rifle that can be used for 100+ rounds of practice a day without noticing the hit to the wallet. The same for a .22LR pistol, whether semi, revolver, or something else.
4. We all need a handgun. For some people, that’s a wheel gun (I’m learning to like those, at least with the SA/DA choice). For some it’s the 1911 we trained on, or a Glock, or some other semi. People will argue .45 v. 9mm, magazine capacity v. stopping power, but what really matters is that you practice with it enough to hit at the relevant distance - and that you can and will carry it when and where you might need it. The S&W 500 and Desert Eagle are great for stopping power, but they have limited utility for concealed carry.
5. I think everyone should have a scoped bolt-action rifle. Perhaps a scoped lever rifle, but something meant for thoughtful and accurate longer-range shots, rather than rapid fire.
6. If you live in squirrel/bunny country, an air rifle is fabulous. I get lots of target practice for under a penny a shot, which is even less than .22LR. I take one squirrel or bunny on a regular schedule, just to stay in practice on that skill (and on the follow-up recipes).
Some of my choices:
- Classic 12 gauge Remington 870
- Ruger 10/22 takedown, integrally silenced, with a red dot
- Colt .22LR revolver with iron sights (sadly, I need reading glasses for maximum accuracy with that fabulous firearm)
- Glock 17 with RMR optic, Les Baer 1911 in .45 ACP and with tritium sights
- Browning BLR Lightweight in .308 with a nice Leupold scope
Good weapons that are user friendly and ammo is readily available.
A machete.
Some kind of medevial weapon. I have a broom stick with 8 inch wood screws driven through the end.
Ping for later read.
Of course everyone has their preferences and they are all great.
Myself I’m trying to economize on the types of ammo I will need to stock so I was thinking:
.22LR - rifle and handgun
.45 - handgun and rifle
12 gauge shotgun with both rifled and unrifled barrels for slug and shot
Optional:
.410 shotgun and Taurus Judge in .410/.45
Never underestimate the 22lr. Read about the battle of Grozny in the 90’s. Chechen snipers raised bloody hell with Russian troops forcing them out using 22lr at close range and head shots. A bloody urban slugfest.
Forced the Russians back who then resorted to their tried and true prepping with heavy artillery, air strikes and tanks against guys who had initially had .22’s and now had up gunned to heavier Russian ordinance lifted from the dead enemy.
A roll of pre-1964 Quarters in the toe of a long sock is valuable to Preppers in two ways - silver content and sock’em content! ;)
Don’t forget a sling shot.Silent but deadly on varmints and can crack a skull too. Plus you’ll never run out of ammo.
Thanks. Bkmk. BTTT.
I’m surprised no one mentioned one of the most important for the extended long term. A flintlock black powder rifle or a cap lock with lots of lead and a mold. Lots of caps if it is a cap lock and powder can be homemade if need be in the long run. In the long run you will be back to basics or without completely.
A thinking prepper is going to have a modern pump air rifle because you’ll never run out of rocks/ammo to shoot for either self-defense or wild game. These can also be purchased pre-crisis without arousing the tracking/ire of Big Brother.
Moreover, the closer to a city that you get, the more valuable stealth defense items become such as soft body armor panels.
Likewise, in many cases it may be that your best defense is simply to remain locked up out of sight while others outside take each other out. For this option you need food/water already stored. Also, your local climate may dictate that you need solar power or heat/fans.
A pistol and long gun that share the same ammo also makes sense, e.g. 22LR.
On the wild side, you can buy 3 watt infrared lasers now that can blind any opponents even in large numbers. Some people are home-building 10 watt lasers. Remember to wear your own eye-protection, especially if you begin to see newly blinded survivors roaming around you.
Speaking of which, FLIR has gone up in quality and down in price. Useful at night.