Home gardening offers ways to trim grocery costs [Survival Today, an on going thread]

Dallas News.com ^ | March 14th, 2008 | DEAN FOSDICK

[nw_arizona_granny]

Americans finding soaring food prices hard to stomach can battle back by growing their own food. [Click image for a larger version] Dean Fosdick Dean Fosdick

Home vegetable gardens appear to be booming as a result of the twin movements to eat local and pinch pennies.

At the Southeastern Flower Show in Atlanta this winter, D. Landreth Seed Co. of New Freedom, Pa., sold three to four times more seed packets than last year, says Barb Melera, president. "This is the first time I've ever heard people say, 'I can grow this more cheaply than I can buy it in the supermarket.' That's a 180-degree turn from the norm."

Roger Doiron, a gardener and fresh-food advocate from Scarborough, Maine, said he turned $85 worth of seeds into more than six months of vegetables for his family of five.

A year later, he says, the family still had "several quarts of tomato sauce, bags of mixed vegetables and ice-cube trays of pesto in the freezer; 20 heads of garlic, a five-gallon crock of sauerkraut, more homegrown hot-pepper sauce than one family could comfortably eat in a year and three sorts of squash, which we make into soups, stews and bread."

[snipped]

She compares the current period of market uncertainty with that of the early- to mid-20th century when the concept of victory gardens became popular.

"A lot of companies during the world wars and the Great Depression era encouraged vegetable gardening as a way of addressing layoffs, reduced wages and such," she says. "Some companies, like U.S. Steel, made gardens available at the workplace. Railroads provided easements they'd rent to employees and others for gardening."

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://trees-seeds.com/seed.htm

The Angelgrove Tree Seed Company
- Seed Germination Guidelines -
Various Notes On Germinating Tree Seeds
Information on preparing tree seeds for successful germination.

“A beginner’s guide to tree seed germination, ‘seed dormancy’,
and an explanation of ‘stratification’ for improved
germination rates in tree seeds.”

This article is meant to acquaint first time propagators
with most of the general processes ‘woody plant’ seeds
undergo and encounter in the wild inorder to germinate.

(Keep your seeds stored cold and dry in your refrigerator until you are ready to proceed with them)

The Two Methods of Germination:

Germination Strategy 1. = Artificially pretreat & Sow.
Germination Strategy 2. = The Natural Method: Sow.

Some propagators will split their seeds into two piles and try both methods.

Introduction & terms

Pretreatment, Germination Strategy 1., dealing with dormancy.

Decide that you want to take a more direct hand in the germination process by forcing some break in the seed’s natural dormancy (if any) through a pretreatment process you apply before actually sowing the seed.

“Pretreatment” may mean no more then a water soak and for those seed species that have very little or absolutely no dormancy than a water soak is generally all that is needed after which the seeds can be sown in Spring/early Summer for immediate germination [providing that the pretreatment was effective]. (or they can be can be held dry, in their ziploks, in the refrigerator and sown in late Fall for germination the following Spring which properly falls under Germination Strategy 2. Nature’s Way. They can be soaked prior to Fall sowing but it generally isn’t needed as they will normally get all the moisture they will need out doors overwinter anyway.)

Dealing with Dormancy: Most tree species exhibit some seed dormancy.
Dormancy in seed species can be entirely absent or found to be generally one of two different forms of dormancy (embryonic or mechanical) or the seed type may characteristically exhibit both forms of dormancy.

In anycase when deciding that you do want to do some of your own ‘hands on’ seed pretreatment you will proceed to
scarify the seeds if warranted and soak them before beginning to stratify the seeds and thereafter sow them for a ‘forced’ germination.
*scarification (thinning, nicking, filing, sandpapering, or even subjecting the seed to repeated hot water soaks, or by slowly pouring near boiling water over them a few times..or any combination of these methods that may be sufficient to start the process of coat softening, coat rupture or coat break down)
* stratify (to store seeds in moist peat)

Embryo and mechanical dormancy:
However, with many tree seed species a pretreatment requiring a simple water soak is not in itself sufficient to overcome pronounced embryo dormancy and/or mechanical dormancy.
(*mechanical dormancy indicates a seed whose coat is very thick and or hard and/or impermeable and not readily able to soak up moisture or allow a developing embryo to expand inside its constrictive hard thick walls until such time as it breaks down somewhat or is helped to do so by the propagator using some form of scarification...- as such it can pay to help this kind of seed along a bit by scarifiying the seed coat - just don’t damage the white embryo when doing so).
[*embryo dormancy refers to the seed’s embryo requiring some form of trigger (usually cold moisture) inorder to make it respond.]
By the way; mechanical dormancy is not the same in all seed types, some can have a very thick but fairly soft coat susceptible to breaking down much faster than one whose coat is thinner but as hard as a rock while others can have very thick coats which are also rock hard...in the wild these different types will take longer or shorter amounts of time to break down depending on the conditions they get exposed to..

All that said the process of pretreating many species of tree seed and making it ready for germination is often no more than a simple three step operation involving a short period of cold stratification.

*Cold stratification: (the act of subjecting seeds to storage in a cold moist environment usually composed of mosit sterile peat for a length of time in order to overcome embryo dormancy.)

The majority of tree seed types usually have no more than a moderate embryo dormancy with slight mechanical dormancy requiring little or no scarification prior to soaking/cold stratifying. The simple act of soaking overnight will be sufficient to soften the coat.
____________________________________________________________________________________________

A quick simple three step process as used for Germination Strategy 1 - Artificial Pretreatment:

1. imbibe moisture, soak seeds 24-48 hours in room temperature water. (if you have a seed that has a coat that appears to be a little thick, stony or hard than as I have said it doesn’t hurt to attempt a little scarification = thinning/breaching of the coat prior to the soak - you can always cut open a couple of your seeds to get a better idea of what you are dealing with in terms fo coat thickness.)

2. cold stratify: thereafter subject the fully soaked seed (usually 24-48 hours is enough) to a cold moist period as closely resembling mild winter conditions as possible. (this is done by placing the seeds in a clean new baggie with clean throughly moistened shredded peat in your refrigerator; - more on this point later.) Seeds with light embryo dormancy will only require 4-6 weeks of cold stratification while seeds at the other end of the embryo dormancy scale will need 4-8 months cold stratification or longer.

3. sow: remove seed and sow in conducive conditions; (more on what actually amounts to “conducive conditions” later).
~~~~~~
Nature uses dormancy to improve it’s odds.

Embryo dormancy is Nature’s way of forcing the seed to only become susceptible to actual germination at a propitious time,..(namely early summer instead of late Fall going into winter.)

Seeds with mechanical dormancies (hard stony coat) are nature’s way of spreading its chances across a wider span of time and conditions...extra hard coated seeds will each, in the wild, generally soften up and break down at differing rates of speed (thereby allowing the next step of easier embryo expansion) due to differing circumstances each seed will find itself in (some may have ended up in mud...others in leaf mold, some in wet ground, some in dry ground, some only to get covered later, etc.).

Dealing with doubly dormant seeds - embryonic with mechanical.
Some seed types, particularly those with heavier mechanical dormancy and very deep embryo dormancy, tend to respond only after being subjected to an extended (or repeated) warm/cold seasonal cycle which can be artificially replicated by stratifying seeds in a warm stratification followed by a cold stratification. If you can help the seed along a bit by some effective scarification than the seeds may germinate after recieving only one cycle of warm strat./cold strat.. Effective scarification may also lessen the actual length of time needed for any warm stratification and help the chances of germination occuring after only one warm strat./cold strat. cycle. (when this type of seed is left to its own devices in the wild it generally won’t germinate until it has gone through 2 or 3 summer/winter/spring cycles allowing the seed coat to break down and the deep embryo dormancy to be finally overcome.)
* warm stratification is for all intents and purposes useful for advancing the softening of hard seed coats ...it is the same as cold stratification in all respects except one; you store the seeds/moist peat somewhere warm instead of cold for the recommended time.
(warm stratification is equivalent to the seed sitting in warm soil/mud/leaf mold prior to winter’s onset; ie: often a whole summer season).

{I have been germinating tree seeds for a long time now and still have many germinating only in the 3rd, and 4th years after sowing despite having given them what I thought would be effective/sufficient stratifications...these are often very deeply dormant seeds and/or with very thick/stony coats....often nature can’t be forced as much as might be hoped for.. the actual germinating conditions may have been less than stellar, and/or I wasn’t as effective in my pretreatment regime as I had thought...take your pick!)

Germination Strategy 2. - Nature’s Way

The Natural Method: Fall Sowing Seeds:

The late Fall sowing of seeds directly into a nursery bed or pot for eventual germination the following Spring(s) will naturally satisfy a seed’s requirement for just about any and all cold stratification (providing of course that the natural conditions in question are such that the needs of the dormant seed are actually met). (for areas of N. America where there is very little semblence of a winter, deeply dormant seeds should be cold stratified in your refrigerator).
Nature’s Method means you can forego the above outlined cold stratification in your refrigerator etc., as the overwintering of the seeds in the earth or a pot of potting soil out of doors (as long as the natural conditions are amenable/sufficient) can/will accomplish the same thing as refrigerator cold stratification .
Usually the results are as good (and sometimes better) as those resulting from seeds which have undergone an artificial cold stratification and is a widely practised means of germination by professionals -not to mention Mother Nature.
It goes without say that the springtime germinating conditions must be amenable/conducive too. Cold/wet springs aren’t great.

If you are dealing with seeds that are recommended as needing some warm stratification prior to cold stratification than they should be sown a month or two, or a few months earlier than late Fall. These seeds often have thick hard coats (mechanical dormancy) and the recommended extra time in warm stratification for them is meant to allow them time in a warm moist situation inorder for their coats to begin to break down (in some cases it also has an effect on the embryo). It doesn’t hurt to apply some scarification prior to Natural sowing this type of seed in mid Summer to early Fall as it will help the natural process along and likely lessen the length of time otherwise needed for effective warm stratification to have to occur.
(Depending on the species and variable depth/degree of dormancy and amount or lack of scarification applied, some seeds will sprout in the second and third Spring.)

We use both the artificial and the natural method and have no favourite really. If done right and you are lucky with seasonal conditions both are quite effective.

I’m in a rush ?:

Question: I have these seeds and the instructions say they need xxxxx amount of cold stratification, I want to
try the artificial germination strategy, can you tell me in a nutshell what should I do ?

Answer: “Get a bag of ‘sterile’ potting mix (usually shredded or milled peat) from your local garden center, - soak a handful or two of the peat in water and then squeeze out aproximately 95- 98% of the water, put the thoroughly but slightly moist peat in a new ziplok baggie, ....mix in the seeds (which you soaked overnight in room temp. water) ...mix the seeds up in the new baggie with the squeezed moist peat to ensure contact. .....Seal the baggie and put it in the bottom vegetable compartment of your refrigerator for the recommended xxxxx amount of time. After the recommended time take the seeds out and sow in a small clean pot of sterile potting soil (or nursery bed) to the recommended depth, tamp the soil down around the seed so it has good contact, put the pot somewhere warm (perhaps where it can get a few hours of early morning sun, but not Texas midday scorching sun), keep the pot only slightly moist, never wet, ... sit back and wait (often 2-8 weeks). ........................Thats the short answer.

Artificial Pretreatment - Cold Stratification - Germ. Strategy 1.

The pretreatment of seeds is a simple process you can undertake which will help speed up the “breaking” of a seed’s dormancy causing the seeds to be more susceptible to quicker more unified germination. By subjecting tree seeds to an artificial pretreatment you are providing them with the effect that Mother Nature would have had on them overtime if they had been left to their natural course out in the wild. However, by applying the pretreatment yourself in a controlled environment such as your refrigerator, you are in your own way speeding the process up and are also better able to control and diminish factors often detrimental to a seed’s survival had it been left to make it on its own in the wild. (ie: animal/insect predation etc.,)

The pretreatment or “stratification”of tree seeds is (in terms of lengths of time prescribed for the purpose) not an exact science due to the variability that is often found in the actual depth of dormancy in differing seed lots even of the same species. As well, the stratifying conditions as provided from one propagator to the next will never be exactly the same. As such recommended stratification times are provided as a rough guide only. If it is recommended that a particular species of tree seed should undergo a certain length of cold stratification, this only indicates that past experience has found that this species of seed’s “embryo and/or mechanical dormancy” has often been overcome by approximately this length of pretreatment and the seeds will be more susceptible to germination and will generally sprout in a quicker, more unified fashion as a result, providing conducive germinating conditions are supplied. (”more unified” = meaning they will germinate closely together rather than sporadically over a longer timeframe...when you get sporadic germination occurring it often means your pretreatment wasn’t as effective as it could have been or the germinating conditions you are providing are not as wonderful as you may think they are.)

An effective cold moist period triggers the seed’s embryo, the awakened embryo begins to absorb more moisture through what is often at this point a more softened seed coat, the seed’s embryo begins to swell and develop with its subsequent expansion eventually breaking through the deteriorated seed coat in its search for warmth, sun and nutrients.

***

What follows are some simple basics in sound horticultural practice where tree seed germination is concerned and is applicable in many respects to any type of seed germination, especially in respect to the benefits of sanitary practices employed in the handling of seeds and in the germination process.

Preparing your peat and seeds for cold or warm stratification :

Step 1:
After applying any scarification (if needed) soak the seeds in room temp. water for 24-48 hours than mix the seeds in a clean plastic ziplok or sealable baggie with thoroughly moistened sterile peat (or vermiculite or mixture of both - anything that is sterile and has the ability to act as a matrix that can wick moisture to the surface of the seed).

Seal the ziplok and place it in the bottom vegetable/fruit compartment of your refrigerator (not freezer) where the temperature usually hovers around 35-42 degrees fahr.(exact temperatures not overly critical).

* Use thirty or forty times the amount of moist sterile peat as tree seeds in the mixture. For instance if you have 2 or 3 small pea size seeds then a handful of peat may be enough - of course you can’t use too much peat -just don’t use too little.

* It is important to thoroughly but only slightly dampen the peat -the seeds must be in contact with the damp peat or during the stratification.

* Excessive moisture can cause seeds to mildew and grow moldy in the baggie-too little moisture is not effective.

* However, err on the side of a bit drier rather than wetter.

* To give you a better idea: -you should not be able to squeeze much more than a few drops of water out of a handful of peat after thoroughly and uniformly moistening it. (moisten the peat completely then squeeze it of excess water before adding it and the seeds mixed together to the baggie. Squeeze the seeds and moist peat together in a clump. Close and seal the baggie.) The use of a bit of horticultural fungicide mixed in with the water you use to moisten the peat can be quite effective in combatting the outbreak of any mold or bacteria in the peat/seed mixture if any bacterial contamination was/is present in the peat or on the seeds used. Go back every three to five weeks and open up your baggie and give the peat/seeds mix a quick spray or two of water (or the water/fungicide mixture you used to originally moisten the peat) in order to maintain enough moisture in the strat. baggie...the peat does have a tendency to dry down slightly over extended periods.

*After undergoing the recommended period of ‘cold stratification’ in your refrigerator the seeds are ready to be removed and sown. (Sometimes the seeds will begin to sprout while still in cold stratification.)
Preferably one should try to time the finish of the stratification process to occur roughly with Spring/Early Summer as this will allow you to sow at the beginning of early summer..
(Some people use sand in its entirety or as a levening agent in their stratification mixtures. We have never used it. If you do, make sure the sand is very clean. Personally, I like to use a mixture that can be relied upon to be sterile. One such product is known as “Pro-Mix” and is found widely available-any similar “Professional Mix” can be used. Any little bottle of horticultural fungicide is fine, mix according to directions on bottle.)

Points On Sterile and Sanitary Measures:

Many sources recommend using peat when cold stratifying seeds in the belief that peat is naturally highly sterile and pathogen free. This is true to some extent. However one should not use previously used peat or ‘soiless mixes’ because they are most definitely no longer sterile.
Using peat or ‘soiless mixes’ which have not be fully squeezed of excess moisture will often lead to an outbreak of fungus or mold growing on the seeds during stratification. Excessive mold/fungus, if left unchecked, can cause injury to the seeds and interfere with the stratification process.
Again, when using peat to stratify seeds, acquire a newly bought bag of clean and dry, milled or shredded peat, or the sterile potting mixture known as “ProMix” (or similiar). These products are cheap and commonly found in most garden centers. Do not use old or used peat from the garden. Usually the number one reason for the unrestricted growth of fungus, bacteria or mold during the stratification process is excessive moisture in the peat.

Optional Fungicide Use:
Because first timers and novices often do not fully appreciate the consequences of using contaminated potting soils when stratifying and/or germinating tree seeds, and/or keeping their potting soils too wet and/or cold during the actual sprouting phase, and/or overwatering seedlings, and/or not providing enough air circulation on and around emerging seedlings, the use of a horticultural fungicide is recommended during the entire stratification, germination and seedling stages (mix it in with your water when moistening your stratifying medium, potting soils, spritzing seedlings, etc..)
Using a horticultural fungicide will help combat any fungus or mold/bacteria outbreaks if you make any of the above mentioned mistakes.
A liquid horticultural fungicide known as “NO-DAMP” (or any similar horticultural fungicide) can be used. It is inexpensive, is usually available in small bottles and can usually be found at most nursery or garden centers-(just mix it up in a spray or spritzer bottle according to the mixing instructions. If you can steer clear of making the above mentioned mistakes than the need for a fungicide is reduced.)

Very Important Tip: A seedling cannot and does not need or use a lot of water, it therefore does not need to be sitting in sopping wet soil or even wet soil, the soil should only be kept slightly moist, in a warm situation where air movement on and around the pot and seedling is fair to brisk, and the pot and seedling is not frying in the midday Summer sun. This seedling care instruction is perhaps the most important tip a novice can get as it is where most make their mistakes. Do not disregard it!

You may find it easiest to thoroughly moisten your stratifying medium (peat and/or vermiculite mix) by applying either the straight water or a fungicide/water mixture to the ‘medium’ by using a spray/spritzer bottle. (If you use a horticultural fungicide than just follow the mixing instructions found on the bottle and mix it in with your water in your spritzer bottle). Keep spraying and mixing the peat until you have gotten the mositure consistency needed

If you are pretreating many seeds (hundreds) you should spread your seeds/stratification mixture into a few different baggies rather than putting them all into one baggie-that way if you do have a fungus outbreak it may be restricted to just one baggie of seeds.
If you forego the use of fungicide and just use water to moisten your peat than keep a closer check on them.

If you do eventually have an outbreak of mold or fungus, it is not a calamity, ...simply remove the tree seeds from the peat and wash them thoroughly with some dish soap and rinse ( I would thoroughly wash and rinse twice...use hottish water) and/or after washing the seeds you can respray them with your fungicide/water mix (so as to kill the mold/bacteria), using a fungicide/water mix is better than just using soap and water given the choice; place the seeds back in
a new baggie with new moistened peat. Do not re-use any of the old materials.
Always keep the ziplok baggie sealed otherwise the medium will dry out quicker than you may think..an opened baggie will also allow pathogens to enter.

The occurance of a little bit of mildew and/or fungus is not a problem and is often in evidence-however if it becomes aggressive and unrestricted in its growth than take the necessary measures outlined above.

Again, remember that it doesn’t hurt to give the seeds/peat mixture a spray of moisture once or twice part way through the storage period especially if the mixture appears to have dried up a little which does seem to happen. Remember, -the seeds do need moisture and must be in contact with moist peat during the storage. You can take the stratification baggie out now and then and shake the mixture up to change contact areas between seeds and moist peat.
It is a good idea to check your stratifying seeds on a regular basis for either fungus or germination. If any tree seeds begin to germinate during the cold stratification storage simply remove them and sow. (sow them just below the surface as you would normally. If it too cold to put them out of doors then sow them in a small pot and keep it somewhere warm where air is in circulation and they can get some early morning light)

When To Start The Seed Stratification Process:
While the actual amount of time it takes to stratify tree seeds with good effect varies from specie to specie and often from seed lot to seed lot-one should try to begin the stratification process so that ideally the end of the pretreatment coincides with the beginning of your late Spring/early Summer. The stratified seeds are ideally sown a short while after the beginning of warmer weather and the earth has warmed up considerably. You should not sow too early as the ground is still cold and does not make for a happy pretreated seed. This holds true for stratified seeds sown in pots out of doors which is our own most used method.
Seed germination is enhanced considerably when the pretreated seed is sown in a warm moist (not wet) situation.

Tips On Sowing and Seedlings:
Once the seeds are finished stratifiaction, remove them from the peat (and throw away the peat) and give them a good spray or wash of your fungicide/water mixture particularly if any mold or mildew is evidence. You can also give the hole you are planting the seeds into a contact spray as well with fungicide/water mix. If you are dealing with very small seeds you can sow 2-3 seeds per hole.

All seedlings, whether grown in pots or beds benefit from good air circulation which wards off bacteria and/or mold/fungus growth. Strong air circulation also promotes sturdy thicker stems in seedlings. Again, if the potting soil is too wet and/or cold, the seeds can either rot in the soil, or if they make it to seedling stage bacteria can and may attack the stem at its most vulnerable point where it enters the soil (where bacteria is often most prominent in poor conditions)- the seedling will choke/rot at that stem point and eventually fall over. This outcome is known as “damping off”. Too cold, too wet, little or no air circulation and bacteria all add up to produce this outcome.
Conditions conducive to promoting good germination are the exact opposite of “damping off” conditions; you want to have good air circulation and the pot should be kept where it is in or subjected to a warm situation during the day and only slightly moist. The seeds need to have warmth in the daytime.(ideally the nightime has warmed up considerably as well)..seeds can’t be expected to germinate if they are continually subjected to cool wet conditions.
Furthermore while the soil is kept moist...its upper 2-3 inches should not be allowed to dry out to the point where it is completely absent of any moisture whatsoever.

*For the most part we find common comercially available sterile potting soils (often referred to as “soiless mixes”) to be adequate. Soil should be tamped down around the seed so that they are in good contact with soil and able to wick moisture from the soil.
Using a potting soil which is described as being sterile (”PRO-MIX” or similiar) to sprout your seeds in will aid you against possible problems with “stem rot” and “damping off”:
Because ‘damping off’ problems are much more likely to occur if air circulation is poor, letting your seeds and seedlings germinate and grow outdoors in the wind and sun warmed earth is often advantagious. If you feel your earth is still pretty cool getting the pots up on something that is warmed by the sun can help...like your deck or stone wall, etc.,
While in no way necessary if you have a cold frame or green house they can be used to advantage.

Some partial, screened or light shade is beneficial for seedlings as they are susceptible when young to withering and damage from unremitting strong or direct midday sun. Japanese Maples (and most maples) for instance are particularly sensitive and should be grown out in good dappled or screened shade. As they get older their sensitivity to direct midday sunlight is lessened.
Providing some dappled, or lightly screened shade will also protect your seed bed from “frying’ in the extremes of the sun as well.

Protecting The Seed Bed: Unprotected Seed Beds and Pots.
Most tree seeds need only be planted 1/4 to a 1/2 inch deep (depending on size) in order to germinate (exact depth is not exceptionally critical). If you plan on planting your seeds outdoors open to rain in a nursery bed, or garden nook bed or pot then plant them a little deeper to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch because the disturbance caused by heavy rainfall has a strong tendency to turn the seeds up. Keep a check on the seeds and push them back in if they do come up. This is very important..if they get turned up and then fried/dried out from the sun the next day your progress will have been retarded if not destroyed.

Where seeds may be sown in the Fall for natural germination the following Spring you should lightly mulch your seed bed as it provides protection against heavy rains turning the seeds up in the winter... you should remember to lighten or remove completely all the mulch cover in the Spring, -if any seedlings are seen breaking through the soil’s surface remove all mulch entirely if any has been left on.

When to Sow/Germinate?
We are often asked: “When is the best time to germinate seeds?” Of course the best time for seeds to actually germinate is in Spring/Early Summer as then they have the whole summer to grow on. That being said, we often have many seeds that end up being sown and germinating right up into late Summer with no problem: (In anycase you will find that tree seeds often have a timetable of their own no matter what you do).
If you live in colder zones, it can help to pile leaves or straw around first and second year seedlings to give them a little winter and wind protection. Shelter seedlings from prevailing winds, etc. Seedlings in pots can be allowed to go dormant and thereafter stored in a cold shed or garage to over winter.
If you intend to germinate naturally those seeds recommended as needing only cold stratification, than sow your seeds in the late Fall-approximately the time around and before frosts are starting to occur-there are no exact times for this but warm weather should be over. (You can also give the seeds an overnight soak before sowing if you are in areas where drought occurs in the fall)

Another query we often get is:, “Can I start my seeds and grow the seedlings indoors? over the winter?”. This can be done provided your light source is sufficient (very strong!) and you subject the seedlings to strong air circulation (use a fan). If the seedlings do not get both of these requirements they will exhibit spindly growth and will have a difficult time when eventually transplanted to the garden.
It is during the seedling stage that the need for strong air circulation is greatest for the prevention of stem rot etc.,-once they have passed the immediate seedling stage than strong air circulation is not as important but will always enhance stem/trunk girth.

**Quite often seeds recommended as needing only a short (4-6 or 8 weeks) cold stratification will germinate sporadically after receiving only a water soak before sowing-however the germination rate cannot be relied upon to be as initially high, even or unified as the rate of those that receive the recommended short length of cold stratification.

How Long Does it Take For The Seeds To Germinate After Sowing?
This differs from seed to seed, specie to specie, and most particularly on how good the conditions are during the germinating phase (soil warmth, temperature variations, amount of moisture in the soil, etc.) and is dependant on how effective any pretreatment may have actually been prior to sowing-that being said it usually ranges between 2 or 3 to 8 weeks, late stragglers are common as are “hold outs” to the following Spring. If pretreatment was not sufficient or effective enough to break dormancy, some or all seeds can “hold out” until the following Spring. Don’t give up on them. We have seedlings popping up here as late as five years after sowing. Its a good idea to mark any spots where you may have poked seeds down so you don’t forget where they are or disturb them later.

Fertilization Of Seedlings:
Simple rule of thumb! Don’t over do it. If the seedlings - trees are growing in a rich soil with sufficient finished organic matter mixed in than they really won’t need it-otherwise once a month with a light dose of any balanced fertilizer is fine. Don’t fertilize late in the season or your trees will go into winter with “soft” growth which is susceptible to damage. You need only fertilize when the soil has warmed up.

Garden Products
The best place to buy fertilizers, tools and needed garden accessories is at your local garden center or nursery where you can support your local economy and also be able to purchase well known major brands that were manufactured in North America and thereby be sure of how the product was made and correctly manufactured with quality ingredients instead of fertilizers that have been remixed and than re-labeled somewhere along the line. The same holds true for ‘re-labeled’ and/or ‘no-name brand’ discount type garden tools/implements with the possibility of them having been imported from cheap labour/forced labour regimes with poor human rights records/child labour issues). Steer clear of so-called species “specific” fertilizers, “speciality” bio-chemical additives and other similar items for ammending soils etc., they are unnecessary “retail gimmicks”. A simple balanced fertilizer, if needed, will always be sufficient. The best way to ammend/improve soils for better roots, water retention etc., as many will know is to simply turn in liberal amounts of finished organic matter, including some lesser amounts of bone meal, clean sand and friable earth.
If you start out with or continually build a rich soil using these components you won’t really need fertilizers in anycase.
If you are in water logged areas get your tree up on a mound to shed water better.
The best place to get books on gardening is at your local library (and/or University extension library service)...their catalog is always huge and the books are free after all.

A Few Key Points:
Seed germination is a bit of an art and a green thumb and experience can help.
Pretreated seeds like moist warm situations for germinating-not wet or sopping wet cold situations.
You will quite often find some batches of seeds sprouting before you expected and some later than expected.
Be patient when cold stratifying seeds-give them the recommended time and a bit more for good measure.
Always use clean/new potting soils and pots.
Don’t over water your seeds or seedlings! Watering from the bottom where flats or low pots in trays are or can be used for germination is effective as it can ameliorate overly wet soil surfaces that can be caused by watering from the top..
Remember that pots need more frequent waterings then nursery beds as they dry out quicker.
Terra cotta pots should be soaked before using.
Give your seedlings half/quarter shade from the sun - many deciduous types cannot handle full sun when seedlings.
You don’t have to artificially cold stratify if you don’t want to! Sow them in the Fall in a mulched bed or garden nook for natural germination the following Spring(s). (remember to mulch for protection from disturbance)
Don’t give up on any seeds that you planted but did not germinate immediately-this is a frequent outcome and they will more often then not come up in the next Spring-they usually just need more time to overcome their dormancy.
Plant as many Lilac & Rose seeds as you can-your nose will really be glad you did when you sit in your garden in the evenings later on down the road! :)
Take a walk in your City Park in the Fall and gather tree & shrub seeds for free-you will likely be amazed at how many old and wonderful species your City Parks probably have! (City Hall usually has a tree species map too, with each tree wearing an identifying numbered metal tag.)
(Wait until the seeds have fully formed/filled out before you harvest.)

Storing Seeds For Later Usage

When storing seeds for sowing or stratification at some later date be sure to store them as they are in their sealed plastic ziploks so as to keep them air tight and dry and place in your refrigerator to keep cold. Many species of tree seeds can be maintained in viable condition this way for a number of years provided they were prepared correctly to begin with (as in correctly “banked”).

**Trees are usually quite forgiving when it comes to what kind of soil they will tolerate. However they don’t do well in soils that are at one extreme or the other in terms of composition (too much sand or too much clay) or extreme PH or especially constantly water logged, so steer clear of planting in really wet areas. If your transplant spot is on the wet side get the tree up on a mound. Try to amend your soils when possible with organic matter. Do not plant seedlings too deep if or when you decide to transplant them to a final spot-what ever root depth they had going while in the nursery pot should be maintained when they are moved if not raised a little bit higher.

Further Reading Material:
“Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices” by Hartmann & Kester.
“The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation” by Michael Dirr.

FINALLY:
When trying to understand what tree seeds need inorder to germinate you should consider what really happens with tree seeds in their natural state with great success, which is this: The seeds mature on the tree, drop off to the ground, probably sit in the rain for a bit before eventually blowing away into a corner somewhere in the fall of the year where they get slightly covered with disintegrating leaves, a bit of silt mud and soil and they sit there, over winter in moist soil, absorbing moisture and getting really cold (often frozen), eventually the sun returns in the Spring and warms the soil, warm Spring rains come, they absorb more moisture, they are sitting in warm moist soil, they begin to swell and then sprout-some or all of the seeds take two seasons or more to do it if the conditions are slightly less then optimum.
If you can supply and replicate these conditions your chances of success are considerably enhanced.
A great many seeds in nature never get exposed to optimum conditions (too much or too little of one or more needed components) and they don’t germinate. Quite often they get what they need over 2-3 seasons and finally germinate.
We have been propagating seeds for many years and still have seeds popping up only in the third year. (or sporadically across 1-3 seasons)
Some seeds will end up sitting in soils that stay too dry or too wet/too cold and will rot and fail.

If you have any questions regarding the germination process please email us at:
angelgrove@nf.sympatico.ca
The Angelgrove Tree Seed Company (c.1993)

Trees grow remarkably fast from seedlings. Seedlings will often catch up to and surpass 3, 4 and 5 year old grafted clones, so that by age 10 or 12 the seedling is quite often a much bigger and more vigorous healthy tree.
We have seen quite a few sorry looking re-potted pot bound and/or poorly grafted expensive store bought 3 and 4 year old clones sit and do nothing for many years on end after being brought home and transplanted with the tree trying to grow back into its butchered roots and/or get over a transplant shock, and/or deal with a poor graft. The seedling, having never hit a growth set back grows vigourously from the start.
When a transplanted 3 - 5 year old tree is subjected to a shock set back for what ever reason it can often take quite a few years for it to really get going again.

Click Here For:

The Angelgrove Tree Seed Company

The Angelgrove Tree Seed Company
P.O. Box 74, Riverhead,
Harbour Grace, NL
Canada A0A 3P0

[Has wild rose seeds: http://trees-seeds.com/

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

Granny, can you give me the URL to the latest terror thread again? I don’t think it would hurt to have it on this thread. I want to post what I found last night here and on that thread. It is completely shocking and I believe an important preview of what our economic situation could become.

The background of the posts is this: the government of Argentina allowed the public treasury to assume debt incurred (possibly in fraudulent transactions) by private companies. Sound familiar? When the debt became too burdensome, Argentina defaulted. Overnight, the Argentine peso lost two thirds of its value (33 cents instead of one US dollar). The money supply collapsed. If you had $2000 in the bank, then the bank decided (i’m sure with the concurrence of the government) that you actually had only $666 pesos, not $2000. The author insists that the banks (perhaps it was also the Argentine treasury, or the IMF, or someone else, in addition to the banks) stole 2/3 of the deposited money. I suppose that could be debated. With runs on the banks, no one gets all their money back immediately. Eventually some of the accounts were settled, but there was a huge cash flow problem. People lost their jobs, crime skyrocketed, goods in the stores disappeared, mobs began to riot and loot with abandon, and no one was safe any more.

I urge everyone to read this account. Especially pay attention to the beginning where he describes the “pyramid” analogy. It will help you understand what follows. It may portray our future:

http://www.rapidtrends.com/blog/surving-argentinas-economic-collapse-part-1-3/

http://www.rapidtrends.com/blog/surving-argentinas-economic-collapse-part-2-3/

http://www.rapidtrends.com/blog/surving-argentinas-economic-collapse-part-3-3/

The author calls himself Ferfel.

His ongoing blog is here:

http://ferfal.blogspot.com/

He has posted a series of videos here, describing the history of Argentina’s descent into chaos and poverty:

http://ferfal.blogspot.com/2008/07/video-worth-watching-argentinas.html

As he says, the videos are written and presented from a leftist point of view, but worth watching to see the result of the devaluation. This happened in 2001 and was a watershed date for the country. Everyone refers to “before 1:1” or “since 2001.” They universally hate the International Monetary Fund.

A couple more videos I found, I have not reviewed them so I don’t know if they are tin-foil hat material:

http://www.anglofareast.com/crash_course.php

http://www.iousathemovie.com/?lk=7659286-7659286-0-34076-fcXszkyoaFuEeycRQu5oKhzRvYTkf764

Thank you BananaSlug.com!!

[nw_arizona_granny]

Gardening links of all kinds, for info and sales, excellent list:

http://www.trees-seeds.com/links.htm

Welcome to H2ow.com:
Do-it-yourself Greenhouse Plans, House Plans and DIY How-to Information. [Many topics and links..plans, how to..excellent...granny]

http://h2othouse.com/index.html

So sit back, relax, get a cup of tea (or coffee!) and get ready to find out everything you ever wanted to know (and some things you never thought of before) about herbs and herb gardens, flowers, organic gardening, natural crafts, herbs in the kitchen and home decorating.

http://www.herbalgardens.com/

The Best of Home Gardening

http://www.geocities.com/homegardener/

Plant Care for Indoor House Plants

http://www.plantcare.com/

garden,info,how to

http://www.doctorgreenfingers.co.uk/

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

Now if we could train the young to dig into the corners and make a meal from the what is on hand.

My daughter messaged me yesterday asking what to put in her make-shift stew. I suggested rice, pasta, leftover veggies, miso (I knew she didn't know what it was, I just wanted to pique her interest), bits of chicken/turkey, beans (hmm, refried beans would have been a good suggestion too). She hadn't thought of the rice but the other stuff she had covered. She was using a freezer-burned T-bone steak to start the stew, and had already tossed the meat into the pot. I told her next time to cook the meat in a little olive oil or grapeseed oil and then deglaze the pan with some wine. She said she'd do that.

I do miss stew. Maybe I could start one with some prepared tempeh cooked in grapeseed oil, garlic and onions, deglazed with red wine. I may try that, and thicken the gravy with cornstarch or arrowroot. Yum!

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/herb-drinks.html

Herbal Drinks
.

Many herbs can be used in beverages for a healthful and refreshing drink. Flavors range from spicey sweet to tangy and fresh. Try them all and try making your own recipes too! We would love to include them here. Email us with your creations.

* Rosemary Lemonade
* Rosemary Punch
* Chamomile-Peppermint Tea
* Mint Ice Tea
* Herbal Tea

---

Mint Ice Tea

Ingredients:

minted ice cubes

Black tea

fresh mint leaves

sugar to taste

To make the minted ice cubes, fill ice cube trays partially with water and freeze. Set mint leaves on top, fill with more water and freeze solid. Brew double strength tea and steep, while hot with 2 bunches of fresh mint. When cool, strain out mint and sweeten to taste, chill.

In the original story of “Sleeping Beauty,” the young woman was revived from her slumber with a whiff of rosemary-scented water. This potent herb can revive sluggish summer appetites just as well.

---

Rosemary Lemonade

One and a half cups water

One and a half cups sugar

One and a half cups lemon juice

Grated rind of one lemon

Two sprigs of rosemary

Ice cubes

Cold water or club soda

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Boil the liquid three minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice, lemon rind and rosemary. Refrigerate at least one hour or until very cold. Strain the mixture into a storage container.

When you want some lemonade, place 5 to 6 ice cubes in a drinking glass. Fill the glass about a third full with the lemon syrup, add water or club soda to the top of the glass, stir and drink. Makes about 3 cups.

---

Chamomile Peppermint Tea

Ingredients:

1/2 cup dried chamomile flowers

1/2 cup dried calendula petals

2 tablespoons grated lemon peel

1/4 cup dried peppermint

1 tablespoon whole cloves

honey to taste

Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container. To brew use 1 1/2 tsp. of tea with 1 cup (8 ounces) boiling water. Steep for 3-5 minutes. Strain and sweeten with honey to taste.

Recipe provided by Karen Lee Hegre of the Windowsill Garden Discussion Group

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/creamy-herb-sauce.html

Creamy Herb Sauce

Serve with simply cooked seafood.

INGREDIENTS

1 carton (8 oz.) lowfat sour cream

1/4 cup reduced-calorie mayonnaise or plain low-fat yogurt

1/4 cup fresh parsley sprigs (firmly packed)

1 Tbsp. fresh minced dill, or 2 tsp. dried

1 tsp. fresh minced tarragon, or 1/2 tsp. dried

Salt and pepper

1/4 cup capers, drained

Directions:

Place all the ingredients, except the capers, in the work bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Stir in the capers and transfer to a serving bowl. Cover and chill for up to 2 days. Makes about 1 1/4 cups.

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

This is really good information. I'd still just jump into making bread by hand using a standard white bread recipe, but when trying to perfect your bread this is good to know.

I gave up on my bread maker after it failed two times to make a scratch recipe. It only worked on mixes. I finally realized (after I gave it away) that my old trick of using non-fresh yeast probably was the the problem, but I never did buy another bread maker.

I mentioned it to my husband but he was lukewarm. He wants to buy a juicer (me: whatever...)

We don't eat a lot of bread these days, but maybe I could get him interested if I made bread every weekend or something. After three or four loaves of homemade bread he might change his mind. And then I might get him to think seriously about a KitchenAid mixer, too. My old Oster probably won't cut it.

He wants to convert to raw foods but I am not sold on the idea yet. I know he's trying to preserve my health. I guess we'll see...

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/herb-vinegar.html

Herbal Oils and Vinegars

Herb Flavored Oil

2 cups extra virgin olive oil, warmed on the stove

4 sprigs fresh oregano

4 sprigs fresh basil

4 sprigs fresh thyme

2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns

2 Tbsp. crushed dried red pepper

Wash the herbs and dry thoroughly. Place the herbs, peppercorns, and red pepper and oil in a heavy saucepan and heat to a simmer, reduce heat slightly and cook just below simmering for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through several layers of cheesecloth into sterilized glass jars. Store in the refrigerator at all times and use within one week. *Approved preparation methods

Italiano Oil

Drizzle over warm foccacia bread.

1/4 cup chopped fresh sweet basil

1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano

a sprig of rosemary

1 1/2 cups olive or canola oil

Follow instructions for approved methods.

Garlic Basil Vinegar

1 head of garlic

2 cups fresh basil leaves

4 cups red wine vinegar

Separate the garlic head into individual cloves. Crush the cloves slightly with the flat side of a knife and peel them. Wash the basil leaves and pat dry. Place the basil and garlic in a 2-quart or larger sealable glass jar. Pour the vinegar over the garlic and basil, cover, and store in a cool dark place for 2 weeks. Strain through a cheese cloth or coffee filter into clean glass jars or bottles. You can add a whole garlic clove or two to each bottle before closing.

Lemon Thyme Vinegar

With a vegetable peeler, pare a thin spiral strip of peel 6 to 8 inches long from a lemon. With a chopstick or wooden skewer, push lemon peel and 6 rinsed sprigs (each 3 in. long) fresh thyme into a clean 12- to 16-ounce bottle. Fill bottle with white wine vinegar (vinegar should cover herbs completely) and seal. Store in a cool, dark place at least 1 week or up to 4 months.

*NOTE:

You may want to check with your local Extension Service Representative and ask what the current recommendations are for safely making and storing flavored oils. Health organizations are recommending that homemade flavored oils always be refrigerated and should be used with in 2 to 3 days if using the cold infusion method or within 1 week for the warm infusion and 1 month for the oven method.

Cold Infusion Method: Combine herbs and oil. Pureed herbs disperse their flavor more quickly but are not as aesthetically pleasing. Use with in 2 to 3 days. Store in the refrigerator at all times.

Warm Infusion Method: In a saucepan, combine herbs and oil. Heat to a simmer, reduce heat slightly and cook just below simmering for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through several layers of cheesecloth into a sterilized glass jar.

Label with the date and refrigeration instructions. Store in the refrigerator at all times. Use with in 1 week. Makes approximately 1 cup (250 mL).

Oven Method: Place oil and chopped vegetable or herb in a 2 cup (500 mL) glass measuring cup. Set glass measuring cup on a pie plate and place in a 300°F (150°C) oven for 1 hour. At the end of heating, the vegetable pieces should be a medium brown colour and crisp. If not, continue baking until they turn brown. Remove cup to a rack to cool for 30 minutes. Line a small strainer with a coffee filter or several layers of cheesecloth. Strain oil into a clean glass jar, cover and store in refrigerator at all times. Use within a month. Makes 1 cup (250 mL).

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/honey-herb.html

Honey Herb Sauce

Use this tasty sweet sauce on vegetables.

Makes about 2/3 cup.

1/4 cup honey

2 tbsp. onion, minced

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1/2 tsp. thyme, crushed

salt end pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil; cook 2 minutes. Toss with vegetables of choice such as: peas, zucchini, spinach, broccoli, green beans, etc. Serve over couscous as a vegetarian entree or alone as a side dish.

This recipe provided by Honey.com

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/herb-dressing.html

Fresh Herb Dressing

Mix 1/2 cup salad oil, 4 tbsp. vinegar, 1/4 tsp. salt, dash cayenne,1/8 tsp. pepper and 1 tbsp. each of the following fresh minced herbs: parsley, basil, chervil, oregano.

This dressing is especially good over fresh asparagus!

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

Hey Granny, I found some organic tomatoes at Von’s last night (I was delighted to find them there, the store is on the road home from work going up to the lake!). I bought a strange looking heirloom tomato to taste, and if it is good, I will save the seeds and see if I can germinate them. What do you think? I figure it’s a minimal investment. Are tomato plants hard to grow from seed?

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/herb-marinades.html

Herb and Oil Marinade

Juice and rind of 1 orange

1/4 c Lemon juice

1/4 c Vegetable oil

1/2 ts Ginger

1/2 ts Sage

Clove of garlic, minced

Freshly ground pepper

Combine ingredients. Allow meat to marinate in shallow glass dish for 4 hours in refrigerator. Baste with marinade during broiling or barbequing.

---

Herb Marinade for Vegetable Kabobs

3/4 c Olive oil

1/4 c White vinegar or lemon juice

2 Garlic cloves, minced

1 ts Dijon mustard

1/2 ts Basil

1/2 ts Oregano

1/2 ts Marjoram

1/2 ts Rosemary

1/4 ts Pepper

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Makes one cup.

---

Garlic Herb Marinade

Ingredients:

1/3 cup water

1/3 cup vinegar

1/3 cup vegetable oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried Italian-style seasoning

1 teaspoon poultry seasoning

1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Instructions:

In a medium bowl, combine the water, vinegar, oil, garlic, thyme, Italian-style seasoning, poultry seasoning, rosemary, salt and ground black pepper. Mix well and apply to your favorite meat.

---

Honey Dijon Herb Marinade

Ingredients:

1 cup dry white wine

1/8 cup white Worcestershire sauce

1 large garlic clove — crushed

1 bay leaf

1 pinch white pepper

1/8 cup honey

1/4 cup dijon mustard

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

Mix all ingredients and use immediately.

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

Interesting article, the above jumped at me, as I have warped thoughts on some of these ‘new’ diseases.

I think I know what you mean and your thoughts are not unwarranted. Everyone knows that various governments are working on germ warfare. ‘Accidents’ happen, too. Or maybe they are trials. It's hard to know what’s real these days and what’s a smokescreen.

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/herb-desserts.html

Rosemary Tea Bread

Ingredients:

2 Cups water
2 Eggs
1 Cup Raisins
4 Cups Flour
1 Tbl. crushed fresh Rosemary
2 Tea. Baking Powder
1/4 Lb. Butter
1 Tea. Vanilla
2 Cups Sugar

Instructions:

Combine first three ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook 2 minutes, stirring. Cool. Cream butter and sugar, add eggs and vanilla. Stir in raisin mixture alternately with flour.

Fill six well-oiled soup cans 2/3 full. Place cans on a cookie sheet and bake at 350 degrees for 2 hours or until done. Cool slightly before removing bread from cans.

---

Lemon Verbena Cake

Ingredients:

1 2/3 Cup Sugar

1 cup Butter Flavored Crisco

1 cup cake flour

5 large eggs

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 drops lemon extract

1/4 cup fresh chopped lemon verbena leaves -or- 2 Tablespoons crushed dry leaves

Cut melon into 6 wedges (top to bottom) and cut off rind. Place in large plastic container with lid along with juice and gin. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours, turning over container from time to time to coat all slices. When ready to serve, slice each wedge into 4 to 5 thin slices and arrange as a fan on the plate. Drizzle remaining marinade over slices and garnish with lemon zest and mint. Place a small serving of Lime-Basil Sorbet on top or beside, if you wish.

Instructions:

Cream together the sugar and crisco until well mixed. Add the eggs 1 at a time, mixing for one minute after each. Add dry ingredients gradually, scraping down the sides. Add the flavoring, and the verbena leaves. Pour into a Bundt pan, which is well coated with the shortening and floured.

Bake at 325 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until golden brown (test with a toothpick). Remove, set on a cooling rack for 15 minutes, turn over onto plate.

---

Marinated Melon with Lime Basil Sorbet

1 honeydew melon, ripe

1 lime, juiced

2 tablespoons gin

Lemon zest

Chopped mint

Cut melon into 6 wedges (top to bottom) and cut off rind. Place in large plastic container with lid along with juice and gin. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours, turning over container from time to time to coat all slices. When ready to serve, slice each wedge into 4 to 5 thin slices and arrange as a fan on the plate. Drizzle remaining marinade over slices and garnish with lemon zest and mint. Place a small serving of Lime-Basil Sorbet on top or beside, if you wish.

FRESH LIME-BASIL SORBET

1 cup fresh squeezed lime juice (8 to 10 limes)

1 cup water

1 cup simple sugar syrup (1 cup sugar plus 1 cup water, boiled then cooled)

12 whole basil leaves

1 egg white (optional)

Combine all ingredients, except egg white, into a freezer friendly container and freeze 6 to 8 hours or overnight.

Remove from freezer and allow to soften a little. Put chunks of frozen mixture into a food processor and process until all crystals have disappeared and mixture is smooth. Re-pack into container and keep frozen until needed. This will keep for up to 2 months. If you prefer a lighter, less icy sorbet, add 1 egg white during processing. Yield: 4 Servings

Yield: 6 servings

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 6 hours

Recipe courtesy Lakewinds Country Manor, Toronto

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

http://www.safetycentral.com/eccolsurguid.html

Economic Collapse Survival Guide

Courtesy Of Safety Central

REDUCE YOUR DEBT: Reducing ones debt to as close to zero as possible is essential. That may involve selling off some of your real estate investment, moving to a smaller home, refinancing your home mortgage to a 15-year loan, and eliminating your credit cards. Stop paying interest.

Do not be dependent on the government for your well-being. Try an be as independents and self reliant as possible for your income.

Take control of your own finances. Read many alternate sources of information. Do your homework. Be careful to understand what is going on. Avoid states of denial. Become as independent as possible.

Make yourself save as much as you can. Most people live above their means. Learn to live below your means. If you save a minimum of 10% per month, you can grow your wealth very safely. Some can save 20%-25%.

Diversify your investments, include investing in Swiss money instruments,gold, different currencies.

Avoid weak financial institutions. Get out of harm’s way. Many banks, brokerage house, S& Ls and insurance companies are tottering on the brink of disaster or close to it in the event of a market downturn. And in spite of the perception to the contrary, there is no substantive insurance safety net under these institutions.

Avoid popular investment markets. There are few goof opportunities for conservative investors. Stocks are overvalued. If you own stocks have stops in place. Corporate bonds are vulnerable and will drop as U.S. interest rates rise. Be very selective in investment real estate. Commodities are out of favor and at bargain prices. All things are cyclical and go from being under valued to over valued.

Find investment safe havens. The three best and most conservative investments to put your money into over the next few years are gold and silver, foreign government bond funds, and U.S Treasury bill money market funds. Don’t announce to the world what you are doing; keep a low profile.

Legally bulletproof your business and personal matters. America is the most litigious country in the world, with 700,000 lawyers and 187 million new civil lawsuits per year. Every doctor, professional business person or business owner has a nightmare about being sued into ruin.

Change your mindset about the news, about investments and about your financial security. To survive the coming hard times, you must change the way you do things, the way you think, and the way you invest. You must read between the lines in today’s news reports ... find alternative investments and financial institutions ...and plan for the future.

Purchase a one-year food supply from Safety Central and have a large water source, such as 55 gallon water barrels sold by Safety Central. Own tangible assets or commodities that can be bartered or traded.

Buy real estate in a small town or rural community that can serve as a retreat or place of refuge.

---

Well they have a product to sell, so you can take what they say with a grain of salt. But much of this information is the same as others are recommending.
10th

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/herb-lamb.html

Balsamic Herb Lamb Chops

Ingredients

10 lamb rib chops

1/2 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon dried oregano

salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

Place lamb chops in a shallow baking dish. Combine olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic, rosemary, mustard, oregano, salt and pepper and pour over chops. Toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Preheat grill. Grill chops over a medium high heat for about 5 minutes per side on until browned to desired doneness.

---

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/herb-crusted-chicken.html

Herb Crusted Chicken

Ingredients

1 Large roasting chicken

1 cup Italian parsley leaves, stems removed

1 cup Basil leaves, torn

1/4 cup Chives, cut 1/2” long

1/2 cup Chervil sprigs

1/4 cup Tarragon leaves

1/4 cup Virgin olive oil

1 clove Garlic, sliced thinly

2 Shallots, walnut sized, peeled and sliced

1 Tbl. Virgin olive oil

1/4 Lemon, juiced

1 Tbl. Grated Parmesan cheese

Preparation

Prepare the salad and marinade

Combine all of the herbs in a bowl and toss together well. Remove 1-1/2 cups to a separate bowl and reserve, covered with a damp towel in the refrigerator, for garnish. Combine the remaining herbs with the garlic, shallots and olive oil and puree in a blender until smooth.

Prepare the chicken

Rinse the chicken and pat dry with a clean towel. Rub with the olive oil and herb puree and marinate overnight. The next day, sprinkle the chicken liberally with salt and pepper. Pre-heat the oven to 350 F. and place the chicken in a roasting pan, back bone down. Cook for 45 minutes or until the juice runs clear around the thigh bone. Remove from the oven and carve the meat from the bone.

Finish the dish

Toss the herb salad with the olive oil, lemon juice and Parmesan cheese and season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the chicken onto four warm plates and garnish with the salad. Serve with green onion risotto.

Recipe from Anne’s Favorite Recipes

---

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/salmon-herb.html

Cold Smoked Salmon with Herb Sauce

Ingredients

1 cup fresh dill weed

1 cup watercress

3 green onions cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup plain yogurt

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel

1 whole (5 pound) smoked salmon

1 bunch fresh dill weed, for garnish

Directions

1 Make Herb Sauce. Place dill weed, watercress and onions in food processor. Cover and process until minced. Stir in remaining ingredients. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour to blend flavors.

2 Remove head, tail and fins from salmon. Carefully peel off skin. Place on large platter. Serve with Herb Sauce. Garnish with fresh dill weed, watercress or sliced lemon if desired.

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.herbalgardens.com/recipes/salads-vegetables.html

Asparagus Rolls with Herb Sauce

Ingredients

10 Asparagus spears

5 Phyllo Pastry Shears

4 tbs Butter

For the sauce:

2 ea Shalots (finely chopped)

1 ea Bayleaf

1/2 cup Dry white whine

1/2 cup Butter (soft)

1 tbs Herbs (fresh, finely chopped)

Salt and Pepper (to taste)

Chopped Chives for garnish

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Melt the butter. Cut the phyllo pastry sheets in half, then brush a half sheet with melted butter. Fold one corner of the sheet down to the bottom edge to give a wedge shape.

2. Trim the asparagus. If it is thick, then peel the asparagus (as all good European chefs would do). Then lay a spear on top at the longest pastry edge and roll up towards the shortest edge. Make nine more rolls the same way.

3. Lay the rolls on a greased baking sheet. Brush with the remaining melted butter. Bake in the preheated oven for about eight minutes or until golden brown.

4. Meanwhile, back at the sauce: put the shallots, bay leaf and wine into a saucepan. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over a high heat until the wine is reduced to 3-4 tablespoons.

5. Strain the wine mixture into a bowl. Whisk in the butter, a little at a time, until the sauce is smooth and glossy.

6. Stir in the herbs and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return to pan and keep the sacue warm until ready to serve. When you drizzle the sauce over the rolls at serving time, sprinkle with a few chopped chives for garnish.

---

Herb Salad

Ingredients:

1 teaspoon best-quality sherry wine vinegar

1 teaspoon best-quality red wine vinegar

Fine sea salt to taste

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 ounces fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, carefully stemmed, rinsed and dried

2 ounces fresh chives, rinsed, dried and minced

2 ounces fresh tarragon leaves, carefully stemmed, rinsed, dried and leaves separated

2 ounces fresh mint, stemmed, rinsed, dried and leaves separated

Instructions:

In a large, shallow bowl, whisk together the sherry and wine vinegars and salt. Whisk in the olive oil and pepper. Taste for seasoning. Add all the herb leaves and toss to evenly coat the greens with the dressing. Taste for seasoning. Serve in small portions as an accompaniment to roast chicken, or grilled or poached fish.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

---

Fresh Tomato Salad with Herb Dressing

Fresh Tomato Salad

3 lbs. Assorted varieties and colors of tomatoes

1/2 pint Cherry tomatoes

Croutons

4 slices Sour dough bread

2 Tbl. Virgin olive oil

1 clove Fresh garlic, peeled

Herb Dressing

1/2 clove Fresh garlic, peeled

1 each Salted anchovies - soaked in water for 30 minutes and rinsed

1/2 cup Virgin olive oil

2 Tbls. Parsley, chopped fine (amount after chopping for all herbs)

2 Tbls. Chervil, chopped fine

2 Tbls. Chives, chopped fine

2 Tbls. Basil leaves, chopped fine

to taste Salt and black pepper

Method

Prepare the garlic croutons by brushing the bread on both sides with olive oil, then toasting. After toasting, rub the bread lightly with the garlic clove and set aside.

Prepare the herb dressing for the tomatoes by pounding the garlic clove with the anchovies in a mortar and pestle until smooth. Combine with the chopped herbs, oil and season to taste with salt and black pepper.

Slice the tomatoes and stem the cherry tomatoes then toss in the herb dressing . Arrange the slices in a stack on top of the crouton. Drizzle the herb dressing over the tomato slices and around the plate and sprinkle the cherry tomatoes and picked herb leaves around as a garnish.

Recipe from Anne’s Favorite Recipes

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

http://www.beyondpeak.com/links-beyondpeak.html

Peak Oil Prep is an expanded, paperback version of this Beyond Peak website. You can order it right now and have your own copy in just a few days.

Order Now!
Peak Oil has been looming on the horizon for a long time. If you just got the word, we hope it was in time for you to be at least psychologically prepared, if not physically. This entire Beyond Peak website is dedicated to giving you as much information as possible so that you can prepare for, or at least deal with, the likely results of Peak Oil and economic collapse. But we are not alone. A number of groups have been working for some time to imagine possible Peak Oil and economic collapse scenarios, suggest ways to prepare for those scenarios, and even to create communities where people can live together in a sustainable, cooperative way—a way of life that doesn't need the threat of Peak Oil to be a good idea.

Peak Oil Prep Websites

Here are some other websites that will give you some ideas for your own living situation and how you can join others to become more self-sufficient.

Dry Dipstick

First off you'll likely want to know as much as you can about Peak Oil and its likely results. This is the site. It serves as an up-to-date, comprehensive metadirectory for all major Peak Oil sites on the web.

The following are sites with useful suggestions as well as specific communities that are organizing.Busby Report

U.K. survival in the 21st century

Community Solution

U.S. organization dedicated to the development, growth and enhancement of small local communities.

Agraria Low-energy-use, small, sustainable community planned by Community Solution in Yellow Springs, Ohio

Independence Journal

Sustainable living news for "exurban living"—getting along at the edge of the Western resource-intensive lifestyle Life After the Oil Crash

Website for the author of The Oil Age is Over

Oil Awareness Meetups

Meet with others in groups around the world

Oil Scenarios.info

An excellent site with detailed information on five different Peak Oil scenarios, ranging from Pollyanna to Head for the Hills

Peak Oil Survival Guide

Step-by-step guide to Peak Oil survival. [ebook]

Permatopia

Permaculture solutions to Peak Oil, climate change and other environmental crises

Post Carbon Institute

Learning to live in a low energy world. An educational institution and think tank that explores what society might look like without oil and gas. Includes community activist effort

Outposts

Community-focused groups being facilitated by Post Carbon InstituteSurviving Peak Oil

Grass roots ideas for survival. Excellent

Transition Culture

Excellent sustainability site based in the U.K. but with information suitable everywhere

Urban Survival.com

Anticipating economic collapse - long wave economic news

Willits Economic Localization

Home page for the Willits, California Peak Oil community activities Past the Peak Article on how the small town of Willits plans to beat the coming energy crisis

---

Well the "post carbon" stuff is silly, we are MADE of carbon and so is everything else living in the world, but still there might be some good resources here. FWIW.
10th

[TenthAmendmentChampion]

http://www.ssrsi.org/rah/nobux.htm

US Economy or World Economy

American Economic Collapse Not Far Away According to chief economists, the American economy is so close to collapse its getting scary. Here are presented 25 Reasons Why the US Economy Will Collapse and 10 ways to slow or halt its occurrence.

The Coming Economic Collapse The reason why America has such large trade and current deficits is because of the expansion of its money supply, without the corresponding expansion of its productive capacity to produce the wealth to sustain the increase in money in circulation. The lack of domestic savings to provide the investment capital into new manufacturing capacity is also a contributing factor. The cost of maintaining a large military establishment and the decline in the social fabric of society are also significant contributing factors, both of which consume resources that should be invested in the manufacturing sector for a nation to remain internationally competitive.

Hard Times Gazette | Make a Million off the coming economic collapse This is a sales pitch for a book, but there are some interesting articles on the page.

Currency Chaos and Financial Collapse - Part 1 & Part 2:To understand the world financial situation is to understand the difference between reality and illusions of reality. It is to understand that the basis of all financial failures is the inability to pay debt. Debt is repaid from income or profits. When income or profits are insufficient to repay debts, default occurs. Occasionally, new debts are provided to repay old debts, but this will only increase total debts and future losses.

DollarCollapse FAQs governments are fundamentally incapable of maintaining the value of their currencies. Every leader, whether king, president or prime minister, serves at the pleasure of two powerful constituencies: Taxpayers irate about what they currently pay and violently opposed to paying more, and recipients of government help who demand vastly greater levels of spending on everything from defense, to roads, to old age pensions. Alienate either group, and the result can be an abrupt career change.

FTW Economic Alert: Global Economic Collapse Imminent, Pension Fund Disaster; Stocks, Dollar To Free Fall, Gold To Skyrocket by Michael C. Ruppert: The last time FTW issued an emergency economic bulletin to its subscribers was Sept. 9. At that time a derivatives investment bubble on the verge of implosion, a 900-point drop in the Dow Jones average and a pending liquidity crisis signaled a crash on the order of 1929. Only the attacks of Sept. 11 and massive intervention from the U.S. Treasury and Federal Reserve prevented the collapse. Investors blamed the ensuing market losses on the attacks.

Economic Collapse Being “Set Up” I have been telling Americans for the past 14 years what is coming, but few will listen because Americans are too afraid of the truth. They don’t want to know what’s just over the horizon. They want their material comforts and fun times. A recent article was published that must be read by everyone (PDF file). Carolyn Lochhead has laid it out in frightening detail - all the numbers of what is going to happen in four short years when the baby boomers retire - 77 million of them. The numbers in Ms. Lochhead’s article are accurate. There is no money in the U.S. Treasury to fund those numbers . The borrowing by Congress to fund their immoral and unconstitutional wars, UN dues, 18% of the IMFs budget, billions in corporate welfare, trillions in foreign “aid,” all these social welfare programs and basic government functions continues to rack up debt at a rate of $1.69 BILLION dollars a day from an empty treasury. Quite a trick.

Grandfather Economic Report This is probably the single scariest site on the Web. Created and maintained by Michael Hodges, a retired businessman who’s justifiably worried about the world he’ll leave to his grandkids, this site takes visitors step-by-step through the horror show that is the modern American economy. Hodges shows how government has been growing and consumer debt accumulating, as well as how we’ve been failing on other fronts like education. A couple of hours here is the perfect primer.

Financial Sense Online San Diego money manager Jim Puplava has built an online empire around his conception of the “perfect financial storm.” His take is that unfavorable trends in demographics, globalization and debt accumulation will combine to cause a hyperinflation followed by a deflationary crash. His Storm Watch chronicles would be reason enough to visit, but Puplava has managed to attract a constellation of first-rate contributors who provide a non-stop stream of insight.

Bird flu poll reveals US economic collapse likely in the event of ... There’s a new poll about bird flu in the United States that gives us a somewhat alarming look at what might happen to the U.S. economy if the bird flu becomes infectious to humans. The Harvard School of Public Health conducted a telephone survey of 1,043 adults with a series of “what if” questions. The results of this poll show that 60 percent of the citizens in the United States are concerned about bird flu, indicating that there is very high awareness.

BELLACIAO - Collapse of US Economy Imminent - notepad - Collective ... Bank Of America and Compass Bank managers (probably all other U.S. banks too) have been instructing their employees in the last few weeks on how to respond to customer demands in the event of a collapse of the U.S. economy - specifically telling the employees that only agents from the Department Of Homeland Security will have authority to decide what belongings customers may have from their safe deposit boxes - and that precious metals and other valuables will not be released to U.S. citizens. The bank employees have been strictly prohibited from revealing the banks’ new “guidelines” to anyone. (however, employees have been talking to friends and family)...

USA’s Future Economic Collapse In 1929, the debt ratio in relation to the Gross National Product stood at a healthy 16%. In 1990, the national debt increased to an alarming 60% of the GNP. The total debt of America is greater than the combined external debts of all the nations of the world. America’s debt is 4.3 trillion dollars which is equivalent to a 270 mile high stack of tightly bound $1000 bills. Each mile representing the depth of the pit America will be unable to crawl out of...

the crash and fall of USA’s economy, visions of economic collapse It doesn’t get much weirder than this. Somebody please explain the concept of “spell check” and proper use of capitalization, grammar, sentence structure, etc. to this “prophet.” They might (maybe) come across a bit more legitimate, then. Probably not.

Collapse in 2005? The official US myth is that the recession of 2000-2001 ended in November 2001 and “recovery“ has been underway ever since. The reality is not so positive. Using record low interest rates, the Fed has lured American families into debt at record rates, creating what might be called a „virtual recovery,“ financed by record amounts of new consumer debt. There has never been a recovery before in which debt levels increase, rather the opposite.

The economic collapse of America is coming The world will continue to go on, just as it did when Babylon fell, and when Rome fell, and when the sun set upon the British Empire. The economic collapse of America is not the end of the world, nor the end of America. America will still exist, but in a much less free form. Just as the economic collapse of the Weimar Republic paved the way for Hitler’s rise in Germany, America’s financial decline will lead to a more totalitarian regime.

World Economy

Currency Chaos and Financial Collapse - Part 1 & Currency Chaos and Financial Collapse - Part 2 To understand the world financial situation is to understand the difference between reality and illusions of reality. It is to understand that the basis of all financial failures is the inability to pay debt. Debt is repaid from income or profits. When income or profits are insufficient to repay debts, default occurs. Occasionally, new debts are provided to repay old debts, but this will only increase total debts and future losses...

World wide economic collapse Our first response must be, to try to understand the dimension of the global economic collapse that is presently driving the world towards war. Historically, the causes for war have always been economic in nature, no matter what the official reasons were, including all the wars of the last century. The present war drive is no exception, and the dangers for war is acute since the financial structures that the world’s imperial forces require are disintegrating. The present war drive is largely motivated to provide a cover to restage the global system to the advantage of certain interests...

FuturePundit- Economic Collapse Avoidable During An Influenza Pandemic Sherry Cooper and Donald Coxe of Canadian brokerage BMO Nesbitt Burns paint a very bleak economic picture should a dangerous flu such as the H5N1 avian flu develop into a deadly human pandemic strain. They warn investors the economic fallout out of a pandemic would inflict pain across sectors and around the globe. Airlines would be grounded, transport of goods would cease, the tourism and hospitality sectors would evaporate and the impact on exports would be devastating, Cooper wrote.

The Risk of Collapse of the World’s Economies This is one of the more contentious risks to continuing our prosperous first-world standard of living. The two most often used problems in economics relate to Fiat Currencies and Derivatives and surprise, surprise both relate to the continued value of the US Dollar and its place at the pinnacle of world currency markets. To give you a quick example all the worlds oil is bought and paid for in US Dollars. It is estimated that if this were to change the US Dollar would fall by about 40 percent.

The Coming Economic Collapse. The world has experienced some of the greatest shift of wealth in recent history, from the Anglo-Saxon nations who have dominated the global economy for the last 200 years, to Asia and Continental Europe. This shift in wealth will shortly result in the economic collapse of the Anglo-Saxon nations – their money will become worthless, and their economies will disintegrate into anarchy and poverty.

PEOPLE For Mathematically Perfected Economy™. As surely as debt is perpetually multiplied in proportion to a circulation, every central banking system suffers a maximum possible lifespan, defined by a moment when the periodic costs of servicing debt exceed the circulation.

World Wide Economic Collapse World “experts” in money markets like Cliyde Prestowitz, Warren Buffet and George Soros are betting on a major crash of the dollar in the near future. Prestowitz thinks it will be greater than the Great Depression of the 1930s. With trade deficits over 650 billion this year (more last year) we have placed our future in the hands of non-Americans. Our deficit is financed by the central banks of countries like China and Japan. In fact all the world banks are chock-full of US dollars, much more than they want or need for trade.

wfn.org | Environmental Theologian Predicts Economic Collapse Dr. Richard Austin, author of a series of books on environmental ethics and theology, believes the world is headed for economic collapse. In his address “Beyond the Bull Market: Catastrophe or Repentance,” at the Presbyterians for Restoring Creation lunch on Tuesday, June 16, Austin shared details of three possible scenarios

[nw_arizona_granny]

http://www.geocities.com/homegardener/seeds.htm

GETTING READY FOR SPRING

Everyone can grow a plant… it does, however, require a bit of patience and some attention to enjoy success. By observing what is happening with your plants on a regular basis, one can better understand their needs and growth habits. You will also notice if anything is wrong, such as insect problems, disease, or other things that can threaten its health.
I often wonder why many of us like to garden. My own passion for plants began at a very young age. I found a way to care for a living thing that was all my own; something depending on my care, yet didn’t mind that I went to school. Plants don’t need to be played with or taken for walks. Yet, they are living things that can be nurtured and loved. For me, it was the ideal solution, and a first lesson in horticulture. Introduce yourself or a child to a plant today.

STARTING YOUR SEED
With spring around the corner, this woman’s thoughts turn to...SEEDS! Most plant catalogs and magazines have already boasted the new plants for this year, and that always gets me anxious to get started with new plants. Growing from seed gives the gardener the advantage of trying new and unusual varieties that may not be available locally.

Seeds can be started in various containers. Good drainage is important...you don’t want your seeds to float in a soggy bog of mud! Be sure the container you choose has holes for drainage, with a tray underneath to catch the water. You can also use pebbles or small stones before you add your soil. TIP: Sometimes you will find clear plastic containers at the grocery store that fruit or other products come in that can be used as a mini-greenhouse to start seeds. My husband bought me a birthday cake recently, and when the cake was done, the clear plastic dome and tray served as a great place to start my marigolds!! He didn’t realize he was giving me a dual-purpose gift!

Note: Be sure to remove the plastic cover as soon as your seeds begin to sprout!

For slow-growing vegetables like peppers and eggplant, I start 8-10 weeks early, starting the second week in March, for planting by Mother’s Day weekend. I start my tomato seeds in flats the last week of March, which leaves six weeks or so for the same planting date. I leave the green beans, cucumber, zucchini, carrots, and some of the herb seeds until May for planting directly into the garden. For flowers, check the seed packet, so you won’t have monsters trailing out of their pots too soon before the weather warms up.

So how does one plant a seed? A mere hole in the soil with a seed dropped in and watered? Is that it? Basically, yes...technically, there is more to it for successful results, so here’s the scoop...

1. Read the packet. As with mature plants, it helps to know what you have. Some seed need light for germination, some do not require light until after germination. Some need cool temps, while most like warm heat from the bottom. Some seed have tough outer coatings, which may need to be cold treated. Some may need to be scarified (nicked) and soaked in water before planting for faster germination. Some seed are dustlike, and shouldn’t be covered. Read the packet, which should have the information for proper germination of your particular seed. Then do a little research the plant, so you can provide the growing conditions to best suit its needs, once it has sprouted.

2. Proper planting medium. The main reason many of us have problems growing seeds has a lot to do with the growing conditions we provide for them. Seeds need to be kept moist, and moist conditions can also breed fungus which can attack young seedlings. This is called damping off, and it happens suddenly. Young seedlings keel over and look like they’ve been pinched at the stem. To prevent this from happening, NEVER use garden soil to start seed indoors. Use a seed starting mix containing sphagnum peat moss, or use straight milled sphagnum peat. Kits are available that contain peat pellets which expand when you add water, and these can later be transplanted directly into the ground. While it’s true that this medium does not contain many nutrients, the fungus spores that cause damping off will not grow in peat. I have used the milled sphagnum every year with great results. I empty the bag into a bucket of warm water to soak, and then take a handful of sphagnum, squeeze out the water, and fill my pots. In the case of peppers and tomatoes, I use the tip of a pencil to make a shallow hole, drop the seed in, and lightly cover. Nutrients won’t be needed until the seed has its first set of true leaves, in which case you can use a balanced all-purpose fertilizer at half the recommended strength.

3. Proper temperature. Check the seed packet for the correct temperature required for germination. You may cover the pots with a plastic dome to keep in heat and moisture, but you don’t have to. It is very important that you do not place covered seeds in direct sunlight, and be sure to remove the cover as soon as seed has sprouted.
If you can provide bottom heat, this will speed things along. A friend of mine has a seed starting mat that she keeps her seeded pots on. The mat keeps a constant temperature of 85 degrees. She planted pepper seeds the same day as I did, and hers sprouted faster by 4-5 days. Once the seeds are up, you can remove them from the mat, and use 1/2 strength of a liquid fertilizer once a week, until the plants are big enough to move into soil.

4. Proper growing conditions. There’s no advantage to starting off new little plants if you don’t have the proper conditions for growing them once they have emerged from the soil! Be sure you have an area with the right kind of light for the plants you are growing.

The ideal location is by a sunny window, or you can create your own growing environment by placing your plants on a bench or table with florescent lighting supported over it. Many people make the mistake of setting this up in a basement, where it is usually too cool for seedlings to do well. Choose a warm location, around 75-80 degrees. Place the florescent fixture on chains so they can be adjusted as your plants grow taller. The cool florescent bulbs will not burn plants, and they should be placed very closely, within 4-6 inches from the top of the plants. Remember, this is just a temporary place and you really should not keep plants that like sun at this location for more than 4 weeks. Plants can also be placed in a cold frame outdoors, as long as it is warm, and you provide ventilation so they won’t get baked on sunny days!

Be sure to “harden off” your plants before bringing them outdoors...this means gradually exposing them to sunlight for short periods each day, so the foliage won’t scorch. Transplant shock is also minimized when you plant outdoors on cloudy days.

Here are some great books to help you get started!

“Growing Plants From Seed,” by John Kelly
“The New Seed Starters Handbook,” by Nancy Bubel
“From Seed to Bloom,” by Eileen Powell