You may not have even known the restaurant by its proper name, Kanomwan. And it's even more likely that you did not know its proprietor's real name, either-- Darawan Charoenrat. For eaters "in the know" for the last decade or more, both have simply been called Thai Nazi, or the restaurant was called Telephone Thai. Last week, Houston's infamous Thai Nazi died, and Kanomwan is, at least for now, closed. If it seems curious to mourn a man with such a nickname (a play on Seinfeld's "Soup Nazi"), you probably weren't a Kanomwan regular. Though Charoenrat was often brusque, barking,...