Weekly Roundup - Living On Nothing Edition [Survival Today

Did you hear about the guy that lives on nothing? No seriously, he lives on zero dollars a day. Meet Daniel Suelo, who lives in a cave outside Moab, Utah. Suelo has no mortgage, no car payment, no debt of any kind. He also has no home, no car, no television, and absolutely no “creature comforts.” But he does have a lot of creatures, as in the mice and bugs that scurry about the cave floor he’s called home for the last three years.

To us, Suelo probably sounds a little extreme. Actually, he probably sounds very extreme. After all, I suspect most of you reading this are doing so under the protection of some sort of man-made shelter, and with some amount of money on your person, and probably a few needs for money, too. And who doesn’t need money unless they have completely unplugged from the grid? Still, it’s an amusing story about a guy who rejects all forms of consumerism as we know it.

How to Brew Your Own Beer and Maybe Save Some Money. A fantastic introduction to home brewing, something I’ve never done myself, but always been interested in trying. (@Generation X Finance)

Contentment: A Great Financial Principle. If I had to name one required emotion for living a frugal lifestyle it would be contentment. Once you are content with your belongings and your lot in life you can ignore forces attempting to separate you from your money. (@Personal Finance by the Book)

Use Energy Star Appliances to Save On Utility Costs. I enjoyed this post because it included actual numbers, and actual total savings, from someone who upgraded to new, energy star appliances. (@The Digerati Life)

Over-Saving for Retirement? Is it possible to “over-save” for retirement? Yes, I think so. At some point I like the idea of putting some money aside in taxable investments outside of retirement funds, to be accessed prior to traditional retirement age. (@The Simple Dollar)

40 Things to Teach My Kids Before They Leave Home. A great list of both practical and philosophical lessons to teach your kids before they reach the age where they know everything. I think that now happens around 13 years-old. (@My Supercharged Life)

Index Fund Investing Overview. If you are looking for a place to invest with high diversification and relatively low fees (for broader index funds with low turnover), index funds are a great place to start. (@Money Smart Life)

5 Reasons To Line Dry Your Laundry. My wife and I may soon be installing a clothesline in our backyard. In many neighborhoods they are frowned upon - one of the reasons I don’t like living in a neighborhood. I digress. One of our neighbors recently put up a clothesline, and we might just follow his lead. (@Simple Mom)

* 4 Quick Tips for Getting Out of a Rut * Young and Cash Rich * Embracing Simple Style * First Trading Experience With OptionsHouse * The Exponential Power of Delayed Consumption * How Much Emergency Fund is Enough? * 50 Questions that Will Free Your Mind * Save Money On Car Insurance

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/self-reliance.html

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Enjoy self-sufficient living even if you don’t have the right soil, space, live in an apartment with a small patio or balcony. Learn all about Growing Vegetables in Containers.

When you have more fruit from the orchard than you know what to do with and you have run out of ideas for canning, jams, jellies, pickles, chutneys and freezing, why don’t you think about Drying your Fruit. This can be done either in your oven or out in the sun with solar drying.

Thought about sprouting your own seeds? See our page Sprouting seeds in 6 easy steps.

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Country Wines for self-sufficient living. See our page on How to Make Wine and wine making instructions, tips and recipes.

And don’t forget your pets! Make Homemade Dog Food and find homemade dog biscuit recipes.
SELF-SUFFICIENT LIVING: BEING FRUGAL

In times of economic uncertainty one needs to be as self-sufficient as one can to be able to save money. Thus for those who are interested in frugal living, this section will also be of interest to you.

Which brings me to my next burning issue. As well are rising fuel costs, how many of you are also shocked and dismayed about your rising electricity bills? Well, you are not alone, but that is small comfort when money is tight. However, you can reduce your electricity bills by as much as 80%, yes, that’s right. And if you are wondering how, you can find the details here. Reduce your electricity bills! For more information on this topic and others related to green living see our section on Living Off-Grid.
MORE SELF-SUFFICIENT LIVING TOPICS IN OUR TRADITIONAL COUNTRY SKILLS SECTION:

How to Make Butter

How to Make Buttermilk

How to Make Cheese

Cheese Making Recipes

Making Yoghurt

Making Soap

Making Lye from wood ash

How to Make Wine

Making Moonshine

Beer Brewing are just a few topics that you will find in the Traditional Skills section.
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SUSTAINABLE LIVING RESOURCES:

If you are looking for material to download on beekeeping, keeping chickens and poultry, building greenhouses or chicken coops, raising guinea fowl, country recipes, herbal remedies or hydroponic gardening, then you will be interested in exploring Self Sufficient Life.

Enjoy Simple Living gets to the heart of simple living. From voluntary simplicity and self sufficient living to home organization, money management tips, and more! Leave the chaos behind and live refreshingly natural.

Finally, if you are looking for more information on how to be self-sufficient, how to make cheese, candles, soap, grow vegetables, learn about organic gardening, livestock, poultry, being frugal, or just homesteading in general, then visit our Country Store. Here you will not only find books and magazines on these subjects, but you will also be able to find kits and supplies for farming, gardening, camping and outdoor living, children’s farming games, clothing, cross stitch and quilting, country decor, and country gourmet food.

Have a look at this video of an amazing family in suburban California who manage to be self-sufficient on one fifth of an acre!

Natural Pesticides: Homemade Pesticides & Insecticides for Natural & Organic Pest Control

Learn how to make your own natural pesticides and insecticides. Find natural and organic pest control recipes that you can make using the contents of your kitchen. Learn to control insects and pest naturally and organically by making some of these homemade pesticides & help save the planet at the same time. However, be aware that in some countries, like the UK it is illegal to make homemade insecticides. So always check with your local council to stay on the right side of the law.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE ALL PURPOSE INSECTICIDE SPRAY

1/2 cup rubbing alcohol

1 quart liquid soap

Mix directly into a spray container. Do not spray in direct sunlight as leaf damage may occur. Spray, then let sit for 20 minutes. Spray plant down with clear water to reduce foliage damage. Spray every 3 days for 2 weeks.

Alcohol sprays is effective on aphids, mealy bugs, scale insects, thrips and whiteflies.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE CHAMOMILE SPRAY

This spray is used to prevent the damping off of seedlings and powdery mildew. Take 1 cup chamomile leaves and place in a non-metal bowl. Add 3 cups of boiling water and allow to steep until cool. Strain. Dilute with equal parts of mixture to water.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE GARLIC SPRAY

This organic pest control is useful against sucking insects and some caterpillars.

90 g chopped garlic cloves

2 T mineral oil or liquid paraffin

15 g of pure soap or soap flakes

500 ml warm water.

Mix garlic and oil together and let is steep for 48 hours. Dissolve grated soap or flakes in warm water and then mix the 2 solutions together and then strain. Use 1 part mixture to 50 parts water. Spray as usual.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE LANTANA SPRAY

In some countries Lantana has been banned as it is seen as a noxious weed. However, this organic spray is effective against aphids.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE MILK SPRAY

This homemade insecticide is effective against the tiny red spider mite.

1/2 cup buttermilk

4 cups flour

20 L water

Mix the buttermilk with the flour and then add the water. Spray over a 2 day period to make sure that the infestation has been successfully been eradicated.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE MUSTARD SPRAY

If you find that your plants have scale this is the organic insecticide for you. Take one 1 ground mustard seeds and add 20 parts of water to the seeds. Place in a sprayer and spray the affected plant.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE NASTURTIUM SPRAY

This natural pest control is effective against woolly aphids Mix 1 cup nasturtium leaves with 1 cup of water. Simmer together on top of stove in an old pot for about 15 minutes. Cool and strain. Dilute with equal parts mixture to water. Spray where needed.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE NICOTINE SPRAY

1 cup liquid dish soap

1 cup antiseptic mouthwash

1 cup chewing tobacco juice (Place 3 fingers of chewing tobacco in an old nylon stocking and soak in a gallon of hot water until mixture turns dark brown.)

Put mixture into a 20 gallon sprayer and fill the rest of the container with warm water. Spray on vegetables every alternate week.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE OIL SPRAY

Oil is great for suffocating the eggs and insects, especially in winter when the eggs are more porous at this time, and the oil more effective as a method of getting rid of a variety of pests. However, use only in winter, or when the temperatures are below 25°C. Any higher and the oil will burn the leaves.

1 kg soap

8 L oil

Combine oil and soap and boil until it dissolves. Dilute with 20 times the volume of water. It doesn’t store well, so should be used immediately. Oil spray is effective against ants, aphids, leafhoppers, squash bugs and whiteflies.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE ONION & CHILI SPRAY

This homemade insecticide and pesticide is very effective against any leaf-eating insects and has a limited effect against most scale and hard-surfaced pests such as shield bugs.

4 bird’s eye chilies, chopped (or as hot as you can find)

4 large onions, chopped

2 bulbs garlic, chopped

2 L soapy water

Combine all the ingredients, including the seeds from the chilies. Cover with the soapy water and allow to steep for 24 hours. Strain. Add water to dilute if required and spray. Can be stored in a sealed container in a dark place for up to 2 weeks.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE PYRETHRUM SPRAY

Pyrethrum is by far the most effective natural insecticide and miticide there is and kills most aphids, cabbage loopers, celery leaf tiers, codling moth, Colarado potato beetles, leafhoppers, Mexican bean beetles, spider mites, stink bugs, several species of thrips, tomato pinworms, and whiteflies, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and midgies.

As soon as insects come into contact with the spray, they will die, attacking the nervous system. Pyrethrum is an African flowering plant from the chrysanthemum family and is deadly to most insects. However, because it is not systemic and is destroyed by UV light, it is not deadly to mammals and can be safely sprayed on vegetables and fruit when picked 12-48 hours after application. Unfortunately, it is also deadly to good bugs as well, so use with care and only spray on heavily infested plants as a last resort.

Spray both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves, because spray must directly contact the insects such as thrips that hide in leaf sheaths and crevices. Spray in cooler temperatures as it is more effective then, evening or late afternoon being ideal. Never use pyrethrin products around waterways and ponds. And for those of you who have dermatitis, asthma and sinus you may have an allergic reaction when using pyrethrum.

Grow your own pyrethrum from seed, which can be bought from your local seedman and use the flowers that are in full bloom. The active ingredient is found in the immature seed. Cut them off early in the morning and hang upside down to dry and leave in a well-ventilated dark place to dry. Light will cause the plant to lose its potency. When dried, grind with a pestle and mortar until you have a fine powder.

Mix 10 gm of pyrethrum powder to 3 litres of water. Let stand for 3 hours in a dark place. Add 1 teaspoon of dish washing liquid as a fixative just before use.

You can also steep your flowers in a jar filled with boiling water, and apply after it has cooled down.

However, the best way is to cover the flowers in a container with brandy, although kerosene and mineral oil will also work but not as well. Leave this mixture overnight keeping it away from any light. Strain the liquid and use 1 part liquid to 6 parts water.

To store your flowers place them in a freezer up to 6 months and use accordingly.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE RHUBARB SPRAY

This is a very effective general spray that is extremely poisonous, however unfortunately it is also poisonous to bees so use with care, and keep out of reach of children.

Boil 1.5 kg rhubarb leaves in 3.5 L of water, straining and bottling. Dissolve 100 g soft soap in 2 L of hot water and add to the leaf mixture when cold.

Use only on ornamental shrubs, and flowers, but NEVER on herbs or vegetables.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE SOAP SPRAY

This is useful against aphids and some caterpillars.

56 g of soap flakes or pure grated soap mixed with 5 L of hot water, which must be cooled before use.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE SUGAR SPRAY

This organic spray control is effective against nematodes. Dissolve 2 kg sugar in a bucket of water. Drench the soil to kill nematodes. Molasses can also be used, but don’t use honey as this may transmit disease back to the bees.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE TOMATO LEAF SPRAY

2 cups of chopped tomato leaves

2 pints of water

1/4 tsp of liquid soap

Soak tomato leaves in water overnight. Strain this mixture then add another pint of water and liquid soap. Spray foliage and soil as needed. This spray is effective against asparagus beetles and flea beetles, ear-worms and maggots.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE WHITE OIL SPRAY

White Oil can be purchased at your local gardening store at great expense. Or, you can make your own at a fraction of the cost using the same simple ingredients!

This is effective against scale. Pour a cup of cooking oil and a few drops of washing-up detergent into a 1 L plastic bottle.

Add 1/2 cup of water and shake well. Pour 250 ml into a 9 L bucket of water and mix.

Spray the mixture over and under infested leaves.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: HOMEMADE WORMWOOD SPRAY

This is effective against fleas, flies, moths, mosquitoes, aphids and snails.

Collect large amount of wormwood leaves and cover with a bucket of boiling water. Steep for 3 hours. Dilute, using 1 part mixture to 4 parts water. Allow to cool before using.
NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: GETTING RID OF FLEAS

Add a little sulphur to the dog’s drinking water. Another method is to put 1/2 cup vinegar into the final rinsing water of your dog’s bath water. Another is to boil a large quantity of mint leaves in 2 L of water. Strain and cool. After washing and rinsing the dog, pour the cooled mint solution over the dog and allow him to dry off naturally. Any fleas that remain will leave immediately.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: GETTING RID OF CANE TOADS

For those of you who live in Australia, and particularly Queensland, you are probably plagued with cane toads. Using them as golf balls in the dark is not very humane, although a common practice for the desperate! However, if you fill up a sprayer with pure Dettol and spray the cane toads directly, they will die almost immediately.

Large numbers can be rounded up and placed in a bucket and then doused with Dettol. Not strictly organic but it does work! Wear gloves and protective eye-glasses so you are not affected by their poison yourself.

NATURAL PESTICIDES & INSECTICIDES: GETTING RID OF FRUIT FLIES

The best way to do this is to set up fruit fly traps in the orchard. These can be made out of jam jars, or old ice cream containers and then strung up in the tree boughs.

Prepare 300g pulped oranges, 15 g ammonium carbonate (purchase from the chemist), and add 600 ml water. Mix and fill jars or buckets with the bait.

Natural pest control is always better than toxic insecticides and pesticides as they usually only target the pest at hand, and are not harmful to bees and other useful insects.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/natural-pesticides.html

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/homemade-dog-food.html

Homemade Dog Food and Dog Biscuit Recipes

Our homemade dog food recipes and dog biscuit recipes are quick and easy to prepare. They are wholesome, you’ll save money, and you know exactly what it is that your dog is eating.

A word of advice, never feed your dog a high salt-food diet as this will affect his kidneys, and never feed your dog onions. Some dogs get anaemic as a result. Garlic can also be toxic in some cases. And most of us are aware by now that feeding dogs chocolate can also be fatal in some instances.

For a balanced diet your dog should be gettinga diet that consists of 40% meat, 30% vegetables and 30% starch.

HOMEMADE DOG FOOD - Recipe 1

1 cup brown rice, cooked

1 kg chopped pumpkin, cooked

1 kg lean & boneless cooked chicken, beef or lamb (boiled)

1/2 cup mixed vegetables, cooked

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon yeast extract such as Marmite, Oxo, Vegemite etc. (optional)

Mash the cooked pumpkin and add to the rice, along with the cooked vegetables. Dice the meat and add to the rice mixture. Add a teaspoon of meat extract if used. Make sure that it is not too hot for your dog when you serve it, and only serve what your dog will eat. Store the rest in the fridge for the second day.

HOMEMADE DOG FOOD - Recipe 2

1 large whole baked potato with skin on

1/2 cup mixed vegetables, cooked

1/2 kg lean, cooked meat (anything except pork)

1/2 kg pumpkin (pumpkin bulks up the food without adding to your dog’s weight)

Bake the potato and dice, leaving on the skins. Add the cooked mixed vegetables and the diced meat. Make sure that there are no bones in your dinner. Cooked bones are more likely to splinter and chicken bones are deadly to big dogs. All bones should be given raw.

Mash the pumpkin if used and add to the mixture. Serve to your dog.

DOG BISCUIT RECIPES: 1

2 1/2 cups wholemeal flour

1/2 cup wheatgerm

1/2 cup brown rice bran

1/2 cup canola or olive oil

1 dessertspoon crushed garlic

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon yeast extract
(optional)

Mix in a large bowl, stir with a wooden spoon and add a little water if mixture is too dry. Roll onto a cutting board and cut or shape into cookies. Bake in a hot oven (200°C) for 30-45 minutes (or until hard.) Cool and store in air-tight containers.

DOG BISCUIT RECIPES 2

3 1/2 cups wholemeal flour

1 cup white flour

125 g minced steak

1 teaspoon Marmite, or other similar yeast extract
(optional)

Place both flours in a basin and rub in mince. Mix to a stiff dough with water, roll out and put on oven tray. Cut into squares and bake in a slow oven. Add 1 tablespoon of cod liver oil if biscuits are for a puppy.

DOG BISCUIT RECIPES 3

1 tablespoon of tallow

2 cups flour (either barley, wheat, rye, spelt etc.)

1/2 cup rice pollard

1/2 cup cracked wheat or porridge oats

1/2 cup blood and bone

2 teaspoons kelp

2 teaspoons yeast powder

Rub the tallow into the fry ingredients and add enough water to make a firm dough - about 1 cup. Press and roll onto baking trays. Score into small bite sized pieces. Bake well until hard in an oven set at about 180°C. Cool and store in air-tight containers.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/helpful-hints.html

Household Cleaning Tips, Homemade Cleaning Products, Stain Removal Tips etc.

Household cleaning tips that work. Advice for removing stains, what to do with leftovers, how to make your own homemade cleaning products and general household tips for your home. For a more in depth look at vinegar as a household cleaning product see our page entitled Cleaning with Vinegar.

Helpful household tips in the Kitchen and the House will provide shortcuts, give you new ideas and helpful tips in general. Here you will learn to prevent eggs from cracking when boiling them, how to dry wet shoes, how to prevent fishy smells when cooking fish. There are also stain removal tips for removing various stains from clothes and carpets. There are many more handy tips here for you to read and adopt. Happy hunting!

HOUSEHOLD CLEANING TIPS FOR THE FREEZER

* To keep root ginger fresh, place in the freezer and grate off sufficient use at a time.

* Whip cream before freezing - it then stays whipped and can be used when required. Cut the amount off that you want to used and allow to thaw at room temperature.

* Salt in excess can prevent the proper freezing of foods.

* Cooked fish is not recommended for freezing unless it is incorporated in fish cakes, fish pies, fish casseroles etc.

* The whites of hard-boiled eggs can become rubbery when frozen.

* Frozen casseroles, soups and stews containing garlic will develop an odd flavour. Rather add the garlic to these dishes after reheating.

* Salad vegetables such as cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, whole onions, celery and radishes loose their crispness when frozen and cannot be used in salads. However, frozen tomatoes, onion and celery can be used for cooking purposes.

* Avocadosdo not freeze well, although when thawed are fine mashed with lemon juice and used in dips.

* Salted cheese that has been frozen cannot be used on a cheese platter as it will crumble. However, it is fine to use for sauces and cooking.

* Do not freeze stuffed poultry due to the slow freezing of the stuffing, harmful bacteria may be present and will cause illness when the bird is thawed and eaten later.

* Sauces thickened with flour thin on thawing. Therefore use cornflour or rice flour to avoid this.

* Custards, cream fillings and milk puddings tend to curdle and separate if frozen. Caramel creams do not freeze and frozen gelatin dishes will separate on thawing.

* Sour cream separates when frozen on its own. However, it freezes well when combined with other ingredients.

* Bananas will turn brown when frozen, but if they are mashed and lemon juice is added they can be used in baking.

* Never put hot foods directly in a freezer. Always wait for them to cool first.

* Household cleaning tips for your freezer - To hasten the process of defrosting place a bowl of boiling water in the bottom of your freezer placed on a chopping board. Close the lid. Ice will melt faster. Repeat if necessary.
HOUSEHOLD CLEANING TIPS FOR THE KITCHEN

* Leftover wine and beer can be added to stews and casseroles.

* The strong flavour of onion rings is lessened and their crispness retained if they are soaked in iced, salted water for an hour before being added to the salads.

* Prick an egg with a needle at the rounded end to prevent cracking when boiling.

* Scrambled eggs will not become watery if you add 1 teaspoon of cornflour to the mixture before cooking.

* whipping cream stays fresh for days if you add a pinch of baking soda to the cream while whipping.

* Baked potatoes will be crisper if they are brushed with a little oil before baking.

* To quickly dry herbs, remove the leaves from the stalks, wipe them clean without washing, place between paper towels and microwave on high for 3 minutes. Turn if necessary and microwave a little longer. Remove and crumble.

* To make corned beef taste better when cooking, add a dash of vinegar, a tablespoon of honey and a few cloves while cooking.

* To tenderize tough meat when boiling, add half a teaspoon of cream of tartar to the water.

* Before making flour into a batter for a pudding add a dessertspoonful of ground rice. This will make the pudding lighter.

* When frying fish, sprinkle a little curry powder into the pan. It prevents the ‘fishy’ smell and improves flavour and colour.

* A stick of cinnamon or 1/2 teaspoon of cloves added to the water when stewing apples, peaches, pears or prunes will give them a lovely spicy flavour.

* Warm jam will allow you to spread it more easily on cakes and sponges, and will also prevent it from soaking through.

* If you have a collapsed meringue top it with some marshmallows and them toast it under a grill or a very hot oven.

* To remove the smell of smoke from the kitchen, burn a few drops of vinegar on a hotplate or pan.

* Household cleaning tips for cleaning your microwave. Place a quarter of a cup of vinegar in a coffee cup and fill the rest up with water. Bring the water to boil in the microwave. Remove and clean down sides of microwave more easily.

* Household cleaning tips for cleaning your hands after handling fish; rub them with a slice of lemon. Rinse as usual.

* Household cleaning tips for cleaning your dishwasher; Keep the inside of your dishwasher clean and sparkling by pouring a cup of vinegar inside and running through a cycle. If you repeat this on a regular basis, the inside of your dishwasher will soon look like new again.

* Household cleaning tips for keeping ants out of your kitchen. Don’t use insecticides and sprays, just spray undiluted vinegar around doorways, windows and anywhere else you spot them.

HOUSEHOLD CLEANING TIPS FOR THE HOUSE

* To dry wet shoes fill them with crumbled newspapers and wrap each shoe in some newspaper. The paper will absorb the moisture.

* To sharpen your sewing machine needles, place a piece of fine sandpaper under the needle and sew through it as if you were sewing though cloth.

* To remove white marks on your wooden furniture here is a great homemade cleaning products recipe; use a mix of linseed oil and turpentine. Gently simmer 1/2 litre of linseed oil for 10 minutes. Removed from the stove and add 125 ml of turpentine. Mix the 2 ingredients together and apply to the burn marks.

* Other household cleaning tips. A cloth dampened with kerosene will keep chrome taps and faucets shiny and gleaming.

* Other stain remover tips. To remove fruit stains from material, soak it in cream of tartar and wash in the usual way.

Other household cleaning tips. To clean porcelain ornaments and rings use toothpaste.

* To help angora wool go further, knit alternate rows with 2-ply wool.

* Other stain remover tips. To remove bloodstains, egg, writing ink use cold water and rinse well before washing in hot suds.

* Other stain remover tips. To remove coffee, tea, ice cream, milk, butter wash in warm water and then wash in warm suds.

* Other stain remover tips. To remove oil-based paint from clothes use turpentine.

* Other stain remover tips. To remove ballpoint ink, grass, lipstick, mascara use methylated spirits.

* Other stain remover tips. To remove mildew from bathrooms and plastic shower curtains use bleach.

* Other household cleaning tips. A window cleaner mixture is made using 1 cup of kerosene, 1 cup methylated spirits and 1 cup water. Place in a bottle and shake well before using. To use put a few drops on a cloth and wipe over mirrors and windows. No polishing needed.

http://www.millennium-ark.net/NEWS/10_USA/100512.10.things.4collapse.html

20 Things You Will Need to Survive When the Economy Collapses and the Next Great Depression Begins

Today, millions of Americans say that they believe that the United States is on the verge of a major economic collapse and will soon be entering another Great Depression. But only a small percentage of those same people are prepared for that to happen. The sad truth is that the vast majority of Americans would last little more than a month on what they have stored up in their homes. Most of us are so used to running out to the supermarket or to Wal-Mart for whatever we need that we never even stop to consider what would happen if suddenly we were not able to do that. Already the U.S. economy is starting to stumble about like a drunken frat boy. All it would take for the entire U.S. to resemble New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina would be for a major war, a terror attack, a deadly pandemic or a massive natural disaster to strike at just the right time and push the teetering U.S. economy over the edge. So just how would you survive if you suddenly could not rely on the huge international corporate giants to feed, clothe and supply you and your family? Do you have a plan?

Unless you already live in a cave or you are a complete and total mindless follower of the establishment media, you should be able to see very clearly that our society is more vulnerable now than it ever has been. This year there have been an unprecedented number of large earthquakes around the world and volcanoes all over the globe are awakening. You can just take a look at what has happened in Haiti and in Iceland to see how devastating a natural disaster can be. Not only that, but we have a world that is full of lunatics in positions of power, and if one of them decides to set off a nuclear, chemical or biological weapon in a major city it could paralyze an entire region. War could erupt in the Middle East at literally any moment, and if it does the price of oil will double or triple (at least) and there is the possibility that much of the entire world could be drawn into the conflict. Scientists tell us that a massive high-altitude EMP (electromagnetic pulse) blast could send large portions of the United States back to the stone age in an instant. In addition, there is the constant threat that the outbreak of a major viral pandemic (such as what happened with the 1918 Spanish Flu) could kill tens of millions of people around the globe and paralyze the economies of the world.

But even without all of that, the truth is that the U.S. economy is going to collapse. So just think of what will happen if one (or more) of those things does happen on top of all the economic problems that we are having.

Are you prepared?

The following is a list of 20 things you and your family will need to survive when the economy totally collapses and the next Great Depression begins....

#1) Storable Food

Food is going to instantly become one of the most valuable commodities in existence in the event of an economic collapse. If you do not have food you are not going to survive. Most American families could not last much longer than a month on what they have in their house right now. So what about you? If disaster struck right now, how long could you survive on what you have? The truth is that we all need to start storing up food. If you and your family run out of food, you will suddenly find yourselves competing with the hordes of hungry people who are looting the stores and roaming the streets looking for something to eat.

Of course you can grow your own food, but that is going to take time. So you need to have enough food stored up until the food that you plant has time to grow. But if you have not stored up any seeds you might as well forget it. When the economy totally collapses, the remaining seeds will disappear very quickly. So if you think that you are going to need seeds, now is the time to get them.

#2) Clean Water

Most people can survive for a number of weeks without food, but without water you will die in just a few days. So where would you get water if the water suddenly stopped flowing out of your taps? Do you have a plan? Is there an abundant supply of clean water near your home? Would you be able to boil water if you need to?

Besides storing water and figuring out how you are going to gather water if society breaks down, another thing to consider is water purification tablets. The water you are able to gather during a time of crisis may not be suitable for drinking. So you may find that water purification tablets come in very, very handy.

#3) Shelter

You can’t sleep on the streets, can you? Well, some people will be able to get by living on the streets, but the vast majority of us will need some form of shelter to survive for long. So what would you do if you and your family lost your home or suddenly were forced from your home? Where would you go?

The best thing to do is to come up with several plans. Do you have relatives that you can bunk with in case of emergency? Do you own a tent and sleeping bags if you had to rough it? If one day everything hits the fan and you and your family have to “bug out” somewhere, where would that be? You need to have a plan.

#4) Warm Clothing

If you plan to survive for long in a nightmare economic situation, you are probably going to need some warm, functional clothing. If you live in a cold climate, this is going to mean storing up plenty of blankets and cold weather clothes. If you live in an area where it rains a lot, you will need to be sure to store up some rain gear. If you think you may have to survive outdoors in an emergency situation, make sure that you and your family have something warm to put on your heads. Someday after the economy has collapsed and people are scrambling to survive, a lot of folks are going to end up freezing to death. In fact, in the coldest areas it is actually possible to freeze to death in your own home. Don’t let that happen to you.

#5) An Axe

Staying along the theme of staying warm, you may want to consider investing in a good axe. In the event of a major emergency, gathering firewood will be a priority. Without a good tool to cut the wood with that will be much more difficult.

#6) Lighters Or Matches

You will also want something to start a fire with. If you can start a fire, you can cook food, you can boil water and you can stay warm. So in a true emergency situation, how do you plan to start a fire? By rubbing sticks together? Now is the time to put away a supply of lighters or matches so that you will be prepared when you really need them.

In addition, you may want to consider storing up a good supply of candles. Candles come in quite handy whenever the electricity goes out, and in the event of a long-term economic nightmare we will all see why our forefathers relied on candles so much.

#7) Hiking Boots Or Comfortable Shoes

When you ask most people to list things necessary for survival, this is not the first or the second thing that comes to mind. But having hiking boots or very comfortable and functional shoes will be absolutely critical. You may very well find yourself in a situation where you and your family must walk everywhere you want to go. So how far do you think you will get in high heels? You will want footwear that you would feel comfortable walking in for hours if necessary. You will also want footwear that will last a long time, because when the economy truly collapses you may not be able to run out to the shoe store and get what you need at that point.

#8) A Flashlight And/Or Lantern

When the power goes off in your home, what is the first thing that you grab? Just think about it. A flashlight or a lantern of course. In a major emergency, a flashlight or a lantern is going to be a necessity - especially if you need to go anywhere at night.

Solar powered or “crank style” flashlights or lanterns will probably be best during a long-term emergency. If you have battery-powered units you will want to begin storing up lots and lots of batteries.

#9) A Radio

If a major crisis does hit the United States, what will you and your family want? Among other things, you will all want to know what in the world is going on. A radio can be an invaluable tool for keeping up with the news.

Once again, solar powered or “crank style” radios will probably work best for the long term. A battery-powered until would work as well - but only for as long as your batteries are able to last.

#10) Communication Equipment

When things really hit the fan you are going to want to communicate with your family and friends. You will also want to be able to contact an ambulance or law enforcement if necessary. Having an emergency cell phone is great, but it may or may not work during a time of crisis. The Internet also may or may not be available. Be sure to have a plan (whether it be high-tech or low-tech) for staying in communication with others during a major emergency.

#11) A Swiss Army Knife

If you have ever owned a Swiss Army knife you probably already know how incredibly handy they can be. It can be a very valuable and versatile tool. In a true survival situation, a Swiss Army knife can literally do dozens of different things for you. Make sure that you have at least one stored up for emergencies.

#12) Personal Hygiene Items

While these may not be absolute “essentials”, the truth is that life will get very unpleasant very quickly without them. For example, what would you do without toilet paper? Just think about it. Imagine that you just finished your last roll of toilet paper and now you can’t get any more. What would you do?

The truth is that soap, toothbrushes, toothpaste, shampoo, toilet paper and other hygiene products are things that we completely take for granted in society today. So what would happen if we could not go out and buy them any longer?

#13) A First Aid Kit And Other Medical Supplies

One a more serious note, you may not be able to access a hospital or a doctor during a major crisis. In your survival supplies, be absolutely certain that you have a good first aid kit and any other medical supplies that you think you may need.

#14) Extra Gasoline

There may come a day when gasoline is rationed or is simply not available at all. If that happens, how will you get around? Be certain to have some extra gasoline stored away just in case you find yourself really needing to get somewhere someday.

#15) A Sewing Kit

If you were not able to run out and buy new clothes for you and your family, what would you do? Well, you would want to repair the clothes that you have and make them last as long as possible. Without a good sewing kit that will be very difficult to do.

#16) Self-Defense Equipment

Whether it is pepper spray to fend off wild animals or something more “robust” to fend off wild humans, millions of Americans will one day be thankful that they have something to defend themselves with.

#17) A Compass

In the event of a major emergency, you and your family may find yourselves having to be on the move. If you are in a wilderness area, it will be very hard to tell what direction you are heading without a compass. It is always a good idea to have at least one compass stored up.

#18) A Hiking Backpack

If you and your family suddenly have to “bug out”, what will you carry all of your survival supplies in? Having a good hiking backpack or “survival bag” for everyone in your family is extremely important. If something happened in the city where you live and you suddenly had to “go”, what would you put your most important stuff in? How would you carry it all if you had to travel by foot? These are very important things to think about.

#19) A Community

During a long-term crisis, it is those who are willing to work together that will have the best chance of making it. Whether it is your family, your friends, a church or a local group of people that you know, make sure that you have some people that you can rely on and work together with in the event that everything hits the fan. Loners are going to have a really hard time of surviving for long.

#20) A Backup Plan

Lastly, it is always, always, always important to have a backup plan for everything.

If someone comes in and steals all the food that you have stored up, what are you going to do?

If travel is restricted and your can’t get to your “bug out” location immediately do you have a Plan B?

If you have built your house into an impregnable survival fortress but circumstances force you to leave do you have an alternate plan?

The truth is that crisis situations rarely unfold just as we envision. It is important to be flexible and to be ready with backup plans when disaster strikes.

You don’t want to end up like the folks in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. You don’t want to have to rely on the government to take care of you if something really bad happens.

Right now the U.S. strategic grain reserve contains only enough wheat to make half a loaf of bread for each of the approximately 300 million people in the United States.

How long do you think that is going to last?

Now is the time to get ready.

Now is the time to prepare.

The United States economy is going to collapse and incredibly hard times are coming.

Will you be able to survive when it happens?

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/biodynamics.html

What does Biodynamic Farming Offer the Organic Farmer? Biodynamics Explained

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What is Biodynamics?

Biodynamic farming was a concept put forward by Dr. Rudolf Steiner and is based around the following pivotal concepts:

1) The importance of of maintaining a sustainable soil fertility.

2) The relationship between plant growth and the rhythms of the cosmos.

Biodynamic farming places great importance on the rhythmic positions of moon, sun and planets when sowing seeds, transplanting, applying liquid manures or spraying fruit trees and crops, i.e. Moon Planting.

Biodynamic farming uses a series of preparations which are based on various mineral, plant and animal substances. These will enhance all the bacterial and mineral processes that are found in the organic farming system.

Therefore Biodynamics in a nutshell is the ‘Biological’ practices of organic farming that improve the quality and fertility of the soil. ‘Dynamic’ practices are intended to influence the biological and metaphysical aspects of the farm.
Normal Organic Farming Practices

Organic farmers practise the following management techniques to maintain a sustainable system.

1) They ensure plant nutrients are maintained by addition of animal manures, or green manures made into composts, and also use additional essential mineral elements.

2) Animal manures are usually combined with plant materials, and are applied in the form of well made composts, in which the organic materials have been converted into stable humus through a fermentation process.

3) Cover Crops in the form of green manures and quick growing legumes and/or grasses are ploughed into the ground, mulched onto the top of the soil or used as compost-making material.

4) Phosphorus may be used by top-dressing crops with natural rock phosphate, calcium by a light dressing of hydrated or agricultural lime. If magnesium is also deficient, dolomite may be used instead of lime.

5) Crops are rotated to control weeds, fungi and insects and to promote healthier plants.
What does Biodynamic Farming therefore offer the Organic Farmer?

The organic farmer would continue to enrich the soil as already stated above, however, with biodynamic farming, it has been shown that techniques used make these processes occur more effectively and more efficiently.
Biodynamic Farming and the Preparations that ensure for better Soil Fertility and Healthier Plants

These preparations for biodynamic farming were suggested by Steiner in great detail. Where the first 2 preparations (500 & 501) are used for field preparation, Preparations 502-507 are for making compost.

Horn Manure Preparation (500) is made from taking cow manure and stuffing it into well-cleaned cow horns. 4 horns are used for each hectare of land. These are then buried in root-free soil, to a depth of 40-60 cm, placed during autumn and left to decompose over winter. It is to be used in spring and horns are removed during a descending period of the moon.

It brings in the Earthly forces and helps the soil develop humus and structure and attract earthworms and soil micro-organisms. Best of all, it will work equally well in any soil type whether it is silt, clay, volcanic or peat.

Horn Manure Preparation (500) is applied at 75 grams/hectare, stirred for 1 hour in 34 liters of high quality water - slightly warmed. This is applied to the whole farm 2-4 times a year in spring and autumn in droplet form, late afternoon. It can also be sprayed prior to planting.

Horn Silica Preparation (501) is made from ground quartz crystal which brings in the silica activity. It is buried in the same soil pits used for (500), in cleaned cow horns, over summer and used in autumn. When removing the horns the moon should be in an ascending position.

The yellowish silica powder is removed from the horns and stored in glass jars, near light.

Only a tiny amount is used in biodynamics to take the light forces into the roots to aid photosynthesis, uptake of minerals and trace elements from the soil, increase dry fibre content and sweetness of the fruit or grass. It aids in the resistance to pests and fungal disease by increasing the sugar content in the sap which strengthens the root system.

It should be sprayed on crops at low pressure during the wet season to prevent fungal diseases. In addition, it should be applied on an overcast day to prevent the leaves from getting burned by the sun.

It can be sprayed on fruit trees at budding to strengthen against insect attack. Use again at Moon opposition Saturn each month when fruit is walnut size for apples and stone fruit, and for grapes, one two-thirds of the size has been reached. Spray again when fruit is about to ripen to increase sugar levels and aid in its keeping qualities.

2 grams is stirred in 34 litres of high quality water for one hour and applied at sunrise to all crops and pastures over spring and summer.

Yarrow Preparation (502) uses the yarrow flowers which are then placed in a dried, inflated stag, moose or deer bladder. Before using the bladder soak it in warmed rainwater. Moisten the flowers with warmed rainwater before placing in bladder. Stuff until bulging and close with thread. This is suspended off the ground, 6 feet in the air, and placed in full sun during the summer. During the autumn it is buried 6-12 inches in fertile soil. After a year, removed the flowers from the bladder and store in an earthenware pot.

It is used in biodynamic farming to stimulate the potassium, silica, selenium activating bacteria and helps combine sulphur with other substances. Remedies weaknesses in flowering and fruiting, and strengthens the plant against insect attack. The Yarrow Preparation aids the soil in connecting to the planetary rhythms.

Chamomile Preparation (503) uses the chamomile flowers which are packed in the small intestines of recently dead cows. Collect the flowers are early as possible in the spring and then dry them. Before stuffing them into the intestine moisten with warm rainwater. This is buried in autumn in fertile soil and used in spring. Store in an earthenware pot until needed.

It retains nitrogen and calcium which helps to strengthen the plant’s regenerative life activity and reunites this with the physical. It also stimulates manganese and boron, as well as azotobacter activity which is the best bacteria for creating nitrogen in the soil.

Stinging Nettle Preparation (504) uses the whole Stinging Nettle plant before it flowers. Allow the flowers to dry slightly so that is fades somewhat in colour. It is then buried in an earthenware pot in fertile soil for a year with peat on all four sides. Remove, sieve and store in an earthen pot.

This preparation in biodynamic farming conveys intelligence to the soil, helps in decomposition, aids chlorophyll formation, stimulates iron, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur activity in the soil.

Oak Bark Preparation (505) is chopped into small pieces and placed in a cleaned skull of a cow, or another domesticated animal. This is then surrounded in peat and buried in a place where there is a lot of watershed from rain. It remains buried for the winter. Store in an earthen pot until needed.

This preparation helps pull the earthly forces back into the soil, when the water activity is working too strongly, such as after lots of rain or at full moon. It also helps to prevent fungal disease. Helps calcium and phosphorus work its way into the earth.

Dandelion Preparation (506) uses dandelion flowers which are stuffed into a cow’s mesentery (peritoneum) and buried in winter to be used in spring.

This stimulates the potassium/silica bacteria in the soil to enable it to work more effectively with the growth forces. Can help with flowering and fruiting. Also stimulates the magnesium, boron and selenium soil activity.

Valerian Preparation (507) uses the dried flowers to make a tincture, with the water to dilute using a ratio of 1:4. A teaspoon of this is then added to 15 liters of quality water and used to spray the whole compost heap to form a warmth blanket.

This stimulates the phosphorus process and aids the phosphorus-activating bacteria in the soil, as well as selenium and magnesium. If sprayed onto fruit blossoms in spring it can provide protection from a late frost.

Horsetail Preparation (508) uses horsetail or casuarina leaves. The green shoots of the horsetail are collected and dried.

This can be used as a tea to control fungal diseases. Take 100g dried leaves, mix with 5 litres of high quality water and boil gently. Before using stir for 10 minutes and spray on plants and soil during full moon.

Using the Compost Preparations

As said earlier, Preparations 502-507 are mainly used for making compost, liquid manure or tea.

A teaspoon of each is taken and added to a dung heap. Only preparations 502-506 are used by digging 50 cm holes into the dung, 2 metres apart and adding a teaspoon of each. The Valerian preparation (507) is used in biodynamic farming to promote warmth.
Biodynamic Farming and the Compost Heap

The compost heap is trapezoidal in shape with a base width of 15 feet and a top width of 6 feet. It should never exceed 6 feet in height.

Drainage tiles or brushwood are added first to create suitable drainage. Then manure, bedding straw, sawdust, fallen leaves, and other organic matter are added to the heap in thin layers, with the vegetation always been moistened with rainwater first. In between the organic material are thin layers of sprinkled lime or other rock powders and then finally soil. The compost heap is built like this, with these 3 layers, ending off with a layer of soil which will cover the compost heap completely.

It is only when the compost heap is about 3 feet high that the special preparations 502-507 are put into the compost heap.

After about 4-5 months the compost heap is mixed and turned. More preparations are added to the pile if needed.
Getting the Most out of Biodynamic Farming

Biodynamic farming allows you to achieve high yields in small spaces. The best way to use your compost it in raised vegetable beds or by if you are going to use ordinary beds, it should be incorporated into the soil through the ‘double digging’ method. Here beds are dug to 2 spade’s deep. Then the soil is removed in rows, to the depths of 1 spade’s depth and set aside. Compost is mixed into the remaining soil in the trench. Organic material is also added to the soil that has been set aside and that is then added back into the newly mixed trench.

Read our exclusive Biodynamics Interview with Bernard Jarman, director of Biodynamic Agricultural Association, UK.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/biodynamics-interview.html

Biodynamics Interview:
Biodynamics Agricultural Association

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Interviewee: Bernard Jarman (Director)
Company: Biodynamic Agricultural Association (UK)
Date of Interview: 26/05/2009
http://www.biodynamic.org.uk

Firstly, we would like to thank you for agreeing to participate in this interview and sharing your thoughts and beliefs on a very interesting farming concept that has been around for some time. However, despite this, I am sure that there are many farmers and small plot owners who have never heard about biodynamic farming.

1.) Could you please give us a brief overview of the concept of biodynamics and what it is your organization hopes to achieve?

Biodynamic farming and gardening is the oldest consciously organic approach. It was inspired by a series of lectures given by Rudolf Steiner in 1924.

Key principles are:

- Work with and not against nature

- Stay within the living (no chemicals and artificials)

- Create a self-sustaining, closed system farm (home produced feed and fertility)

- Enhance soil vitality

- Work with life rhythms of nature and cosmos

- See life in its widest spiritual-cosmic context

The BDAA disseminates information about biodynamic food and farming, trains biodynamic farmers and gardeners, runs workshops and introductory days, operates the Demeter certification scheme (guaranteeing that biodynamic methods are followed). There are biodynamic organisations throughout the world which we are linked to.

New members are welcome to join as farmers, gardeners or simply as interested persons.

2.) To the man in the street, it may not be very different to organic farming, except with a spiritual element. Would you like to comment on this statement and also, could you tell us how biodynamics can benefit the organic farmer who is already improving the soil with manures, exercising natural pest control and conscious of sustainable farming practices?

Biodynamic and organic farming have the common objective of using organic manures and composts to build up fertile and living soil and avoid all artificial fertilisers, GM material and poisonous chemicals. The biodynamic concept embraces an understanding of nature and the human being which embraces not only soil biology and the ecosystem but also the primary spiritual forces working behind them. These include influences streaming in from the sun, moon and stars as well as those of the many diverse forms of life on our planet. Biodynamic practices aim to enhance the vitality of the soil, plants, animals and ultimately human beings. The key to doing this is by conceiving the whole farm as a living individualised organism.

Biodynamic measures can help organic farmers by providing tools for enhancing the health of their plants and animals, increasing soil vitality and producing wholesome well balanced and flavoursome food.

3.) Does the ritual of planting horns with various substances beneath the soil, and then retrieving them later on have any scientific research to prove that there are additional benefits to produce being grown with such practices?

Cow horns are used for making two special biodynamic spray preparations. One is made by filling the horns with cow manure, the other with finely milled quartz. Both are placed in the soil for six months, one over winter , the other over summer. The first helps plants to root and find what they need from the soil, the second strengthens resistance and enhances ripening. Both have been used by biodynamic farmers for nearly 90 years to good effect. Their positive effects have also been backed up by numerous experimental trials in various parts of the world.

4.) A number of vineyards have adopted this form of agriculture. Why do you think that this particular sector of agriculture appears to be using biodynamics with such vigor, as opposed to others that have been more cautious in adopting your principles?

Wine is the one product whose quality is primarily determined by flavour. Time and again biodynamic produce has been shown to have enhanced flavour. Local flavours are essential too and wine growers know that biodynamic methods increase plant sensitivity and enable vines to draw up the minerals unique to the specific site resulting in special local flavours.

5.) Are there any limitations to biodynamics?

I think biodynamics has huge potential in many areas. It is applicable throughout the world and for all forms of agriculture, horticulture, sylviculture and land management.

6.) What does the future hold for biodynamics? Is it just a fad, or is it here to stay?

The destructive consequences of current chemical intensive monoculture systems are apparent for all to see. The regeneration of our soils needs biodynamic methods. This is huge future task. Biodynamic food is also important for the health of the population. Biodynamic is at the beginning of its development and will be need more and more in years to come.

We would like to Bernard Jarman for this very insightful and comprehensive interview.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/terrace-gardening.html

Terrace Gardening: Growing Vegetables in Containers

Growing vegetables under the guidance of Dr. Vishwanath

Terrace gardening is as old as the days of Babylon, but today it has a new meaning in India. Dr. Vishwanath, has pioneered organic terrace gardening in Bangalore by providing training to residents in their own locality and supplying the needed inputs like seeds, manure, plant protection materials, implements, containers etc. People in Bangalore are now growing vegetables in containers and benefiting from organic produce treated with natural pesticides and insecticides.

Container gardening is increasing in this city, and more and more people, thanks to Dr. Vishwanath, are growing vegetables in containers and growing vegetables in raised beds.

We asked Dr. Vishwanath a couple of questions about his work in Bangalore and his encouragement for people to grow organic vegetables on their balconies and rooftops. These were his answers:

1) Dr. Vishwanath, you have been attributed to have pioneered the concept of organic terrace gardening in Bangalore. What exactly is organic terrace gardening and what are the benefits of such cultivation?

Before answering, “What exactly is organic terrace gardening?”(OTG), I have to first clarify a question. “Why terrace gardens?”

Bangalore, it’s new name is now Bengaluru, was once called the “Garden City”, where every household used to have either an ornamental garden or a kitchen garden. Then it was also called the “Air-conditioned City”. But it started losing both names as people started building on the entire area allotted instead of leaving space for gardens.

Then they started cutting trees for roads buildings and so on. The result? An increase in temperature. That’s the price we paid for development. Due to development we started losing agricultural lands, not only in Bengaluru, but also in peri-urban areas which increased food mileage for vegetables to reach Bengaluru. The result? Increased prices.

That’s when I thought that we must do something about it. With the pressure building on land and its cost in the urban areas, there is hardly any space to have a garden. So if one wants to grow vegetables domestically the only alternative was the terrace which provides the ideal space. And the open terrace was getting heated up adding to the temperature increase in Bengaluru and also adding to global warming.

So in 1994-95 it was planned, with the help of my staff at KADUR AGRO, that we start growing vegetables on the concrete pathways, which finally led me to conduct workshops. As I was in the organic movement it was termed organic terrace gardening where there is no use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and we use only open-pollinated seeds. The compost and worm-compost is to be done on the terrace itself.

growing tomatoes on a roof top terrace

Now the benefits of organic terrace gardening. When you grow your own vegetables on a terrace it not only gives some space back to agriculture, but it also helps the grower to get chemical-free fresh vegetables. This will not only save money, but also time and energy spent on several trips to the vegetable market on polluted roads. Then it cools the house, it is also good exercise while tending and watering plants. Micro-climates will change as there is an increased production of oxygen and a reduction of carbon dioxide etc. Above all, the biggest gain would be eating healthy, chemical-free vegetables.

a roof-top organic terrace garden in India

2) On average, what would be the set-up costs for such a system for a family of 4 to be sustainable in vegetables all year around? What exactly would you need to start your terrace garden?

The set-up costs of terrace gardening depend on whether you want to start step-by-step or all at once. If you want to start all at once it will plus or minus Rs.20,000/- (just over USD 410.00) which is an investment on pots, growing medium and seeds (one time investment. Where one can harvest at least 4-6 different types of vegetables throughout the year. (But we must consider the other benefits which I have mentioned previously). Once you plan the arrangement of pots, the rest is easy to grow and harvest.

Now we have come out with another alternative that is growing in boxes, using only compost, wormi-compost and coir pith. It reduces the weight. This is sort of square-foot gardening taken to the roof tops.

Coming to the second part of your question...It’s the interest of the individual if he believes in the concept of healthy living, then rest is easy. If you believe in a concept you will do anything to achieve it. That’s the philosophy. However, the basic need is a good roof which is waterproofed,pots/boxes, growing medium, minimum water, seed material, and little interest.

3) How do the majority of people water their terrace gardens? Do you encourage them to save rain water in barrels from roof tops or do they use water from the mains?

The majority of the people use potable water supplied by the department. However, we highlight the importance of potable water and ask them not to waste potable water and also explain to them the simple methods of rain water harvesting. And the concept is sinking in. The government is also insisting on rain water harvesting to be implemented in all new buildings.

4) In your book, “A handbook of Organic Terrace Gardening” you mention that you can even grow melons on a terrace. I have always known melons to take up quite a lot of space when they are grown. So just how much space do you need to feed a family of 4 from a terrace garden?

growing lemons on a roof-top terrace

A terrace of 25-35 feet will provide enough and more for a family of 4 people. Regarding melons, yes it takes more space in fields, but on terraces we have to train and confine them to one area. If planned properly, one can even grow fruit crops. This is what I call “Macro Bonsai”. There is a lady by name of Sowbagya who has grown mangoes, pomegranates, sapotas and guavas on her terrace.

5) What are the limitations to growing vegetables on terraces and balconies?

Coming to limitations, it’s really difficult to even think about limitations. That is, if your roof is weak or leaking, one can’t use your terrace for terrace gardening or anything. The other major limitation I can think of is if the roof is surrounded by tall buildings and not allowing sun rays to fall on the roof, one can’t grow vegetables. But still, one can grow commercial crops like anthuriums, orchids, vanilla as cash crops if its fully shaded or under a shade net.

6) How successful have you been in getting people to change their habits? Are many families in Bangalore adopting this method of growing vegetables?

As I mentioned earlier it’s the interest of the individual. Even though the workshops have been conducted since 1994-95, the number of people who adopted terrace gardening was less than 2 or 3 for every 1000 trained. However over the last 1-2 years, abruptly the interest has increased and we see more than 2 for every 20 people trained. Now there are more than 50 terrace gardeners in Bangalore and their breed is increasing.

7) Do you have any special recipes for getting rid of insects using organic sprays?

A good question. Pest management starts from the planning stage itself as it is advised to grow chrysanthemums and marigold to protect them from pests. Organic cultivation itself gives some resistance to pest attack. However there are organic sprays which individuals can formulate and sprayed on to plants to protect them from pest attacks, that is, by using a Neem/tobacco/onion–garlic-chilli concoction.

We thank Dr. Vishwanath very much for taking the time to tell us about this concept. We hope that what you have just read will inspire those of you who live in flats and have terraces to think about terrace gardening and growing vegetables in containers.

There is a National Seminar for Organic Terrace Gardening for those of you who are interested taking place in Bangalore, India in September, 2010. Details can be found here:

National Seminar for Organic Terrace Gardening

You can read more about Dr. Vishwanath in two newspaper articles that were sent to me courtesy of Dr. Vishwanath. The Hindu Newspaper
DNA India Newspaper

Worm Compost : How to Set up a Simple Worm Farm and Make Compost in 4 Months

MAKING WORM COMPOST: Introduction

Worm compost has great benefits for your vegetable gardens. With our guidelines, in a couple of months you can have vermicompost for your garden. It virtually makes itself!

Have you always wanted to start a worm farm, but didn’t know how to go about it? Or was the thought all too complicated? I will show you below how easy it is, and how you can have rich, friable vermicompost within 4 short months that will help to grow those vegetables and enrich the rest of your garden. Don’t delay, read this article and start your worm farm today!

MAKING WORM COMPOST: – Earthworms are a Farmer’s Best Friend.

Vermicompost is vital to good soil. In the previous article on Organic Farming one of the sections dealt with soil and how important having healthy soil is to Organic Farming as a healthy soil equates to healthy vegetables and cattle. One of the main contributors to this process is the lowly earthworm. However, more and more people nowadays are realizing how useful this little animal is. The casts, or the manure that is produced by earthworms, is called vermicompost.

MAKING WORM COMPOST: The humble earthworm’s activities result in numerous advantages:

1) When worm farming if you start your own vermicompost heap you generate an endless supply of cheap compost that is chemically-free, eco friendly and uses up biodegradable matter that before one would dispose of.

2) The worm compost is friable and improves not only the structure of the soil, but also the rate of water retention.

3) The soil is enriched. The concentrations of nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, and phosphates are all higher in soil that has earthworms.

4) By using worm compost it suppresses certain types of weeds that would grow if the compost were not present.

5) Worm compost also promotes better root growth and structure, and is an excellent medium for growing seedlings and seeds as it enhances germination and crop yields.

So now that we know the benefits of worm compost, how do we go about setting up a small worm farm and what sort of bin should you choose?

MAKING WORM COMPOST: What Size and Type of Composting Bins are Best for you when Starting your Worm Farm?

For each 500 g (1 pound) of food waste produced each week, you will need at least 30 cm squared (1 ft squared) of composting bin space. Therefore choose the size of the composting bin, or composting tumbler that is appropriate for your size family. As a benchmark for 2-3 people you should have composting bins measuring 60 x 60 x 30 cm stocked with 1 kg of worms.

Most small composting bins for vermicompost use can be grouped into three categories:

1) Non-continuous composting bin – an undivided container, a layer of organic matter is placed in the composting bin lining the bottom. Worms are then added and organic matter for composting is added in a layer above the bedding. Another layer is added on top of the organic matter and the worms will start to compost the organic matter and bedding. This type of bin is often used because it is small and easy to build. But it is relatively difficult to harvest because all the materials and worms must be emptied out when harvesting.

2) Continuous vertical flow composting bin – a series of trays are stacked vertically on top of one another. The bottom tray is filled first, in a similar fashion to the non-continuous bin, but is not harvested when it is full. Instead, a thick layer of bedding is added on top and the tray above is used for adding organic material. Worms finish composting the materials in the bottom tray and then migrate to the one above. When a sufficient number of worms have migrated, the worm compost in the bottom tray can be collected and should be relatively free of worms. These bins provide an easier method of harvesting, as they do not all have to be emptied out.

3) Continuous horizontal flow composting bin – a series of trays are lined horizontally. This method too relies on the earthworms migrating towards a food source in order to ease the process of harvesting. The composting bin is usually constructed to be similar to a non-continuous bin but is longer and lies horizontally. It is divided in half, usually by a large gauge screen of chicken wire. One half is used until it becomes full, then the other half is filled with bedding and organic matter. In time, the worms migrate to the side with the food and the compost can then be collected. These bins are larger than a non-continuous system but still small enough to be used for small-scale worm farming, with the added advantage of being easier to harvest.

MAKING WORM COMPOST: Setting up a small-scale Worm Farm

Setting up the composting bin is easier than you may think. All you need to start your worm farm are the following:

* A plastic bin with a lid to keep away the flies and to cut down on odours while the matter is decomposing. However, your worms will need oxygen, so drill holes in the bottom of the bin for ventilation and drainage and further help this process by placing the bin on some bricks to elevate it off the ground.

* Place some bedding in the bin for the worms in the form of either shredded paper (that from a mechanical shredder is perfect as it is really fine), peat moss or shredded coconut hair (coir) that can be commercially bought. Do not use glossy paper or magazines. This should not be more than about a fifth of your bin space. Remember that the worms eat the bedding, so you need to replenish this every few months.

* Water to dampen the bedding. Make sure that you don’t flood the composting bin with too much water. You just want to make the bedding moist.

* Get your food scraps that you have been saving up. The best scraps are fruit and vegetable peelings, fruit skins, apple cores etc. If you want to help your worms along, some of those scraps could be liquidized in a blender to quicken the process. Additions such as cow, sheep, pig or chicken manure is a bonus, but it is not a necessity.

* In setting up your worm farm avoid feeding the worms the following: meat, fats or dairy products, citrus, onions and garlic, fish, bones, tobacco, or pet or human manure. Too much fat prevents the earthworms from breathing properly as they breathe through their skin. Also avoid using too many watermelon skins as they really don’t have a lot of nutritional value for the earthworm and they also disrupt the moisture levels of the compost. If your lawns have been sprayed with any weed killer avoid feeding these clippings to the worms.

* Now it is time to place your worms into the bin. The type of worm is important and the red worms are the ones to get. These are called composting worms and known as Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida) or Red Earthworms (Lumbricus rubellus). Make sure that you do this on a sunny day and that the sun is shining into the compost bin. Earthworms don’t like the sun and they will immediately start digging down into their new home. If you don’t have the sun shining for this exercise you may find that most of your worms have crawled out of the bin and left for greener pastures! The worms can be bought commercially, including over the Internet.

* Now cover with two handfuls of soil to the bedding in each bin to supply “roughage” for the worms. Adding crushed eggshells provides not only roughage but also calcium for the worms, and it lowers acidity in the bin. Now put the lid down on the bin.

MAKING WORM COMPOST: Where should you Place your Worm Farm Bin?

Many people actually like to keep their bin inside, either in a garage, basement, kitchen or laundry area. I don’t think that compost bins belong indoors at all. Rather place the bin in a sheltered area out of the sun. In winter, you could move the bin to the garage, or surround it with some form of shelter like hay bales to keep the snow, rain and cold out.

MAKING WORM COMPOST: Maintaining your Worm Farm Bin

You have to make sure that you have enough moisture in your bin, without it getting too wet, and making sure that the compost is alkaline rather than acidic. You should turn the bin contents over on a regular basis, it’s best to do this every 3 days. Your worms require 3 things to exist:

i) Oxygen

ii) Moisture

iii) Food Scraps

iv) A dark place to live

If all requirements are met your worms will live quite happily in their new environment and will also procreate. Adult worms produce three cocoons a week and each cocoon will contain at least three baby worms and sometimes ten or more. Every three months the worms should be harvested or separated from the castings.

Make sure that your soil never smells sour. If this happens it means that the soil is too wet. If it smells sour then add calcium carbonate, also known as garden lime – very different to ordinary lime which will kill your worms, crushed egg shells, dirt, sand, or more newspaper to soak up that excess moisture.

So how wet should your compost be? - About 75% moist. What exactly does this mean? I can already hear you ask. Well, if you take a handful of matter and squeeze it hard you should only get about a drop or two of liquid. This is just how your worms like their environment and will be quite happy to stay.

No only will they be happy to stay they will also multiply. If conditions are good, you will double your worm population in six months. If the worms become crowded and you do not remove any, then worms will slow down their reproduction.

MAKING WORM COMPOST: Feeding your Worms

There are two methods of adding food scraps to the bin.

* Top feeding — This is when food scraps and biodegradable matter is placed directly on top of the existing layer in a bin and then covered with another layer of bedding and soil. This is repeated every time the bin is fed.

* Pocket feeding — a top layer of bedding is maintained and food is buried beneath by drilling down into the bedding. The location of the food is changed each time, rotating around the bin to give the worms time to decompose the food in the previously fed pockets. The top layer of bedding is replaced when necessary.

One pound of worms will eat about three and one half pounds of food scraps a week. If you add more food than your worms can handle, anaerobic conditions will set in and cause odour. Make sure that food scraps are always buried under the soil to avoid attracting flies and rodents.

MAKING WORM COMPOST: Knowing When and How to Harvest the Vermicompost for your Worm Farm

Smaller scale worm bins are harvested in a variety of ways, and the length of time it takes for the process to be completed really depends on a whole range of variables including the size of the container to start off with. In all cases, harvesting should begin when the bedding and consumed food has turned a rich dark brown. It should be moist and crumbly, with a consistency of coffee grounds.

After about six weeks, you will begin to see worm castings (soil-like material that has moved through the worms’ digestive tracts). Castings can boost plant growth, since they are rich in organic matter and the nutrients plants need to thrive, and are pulsing with biological activity that will bring life to your soil eco-system.

After about 4 months it will be time to separate the worms from the compost. If you have a non-continuous or undivided container, it is more difficult to harvest the worms. However, this situation is certainly not impossible. Take the contents and turn it upside-down on a piece of plastic such as a ground sheet or a tarpaulin. Because the earthworms are photosensitive, if this is done on a sunny day the worms will start burrowing down, and then it is easy to start scraping the compost from the top, waiting in between for them the move downwards. Wait 20-30 minutes before starting to scrape off the top layer of compost.

If, however, you are the impatient type, get yourself a fine meshed sieve, the type they use in construction yards, if your compost heap is fairly large, or a large household sieve will do. Sieve the compost until you have finely granulated composted on one side, and your worms in the other to start the process all over again. Don’t be lazy and put the worms into your soil along with the compost. It’s not that the worms will damage your plants in any way, but red worms are not worms that will survive for any length of time in such soil. In nature, this type of worm lives in mild climates in the leaves on the forest floor or in manure piles.

Be on the lookout for worm eggs. They are lemon-shaped and about the size of a match head. They are shiny in appearance, and are light brown in colour. The eggs contain between two and twenty baby worms. Although it is time consuming, you may want to return the eggs to your bin so they can hatch and thrive.

Another way to harvest the compost is to move the compost to one side of the box and add fresh bedding and food to the other side. Then only bury food on the new side. In six weeks, the worms will have migrated to the new bedding and you can harvest the finished compost, and replace it with new bedding.

Now that you have all this compost how are you going to use it?

You can use your vermicompost straight away or store it and use it later. It will be good for about a year.Mix it into the top six inches of soil in your garden and around your trees and plants. You can also use it as a top dressing on outdoor plants or sprinkle it on your lawn like you would as if you were top-dressing. Vermicompost makes great nutrient-rich mulch so is perfect for areas that don’t get lots of rain for moisture retention.

For indoor plants, you can safely mix vermicompost with your potting soil. Regarding indoor plants, make sure that you have removed all worms and eggs from the compost as they will not survive in an indoor pot.

You can also make a “compost tea” to feed to your plants. An easy recipe is to add two tablespoons of worm compost to one quart of water and allow it to steep for a day, mixing occasionally. Water your plants with this “tea” to give them a boost.

Author: Kathryn Bax - Website owner and developer of Country Living and Farm Lifestyles.

Of course you can make compost without worms too as long as you have some rotting material and lots of bacteria bugs. But do you know the optimal carbon to nitrogen ratio for this? Visit our Simple Life to find out more about the ratio and find other interesting worm composting links on the site, or just read about their very interesting site on how they changed their lifestyles.

Looking for more Information on Worm compost and worm farming?

For more information on how, as a dairy farmer, you could make good use of all that cow manure. Have a look at this fascinating video on commercial worm farming.

WORM FARMING VIDEOS

Worm Power - Worm Castings Fertilizer
Large-scale worm casting production.

The Worm Power Story
The full Worm Power video explaining production and usage of organic worm castings and vermicompost for flowers, fruits and vegetables, and wine grapes.

Setting Up a Worm Composting Bin
Detailed instructions for setting up a ‘deluxe’ Rubbermaid worm composting bin

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Square-Foot Gardening: Plans, Soil, Plants and Tips

square foot gardening layout

Square-foot gardening involves a little planning. But soon you will have more vegetables, in less space, with half the effort.

Mel Bartholomew is a man who has been attributed to creating a different method of growing vegetables and flowers, and that is not in rows, but in squares. Thus, the term Square-Foot Gardening, or for some, squarefoot gardening. However there is far more to this way of planting other than how you plant your plants, and to quote Mel about his method he says, “Square-Foot Gardening is a new way to garden, in less space, with less work.”

So what exactly is Square-Foot Gardening?

* Plants are planted in squares rather than rows.
* The squares are in multiples of 12 inches x 12 inches - the total measurement being 1 square foot.
* The squares are arranged so that you never have to stretch more than 2 square feet to reach your plants.
* As a result, you never have to walk on your garden, which prevents the soil from becoming compacted.
* Once your beds have been created, there is no need for any further cultivation.
* The number of plants per square foot will vary due to size and spread.
* Crop rotation and companion planting are to be encouraged.
* All climbing plants are trellised, further optimizing the use of space.
* It is a popular concept for raised bed gardens, especially for those who don’t want to bend all the time.
* The sets of squares are separated by pathways.

Square-Foot Gardening vs Conventional Gardening

Often we start off with good intentions of having a vegetable garden. But soon we find we don’t have the time to dedicate to these plants that are soon overrun with weeds and pests. Square-Foot Gardening for vegetables is the answer. According to Mel, by using this system you will save 80% of your space, time and money normally needed to garden, and in addition your results will produce a better harvest that is continuous with less work.

Square-Foot Gardening: Getting Started - The Soil

Many people find themselves with soil that is not the perfect growing medium for growing great flowers and vegetables. Furthermore, to try and improve this existing soil will not only take a lot of time, effort and money, but it could be several seasons before one gets good results. If you have poor soil then growing vegetables in containers, as squarefoot gardening is, is the only way to go.

The soil composition proposed is 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 compost. Vermiculite is preferred over perlite which may be cheaper but it does not absorb as much moisture, keeping your soil moist for longer, and it also floats up to the top of the soil when you water your garden, making it look unsightly.

The composition of the compost is important too. Most commercial bags of compost are only made up of one or two ingredients. To grow great fruit and vegetables you need at least five different composting materials. Therefore, it is advisable to buy five different types of commercial compost and mix them, or the best solution would be to make your own in your own backyard from vegetable scraps, grass clippings, leaves and farmyard manure. You can make compost very quickly. See our article on compost making using worms and making compost bins for storage.

The depth of your boxes and soil would be fine at 6 inches. The richness of the soil mix provides all the necessary nutrients for your plants and therefore there is no need for further depth to your soil.

Square-Foot Gardening: Placing a Permanent Grid

Once you have built your boxes and filled them with soil you will be tempted to start planting straight away. Don’t! You need to build an additional grid that will be a permanent feature of your boxes. On a 4x4 foot frame you will have a grid with 16 squares. This is your guide as to where you will need to put your plants.

This grid can be made out of strips of wood, dowling etc. and can be left on your frame throughout the year. With the grid you will be planting according to the squarefoot gardening method, without it, you will be tempted to go back to planting in rows.

Square-Foot Gardening: Planting the Seeds

With this method, no longer are we left with a surplus of crops we don’t know what to do with, nor do we end up thinning out crops which results in further wastage. Instead each square is planted with exactly the right number of seeds that you will be harvesting. For example 4 seeds of lettuce in one square foot of garden is all you need to harvest 4 lettuces at the end of it. If you want to harvest more lettuces you will plant accordingly. But at the end of the day, you only plant the number of seeds that you want plants.

However, no one family would ever end up eating more than 4 lettuces a week. So what one needs to do is to validate what you plant, and make sure that you plant successively to extend your harvesting season. This is done by planting another 4 seeds a week or two later. That way you can eat what you plant, without ending up with a glut.

The essence of this method is that when you plant your seeds you space them according to the final thinning spacings on the seed packet. So if the seeds should be thinned out at 5 cm each, this is where you plant each seed, and only one seed, and they are placed in the square foot and planted the same distance apart in all directions.

Square-Foot Gardening: How Many Seeds Per Square?

How many seeds will be determined by how big your plants will grow, and how much space they need to mature. Onion, carrot and radish seeds need only 3 inches around them to mature, allowing you to plant 16 plants in such an area. Whereas, spinach and bush beans need 4 inches. Therefore, only 9 plants can be planted per square foot.

16 squares a grouped together forming a 4 foot by 4 foot block, thus allowing accessibility from all sides, and preventing the need to trample through your veggies to weed and maintain them. With an average of 8 plants per square foot, this means that with a 4 foot x 4 foot frame you would be planting 130 plants.

Square-Foot Gardening: So What can you Plant in Each Square?

SMALL PLANTS: 16 radishes, 16 carrots, 16 onions, 9 bush beans, 9 spinach, 9 beets, 9 garlic, 8 peas, 4 Swiss chard, 4 lettuce, 4 parsley

LARGE PLANTS: 1 cabbage, 1 broccoli, 1 cauliflower, 1 green/red pepper, 1 eggplant, 1 potato, 1 corn

VERTICAL PLANTS: 1 tomato, 2 cucumbers, 1 musk melon, 8 pole beans

Square-Foot Gardening: Planting to Extend the Harvest

With nearly 2000 seeds in the average lettuce seed packet one really doesn’t need to plant the whole packet if you are growing lettuces for the average family, as you would never get through that many lettuces in a season. Therefore it stands to reason that the best method is to plant successively to extend the harvest period. This is done by leaving some of your squares vacant for a week or two and then planting them with more seeds of what you have already planted. companion planting with marigolds
Square-Foot Gardening: Companion Planting

I am a great advocate of companion planting and in this system you can easily plant those plants near your crops that will protect them. Marigolds, garlic, chives, onions and nasturtiums are just some of the plants that you can plant to deter bugs and beasties in your garden. We also advocate that you use natural pesticides that are less harmful to the environment.

We hope that this has given you some insight into Mel’s concept, and something for you to try next time you get into that veggie patch of yours. For more information you can buy his book through our Best Selling Books

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Vinegar Uses and Vinegar Tips: Gardening with Vinegar
Author: Kathryn Bax - Website Owner and Developer of Country Living and Farm Lifestyles

Vinegar has many uses and benefits and best of all, it is safe to use, doesn’t harm the environment, is freely available and it is cheap! It really is, therefore your eco-friendly organic pesticide, organic insecticide, and organic herbicide.

Here you will learn about the uses of vinegar and how you can garden with vinegar and pick up a few vinegar tips along the way. Along with getting rid of garden pests, it has so many other uses as well. It can also be used full-strength or diluted depending on the job at hand. It can also be used quite readily in the kitchen, bathroom and other areas of the house, but today, we are going to just concentrate on the outside areas. One word of warning, however, remember that when it is all said and done, you are working with acid, so make sure you protect your eyes. So what exactly can vinegar do for you?

Vinegar Uses: Keep Cats at Bay

First of all, for those of you who are plagued by pests and little critters in the garden, fret no more. Gardening with vinegar will keep cats at bay if you spray in areas you want to deter them, particularly that sand-pit you may have in the garden for the children but those cats will insist on using as their own private toilet! Heavily spray full-strength vinegar around the edges of the sandpit and remember to re-apply after it rains.

Vinegar Uses: Problems with Rabbits?

Are those rabbits eating your vegetables, particularly your beans and peas? Soak corncobs in full strength vinegar for a couple of hours until they are thoroughly soaked. You may even soak them overnight if you wish. Then place the cobs strategically around your veggie patch. They will keep rabbits away for as long as you re-soak your corncobs every two weeks.

Vinegar Uses: Problems with Ants?

Do you have an ant problem? Here’s another great vinegar tip. As an organic insecticide, you can apply full-strength vinegar to the ants and they will not come anywhere near the stuff. This is very useful if you find a trail of them making a way into your house. Just spray the thresholds and reapply every couple of days to ensure that they stay away.

Vinegar Uses: Problems with Snails and Slugs?

Gardening with vinegar is an answer to your problems with slugs and snails and vinegar here is your organic pesticide. Slugs are real pests, because they eat both vegetables, especially lettuces and plants, especially hostas. In this case, vinegar acts as a poison to the slugs because, if you spray slugs with it directly, they will die. You can treat snails in exactly the same way. However, because vinegar is also a herbicide, be careful where you spray your vinegar. Salvias for example will die, if they are sprayed as a casualty.

Vinegar Uses: Problems with Fruit Flies?

Are your fruit trees being invaded by fruit flies? Try this fruit fly bait, which is deadly and effective. Take 1 cup of water, a half a cup of cider vinegar, a quarter of a cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of molasses. Mix it all together. Take old tin cans without their lids and make two holes in opposite ends for wire handles. Attach the handles and add an inch of the mixture to each can. Hang 2 - 3 tins in each tree. Check on the traps on a regular basis to refill and clean when necessary.

Vinegar Uses: Vinegar as an Organic Fungicide

Ever thought of vinegar being an organic fungicide? After you have been digging in the garden with your gardening tools, soak them in a bucket of half-strength vinegar. This will act as a fungicide and kill off anything that may be lurking unsuspectingly so that there is no possibility of cross-contamination when you use them next.

Gardening with Vinegar will also help ailing plants. Are your garden plants struggling and your roses suffering from black spot or other fungal diseases? Take 2 tablespoons of white vinegar and mix it with 4 litres of compost tea. Now spray your garden plants with this mixture and see the difference. For roses, the method is slightly different. Take 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar, and mix it with 4 litres of water to control those fungal diseases. Of course, don’t forget the compost tea either on your roses to get the best results. For powdery mildew take 2-3 tablespoons of cider vinegar and mix with 4 litres of water and spray your plants. This will help control the problem.

Vinegar Uses: Vinegar for Acid Loving Plants

What about your acid-living plants like azaleas, gardenias and rhododendrons? Are they flowering as well as they could be? If not increase the soil’s acidity with this little vinegar tip. In hard water areas, add 1 cup of vinegar to 4 litres of tap water. It will also release iron into the soil for the plants to use. And if you have too much lime in your garden, add vinegar to neutralize it.

Vinegar Uses: Vinegar as an Organic Herbicide

In gardening with vinegar you can use it as an organic herbicide. Do you have weeds coming up in between your paving slabs on our driveway or pathway that you cannot remove by hand? Don’t use a herbicide that is know to damage the environment. Use eco-friendly vinegar as an alternative instead. Take 1 litre of boiled water, 2 tablespoons of salt and 5 tablespoons of vinegar. Mix altogether, and whilst still hot, pour onto the offending plants.

Vinegar Uses: Vinegar for Seed Germination

Did you know that you can improve your germination success rate of seeds by using vinegar? This is especially useful for those seeds that are more difficult to germinate such as asparagus and okra, morning glories and moonflowers. Rub the seeds gently first between two pieces of coarse sandpaper. Then soak the seeds overnight in 500 ml of warm water, 125 ml of vinegar and a squirt of washing-up liquid. Plant the next day as normal. You can use the same method, but without the sandpaper for nasturtiums, parsley, beetroot, and parsnips.

Vinegar Uses: Vinegar and Chickens

Will gardening with vinegar help you with squabbling chickens? You bet! Here is another vinegar tip, this time using cider vinegar. Add a tablespoon of cider vinegar to their drinking water, and they will stop pecking each other!

If you are impressed with the many uses of vinegar, you should be, because it is a very useful, and cheap liquid that is accessible to everyone. You may also be amazed when you hear that vinegar has some incredible health benefits as well. If you are interested in your health, and would like to learn more about the health properties of vegetables, vinegar and aloe vera, then Click Here for more details.

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Drying Fruit: Easy Steps on How to Dry Fruit in the Sun and Oven

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Drying fruit instructions for solar drying and oven drying, plus plans to build your own fruit dryer.

INTRODUCTION:

Drying food to keep for later use is one of the oldest and most simple ways of preserving food. So when you have a glut of your fruit this season think about drying them as well as bottling and making jams and jellies. Dried fruit can easily be reconstituted with boiling water and left to stand overnight. In the morning they can then be stewed and served with yogurt for breakfast, or you can dry your fruit for trails and camping. The only downside to drying fruit is that you can really only dry small quantities at a time.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED FOR DRYING FRUIT:

Drying Trays: A slatted wooden tray or some non-ferrous cake racks are suitable. If you are drying the fruit in the oven, the oven shelves can be used.

Cloth: A few pieces of muslin or cheesecloth will be needed to come between the fruit and the trays. The more open-weaved the cloth is, the better it is for air-circulation to occur.

Heat and Air: The fruit will need to be dried in hot, well-ventilated conditions. If this does not occur you run the risk of you fruit spoiling with mould.

SOLAR FRUIT DRYING:

Of course the sun is what our ancestors used before modern conveniences and it works well as long as you take some things into consideration. Firstly, make sure that your fruit is covered with muslin or cheesecloth so that you don’t have flies laying their eggs in the fruit. Secondly, you should only dry the fruit on sunny days, that don’t have a chance of a downpour of rain. Summer is by far the best time of year to do this. Lastly, always bring your fruit inside at night, and replace it outside in the morning.

DRYING FRUIT IN AN OVEN:

You can use your oven to dry fruit. Most types of ovens are fine for fruit drying; electric, solid-fuel or gas. The optimum temperature you should be aiming for is between 49°C (120°F) and 66°C (150°F). With such a wide temperature available, most fruit drying ends successfully.

DRYING FRUIT: PREPARATION OF VARIOUS FRUITS

To prepare stone fruit for drying, such as peaches and apricots they must be cut in half and then remove the stones. Lie them down, cut side up on the trays, being careful that they are not touching to allow adequate circulation.

Figs are not cut, but left whole. Place them bottoms down on the trays. They can be flattened with the palm of one’s hand as they start to dry, pressing them flat from the centre down.

Grapes can be dried either on the bunch or off, depending on what taste you want to achieve. If you remove all the grapes from the stalks you will end up with raisins or sultanas that are slightly more dry than those you can buy commercially.

If you leave the grapes on the stalks and dry them on the bunches, you will end up with a very yummy grape that is almost alcoholic in taste.

With apples they need to be peeled and cored, and then sliced into rings. Don’t worry about your apple rings turning brown. This is perfectly normal and is only a visual problem, not a problem with the drying process. The only reason why you see snow-white apple rings in commercial sales is because they have been heavily doused with sulphur-dioxide.

METHOD OF FRUIT DRYING:

Make sure that you only use the best fruit that has been tree-ripened. Discard any fruit that has been eaten or stung by insects. Any fruit that is overripe will not dry successfully.

Make sure that all drying racks are covered with your cloth of choice and place your fruit in a single layer, without touching on the racks. Cover again with your cloth if you are putting them outside.

If you are placing them in the oven, place on a single layer, without touching on your oven racks, without the cloth of course! Set your oven on its lowest setting.

It is quite possible that your fruit will take as long as 6 hours to dry if you are doing apples, and longer if you are doing apricots or peaches, even up to 24 hours for peaches. But if you are doing something small, like grapes, they won’t take very long at all. Leave the door open slightly if you can’t get the temperature down.

DRYING FRUIT & WHAT CAN GO WRONG:

Remember you want to dry your fruit, not cook them!

This is something to remember, even if you are drying fruit in the sun. If you expose the fruit to direct sunlight, they will cook, turn a dark colour and be quite ‘jammy’ in taste. Therefore any fruit dried outside should be shaded for best results.

This can be achieved with either a purpose-built dryer or you can modify a bookcase for your drying needs. We have plans for a food dryer here. Fruit Dryer Plans.

Allowing for plenty of air-circulation is important. If not, you will end up with mould on your fruit which will then have to be thrown away.

Finally, look out for insects and ants. Insects can lay eggs in the fruit while it is drying which will result in worms hatching at a later stage.

You can sort the ant problem out more readily by placing the legs of your dryer in containers of water on all four sides. Ants can’t swim and water will make it impossible for them to crawl to your fruit.

DRYING FRUIT: HOW DO I KNOW WHEN IT IS READY?

Slow fruit drying really is important for a good result, so don’t rush things. It can take days before your fruit dries, it really depends on the type of fruit you are drying and the water content of each. Some dry faster than others. So when you are drying it is best to place the same type of fruit on each rack, rather than mixing different types of fruit together.

You will know when you fruit is ready when most of the moisture has been removed. If you remove your fruit too early, it will spoil. Once you are happy with the state of your fruit let it cool down for several hours before storing it.

STORING YOUR DRYING FRUIT:

You can store your fruit in brown paper bags with the top loosely folded over. This allows the fruit to store without spoiling. You can also place them dark jar, stored in a dark place, but the lids should be loose, not tight. If you do place them in air-tight containers then the fruit has to be eaten fairly quickly.

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