On Thanksgiving, Washington Post readers turned to the front page of the Style section for the annual “Native American†lecture on “Hatesgiving.†It was a food article by Maura Judkis. The online headline was “Native American chefs lament 'Columbusing'of indigenous foods.†Judkis began: Earlier this fall, Karlos Baca, an indigenous food activist known for cooking beautiful foraged meals using traditional Native American ingredients and cooking methods, was approached by a regional food magazine: Would he like to provide a recipe for their Thanksgiving issue? "Instead of getting a recipe from me, they got three pages of activism," he says. Baca,...