Home gardening offers ways to trim grocery costs [Survival Today, an on going thread]

Americans finding soaring food prices hard to stomach can battle back by growing their own food. [Click image for a larger version] Dean Fosdick Dean Fosdick

Home vegetable gardens appear to be booming as a result of the twin movements to eat local and pinch pennies.

At the Southeastern Flower Show in Atlanta this winter, D. Landreth Seed Co. of New Freedom, Pa., sold three to four times more seed packets than last year, says Barb Melera, president. "This is the first time I've ever heard people say, 'I can grow this more cheaply than I can buy it in the supermarket.' That's a 180-degree turn from the norm."

Roger Doiron, a gardener and fresh-food advocate from Scarborough, Maine, said he turned $85 worth of seeds into more than six months of vegetables for his family of five.

A year later, he says, the family still had "several quarts of tomato sauce, bags of mixed vegetables and ice-cube trays of pesto in the freezer; 20 heads of garlic, a five-gallon crock of sauerkraut, more homegrown hot-pepper sauce than one family could comfortably eat in a year and three sorts of squash, which we make into soups, stews and bread."

She compares the current period of market uncertainty with that of the early- to mid-20th century when the concept of victory gardens became popular.

"A lot of companies during the world wars and the Great Depression era encouraged vegetable gardening as a way of addressing layoffs, reduced wages and such," she says. "Some companies, like U.S. Steel, made gardens available at the workplace. Railroads provided easements they'd rent to employees and others for gardening."

Making Handmade Paper in 10 Easy Steps

Ancient Egyptians invented the first substance like the paper we know
today called Papyrus. Papyrus scrolls were made by taking slices of
the inner part of the papyrus stem, flattening then pounded into a
hard, thin sheet. The word “paper” comes from the word “papyrus”. The
Paper that we know today was invented by Ts’ai Lun in A.D. 105, It is
believed that he mixed hemp, mulberry bark, and rags with water,
mashed it into a pulp, pressed out the liquid and hung it to dry in
the sun. Paper was born and this humble mixture would set off one of
mankind’s greatest communication revolutions.

Today there is a revival in homemade papermaking crafts. Not only is
it a fun experience for you and the kids, but it’s a good way to
recycle waste into wonderful possibilities.

Below you will find a simple papermaking recipe to get you started.
If this is the first time you are making paper, don’t be afraid to
experiment with different fibers, you don’t have to stick with paper
related products. Add whole flower heads to the pulp mixture after it
has been through the blender. You can add scraps of yarn, tin foil,
even seeds. Its all comes down to what you want. Experiment with
different textures and colors after all Ts’ai Lun did! Remember, some
of your ideas will turn out while others may not. Have fun with it,
express your creativity.

Simple Recipe:

Many types of paper that can be used include:

Computer Paper (unprinted)
Newspaper (If you want a grayish colored paper)
Magazines
Egg Cartons
Old Cards (For heavier paper)
Toilet Paper
Paper Bags
Non Waxed Boxes (Pre-soak in warm water)
Office Paper
Tissue Paper (For finer paper)
Typing Paper
Napkins
Construction Paper
Supplies you’ll need:

Sponge
Window Screening (mold)
Wood Frame (old picture frame can be used too) (deckle)
Plastic Basin/Tub (Large enough to totally immerse frame)
Blender/Food Processor (For making paper pulp)
White Felt or Flannel Fabric
Staples or Tacks (For tacking screen on frame)
Liquid starch (optional)

Instructions:

1. Select the pieces of paper to be recycled. You can even mix
different types to create your own unique paper.

2. Rip the paper into small bits, and place into the blender. (about
half full). Fill the blender with warm water. Run the blender slowly
at first then increase the speed until the pulp looks smooth and well
blended. ( 30 -40 seconds) Check that no flakes of paper remain. If
there are, blend longer.

3. The next step is to make a mold. The mold, in this case, is made
simply by stretching fiberglass screen (plain old door and window
screen) over a wooden frame and stapling it. It should be as tight as
possible.

4. Fill the basin about half way with water. Add 3 blender loads of
pulp. (the more pulp you add the thicker the finished paper will be)
Stir the mixture.

5. Now is the time to add the liquid starch for sizing.(This is not
necessary but if the paper is going to be used for writing on, you
should add some, the starch helps to prevent inks from soaking into
the paper fibers.) Stir 2 teaspoons of liquid starch into the pulp.

Place the mold into the pulp and then level it out while it is
submerged. Gently wiggle it side-to-side until the pulp on top of the
screen looks even.

6. Slowly lift the mold up until it is above the level of the water.
Wait until most of the water has drained from the new paper sheet. If
the paper is very thick, remove some pulp from the tub. If it is too
thin, add more pulp and stir the mixture again.

7. When the mold stops dripping, gently place one edge on the side of
a fabric square (felt or flannel square). Gently ease the mold down
flat, with the paper directly on the fabric. Use a sponge to press
out as much water as possible. Wring the excess water from the sponge
back into the large plastic tub.

8. Now comes the tricky part. Hold the fabric square flat and slowly
lift the edge of the mold. The wet sheet of paper should remain on
the fabric. If it sticks to the mold, you may have pulled to fast or
not pressed out enough water. It takes a little practice. You can
gently press out any bubbles and loose edges at this point.

9. Repeat the steps above, and stack the fabric squares on a cookie
sheet. Save one fabric square to place on the top of the stack to
cover the last piece of paper. Use another cookie sheet to press the
remaining water out of the stack. (do this outside or in the bathtub,
it can make a mess)

10. After you press the stack, gently separate the sheets. They can
be dried by hanging on a clothesline or laying them out on sheets of
newspaper. When they have dried peel them off the fabric and voila!
you have paper!

The Top 20 Emergency Supplies You Need to Survive Any Disaster —

http://www.surviveanydisaster.com/emergency_supplies.html

It’s important to have the right emergency supplies in your home
before disaster hits.
Nowadays, no continent on Earth is safe from catastrophe, and the
same can be said for most U.S. states.

In 2004, over 300,000 people lost their lives in South Asia from the
most devastating tsunami on record. A year later, here in America,
New Orleans was all but destroyed by Hurricane Katrina.

Just a few months ago, Southern California was devastated by the
worst wild fires in our nation’s history. On top of that, over a
million people had to be evacuated, which was the largest evacuation
of U.S. citizens since the Civil War.

Then a severe ice storm shut down power across the Midwest, leaving
over a million people without heat and electricity for a number of
days. A few lost their lives.

Our planet is clearly going through perilous changes. The fact that
the polar ice caps are melting, and the fact that the weather is
getting more severe all around the globe — well, it looks like
disasters are going to become more commonplace — and kill a lot more
people.

Many believe this is in fact the beginning of God’s judgments, which
are said to occur in the ‘last days’, and catch much of the world by
surprise. Whatever your beliefs are, it looks like it’s going to get
a lot worse for the people of planet Earth.

If your area is hit by a major disaster, there’s a good chance that
you won’t have any access to emergency supplies, and what stores do
stock essential supplies are likely to be quickly sold or even taken
by looters, as tens of thousands of people in nearby communities
literally break down the doors of stores to get their hands on food
and supplies.

Here is a list of the top 20 items SurviveAnyDisaster.com believes it
is absolutely important that you have on hand. Not only should you
have these on hand, but explain to your family members where they can
find these items in your house (should something happen to you).

You Need:

1) Large Supply of Bottled Water, and the knowledge to procure water
from contaminated sources. Two of the most common methods for
procuring drinking water from contaminated sources are
called “distilling” (which involves boiling water and collecting the
steam in a “run-off” that then drips clean water into a separate
container); the other method is called “filtering”, which involves
pouring water through a manufactured or home-made “filter” system, in
an effort to remove contaminates.

Before disaster hits, do some research online, and learn “how to
distill water” and “how to filter contaminated water”. Then practice
these methods at home with your family.

When shopping for bottled water, look specifically for “Food grade”
water storage containers. These range in size from 1 gallon to 5
gallon jugs, to 55 gallon barrels and 250 gallon and 500 gallon mega-
size containers (see link labeled “Water Storage Containers” at the
top of the page).

2) Non-perishable Food - This refers to any food that does not need
refrigeration and is packaged, canned, or bottled in a way to provide
a long shelf life. Be sure to check expiration dates (see link
labeled “Food Supplies” at the top of the page).

3) Candles / Wooden Matches / Lighters - (Candles, such as Sterno’s
60 Hour Emergency Candle) are specifically made to burn for longer
amounts of time than traditional decorative candles. Like bottled
water, it’s good to have a large supply of emergency candles, wooden
matches, and lighters. A few weeks down the road, candles are likely
to become your only light source, especially if firewood runs low and
those wind-up emergency flashlights stop working.

4) Light weight Axe - Firewood is the most obvious source to provide
heat during cold temperatures, and as long as you have a good axe,
you can turn just about anything into firewood. Even if you don’t
have a fireplace, you can still build a makeshift fireplace or wood
stove in your backyard out of rocks and mud (usable once the mud
dries). You can also use a patio fire pit, as commonly sold at home
improvement stores, such as Lowes and Home Depot. (If you build an
outdoor fireplace, remove the grill from the oven in the kitchen of
your house, and use it for outside cooking, in conjunction with your
firepit.)

Choose an axe that is both heavy duty, and light weight, because you
may end up carrying it in a backpack over long distances, and the
less it weighs, the better.

5) Propane for Cooking - There is something even more useful than
firewood (in the early weeks of disaster), and that is propane.

Propane is the most obvious fuel source to keep on your property, and
most people who own a bar-b-cue usually have one multi gallon propane
tank tucked underneath or to the side. In preparing your home for
disaster, if you have the money to spend, consider buying and filling
five to ten of these. Or better yet, just as RV owners do, you can
buy propane tanks that are extra large in capacity, and hold a lot
more propane than typical 13 gallon bar-b-cue tanks.

Propane is a great survival tool in emergencies because it can be
used for both cooking and heating (but I suggest it only be used for
cooking, and that you get your heat from other sources, such as warm
clothing and warm blankets; this way you use as little propane as
possible, making it last longer).

Be sure to store any propane in your garage, or in a shed, or outside
under a tarp – don’t store it in your home, as it can have a slow
leak and poison the air.

Rather than use propane to fuel a full size bar-b-cue, I suggest you
buy a much smaller compact propane stove, as commonly used for
camping, as the right stove will be much more efficient, and use the
least amount of propane.

6) Propane Camp Stove - As propane is the most common fuel used in
outdoor bar-b-cues, a smaller two burner camp stove is best, for
emergency purposes. When selecting a camp stove, choose one that can
handle repeat long term use.

Warning about Lawlessness - In the event of a catastrophe, looters
may be out scavenging for propane tanks, so keep yours well hidden,
as much as possible. If you’re doing any outside cooking, keep in
mind that the smell of your food can drift for a far distance,
catching the attention of scavengers, who (in the wake up
lawlessness) may be willing to kill or seriously injure you, to take
any and all water, food, and other supplies you have on your
property.

7) First Aid Kit - Make sure you have a well stocked first aid kit,
which are commonly sold at drugstores and back country stores. With
your kit, be sure to include a generous supply of Ibuprofen (pain
reliever and fever reducer), and antiseptic spray for burns, stings,
and cuts. Rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide are also recommended
by some, for washing out wounds, in preporation for bandaging. Anti-
diarrhea medication is also recommended, as there is a chance you may
eat contaminated food or drink contaminated water at some point, and
suffer from it.

8) Radio and batteries - A small emergency radio is good to have
around; if news is still broadcasting you can pick up reports to find
out how the rest of the nation is faring during this time of
devastation. A radio is only as good as the amount of batteries you
have to power it, so keep a generous supply. Nowadays, there are
emergency radios for under $50 that do not need batteries, but have a
wind up dial that you crank, to generate power for up to 30 minutes
or more. It might be smart to have both, this way if the wind up dial
ever breaks, you still have a back up radio with batteries.

9) Flashlight / Lantern - it’s good to have 2 - 3 flashlights on
hand, that are heavy duty and can withstand moisture and being
dropped. Headlamps are even better, as you can wear them around your
head, which frees up your hands for other use.

Today there are lanterns and flashlights that don’t need batteries;
like the emergency radios mentioned above, these usually generate
power by a wind up dial, and some smaller flashlights you activate
by “shaking” for a short period of time. As it’s not known how
reliable these devices are with repeat use, I suggest that you have
both battery operated flashlights / headlamps, in addition to the
wind up flashlights and wind up lanterns.

10) Heavy Duty Tarp - Tarp is sold in most home improvement stores;
choose a dark color that doesn’t stand out (in case you ever have to
hide out in the forest), and have 3 - 5 tarps of various sizes. Tarp
can be used for a number of things – from building shelters in the
forest, to building shelters underground.

Rain Catch -Tarp can also be used as a “rain catch” for catching rain
water, for drinking. Lay the tarp out flat, and then hoist it into
the air from all four corners, so it sags in the middle; this is
where water from any rain will collect.

Warm Room - Tarp can also be used to help insulate a “warm room”,
which is a room that is set aside in your house where all family
members can meet together at night, to conserve body heat. Just as
children like to build “forts”, choose one room in your house that
you can seal off at night, and build a “fort” inside.

Stuff a bath towel or blanket under the door crack to keep the cold
from coming in and to keep body heat from escaping. Also, hang up
towels and blankets over the window, and even seal off with tarp and
duct tape to help keep warmth from escaping at night through the
window pane.

Now that you have a “warm room” sealed off in your house, build
a “children’s fort” inside (out of tarp and blankets) that is big
enough for your family to then crawl inside and sleep in. This is
almost like the “igloo” such as Eskimos build in the freezing snow of
Alaska. You’ll find that your body heat from you / your group will
help keep this space at a warmer temperature than the rest of the
house.

11) Bowie Knife - A good knife is an essential, and is going to cost
some money. When choosing a knife, look for one where the blade runs
to the bottom of the handle; and make sure that the store that you’re
buying it from understands that you intend to do a lot of wood
carving with it, so you absolutely need a knife with a handle that
won’t fall apart with repeat use. (If by chance you have to flee your
home and community at some point, a good Bowie knife – also called
a “Survival knife” – can be used to carve a long bow, for bow and
arrow hunting like the Indians of early America. For this reason, as
well as for cutting up and carving game that you’ve killed (such as
deer or elk), it is very important that the handle of your knife be
exceptionally durable.)

Gerber LMF 2 Folding Knife Infantry w/ Black Blade

The Gerber LMFII was designed in conjunction with military and
military instructors to be used in any survival situation.

12) Hiking Boots - Like your bowie knife, expect to spend some money
on hiking boots. You want a pair that are going to last you, and not
fall apart if by chance you end up wearing them for two years or more
straight. When selecting a boot, let the store know that you need a
pair that is built to withstand heavy hiking, and that is the least
likely to need any repairs on the trail. You want a boot where the
bottom sole is “stitched” to the rest of the boot, instead of simply
glued to it, which is how most cheaper boots come.
13) Compass - If you have to flee your community, or if you’ve simply
taken to nearby forests to hunt and fish for food, a good compass and
knowing how to use it is an important tool to have. Some compasses
even come with a built in thermometer and signaling mirror, which can
help you out in a survival situation.

14) Bear Pepper Spray - Whether it’s wild dogs that have gotten
loose, or cougars or bears that have strayed down into your
community – pepper spray that’s strong enough to ward off Grizzly
bears – called “Bear Pepper Spray” for it’s strength – can prove to
be a life saver. Consider buying 3 - 5 large bottles, or one for each
member of your family. You can also use it to fend off looters (as
long as they’re not pointing a gun at you).

Guard Alaska Bearspray - Bear Protection - Self Defense

15) Cold Weather Sleeping Bag - To make sure that you’re protected by
any exceptional drop in temperature, you should consider buying a
sleeping bag that can hold up with repeat use, and will keep you warm
to twenty degrees below zero. Depending on where you live in America –
you’ll probably want to go even colder than that.

-22º Nato Military Issue Antarctica Sleeping Bag

16) Cold Weather Parka and Snow Pants - Since you might find yourself
out in cold weather during the day time, as you collect firewood,
help out neighbors, and hunt and fish for food, it’s important to
have the right coat and pants that can withstand the elements,
especially snow and slush. As an added bonus, if you have to flee
your community, you can even sleep in your coat and pants, if they’re
layered right and / or rated to keep you warm enough.

17) Personal Hygiene Items - In preparation for a widespread
disaster, and the possible collapse of government and our entire
economy, you should be aware that the next time you go shopping at a
supermarket, it could be your last. If the economy falls, stores are
going to fast run out of food and supplies, and without new shipments
coming, there will be no more stores to buy from. Not only is your
money likely to be useless, but the items that you do need are going
to be in high demand, which probably means very hard to come by.

Stock up now on toothpaste, mouthwash, dental floss (the last thing
you want to have happen is a dental emergency, when there are no more
dentists available), bar soap for bathing, shampoo, bleach, bleach
wipes (very handy), and laundry detergent. If you minimize your use
of these items, you can make them last many months.

18) Outdoor Clothing - If disaster strikes, there’s a good chance you
won’t be reporting to work in an office downtown, but you may find
yourself helping out neighbors and others in your community by
building shelters and reparing houses that may have been damaged.
With this in mind, be sure to have clothing that can handle being
outside in the elements.

Consider stocking up on clothing that’s geared for heavy use, such as
that sold by outdoor clothing stores, such as Carhart. Have an
assortment of pants, sweat pants, sweatshirts, hooded sweatshirts,
thermal underwear, and a few pairs of wool socks. If you can afford
to buy more than the average person, don’t hesitate to do so.

When preparing for a natural disaster or large scale terrorist attack
(such as a nuclear detonation in a nearby city), there’s no such
thing as being over-prepared.

Making a Quick-Bow

Note: The Quick-Bow is also sometimes referred to as the Bundle-Bow

by Christopher Nyerges

http://www.wwmag.net/quickbow.htm

If hunting is an option, a bow may be your weapon of choice. After
all, nearly every culture used bows at one time. Variations of the
long bow have been used by all cultures for centuries. Why? Because,
in spite of an array of other weapons at our disposal, the bow
requires the least amount of collective effort to both make and learn
to use, and arrows shot from one can be directed to the prey with
accuracy. It has established itself as the standard weapon.

One day you may need a bow now. Yes, you have read The Bowyer’s
Bible, and you know about wood selection, drying, splitting, shaving,
tapering, tillering — all the things you need to do to take a piece
of wood and turn it into the ultimate arrow-delivery device. This
process may take hours, maybe days, possibly weeks to create a good
bow. This presupposes the availability of suitable wood. Some-times,
you do not have hours, days, weeks. You need a bow now. What then?

A quick-bow can be constructed from about 8 lengths of twigs, about
as thick as your little finger and maybe five to six feet long. Such
a quick-bow can be constructed in less than an hour, assuming all
supplies are readily available. The twigs or branches used can be dry
or green.

Generally, a quick-bow will have less poundage of pressure than a
comparable size longbow. Still, the quick-bow can be made in a hurry
and can be used for hunting small game. Of course, you still need to
make arrows, and you will need a lot of twine.

Construction Details
First, I have no idea who “invented” this bow. I have seen variations
of it made by John McPherson, and similar bows made by teachers at
Winter Count. Most likely, it is something that resourceful people of
yore made in a hurry so they had something to hunt with until they
finished the really good longbow they were working on.

Decide how long of a bow you wish to construct. This may be dictated
by the locally available materials.

When I teach this to my students, we go to an area where there is a
thick growth of willows and mulefat, and each student cuts
approximately seven or eight long branches.

All the branches should be straight and free of knots or side
branches. They should be as perfectly straight as you can find, with
a diameter that can be as thin as a pencil to no larger than your
thumb.
Begin by laying the longest branch on the ground. Let’s assume that
you will use seven branches. There will be one five-foot branch, and
each of the other six branches will be successively shorter. You want
a series of branches that become successively shorter, so that the
grip area is the thickest and strongest, and so there is the greatest
flexibility at the end. So, for example, you might cut your seven
branches in lengths of 5 feet, 4-1/2 feet, 4 feet, 3-1/2 feet, 3
feet, 2 feet, and one foot.

Remember: This is only an example. You might have less than seven or
more, depending on the thickness of the available twigs. But you do
want branches that get successively smaller. A pair of ratchet
clippers comes in handy here.

Once you have all your branches pruned to length, look them over and
trim off any side branches that might be protruding. Then make sure
all the thick ends of each twig are not all either at the top or
bottom of what will become the quick-bow. Alternate as many twigs as
necessary so there will be a balance of top to bottom thickness.

Next, begin to tie up the branches. There are two ways in which I
have seen this done.

One way is to simply bunch up all the twigs, and tie them as tight as
possible, wrapping the twine many times around at each point and
tying secure knots every few inches. Some folks say this works fine.

Another way takes more time. Begin by tying the two longest twigs or
poles together; wrapping with twine and tying knots every few inches.
Then tie the third twig onto the first two, and secure it the same
way. Tie the fourth twig onto the first three, and secure as before,
and continue until everything is very secure.

In either method, you want to be sure to tie at the end of each pole
so that there are not pieces sticking out. You want to be left with a
very tight and secure bow.

Finally, add a bowstring to the quick-bow. You can use regular nylon
bow string, if you have it, twined natural fibers, shoelaces,
parachute cord, baling cord, or any fiber you found along the trail.
This is a quick-bow when you need one, not a relic that you will pass
down to your grandchildren. So whatever cordage you have will have to
do.

Arrows, of course, are another matter, but you can shoot commercial
or homemade arrows with such a bow. I recommend that you try it both
ways.

[How to save money on gas....granny]

Getting Started with Oxen

http://prairieoxdrovers.com/training.html

Start the calf as young as possible.

One way to start the training, that is used by many teamsters in the
United States, is by standing with the calf on your right side,
holding his lead rope in your left hand and a light rod or whip in
your right hand. With the rod lightly tap him on rump to teach him
to “Giddup” or move forward, and on the head to teach him to “Whoa”
or stop . Lightly tap him on the right ear to get him to “Haw” or
turn left, and on the left ear to “Gee” or turn right. Lightly tap
him on the chest or knees to get him to “Back” or move in reverse.
Thus the calf will learn the word of the command along with the
movement of the rod and will eventually follow the commands without
the need of the lead rope. One advantage of training the calves this
way is that you are quicker able to see when the calves are ready to
misbehave and can forstall disobedience before it happens.

Another way to begin the training that is used by most of the
teamsters in Nova Scotia, Canada, is by standing in front of the calf
with the calf’s halter in one hand and a rod in the other. Begin
walking saying “Giddup” and moving your rod ahead and because you
hold the calf’s lead rope, he will have to follow. Turn to the right
saying “Gee” and moving your rod to the right and the calf will have
to turn right. Turn to the left saying “Haw” and moving your rod to
the left and the calf will have to turn left. Stop and say “Whoa” and
moving your rod up and the calf will have to stop. Turn around and
face the calf, moving the rod in front of his legs and the calf will
back up. Thus, in this form of training the calf will also learn the
word of the command along with the movement of the rod. One advantage
of training the calves this way is that there are less commands being
used, as they know where they are to go by what their teamster is
doing. Another advantage is when the team is working in a narrow
place such as they have to do in the bush, then the teamster is not
finding himself pushed away from their side.

These are the basic commands. Other commands can be taught as needed,
and older animals can be taught them, but it will just take more time
and patience. To see a point form guide to training and working with
oxen, click on: Training Oxen - A Point Form Guide
Photo to the right by Brenda Kossowan: wordswork@...

Training and Working With Oxen
Training oxen is a simple and rewarding experience. Cattle are ready
learners, and do not quickly forget what they have been taught. When
their needs are met, oxen are patient, hard working draft animals,
and will not balk at toiling at your side all day long.

The equipment needed to work with oxen is basic, and easy to use. The
yoke can be inexpensively made with traditional woodworking hand
tools. For more information about making or buying a yoke, click on:
Neck Yokes, or Head Yokes. As an alternative to the yoke, a collar
and harness may be used. For more information about harness and
collar options, click on:
Harness and Collars.

Personal requirements are a willingness to spend the time needed to
teach basic commands, patience, consistency, firmness, and
responsibility in meeting the animal’s needs.

Training oxen requires taking two separate animals, (selected for
their similarities in temperament and willingness to work), which
have previously been their own masters, and making them a team, that
will work for another master. Behaving this way is contrary to
nature. These animals have already learned many things before they
began this training. It is your job to undo some of the things they
have learned, and to teach many new things. Every time they are in
the yoke they will learn something, either beneficial or
unbeneficial. And they will challenge you as their new master, as
they try to continue to meet their own needs and desires.

For more information on how to choose your calves, click on: Choosing
Your Animals

Cattle are led by rules of who is boss. You must prove yourself
worthy of being followed, of being a leader that oxen can trust, and
who will provide them with their basic needs of food, rest, water,
shelter, protection, and some social interaction. Training oxen is
more than learning certain rules and applying them. It is a
combination of what you know, achieving their acknowledgment that you
are a good leader, being able to give correct body language, and
being able to consistently give verbal and visual commands. The oxen
must be able to respect you, and to accept you as leader. To train
them through cause and affect, you need to know your animals, and to
be able to control how their environment affects them.

Oxen will learn, they either learn bad habits or good ones. Make your
team do everything you command them to. Never let them do something
different than what you have ordered. Do not let them disobey or run
away or do anything apart from what you have asked. Any time they
misbehave, continue the lesson longer, even if you have to yoke them
up again. Only allow them to stop, if they end up still willingly
following your commands. They need to learn that when they are
working, they are not in charge.

Cattle learn patterns and will soon know when you are almost finished
a task, so change the pattern of what you do each day.

To be able to train cattle, you need to show your physical dominance,
therefore it is better to start with animals young enough to enable
you to easily do this. Once the animals have been taught this, they
submit, and do not need to be constantly shown it again. This is why
youngsters, who have trained their oxen as calves, are able to
control their animals when they are much larger than themselves. Oxen
must be trained to accept all people as completely dominant, and this
dominance must be quickly established. It takes effort, planning, and
skill to convince your cattle that you are never to be challenged,
and in so doing, they will learn to respect you.

It is a vast difference in an oxen’s normal lifestyle, for them to
work for hours, under a human’s direction. But oxen are content to do
the same thing day after day as long as you meet their needs. Be
careful not to overwork a young or out of shape team. Take care not
to turn the team so sharply that their legs are rubbed raw on the
pole or chain. Make sure the equipment you use on your animals fits
them properly.

For more information on the care of your oxen’s health, click on: Ox
Health

Give your animals short simple names that don’t rhyme with each other
or with any of the commands. Use their names often. Make sure your
body language matches your commands. Also make sure that you use your
rod with self-control, but with enough force to get the action you
are commanding. Speak your command before you use your rod. Always
treat your animals with kindness and patience. Never work with your
animals if you are in a bad mood.

Take the time to thoroughly teach your animals the basic commands,
remembering that once the oxen learn something, they are slow to
forget it. Teach them in short frequent lessons, being consistent in
what you ask, and in the consequences for correct or incorrect
behavior. Give praise and pats for correct behavior.

Training Oxen - A Point Form Guide
A. Base for Training
1. Respect gained through meeting your oxen’s needs which are food,
rest, water, shelter, social contact, and safety
2. Leadership quickly and firmly established

B. Rules of Training
1. Train regularly
2. Maintain control of both your oxen and yourself
3. Be firm. Insist on obedience
4. Be patient and understanding
5. Be consistent in everything you ask

C. Training Schedule
1. Teach animals to lead
2. Begin training with the yoke (or harness)
3. Teach Whoa (Stop), Giddup (Go), and Easy (Slow down)
4. Teach Gee (Turn right), Haw (Turn left), and Back (move in
reverse)
5. Begin to pull loads
6. Teach Step In (step toward a pole/chain), and Step Out (step away
from a pole/chain)
7. Teach Head Up (lift heads when in yoke), and Come Boss (Come in
from pasture)
8. Use lead ropes as little as possible, until you can remove them
altogether
9. Work on giving animals a variety of tasks in a variety of
environments
10. End each work period when things are going well

Civil War Recipes

http://www.geocities.com/pentagon/barracks/1369/recipes.html

My personal recommendations for reenactors, clarifications and
adjustments for the 20th century cook are noted in bold italics or
[brackets]. Please note that during the 1800’s, Americans were still
using The Queen’s English, so for the sake of authenticity, though in
many instances awkward to today’s reader, I have left some spelling
and punctuation unchanged.

What Is Hardtack?

Hardtack is a cracker-like biscuit made of flour, salt and water and
was one of the most typical rations issued to soldiers by the U. S.
government because it was fairly nutritious and unlikely to spoil.
This hard bread was made in government bakeries located in cities and
shipped in barrels to the troops. Hardtack had to be tough to
withstand the trip. Many Civil War soldiers complained about this
ration noting the extreme hardness of the biscuits (sometimes
called “teeth-dullers”), which at times had to be broken with a
rifle “butt” or a “blow of the fist” to prepare for eating. Soldiers
sometimes softened the pieces by soaking them in coffee, frying them
in bacon grease, or crumbling them in soup.
Hardtack could become infested with insects in the government
storehouses or during the soldier’s travels. One disappointed soldier
claimed that “All the fresh meat we had came in the hard bread!”

Courtesy of the Office of Historic Alexandria.

With the exception of the Union Army, it would be unlikely for
everyone in the United States to adhere to only one method of
preparation, so I included several versions, including one
specifically for the South.

The basic ingredients are: flour, salt and water (although quantity
differs). General directions are also similar: Disolve salt in water
and work into flour with your hands. Dough should be firm and
pliable, but not sticky or too dry. Flatten onto a cookie sheet to
about 1/4 inch thick, and cut into squares 3 inches by 3 inches.
Pierce each square with 16 holes about ½ inch apart. Bake in oven
until edges are brown or dough is hard.

Preheat oven to 400° F
For each cup of flour add 1 tsp. of salt
Mix salt and flour with just enough water to bind.
Bake 20-25 minutes.
The longer you bake the hardtack, the more authentic it will appear.

2 cups of flour
1 cup water
1 tbl spoon of Crisco or vegetable fat (lard)
6 pinches of salt
Bake for 30 minutes at 400 degrees.
Remove from oven, cut dough into 3-inch squares, and punch four rows
of holes into the dough.
Turn dough over, return to the oven and bake another 30 minutes.

A Sailor’s Diet!
Hardtack was cooked on shore and loaded on board by the barrel. This
was the basic food of the sailor.

2 1/2 cups old-fashioned or quick oats.
3 cups unbleached flour.
1 1/2 teaspoons salt.
1 teaspoon baking soda.
In a separate container, mix:
1 1/2 cups buttermilk.
3 tablespoons honey.
1/2 cup melted bacon drippings or shortening.
Combine the two sets of ingredients.
When the dough is thoroughly mixed, roll it out on a floured board to
a thickness of about a quarter inch.
Cut out circles of dough with a large drinking glass dipped in flour
and put them on a lightly greased cookie sheet.
Bake for about 5 1/2 minutes at 450 degrees.
Let the hardtack cool on a wire rack before serving with jam or
jelly.

Courtesy of the Texas Historical Commission

Or try a Southern johnnie cake...

2 cups of cornmeal
2/3 cup of milk
2 tablespoons vegetable oil (lard)
2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon of salt
Mix ingredients into a stiff batter and form eight biscuit-
sized “dodgers”.
Bake on a lightly greased sheet at 350 degrees for twenty to twenty
five minutes or until brown.
Or spoon the batter into hot cooking oil in a frying pan over a low
flame.
Optional: spread with a little butter or molasses, and you have a
real southern treat!

Additional items that Union soldiers received were salt pork, fresh
or salted beef, coffee, sugar, salt, vinegar, dried fruit and dried
vegetables. If the meat was poorly preserved, the soldiers would
refer to it as “salt horse”. Sometimes they would receive fresh
vegetables such as carrots and potatoes.
Confederate soldiers were not as fortunate. Their rations consisted
of bacon and corn meal, tea, sugar or molasses, and fresh vegetables
when they were available.

Courtesy of the National Park Service

This photograph is the link to the 19th Century Recipe page, which
is packed with culinary delights, many suitable for Living History
events. New recipes are frequently added to this page. [James River,
Va. Sailors on deck of U.S.S. Monitor; (cookstove at left) taken July
9, 1862.]
Photograph from the LCCW collection

Memoirs of Archibald Atkinson Jr.
Read the detailed excerpts from the memoirs of Archibald Atkinson,
Jr, who served as a doctor in the Confederate Army. His
interpretation of the war from a surgeon’s point of view lends
insight to rations that were available to both Northern and Southern
troops.

Includes more home remedies and 19th century medicine and health
practices!

Home Remedies

Soup for an Invalid

Cut in small pieces one pound of beef or mutton or part of both, boil
it gently in two quarts of water; take off the scum and when reduced
to a pint, strain it. Season with a little salt and take a teacupful
at a time.

[The simplicity of this recipe makes it a nice addition to the Living
History campsite.]

Godey’s-March,1861
Drinks for the Sick

From The Young Housekeeper’s Friend, 1846
Apple Tea:
Roast sour apples and pour boiling water upon them. Drink it when
cold.

A Very Refreshing Draught in a Fever:
Put a few sprigs of sage, balm and sorrel into a jug, having first
washed and dried them. Take off the yellow part of the rind of a
small lemon; remove the white, slice the lemon and put it into the
jug with part of the peel; pour in three pints of boiling water,
sweeten it and stop it close.

[Balm has long been cultivated in gardens. The stems and leaves,
formerly used in medicine as a gentle stimulant and tonic, are still
occasionally used as such. Sorrel is a perennial herb with erect
stems about 12 in high with arrow-shaped leaves, which are cultivated
for use as a salad green and as a potherb.]
Another Drink [untitled]:
Boil an ounce and a half of tamarinds, three ounces of currants, and
two of stoned raisins, in three pints of water until near one third
is wasted; then strain it.

Another Drink [also untitled]:
Put a teacup of cranberries in a cup of water, and mash them. In the
mean time, boil two quarts of water with one large spoonful of Indian
or oatmeal, and a piece of lemon peel; add the cranberries and some
loaf sugar, but take care to leave a strong flavor of the fruit. Put
in a gill of sherry wine, or less if required, and boil it half an
hour more. Then strain it. [I think the addition of wine is the key
to this drink’s success.]

As planting season is almost upon us, many of these high antioxidant
foods can be produced right in your garden.
We’re adding at least blue berries and raspberries to the garden this
year. Blackberries grow wild all over the place where we live.

The Top 10 Antioxidant Foods
by Lisa Turner
Better Nutrition, Jan. 2002

Natural Protection

We’ve known for years that antioxidants can help prevent heart
disease and cancer, reduce blood pressure and slow the effects of
aging. These naturally occurring compounds protect the body from
harmful, excess free radicals, sweeping them up before they can cause
damage. And the best way to lay an antioxidant-rich foundation that’s
inhospitable to toxins and free radicals is through a combination of
whole foods.

BERRIES

Few fruits have quite the provocative allure, the fragile charm or
the nutrients of berries. They’re full of fiber, minerals and
vitamins, and loaded with healing antioxidants. Blueberries,
raspberries and blackberries are rich in proanthocyanidins,
antioxidants that can help prevent cancer and heart disease.
Strawberries, raspberries and blackberries contain ellagic acid, a
plant compound that combats carcinogens. Blueberries also appear to
delay the onset of age-related loss of cognitive function.

Quick Tips: Stir raspberries into vanilla yogurt, add whole
blueberries to salads, or dress up sliced strawberries with a little
honey, balsamic vinegar and black pepper.

BROCCOLI

Maybe you never listened when Mom said, “Eat your broccoli.” So
listen now. Broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables like cabbage,
cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, can help prevent cancer and ward
off heart disease. Cruciferous vegetables contain a compound called
indole-3-carbinol (I3C - a potent antioxidant that breaks down
estrogen in the body) that reduces the risk of breast cancer and
other estrogen-sensitive cancers, like cancer of the ovaries and
cervix. Other studies have shown that broccoli can help fight
cervical dysplasia, a precancerous condition. Broccoli also contains
other protective constituents like beta-carotene, which can help
prevent cancer and heart disease.

Quick Tips: Wrap cooked, chilled broccoli with roasted pepper strips,
or toss steamed broccoli with olive oil, chopped black olives and
crushed red pepper flakes.

TOMATOES

Tomatoes are fast becoming one of our favorite modern foods, and for
good reason — they can ward off certain kinds of cancer, prevent
macular degeneration and cataracts, and help maintain mental function
as we age. Tomatoes contain lycopene, a relatively rare member of the
carotenoid family, also found in pink grapefruit and twice as
powerful as beta-carotene. Studies have shown that men who eat more
tomatoes or tomato sauce have significantly lower rates of prostate
cancer. Other studies suggest lycopene can help prevent lung, colon
and breast cancers. Tomatoes also contain the antioxidant
glutathione, which helps boost immune function. Note: cooked tomatoes
are preferable, since heat allows more desirable antioxidants in
tomatoes to be made available to the body. And because lycopene is
fat-soluble, eating tomatoes with oil can improve absorption.

Quick Tips: Add minced sundried tomatoes to mashed potatoes, or toss
Roma tomatoes with chopped fresh basil and olive oil and serve over
pasta.

RED GRAPES

A little red wine can keep your heart beating longer and stronger.
Why? Mostly because of substances called resveratrol and quercetin
found in red grapes. These potent antioxidants boost heart health by
acting as free-radical scavengers, reducing platelet aggregation and
helping blood vessels remain open and flexible. Resveratrol can also
protect against cancer and reduce the risk of inflammatory diseases,
gastric ulcers, stroke and even osteoporosis.

Quick Tips: Snack on frozen red grapes for a sweet treat, or heat
organic red wine with cinnamon sticks and a few whole cloves.

GARLIC

The “stinking rose,” perhaps the world’s oldest known medicinal and
culinary herb, is packed with antioxidants that can help fend off
cancer, heart disease and the effects of aging. The sulfur compounds
that give garlic its pungent odor are thought to be responsible for
its healing benefits. Studies have shown that garlic keeps the heart
healthy by lowering cholesterol levels, reducing blood pressure,
fighting free radicals and keeping blood from clotting. Other studies
suggest that eating garlic regularly can help prevent cancer. It also
has potent anti-fungal properties and can help treat asthma and yeast
infections.

Quick Tips: Roast whole heads of garlic until soft, and spread on
warm baguette slices or puree roasted peppers with garlic for a fast
sauce.

SPINACH

Popeye may have thought eating spinach gave him strength, but it also
allowed him to hit a nutritional jackpot. Because lutein (an
antioxidant found in spinach) is the main pigment in the macula - the
region of maximum visual sensitivity - it can help protect your
vision. Studies have shown that people who eat spinach are less
likely to develop cataracts and macular degeneration, the two most
common causes of vision loss. Lutein appears to work by shielding the
retina from sun damage and fighting free radicals that can harm the
eyes. Some preliminary studies have suggested that lutein can also
help prevent heart disease.

Quick Tips: Stir chopped, fresh spinach and crushed walnuts into
steamed brown rice, or lightly wilt baby spinach leaves and toss with
olive oil.

TEA

The most frequently consumed beverage in the world may also be one of
the best ways to prevent a number of degenerative diseases. Tea has
been shown to significantly reduce the risk of cancer, heart disease,
stroke and other diseases. It was originally thought that green tea
had more antioxidants than black tea, but recent studies suggest that
they are equally beneficial. The catechins in green tea are oxidized
in the manufacturing process of black tea, forming free-radical
fighting theaflavins.

Quick Tips: Poach salmon in an infusion of green tea and ginger. Or
boil soba noodles in green tea and toss with sesame seeds and a dash
of toasted sesame oil.

CARROTS

Carrots are loaded with a potent antioxidant called beta-carotene, a
member of the healing family of carotenoids. Also found in beets,
sweet potatoes and other yellow-orange vegetables, beta-carotene
provides protection against: cancer, especially lung, bladder,
breast, esophageal and stomach cancers; heart disease, and the
progression of arthritis by as much as 70 percent. Note: Cooked
carrots have considerably higher levels of antioxidants than
uncooked, probably because heat breaks down the active compounds and
makes them more available.

Quick Tips: Puree cooked carrots with low-fat chicken broth, rosemary
and a dash of cream, or steam whole baby carrots and toss with
nutmeg, honey and a little butter.

SOY

The enduring favorite of health-foods aficionados, soy can help
prevent cancer, lower cholesterol, ward off osteoporosis and lessen
the effects of menopause. Most of the health benefits of soy have
been attributed to its content of Genistein and other isoflavones,
which resemble natural estrogens in the body. Studies have shown that
Genistein can help prevent breast, colon and prostate cancers.
Additionally, soy can reduce both overall cholesterol levels and LDL
(low-density lipoprotein or “bad”) cholesterol levels, without
affecting the levels of beneficial HDL. Soy can also prevent
osteoporosis and help alleviate the symptoms of menopause, such as
hot flashes.

Quick Tips: Add cubed tempeh to pasta sauce, spread soy butter on a
whole-wheat pita instead of peanut butter or toss soy sprouts on a
salad or in stir-fry dishes.

WHOLE GRAINS

Your morning bowl of cereal may be a more potent source of
phytochemicals than you think — as long as it’s whole-grain variety.
Vitamin E in grains is a potent antioxidant that plays a role in
preventing cancer, especially prostate cancer. Other studies have
found that it can boost immunity, slow the progression of Alzheimer’s
disease, treat and possibly prevent arthritis, prevent sunburn and
treat male infertility. Grains are also rich in phytic acid, known as
IP-6, a potent antioxidant that can help protect against breast,
colon and liver cancers.

Quick Tips: Combine cooked bulgur wheat with chopped parsley,
scallions and olive oil, or add raisins, dried apricots and minced
basil to brown rice.

TRAPS AND SNARES

http://www.survivaliq.com/survival/food-procurement_s2.htm

For an unarmed survivor or evader, or when the sound of a rifle shot
could be a problem, trapping or snaring wild game is a good
alternative. Several well-placed traps have the potential to catch
much more game than a man with a rifle is likely to shoot. To be
effective with any type of trap or snare, you must—

Be familiar with the species of animal you intend to catch.

Be capable of constructing a proper trap.

Not alarm the prey by leaving signs of your presence.
There are no catchall traps you can set for all animals. You must
determine what species are in a given area and set your traps
specifically with those animals in mind. Look for the following:

Runs and trails.

Tracks.

Droppings.

Chewed or rubbed vegetation.

Nesting or roosting sites.

Feeding and watering areas.
Position your traps and snares where there is proof that animals pass
through. You must determine if it is a “run” or a “trail.” A trail
will show signs of use by several species and will be rather
distinct. A run is usually smaller and less distinct and will only
contain signs of one species. You may construct a perfect snare, but
it will not catch anything if haphazardly placed in the woods.
Animals have bedding areas, waterholes, and feeding areas with trails
leading from one to another. You must place snares and traps around
these areas to be effective.

For an evader in a hostile environment, trap and snare concealment is
important. It is equally important, however, not to create a
disturbance that will alarm the animal and cause it to avoid the
trap. Therefore, if you must dig, remove all fresh dirt from the
area. Most animals will instinctively avoid a pitfall-type trap.
Prepare the various parts of a trap or snare away from the site,
carry them in, and set them up. Such actions make it easier to avoid
disturbing the local vegetation, thereby alerting the prey. Do not
use freshly cut, live vegetation to construct a trap or snare.
Freshly cut vegetation will “bleed” sap that has an odor the prey
will be able to smell. It is an alarm signal to the animal.

You must remove or mask the human scent on and around the trap you
set. Although birds do not have a developed sense of smell, nearly
all mammals depend on smell even more than on sight. Even the
slightest human scent on a trap will alarm the prey and cause it to
avoid the area. Actually removing the scent from a trap is difficult
but masking it is relatively easy. Use the fluid from the gall and
urine bladders of previous kills. Do not use human urine. Mud,
particularly from an area with plenty of rotting vegetation, is also
good. Use it to coat your hands when handling the trap and to coat
the trap when setting it. In nearly all parts of the world, animals
know the smell of burned vegetation and smoke. It is only when a fire
is actually burning that they become alarmed. Therefore, smoking the
trap parts is an effective means to mask your scent. If one of the
above techniques is not practical, and if time permits, allow a trap
to weather for a few days and then set it. Do not handle a trap while
it is weathering. When you position the trap, camouflage it as
naturally as possible to prevent detection by the enemy and to avoid
alarming the prey.

Traps or snares placed on a trail or run should use channelization.
To build a channel, construct a funnel-shaped barrier extending from
the sides of the trail toward the trap, with the narrowest part
nearest the trap. Channelization should be inconspicuous to avoid
alerting the prey. As the animal gets to the trap, it cannot turn
left or right and continues into the trap. Few wild animals will back
up, preferring to face the direction of travel. Channelization does
not have to be an impassable barrier. You only have to make it
inconvenient for the animal to go over or through the barrier. For
best effect, the channelization should reduce the trail’s width to
just slightly wider than the targeted animal’s body. Maintain this
constriction at least as far back from the trap as the animal’s body
length, then begin the widening toward the mouth of the funnel.

Use of Bait
Baiting a trap or snare increases your chances of catching an animal.
When catching fish, you must bait nearly all the devices. Success
with an unbaited trap depends on its placement in a good location. A
baited trap can actually draw animals to it. The bait should be
something the animal knows. This bait, however, should not be so
readily available in the immediate area that the animal can get it
close by. For example, baiting a trap with corn in the middle of a
corn field would not be likely to work. Likewise, if corn is not
grown in the region, a corn-baited trap may arouse an animal’s
curiosity and keep it alerted while it ponders the strange food.
Under such circumstances it may not go for the bait. One bait that
works well on small mammals is the peanut butter from a meal, ready-
to-eat (MRE) ration. Salt is also a good bait. When using such baits,
scatter bits of it around the trap to give the prey a chance to
sample it and develop a craving for it. The animal will then overcome
some of its caution before it gets to the trap.

If you set and bait a trap for one species but another species takes
the bait without being caught, try to determine what the animal was.
Then set a proper trap for that animal, using the same bait.

Note: Once you have successfully trapped an animal, you will not only
gain confidence in your ability, you also will have resupplied
yourself with bait for several more traps.
Trap and Snare Construction
Traps and snares crush, choke, hang, or entangle the prey. A single
trap or snare will commonly incorporate two or more of these
principles. The mechanisms that provide power to the trap are almost
always very simple. The struggling victim, the force of gravity, or a
bent sapling’s tension provides the power.

The heart of any trap or snare is the trigger. When planning a trap
or snare, ask yourself how it should affect the prey, what is the
source of power, and what will be the most efficient trigger. Your
answers will help you devise a specific trap for a specific species.
Traps are designed to catch and hold or to catch and kill. Snares are
traps that incorporate a noose to accomplish either function.

Simple Snare
A simple snare (Figure 8-5) consists of a noose placed over a trail
or den hole and attached to a firmly planted stake. If the noose is
some type of cordage placed upright on a game trail, use small twigs
or blades of grass to hold it up. Filaments from spider webs are
excellent for holding nooses open. Make sure the noose is large
enough to pass freely over the animal’s head. As the animal continues
to move, the noose tightens around its neck. The more the animal
struggles, the tighter the noose gets. This type of snare usually
does not kill the animal. If you use cordage, it may loosen enough to
slip off the animal’s neck. Wire is therefore the best choice for a
simple snare.

Drag Noose
Use a drag noose on an animal run (Figure 8-6). Place forked sticks
on either side of the run and lay a sturdy crossmember across them.
Tie the noose to the crossmember and hang it at a height above the
animal’s head. (Nooses designed to catch by the head should never be
low enough for the prey to step into with a foot.) As the noose
tightens around the animal’s neck, the animal pulls the crossmember
from the forked sticks and drags it along. The surrounding vegetation
quickly catches the crossmember and the animal becomes entangled.

Twitch-Up
A twitch-up is a supple sapling, which, when bent over and secured
with a triggering device, will provide power to a variety of snares.
Select a hardwood sapling along the trail. A twitch-up will work much
faster and with more force if you remove all the branches and
foliage.

Twitch-Up Snare
A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with a long and
short leg (Figure 8-7). Bend the twitch-up and mark the trail below
it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly into the ground at
that point. Ensure the cut on the short leg of this stick is parallel
to the ground. Tie the long leg of the remaining forked stick to a
piece of cordage secured to the twitch-up. Cut the short leg so that
it catches on the short leg of the other forked stick. Extend a noose
over the trail. Set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging
the short legs of the forked sticks. When an animal catches its head
in the noose, it pulls the forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-
up to spring up and hang the prey.

Note: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that oozes out
could glue them together.

Squirrel Pole
A squirrel pole is a long pole placed against a tree in an area
showing a lot of squirrel activity (Figure 8-8). Place several wire
nooses along the top and sides of the pole so that a squirrel trying
to go up or down the pole will have to pass through one or more of
them. Position the nooses (5 to 6 centimeters in diameter) about 2.5
centimeters off the pole. Place the top and bottom wire nooses 45
centimeters from the top and bottom of the pole to prevent the
squirrel from getting its feet on a solid surface. If this happens,
the squirrel will chew through the wire. Squirrels are naturally
curious. After an initial period of caution, they will try to go up
or down the pole and will get caught in a noose. The struggling
animal will soon fall from the pole and strangle. Other squirrels
will soon follow and, in this way, you can catch several squirrels.
You can emplace multiple poles to increase the catch.

Ojibwa Bird Pole
An Ojibwa bird pole is a snare used by native Americans for centuries
(Figure 8-9). To be effective, place it in a relatively open area
away from tall trees. For best results, pick a spot near feeding
areas, dusting areas, or watering holes. Cut a pole 1.8 to 2.1 meters
long and trim away all limbs and foliage. Do not use resinous wood
such as pine. Sharpen the upper end to a point, then drill a small
diameter hole 5 to 7.5 centimeters down from the top. Cut a small
stick 10 to 15 centimeters long and shape one end so that it will
almost fit into the hole. This is the perch. Plant the long pole in
the ground with the pointed end up. Tie a small weight, about equal
to the weight of the targeted species, to a length of cordage. Pass
the free end of the cordage through the hole, and tie a slip noose
that covers the perch. Tie a single overhand knot in the cordage and
place the perch against the hole. Allow the cordage to slip through
the hole until the overhand knot rests against the pole and the top
of the perch. The tension of the overhand knot against the pole and
perch will hold the perch in position. Spread the noose over the
perch, ensuring it covers the perch and drapes over on both sides.
Most birds prefer to rest on something above ground and will land on
the perch. As soon as the bird lands, the perch will fall, releasing
the over-hand knot and allowing the weight to drop. The noose will
tighten around the bird’s feet, capturing it. If the weight is too
heavy, it will cut the bird’s feet off, allowing it to escape.

Noosing Wand
A noose stick or “noosing wand” is useful for capturing roosting
birds or small mammals (Figure 8-10). It requires a patient operator.
This wand is more a weapon than a trap. It consists of a pole (as
long as you can effectively handle) with a slip noose of wire or
stiff cordage at the small end. To catch an animal, you slip the
noose over the neck of a roosting bird and pull it tight. You can
also place it over a den hole and hide in a nearby blind. When the
animal emerges from the den, you jerk the pole to tighten the noose
and thus capture the animal. Carry a stout club to kill the prey.

Treadle Spring Snare
Use a treadle snare against small game on a trail (Figure 8-11). Dig
a shallow hole in the trail. Then drive a forked stick (fork down)
into the ground on each side of the hole on the same side of the
trail. Select two fairly straight sticks that span the two forks.
Position these two sticks so that their ends engage the forks. Place
several sticks over the hole in the trail by positioning one end over
the lower horizontal stick and the other on the ground on the other
side of the hole. Cover the hole with enough sticks so that the prey
must step on at least one of them to set off the snare. Tie one end
of a piece of cordage to a twitch-up or to a weight suspended over a
tree limb. Bend the twitch-up or raise the suspended weight to
determine where You will tie a 5 centimeter or so long trigger. Form
a noose with the other end of the cordage. Route and spread the noose
over the top of the sticks over the hole. Place the trigger stick
against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage behind the sticks
so that the tension of the power source will hold it in place. Adjust
the bottom horizontal stick so that it will barely hold against the
trigger. A the animal places its foot on a stick across the hole, the
bottom horizontal stick moves down, releasing the trigger and
allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot. Because of the
disturbance on the trail, an animal will be wary. You must therefore
use channelization.

Figure 4 Deadfall
The figure 4 is a trigger used to drop a weight onto a prey and crush
it (Figure 8-12). The type of weight used may vary, but it should be
heavy enough to kill or incapacitate the prey immediately. Construct
the figure 4 using three notched sticks. These notches hold the
sticks together in a figure 4 pattern when under tension. Practice
making this trigger before-hand; it requires close tolerances and
precise angles in its construction.

Paiute Deadfall
The Paiute deadfall is similar to the figure 4 but uses a piece of
cordage and a catch stick (Figure 8-13). It has the advantage of
being easier to set than the figure 4. Tie one end of a piece of
cordage to the lower end of the diagonal stick. Tie the other end of
the cordage to another stick about 5 centimeters long. This 5-
centimeter stick is the catch stick. Bring the cord halfway around
the vertical stick with the catch stick at a 90-degree angle. Place
the bait stick with one end against the drop weight, or a peg driven
into the ground, and the other against the catch stick. When a prey
disturbs the bait stick, it falls free, releasing the catch stick. As
the diagonal stick flies up, the weight falls, crushing the prey.

Bow Trap
A bow trap is one of the deadliest traps. It is dangerous to man as
well as animals (Figure 8-14). To construct this trap, build a bow
and anchor it to the ground with pegs. Adjust the aiming point as you
anchor the bow. Lash a toggle stick to the trigger stick. Two upright
sticks driven into the ground hold the trigger stick in place at a
point where the toggle stick will engage the pulled bow string. Place
a catch stick between the toggle stick and a stake driven into the
ground. Tie a trip wire or cordage to the catch stick and route it
around stakes and across the game trail where you tie it off (as in
Figure 8-14). When the prey trips the trip wire, the bow looses an
arrow into it. A notch in the bow serves to help aim the arrow.

WARNING

This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and from the rear
only!

Pig Spear Shaft
To construct the pig spear shaft, select a stout pole about 2.5
meters long (Figure 8-15). At the smaller end, firmly lash several
small stakes. Lash the large end tightly to a tree along the game
trail. Tie a length of cordage to another tree across the trail. Tie
a sturdy, smooth stick to the other end of the cord. From the first
tree, tie a trip wire or cord low to the ground, stretch it across
the trail, and tie it to a catch stick. Make a slip ring from vines
or other suitable material. Encircle the trip wire and the smooth
stick with the slip ring. Emplace one end of another smooth stick
within the slip ring and its other end against the second tree. Pull
the smaller end of the spear shaft across the trail and position it
between the short cord and the smooth stick. As the animal trips the
trip wire, the catch stick pulls the slip ring off the smooth sticks,
releasing the spear shaft that springs across the trail and impales
the prey against the tree.

WARNING

This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution!

Bottle Trap
A bottle trap is a simple trap for mice and voles (Figure 8-16). Dig
a hole 30 to 45 centimeters deep that is wider at the bottom than at
the top. Make the top of the hole as small as possible. Place a piece
of bark or wood over the hole with small stones under it to hold it
up 2.5 to 5 centimeters off the ground. Mice or voles will hide under
the cover to escape danger and fall into the hole. They cannot climb
out because of the wall’s backward slope. Use caution when checking
this trap; it is an excellent hiding place for snakes.

http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Article-Snaring-For-Survival.htm

Making Cordage By Hand
by Norm Kidder

http://www.primitiveways.com/cordage.html

Cordage (rope and string) can be made from many different fibers
including (Bast) Dogbane, Milkweed, Nettles, Hemp, Flax; (Leaves)
Cattail, Yucca, Agave, Douglas Iris; (Bark) Willow, Maple, Basswood,
Cedar; (Root) Leather Root, Beach Lupine; (Whole stem) Tule, straw,
Juncus. Each material has specific requirements for extracting and
preparing the fibers, but there are only two basic ways for using the
fibers to make a cord: braiding (or plaiting) and twining. Braiding
was usually done with flat, split materials such as cattail or
flattened straw. The instructions in this article will deal only with
twining, specifically with two ply (S-twist, Z ply, also called right
handed) cordage.

After preparing a bundle of fiber half the thickness of the finished
cord, place your hands six to twelve inches apart and about one third
of the way from one end. Twisting the fibers clockwise with both
hands, wind the bundle tight (making single-ply cordage).

Bring your hands closer together and keep twisting. The kink should
rotate on its own in a counterclockwise direction (Fig. la & b).
Twist until two or three rotations occur (Fig. 2a & b). This is the
start of a two ply cord. At this time you can attach the end to
something (or someone) which can rotate (free-end) and keep twisting
with both hands turning clockwise OR you can attach the end to
something solid (fixed-end) and begin twisting and counter-rotating
(see below).

Counter-rotating, one form of finger-twisting, involves each hand
applying a clockwise (S) twist into a ply, while passing the right
ply over, and the left ply under (counter-clockwise or Z-plying). In
Figure 3a, your left hand twists ply A clockwise, while your right
hand does the same with ply B. At the same time, you pass ply B over
and behind your left thumb and lock it in place with your remaining
fingers, as in Figure 3b. You then take A in your right hand and B in
your left and repeat, over and over and over again! These two methods
are particularly handy with larger and coarser materials such as
cattail and tule ropes.

Finger-twisting finer material is usually done completely in the
hand, with the finished string being wound on a bobbin or netting
needle as you go. Your left hand acts to control tension while your
right hand does the twisting. Begin as in Figure 1, then place the Y
(the point where the two plys come together) between your left thumb
and fore finger. Take the lower of the two ply strands and twist it
tightly clockwise until it begins to kink. Lock the twist in by
closing your remaining three fingers over the strand (see Fig. 4a.).
Then, while holding the twisted ply A securely, twist ply B with your
right thumb and forefinger. As you twist, you should feel the
completed string begin to twist counter-clockwise (step Fig. 4b.).
Follow this motion with your left thumb and forefinger while
maintaining even tension and a symmetrical Y . Next move your left
thumb up to the fork in the Y as before and repeat steps 1 and 2
until you need to add more fiber.

If you began your cord off-center, then one side will run out of
fiber first. As you get to within about 3 inches of the end of this
short ply, prepare another bundle of fibers the same size as you
began with, but taper the end of the bundle for about 4 inches. Lay
this bundle parallel to the bundle being replaced, and sticking out
about an inch beyond the Y (Fig. 5). Continue twisting as before. You
should also add in if one ply becomes thinner than the other, or if
both plies become thinner than they started. In these cases add just
enough fiber to bring them back to correct size. Ideally, your cord
should stay the same size throughout, although aboriginal cordage did
vary about fifty percent in nets. Bow strings and fish lines under
heavy pull should be very even. It is also possible to add to both
sides at the same time by bending a bundle of fiber in half and
placing the Y of the bundle into the V of the Y, but it is harder to
keep from making a lump at this point. After your string is finished,
you can cut or burn (carefully) off the overlap ends to make your
string less fuzzy.

NOTE: dry surfaces tend to slip, so you should keep your hands and
the fiber damp while you are working. Squeeze out excess water though
or your string will be loose when it dries.

Finger-twisting methods are best used when a relatively small amount
of string is being made and/or has to be very tight and even, and
when very stiff or coarse materials are being used, such as cattail
or tule. When making mass quantities of cordage, it is much faster
and easier on the hands to use the leg (thigh) rolling method. The
principle is the same, S-twist, Z-ply, but the twist is applied by
rolling on the leg, rather than twisting between the thumb and
finger. You can continue to work without getting cramps in your hand
muscles, and you can (with practice) work faster (about ten feet per
hour). The critical element in making this method work is having the
right surface on which to roll. Traditionally the bare left thigh is
used. If you do not want to expose your skin, or if your legs are
hairy, you can use pants, but these should be tight around your leg,
so they won’t bunch up as you roll, and they should have a rough
enough surface to give traction. Keeping them damp is also critical.
I keep a bucket of water next to me while work. This method is
illustrated in Figure 6a-c.

Before you begin, prepare as much fiber as you will be using during
that session. Once you get into the rhythm of the work, you won’t
want to stop and clean material.

Roll both plies away from you with the palm of your right hand (pre-
roll each separately). Your left hand holds the Y and follows the
movement.

Bring the two plies together by moving the left hand forward and
back. If the two plies did not get tightly rolled the first time,
carefully pick up both plies and repeat step one first.

When the plies are tight and touching, bring the right palm back
towards you, counter-rotating the two plies into two-ply cordage.

Before repeating step one, it is necessary to untangle the loose ends
of fiber, separate into two plies, and move the left hand up to the
new Y.

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