Posted on 02/24/2022 1:53:15 PM PST by nickcarraway
Chefs and home cooks alike are renewing their passion for humanity’s oldest culinary pursuit.
Danny Childs is offering pawpaws to a surprised couple in a park on an early afternoon in suburban New Jersey. "They're like a mix between a banana and a mango," he explains. "You just rip the skin open and eat the flesh." He demonstrates how by slurping the tender insides and handing each person one of the peanut-shaped fruits from his basket. They take them, dubious at first, their hesitancy quickly melting away as they take a taste, emboldened by his enthusiasm.
Childs is used to this particular type of skepticism. At the restaurant where he works, he coaxes uncertain guests to open their minds and palates as they sample drinks largely made from unexpected ingredients that go beyond the whiskey sours and tequila sodas that dominate nearby menus. The 60 or so pounds of pawpaws that he's gathered today will be processed and turned into a vinegar-based shrub, forming the base ingredient for his signature Pawpaw Pisco Sour. He'll serve it all year long at The Farm and Fisherman Tavern, an unassuming restaurant in suburban New Jersey, where Childs runs one of the most distinctive, creative bar programs in the region, inspired by foraged ingredients. (He's also at work on a book, Slow Drinks, that will be published in fall 2023.)
Childs, whose interest in foraging began while he was studying ethnobotany in college, is part of a recent return to the practice. Today's foraging movement is driven in part by high-end restaurants like Noma and Eleven Madison Park, where diners pay hundreds of dollars to sample rare ingredients plucked from the local landscape, and increasingly — especially since the pandemic — by home cooks who are getting in on the action and driving a surge of interest in foraging through social media.
Columbus, Ohio, forager Alexis Nikole Nelson
There's no better example of the home cook–turned–forager than Alexis Nikole Nelson, a TikTok star with more than 3 million followers. Her platform (@blackforager on Instagram) quickly grew into a community of people obsessed with her high-energy, contagiously excited explorations of the food growing all around her in suburban Columbus, Ohio. On her profile, you'll find videos of her gathering and cracking hazelnuts to make knock-off Nutella, marinating hen-of-the-woods mushrooms to create mushroom "bacon," and turning wild onions into a free-range onion dip.
"When I started posting about foraging at the beginning of the pandemic, people just started pouring into my account," she says. "I was surprised because in the past, this was a hobby that was better at pushing people away than bringing them closer — being the kid eating food off the ground didn't exactly make me cool. But here we are."
Nelson first learned about foraging from her parents, who she says were the true revolutionaries as people of color out in nature in the 1960s. They instilled in her a love of plants and cooking, which made her interest in foraging a natural next step. Nelson says it makes sense that the pandemic created such a fervor around foraging.
"I think it gave everyone a sense of 'I need to be able to take care of myself,'" she says. "And at the same time, everyone realized they needed to get a hobby that was outside."
But this impulse to get outside wasn't just a response to the pandemic — it's evolutionary.
Twila Cassadore, a member of the San Carlos Apache Tribe,
"As humans, we're inherently biophilic, so we feel better when we're in nature," explains Gina Rae La Cerva, author of Feasting Wild: In Search of the Last Untamed Food. "For most of human history, foraging was one of the main ways humans accessed food. We've evolved to want to do it."
In her book, La Cerva explores the renewed interest that many Western cultures have seen in foraging over the past two decades or so, offering a deeply researched and surprising exploration of the role of wild food throughout history and across the world. La Cerva also points to the monoculture system of agriculture that has largely taken over as an explanation for our renewed interest in foraging.
"When we go to the grocery store, we think we see a lot of variety because there are so many different options on the shelves," she explains. "But we rely primarily on 30 plant species, and 60% of our diets are made up of rice, wheat, potatoes, and corn. Compare this to the fact that throughout history, humans have used 30,000 different plants for food or medicine."
Among those trying to document and reintegrate foraging traditions is Twila Cassadore, an educator and member of the San Carlos Apache Tribe who focuses on foraging in native communities. Through her work with the Traditional Western Apache Diet Project, Cassadore has interviewed over a hundred tribal elders, recording their knowledge of edible plants and animals across the Southwest so that it can be passed down.
"When I first started, I was like, 'Why are we not teaching this more to the community?'" Cassadore says. "In the mid-'70s and '80s, society labeled foraging as something that you only do when you're poor, so I think among the tribal community, there's a sense that we don't have to do it anymore. It's that Western colonized way of thinking that has transformed Indigenous ways of life."
Cassadore approaches foraging with just as much focus on stewardship as on consumption and encourages all foragers to think about it as a way to build a relationship with a place. "I don't think it's a trend," she says. "I think it's a dormant instinct that is waking up, and that's beautiful to see."
Foraged wild ingredients are smoked to build flavor for Danny Childs’ winter amaro
Find Your Forager
Experts share their favorite foraging resources .
Read
Alexis Nikole Nelson (@blackforager on Instagram) recommends The Forager's Harvest: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plants by Samuel Thayer as a great primer on foraging in the U.S. La Cerva's book, Feasting Wild: In Search of the Last Untamed Food, is not a foraging guide but explores the practice throughout history. Read it for a roving international adventure that goes from Noma's kitchen in Copenhagen to the Congo.
Join
Local foraging-focused Facebook groups are an excellent way to get dialed into what's growing in your area in real time, says Nelson. Cassadore collaborates with the I-Collective, a community of Indigenous chefs, activists, and knowledge-keepers who are working to promote conversations about Indigenous food sovereignty. Subscribe to A Gathering Basket, their digital cookbook series, for a multi-media exploration of Indigenous foods, traditions, and narratives.
Watch
Watch Gather, a documentary about native foodways that features Twila Cassadore and native communities working to reclaim food sovereignty.
My two youngest kids (12 and 10) are going to Wilderness Survival Day Camp in May.
City dwellers could feast on squab if they dare do so. You just need a park bench, some bread and an umbrella to stun that pigeon before you twist its neck. Oh, so yummy. lol
Don’t forget the urban rabbit!
Or go to a golf course and tackle a goose. A lot more meat on one of those. I've eaten both goose and pigeon, and there's a LONG list of foods I'd rather have than either of them.
Don't forget limes and lemons.
As long as the fruit is on the street and not damaged, it's ready to eat.
There’s always a few fries left on plates at the diner, in the room service trays in hotel hallways, etc.
Like a lot of different fruits - they just can’t be commercialized.
Some pears near my grandmother’s house were like this - if you were there on the right week... heaven.
Most of the oranges along the streets, at least in Tucson, are sour oranges. They’re good for marmalade, but that’s about it.
LOL! Good one...
“Had a few paw paw trees here in Ohio. They are definitely banana tasting. Problem is they are like a slimy smooshed banana full of big seeds. They also have to be perfectly ripe and that lasts about 2 days.”
We were going to try and grow Paw Paws. But a good friend who lives in Paw Paw country said it isn’t worth it. The main reason was flies, it takes lots of flies to pollinate them. And you have to hang bags of nasty stuff to bring the flies. Between that and the shelf life he said it just isn’t worth the trouble.
Foraging is for those who know what they are doing.
Read the book wicked plants.
‘Shades of Euell Gibbons.’
stalking the wild asparugus...
I thought pawpaws were out of season in February, but I guess it could depend on your location.
Ours grew along a creek far from the house so I don’t know about the flies. I have heard of making jelly of them but the sliminess factor is very off putting. They also are more seed than fruit.
Prepper ping.
Foraging is great, but it’s also very labor, land, and knowledge-intensive.
Even most of the “foraging experts” would probably starve to death if they had to live off the land.
Cool post. Even here in the desert we have pretty good foraging. Mesquite beans, Cat’s Claw Mesquite, Juniper, Pinion Pine, Yucca fruit and roots, Palo Verde beans, Prickly Pear cactus Leaves and fruit, Manzanita berries, Juniper Berries, And tons of wild weeds and greens and grains like Mustard and such.
Lucky dogs, you two are!
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