I wish that I could help you, if my husband were on FR he would explain the whole deal with you until you passed out from asphyxiation but I know nothing. Good luck.
A die does the same for messed up treads on a bolt.
I suppose you could make your own, but it is labor intensive. Easier all around to replace what you can and repair what you can't.
Good for going Galt.
Threaded rod and nuts and bolts are mass produced...The only blanks I know of are rod stock and square stock that would need to be cut and shaped...Tap and die sets are usually for repair (If possible) ie..drill hole a little bigger and tap larger thread. Or clean up existing internal threads. Die to chase threads on studs and bolts to try to clean up...It`s what I do with mine...Do you have a Harbor freight Tools in your area?...Decent tools for cheap price.
Absolutely nothing from China, no matter how big of a bargain it appears. Even Sears taps and dies are at least marginal, and of one accomplishment I have in life was a city college course in Machine shop.
Its an art is all I can say, you need to understand the different types of pitch, threads in different types of steel and grades and the right lubricants.
And don’t forget the right drill bits, its not as easy as just drilling any sized hole. I cannot give you an exact brand name, I usually buy mine from a local industrial tool supply, a good 3/8ths USS taper tap is near $10, and then you have bottom taps...
Possibly the Sears Crafstmen sets are adequate, for the average use, myself I would go a bit better. Buy American.
I would not do this. First of all, rod stock is expensive and you’ll waste a certain amount. Second, it is not especially high quality steel. It’s just ordinary mild steel, not very high strength. It is by no means suitable for a headbolt, for example. You’ll just snap it. If you buy bolts, you can buy grade 3, 6, 8 bolts and know you are getting superior strength things. Third, you’ll alwsy have the issue of how “threadable” the end is, which you’d presumsably hack-saw off. Fourthly, there isn’t a great way to simulate the bolt head other than tightening two nuts together with a lockwasher between them, so now your bolt heads are bigger, and if the nuts are “out-of-sync” which they are likley to be, getting a wrench on the bolt in a tight spot isn’t that great a proposition.
With taps, make sure you use the correct sized drill, and do not use that drill for miscellaneous other stuff.
One thing I like to do when tapping holes in sheet metal is to mount the tap in a drill press and use the drill press (with power off) as an item that guides the tap into the hole at good right angles. Put the tap in the chuck and turn it by hand.
Get good quality stuff if you do this. Forget Chinese.
Sorry about my poor trying skills. I just woke up.
If you want to do this to save money, you won’t. When you kneed a bolt or nut, just by a box of them. Next thing you know you will have a stock of the sizes you will need, and you will get them at a reasonable price.
I’m an engineer, not a tool and die guy. However, even if you had rod stock, and dies to cut threads on them, how do you propose adding a head to make a bolt?
And then, how do you plan on hardening that bolt?
I’m all for being able to DIY in case of SHTF, but in this case I think I’d rather stockpile bolts (remembering that long ones can be cut shorter), nuts, washers and lock washers.
Except for most wood projects and some marine applications I always buy Grade 8 fasteners. Do I use lock washers, most of the time no, though you can get hardened split lock washers I prefer to use grade 8 steel jam nuts, not the nylon ones.
Washers have their grades as well, then you have SAE and USS washers, I mostly use SAE washers, you don’t use grade 5 washers under grade 8 SAE bolts, you will just smash the softer washer and then you get a loose fastener.
Now as far as making bolts I actually do make my own a lot but its usually from all thread rod or marine fasteners such as brass or stainless. I can thread grade 8 bolts but it usually wears out the die after the first time.
I too recommend just stockpiling fasteners. Find a local industrial supply warehouse and get a large bin organizer.
Nuts and bolts? Just buy a variety and pay attention to what is stamped on the head. Those hash marks indicate strength.
We use them and they can be turned by hand....if you are berry stwong and got time.
I ain’t got neither, well at least not the patience.
You need a good impact drill. One the works off a compressor is best but the electric one works as well.
We had to custom a truss system for a Hot Tub job and made the screws ourselves. I forget why but, I think it was the length of the screw and we couldn’t find it.
So we built making them into the job and the customer was happy.
So are we as we know that thing won’t be coming apart even if it rolled down hill.
My 2cents.
Oops - wrong thread. I thought it said Double Tap and Die.
I have a friend who has used a Jet lathe and a small mill along with a few sheet metal tools and rivet tools to build a large range of parts. After getting the tools it becomes a matter of storing a proper balance of steel shapes, types, and sizes. Along with the proper lubes, surfacing and maintenance supplies.
I remember working with tap and die sets in shop class while in high school. I thought it was so cool to make your own threads in pieces of metal. Arc Welding was fun too.
Do they allow kids to do that stuff in school anymore?
The bolts and screws you find at Walmart are nowhere near as strong.
Do a search on SAE standards.
Ref: Tap and die? Experiences? Recommendations? Enlightenment?
First off you get what you pay for, Chinese cheap not good, if your lucky; maybe two to three times of use for each size.
I have a set of Snap-on (The Gold Standard) Tap & Die, for about 30 Plus year’s. VERY EXPENSIVE, worth every dollar spent. Looking back, at the amount of use as a Body & Fender Man (about 22 - 25 years) Welder - Fabricator 8 plus years, they have earned their KEEP.
When tapping a new hole lets say a size of 5/16 in. You’ll need to look at a chart (Available lot’s of place’s) to see what size drill bit to use. From experience, do not use the recommended size right off, do start maybe with one to three size(s) smaller, and finish with the size recommended.
Question: Why would I want to do all that extra work?
Answer: So you don’t wind up with a triangle Hole. But, but; the drill bit’s are round, how in the world do you wind up with a Triangle hole.
What I’m talking about, is simple to prove, just drill a 5/16” in., hole and look at it, if your honest with yourself, and your eye’s, you’ll see it. P.S. Did I also mention that I did work for about 5-year’s for a VERY Large Airplane Manufacturer (Mid 80’s - Early 90’s) in the Pacific Northwest, Hint: Seattle, Everett. On Items that call for close tolerance(s) minimum 3 size(s) under, until reaching finial size needed.
Also when Drilling Metal(s) approximately 650 rpm to maybe like 1200 rpm recommended, to save your drill bit(s). Use proper CUTTING lubricating oil.
When in the act of Tapping a hole/ Cutting Round Stock (with a Die,) DO NOT KEEP TURNING the Tap or Die!!!! You should only Turn approximately 1/2 to 1 full turn, then back out of the hole approximately 1/2 to 1 full turn, so as to let out the piece’s of metal that have just been cut, to fall out!!!!!!!!!!!! Do use proper CUTTING lubricating oil, don’t go crazy with it. Pint might cost approx., 4-6 Dollar’s, treat as though it cost $30 - $40, you’ll get the idea. More cutting oil, does not equal better performance, when doing Tap and Die by hand.
Don’t follow the above advice, you’ll break a TAP or DIE, MONEY BACK GUARANTEE, Tap and die is a VERY SLOW PROCESS, when done by hand.
Very hard, TIME CONSUMING, to remove a broken Tap or Die depending on where or how you achieved the dilemma of your choice(s).
Hey; I’m no Rocket Scientist, just a welder (Born in 1953.)
Welder in Ship Yard’s to Fabrication Specialty Shop(s), Body & Fender when I was a youngster, oh and a five year stint for an airplane maker.
Don’t be a Fool when drilling, WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!!!! You only get one set of eye’s, and Ten Fingers. I’m down to 9-3/4. Hint for safety first.
I could write a lot more on the subject (Like Starter {First cut} Tap & Die,) Bottom Tap’s etc., but the above should be useful to those individuals who take pride in their work.
If I were doing this I would start watching the estate sales.
Older mechanics are unfortunately passing away all the time. Their tools are often on the auction block. What they owned they bought many years ago and is suppior to most of what is available today. Auction prices for old tools often go very cheap.
Get taps and dies made out of high speed steel. They will be marked with "HS" on them. If they don't have this marking they are almost certainly made out of high carbon steel, which is not nearly as durable and will dull very quickly.
There are starter taps, "plug" taps, and bottom taps. Difference is the amount of taper on them. If you are only going to have one set, get the plug taps. They are halfway in between. Starter taps are nearly self-aligning. Bottom taps are best used after a plug or starter tap has been used first, to get full depth threads (almost) all the way to the bottom of the hole.
There are two flute, three flute, and four flute taps. Two flute taps are the most resistant to breakage because the center web is slightly thicker, but they are also the most difficult to get started straight unless you have them in a drill press or other fixture. I don't particularly like them. Four flute taps are probably the most common and easiest to use. Three flute are a little more resistant to breakage, especially in the small sizes. Gun taps throw the chip forward. They should not be used except on through holes, holes that go all the way through the material, otherwise you will be picking the chips out of the bottom of the hole.
Drill and tap the hole deeper than the bolt will go in so you will have full threads for the whole length of the bolt engagement. You want the bolt to clamp on the head only, not bind in the threads.
Always be sure the tap is perpendicular to the material (in line with the hole). This is very important. If you start the tap crooked, it will bind up before you get very deep.
Use the proper lubricant for the material, and back the tap out a turn or so frequently to break the chip.
Tap drill charts usually provide for about 75% thread depth. Don't try to go smaller on the hole. You will get almost no increase in thread strength, but it will be much harder to tap the hole. A little too big on the hole is better than too small.
A little chamfer on the hole before tapping is a good idea. Make the chamfer just slightly larger that the nominal (major) diameter of the bolt. The chamfer makes the tap easier to start and keeps the tap from pulling the first thread it cuts up above the surface of the material.
Full resistance to thread stripping is reached when the thread engagement is equal to the major diameter of the bolt. IOW, a half inch bolt should screw in at least a half inch deep. The chamfer doesn't count as thread engagement.
Hope this helps.
rmh47-retired tool and die maker