Posted on 05/01/2026 6:24:57 AM PDT by Diana in Wisconsin
The MONTHLY Victory Garden Thread is a gathering of folks that love soil, seeds and plants of all kinds. From complete newbies that are looking to start that first potted plant, to gardeners with some acreage, to Master Gardener level and beyond, we would love to hear from you.
If you have specific question about a plant/problem you are having, please remember to state the Growing Zone where you are located.
This thread is a non-political respite. No matter what, you won’t be flamed, and the only dumb question is the one that isn’t asked.
It is impossible to hijack the Victory Garden Thread. Planting, Harvest to Table Recipes, Preserving, Good Living - there is no telling where it will go - and that is part of the fun and interest. Jump in and join us! Send a Private Message to Diana in Wisconsin if you'd like to be added to/removed from our New & Improved Ping List.
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It takes two SPDT relays to run a DC motor as reversible. The three boxes are six relay/fuse boxes but one relay is a SPST oddball so to keep things neat, I'll use two pair of the SPDT per box for my 6 reversible linear actuators. One box can be the SW side, one can be the NE side and one can be the two end gables. I'll have a SPDT relay spot left in each box but they can be used as SPST so I can use one for the pump. That'll leave me two SPDT/SPST relays for whatever. Relays for the oddball SPST relay spot are hard to find and china stuff only. Was Toyota OEM/specific at some point as near as I can tell.
Ordered the 10' step ladder Fri night. It'll be here next Wednesday.
I have some leftover arched pipe that wasn't quite worthy of being tunnel frame. One end of one piece was rusted through. I propped a piece up against the tunnel to see if an arched roof will work for the tunnel shed which will now be off to one side and overlap the end of the tunnel by 4 foot. It will work and look cool. I can use that pipe too since that rusted pipe end would be an overhang.
Noted and thanks on that - I should check to see if our Wally World has any now. I'd like to try them out. I never see shishito pepper seeds or plants at Menards, Lowes, Home Depot, Rural King, or Tractor Supply.
Also, a question about starting seeds:
Once again this Spring, I have noticed that sometimes when I try to start seeds indoors in new starter soil, potting soil, or garden soil, my results are poor, even though soil temperature, moistness, etc., all seem to be good / correct. But, what I've noticed is that if I go back and seed the very same starter pots with the same only lightly disturbed soil in them, with more of the same seeds from the very same seed packet, holding all the environmental conditions the same, so far as I can tell, "round two" is usually very successful. And, on occasion when I've marked round 1 seed positions at the start, and skipped them in round 2, one or two of those round 1 seeds will pop up a seedling with the round 2 seeds, often on the same day.
This has me wondering if the starting soil medium (media) needs some exposure or to break down / decompose a little to be the most germination friendly?
I'd also note that a lot of the bagged soil / media are not peat based / enhanced any more.
Note that I've not tried (and maybe should try) starting anything from seed REALLY early, say, January, as pretty much all my plant space indoors is taken up by plants I brought in. I suppose I could work up a small experiment next winter, but, less data is... less conclusive...
Thoughts?
To clarify:
“pretty much all my plant starting space indoors during the “dead” of winter” is taken up by plants I brought in.”
As things warm up in March, some more hardy plants like the lemongrass can go “out” and be covered well on freezing or frosty nights, or even go in the garage (and the car left out) a few nights if need be. That frees up the initial seed starting space.
I don’t ever see shishito seeds at the stores, but I faithfully saved my seeds from the Bonnie Plant peppers last summer. Overwintered them in our garage. When it came time to plant them, I soaked them overnight in tepid water. I have no idea if that helped or not. Out of hundreds of seeds, I planted 21 seeds and have 7 seedlings growing, most have six leaflets or more now, just a couple of inches high. They been under grow lights and on a heat mat. A week or so ago, I started taking them outside to toughen up a little, but it’s been way too cold the last couple of days to leave them out there.
Others can help you more. I’m still very much a novice grower.
Noted and thanks.
If Bonnies ever sent any shishito pepper plants to anybody but Walmart, I might actually catch them on sale. Amazon has the seeds, but they are pricey.
Supposedly farmers markets have these (the fruits) more often than in the past. That might be a possibility too - just save some seeds as you did. I’ve had pretty good luck planting those super-hot Thai peppers from saved seeds.
Seemingly oddly, some of the best germination plants I’ve tried to grow from seed were Roma tomato plants: They were in “Valley Green” seed packets that, as I recall, Menards had on sale for 10 cents per pack. The plants produced well too, until blight got them, late last summer.
I’m no expert tho’ — I have way more questions than questions answered!!
What a day. I was up early & started cooking. I should have done some prep work the night before, but I was too tired & after getting a face full of grass while mowing in the wind Thursday, my allergies were acting up.
Anyway, self-inflicted stress! I got everything done & heating in crockpots. Mom did the dishes for me while I cleaned myself up & got some vacuuming done upstairs. I was in the recliner, feet up for about 30 minutes before company arrived. The dinner turned out great - will make it for company again.
It has turned pretty “brisk” today and should get down to 32° for an hour, maybe two. There should be a slight wind, so that should hold off any frost. No more freezes, please! The bushes & trees that lost baby leaves in the last freeze are trying to get new leaves growing & a second ‘kill’ would be tough.
If I ever move to the country I might try this!
Bonus video of a Korean Gardener who grew carrots on his patio in discarded Plastic Bags. You work with what you have! Kudos to him!
How to grow carrots in Plastic bags...Korean Gardener
I believe he is using a Shin Kuroda carrot which is fairly heat tolerant and a stubby like Chantaray.

Botanical Interests....Shin Kuroda Carrot Seeds
"Late planting your garden? 'Shin Kuroda' is quite heat resistant, so don't hesitate to sow in late spring, and even into the summer (when you might be doubtful about sowing carrots). Shin means "new" in Japanese, which alludes to its improved, tapered, 5"-long roots with wide shoulders, that grow through heavy soils with ease. Simply unsurpassed for flavor—one of the sweetest carrots you will eat!"
More information on this carrot from Northwest Meadows Conservationscape:
"The Hon-Kuroda is one of the original foundational carrots to emerge from Nagasaki prefecture’s acclaimed Kuroda Gosun Breeding Society in the 1930s.
Centered around the Kuromaru-cho neighborhood of Omura City, a group of farmer-vegetable breeders conducted continuous crossing efforts between different carrot varieties to arrive at this superior type – a sweet, orange-red carrot, with very little tapering, setting a new global standard for what a carrot could be.
Extremely high in beta carotene, the Hon-Kuroda is extraordinarily adaptable to different soil types. It is very heat tolerant, has vigorous growth, and is excellent for continuous planting. (Sow an additional row every two weeks from May to August for continuous season-long harvests). If you have room in the garden for one carrot, this should be it."
I have no roses anymore either. They have a lot of problems with fungus seem to die quickly. I give her Lilacs which she appreciates.
I try perennials and if they die in year one they do not belong in my yard or Kansas and I just move along to something else. (Things like peonies that last 100 years would be a good example! :)
I hear you on autocorrect.
Thanks for the info about the ground cover, too.
I follow MIGardener and he had a video about growing mushrooms.
Turn Logs into Mushroom Growing MACHINES For YEARS With This Method
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtGwAI2L8-A
North Spore is based in Portland Maine.
https://northspore.com/
More on growing mushrooms....
Down near the bottom of the article, is a video on how to inoculate the logs.
Best Mushrooms to Grow on Oak Logs
https://northspore.com/blogs/the-black-trumpet/best-mushrooms-to-grow-on-oak-logs
I’ve had excellent results starting seeds in those Jiffy Plugs - the ones that are condensed and expand with water? The local/knock-off brand at Menard’s is ‘McKenzie.’ Tomatoes & Peppers, Winter Squash, Cuke and Zukes all work well in those.
However, spinach and lettuces don’t like them, so I start those in a flat of Miracle Grow Potting Mix in the greenhouse and they take off like a rocket. When I want to plant, I just take out a ‘chunk’ and pop it in the ground or in a planter.
I start Zinnia and Marigold in 4” recycled pots with the Miracle Grow soil, too. Same results as the spinach and lettuces.
You’ve got to try a few methods until you find what works for you, I guess. ;)
Where You Put Your Hummingbird Feeder Can Keep Birds Away—Here’s the Right Spot
If your hummingbird feeder isn’t getting much attention, the issue usually isn’t the nectar; it’s where you put it. Hanging your hummingbird feeder in the wrong spot can keep birds away or, in the worst-case scenario, do them harm.
Hummingbirds rely on sight to find food, prefer safe, sheltered areas, and are surprisingly particular about spacing. A feeder that’s too exposed, too hidden, or the wrong distance from a window can make your yard far less inviting than you think.
The good news? A few simple placement tweaks can bring dramatically more hummingbirds to your yard—sometimes within days.
Keep Feeders Separated
While you’ll occasionally see hummingbirds feeding at the same time, these birds are quite territorial. So if you notice frequent visits from more than one bird, you may want to spring for a second feeder.
“If there is a perch nearby, there’s a chance you might get one individual guarding it against other hummingbirds,” explains Chris Clark, Ph.D., an associate professor in the department of evolution, ecology, and organismal biology at the University of California. “If that happens, you can hang a second feeder somewhere that is not in line of sight from the first one, which will prevent one bird from guarding both.”
Follow the Insects
According to Clark, hummingbirds drink nectar for calories, but their main diet consists of insects, so think about where the bugs are when considering placement for your hummingbird feeder. “Hummingbirds love compost piles, which typically have lots of tiny insects, as well as areas next to streams, which also tend to harbor lots of insects.”
Liz Tidwell, a wildlife specialist with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, adds that native plants can also go a long way toward increasing the insect population in your yard and creating an all-you-can-eat buffet for hummingbirds. “Insects will use the native plants for food and a place to lay their eggs.”
Be Sure There Are Perches Nearby
t may be tempting to locate your hummingbird feeder in the middle of the lawn, but all that wide open space can actually deter them from stopping by.
“The best place for a hummingbird feeder is near hedges, trees, or shrubs, rather than out in the open,” says Anusha Shankar, an integrative biologist and physiological ecologist who researches hummingbirds. “They like being able to quickly fly into vegetation, where they can watch before coming into the feeder, or sometimes after feeding.”
Add a Water Source
“Water is another great way to attract hummingbirds to your yard, especially during years of drought,” says Tidwell.
“Standing water is okay for hummingbirds, but they actually prefer moving water—adding a mister, dripper, or bubbling water fountain is a great option for hummingbirds. The biggest thing is to make sure that the water is shallow, because hummingbirds are not strong swimmers,” says Tidwell.
Get Out the Tape Measure
“Ideally, hummingbird feeders should be hung 20 feet from any house structure and a minimum of 4 feet off the ground,” says Tidwell. “This will decrease the number of window collisions and give the hummingbirds plenty of room to safely maneuver.”
What if you don’t have that space? Then, counterintuitively, the closer to a window, the better: 3 feet or less. Birds are less likely to be flying at high speeds at that distance from a feeder, according to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s All About Birds.
As for the recommended height, “Suspending feeders 4 feet off the ground will help to keep cats and other terrestrial predators from being able to easily grab hummingbirds while feeding,” says Tidwell. To avoid bees, she suggests avoiding feeders or nearby plants that boast white or yellow flowers, which are known to be attractive to bees.
More of what NOT to do at the link:

I’ve grown mushrooms from kits. I used to have an unheated basement that stayed at 55 degrees all year round and they loved it. :)
A BIL is a Mushroom NUT and he specifically held on to some inherited land just so he could see how many mushroom species he could grow. He’s been pretty successful and takes Beau on a ‘Mushroom Hunt’ once in a while.
Speaking of frost, sho’ ‘nuff, we got a light frost in exposed spots. So, I’m glad I didn’t take the more sensitive plants outside, and, I covered quite a lot outside last night too.
NWS had bumped UP the forecast a degree (F), late yesterday, and then actually recorded two hours at 3 deg. BELOW their forecast, early this morning. Typically, we are slightly cooler than they are, on chilly nights.
It was a busy (too busy) night. A raccoon has been about, and has learned to push off the trash can lid on the metal trash can I store chicken feed in. I’d almost convinced myself I was just forgetting to put the lid back on, or somehow wind was lifting it off.
Nope! I’d made sure the lid was on, last evening, and positioned a few pieces of hard hickory firewood around the can, so that if the lid “fell off”, there was a good chance it’s make a loud “clonk” to wake me up. Sho’ ‘nuff, a bit after 11 pm I woke up to a loud clonk, went out there, discovered the lid off, and found some grain & layer pellets scattered about. No critter could be seen, so I put the lid back on and retreated indoors where it was warmer.
A couple hours later, rinse and repeat, except this time I caught a glimpse of the ‘coon as it scurried off.
Then about 3 a.m., I heard the chickens squawking, and ran out to see just about the biggest opossum I’ve ever seen trotting off. I had my pellet pistol with me by now, but couldn’t get a clean shot before he / she disappeared into brush. Dang! That’s no good! That especially when we have one hen who doesn’t go back to either henhouse most nights. Where she roosts I’ve not been able to find. She’s a Black Maran and VERY elusive, but, still...
Then about 4:40 a.m., ANOTHER clonk from the trash can lid! By the time I blearily got shoes on (slip ons at that!), grabbed the pellet pistol and got out there, a pair of eyes briefly glowed back at me from the edge of the woods, then disappeared.
I guess I’ll move the live trap near to the feed (trash) can, and put a couple “dog safe traps” out by the chicken house(s).
There is a sturdier (than the hen’s runs / houses) “roosting cage/coop” between them. (An intruder-varmint would have to get through chain link fence and metal roofing to get in it.) It’s “open” air, but it’ll be warm enough the next several nights that the hens can join the “spare” rooster. I just need to put up a 2nd “roosting bar” — ie., a fairly walnut or hickory branch, so the birdies all have enough room to roost. Add maybe 1 more nest box. The “cage” itself is ~ and nearly 6’ tall, so, they’ll have plenty of room in there.
The rooster of course is deliriously happy at this turn of events. ;-)
I was gonna put some hens back in with him anyway —I was just putting off putting up another roosting bar, in lieu of all my other projects(!), and didn’t want to put in only 4-5 or so hens, as that few tend to get beat up by a viril / active roo’.
In a day or two, the chickens should be getting a protein boost of roasted ‘possum. :-)
If when I trap the raccoon, I’ll prolly take him over to the river & release him / her.

How does one tell when a Rooster is ‘deliriously happy?’ I’d like to see that, LOL!
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